Is it just in my head or is the Real McCoys B3 much better made than Eastmans?

[deeds]

Is it just in my head or is the Real McCoys B3 much better made than Eastmans?

I tried out a lovely Eastman B3 month or so ago and posted about it here. Week or so ago I also tried on a new Real McCoys B3 in a shop. I can clearly remember thinking that the HH(?) on the back of the arms looked so much better and the stitching overall looked so much better. I was so surprised by the difference in workmanship and materials.

I don’t particularly want a B3 (although it is growing on me now...) but I do want an ANJ4. Until this point I was quite seriously thinking about getting an Eastman ANJ4. Suddenly I’m thinking maybe I should try to find a RMC ANJ4 (I know it would be a second hand since it’s not made by them any more).

Tell you what though: I asked how much the RMC B3 cost and was shocked that it was more than twice the price of the Eastman B3…

Until this point I assumed that the differences in quality and finishing of the other makers’ jackets would be unnoticeable . I’ve started seriously wondering if the pieces made by other makers like the other Japanese makers and/or Lost Worlds would be obvious better made in terms of material, stitching and finishing and that I should consider them instead. This RMC really opened my eyes to.

I’m not bashing Eastman at all. For years I’ve dreamed about one but seeing and trying the RMC I just tried was wild.

Is it all in my head?

 

[Marc mndt]

It depends on how you define better. Better as in 'closer to original', neater stitching, thicker leather, better hardware, curly vs straight shearling, the density of the shearling etc etc.

I asked how much the RMC B3 cost and was shocked that it was more than twice the price of the Eastman B3…

More expensive doesn't equal better quality. Price can be inflated due to middle man costs, shipping, import / customs fees, brandname premium etc.

 

[deeds]

It depends on how you define better. Better as in 'closer to original', neater stitching, thicker leather, better hardware, curly vs straight shearling, the density of the shearling etc etc.


More expensive doesn't equal better quality. Price can be inflated due to middle man costs, shipping, import / customs fees, brandname premium etc.

Closer to the original, I can’t speak to because I just don’t know these jackets well enough.

Better hardware I can’t speak to either because I don’t know enough about this either.

Neater stitching and finer finishing to the edge of the leather, yes, these are two points that I would consider when thinking of better quality than another. The RMC seemed better in this regard.

Curly vs Straight and the density: I didn’t notice an obvious difference here…

As for price, like I said, I was impressed by the quality of the jacket for the full 15 or so minutes of trying/wearing and playing with the jacket before I asked what the price was. If anything, I was a little offended by the >2X the price. I felt that was unwarranted and noted the issue of import etc to the seller.

So, to be clear, when I talk about better (quality) I’m referring to the quality of the leather, stitching and general finishing Of the piece. No reference to closeness to original.

 

[BloodEagle]

For the price I would hope that you did find the Real McCoys, in some quantifiable way which matters to you, superior to the Eastman. To put it in some kind of context - the new RMC B3 price in the UK at least is an absolutely staggering £4445, compared to the actually-still-pretty-expensive Eastman at £1349. For what its worth as far as I know Eastman do drill down on the details with their shearlnigs as far as historical accuracy goes, whereas RMC do make changes to suit a more modern fit with their repros, so if that matters to you then which would you consider better?

 

[MrProper]

Neater stitching and finer finishing to the edge of the leather

Neat seams? What does that mean? I have good seams on many jackets. Or do you associate it with many stitches per inch or sewn super close to the edge? I don't like that with leather jackets.
For my taste, leather is rather coarse and therefore I find coarse seams more suitable.
But it's a matter of taste.
But anyway, I don't think that necessarily says anything about more or less quality. At least not in terms of durability.

 

[Marc mndt]

To put it in some kind of context - the new RMC B3 price in the UK at least is an absolutely staggering £4445,

That's the inflated UK price. Actual price is ¥550k which is about £2880.

 

[BloodEagle]

That's the inflated UK price. Actual price is ¥550k which is about £2880.

View attachment 660171

Yes indeed - always worth considering that the UK retail price of RMC stuff can for some things be about a third on top again what it costs in Japan - another good example being the J-24 whch costs an amazing £2850 at UK retail, or the equivalent of £1730 if youre sensible and find a reliable proxy buyer.

 

[cbez]

I sure love buying used jackets for pennies on dollar.

 

[WolfofStateSt]

I have an RMC B3, and I love it. It's the best jacket I own, and the leather and shearling are just beautiful. I've never owned an Eastman, so I can't give a fair comparison. I have an RMC A2, which is also a great jacket and probably more practical because you can wear it in more temperatures, but the B3 is way cooler and gets more compliments.

So I'd have to vote for the RMC B3 just because...

 

[Monitor]

Is it just in my head or is the Real McCoys B3 much better made than Eastmans?

As someone who doesn't care for neither the style of the jacket or either of the brands - It is. Significantly so, at that.

I've handled several RMC B-3's & one Toys McCoy B-3 which stood out as the best of the lot and I always tell people; Get the RMC.
It's the only type of jacket where superiority of Real McCoy's version is that much more discernable than the competition (to me).

 

[deeds]

I've handled several RMC B-3's & one Toys McCoy B-3 which stood out as the best of the lot and I always tell people; Get the RMC.
It's the only type of jacket where superiority of Real McCoy's version is that much more discernable than the competition (to me).

Thank you, this is a useful and helpful in particular because you have handled the RMC vs others.

Why, may I ask, do you suggest the RMC as the one to get over the Toys if the Toys was better (or did I misunderstand)?

If I have misunderstood, can you recall what made one so much more discernibly better than the others?

 

[Bfd70]

Anecdotal

I’ve owned 2 rmc jackets. The main zipper failed on both within 6 months.
I wont buy another.

I’ve owned 3 eastman with zero problems

Chances are you like one over the other. Buy that one. You’ll second guess yourself otherwise. The variables in jacket comparison don’t line up neatly in columns. This is art not science follow your heart.

 

[Monitor]

Why, may I ask, do you suggest the RMC as the one to get over the Toys if the Toys was better (or did I misunderstand)?

The Toys was from a particular limited edition line which is long sold out. It was a part of of a Steve McQueen anniversary edition of some kind, I recall correctly, and the jacket was either entirely made in New Zealand or the sheep were from New Zealand but in any case, it was... Something else.

If I have misunderstood, can you recall what made one so much more discernibly better than the others?

The Toys, you mean? Even on its own, it just stood out. The shearling was extremely dense and thick, more than you'd imagine possible. The leather was thick with a perfect finish. All the horsehide details were legit 2.5 mm thick - The collar straps were literally belt grade with a buckle to match. I can't really put it neatly into words but it's just the kind of jacket that makes you say "Holy shit!" out loud and I have seen a lot of jackets by that point.

The other RMC's were close but by no means worse per se, just that everything about them felt... One, maybe two tiers below the aforementioned Toys. They felt more... Affordable!

And compared to the RMC, the Eastman's were exactly like that. Just one or maybe two tiers under but it wasn't like there was anything you could point at, just the overall feeling. Vibe. I'm sure you know what I mean.

Aero's, for instance, feel somewhere between the RMC and Eastman, being at the same time neither better nor worse than the two. Aero's leather & hardware is tougher than what Eastman is using but Eastman looks better. To me.

But! You also have to understand that you can't expect them all to be the same at all times with the RMC being most notorious in inconsistency. Even Eastman switched shearling around a few times. Aero, I believe, is the most reliable but I'm not 100% sure. So at that price-point, it's essential you handle any of these jackets as your experience might turn out to be opposite to mine.