I Need Help! Natural Veg Tanned Jacket

[snowbird]

I need some input from anyone who has experience with a natural veg-tanned leather jacket.

Jacket: . Natural Veg Tanned Horsehide leather. Custom Tartan liner.

I ordered this from a very reputable dealer a while back and was just told that it is done. The customer service woman, who by the way has been a pleasure to work with, wanted to send me some pictures because there was a concern about the final product and she wanted my approval prior to shipping it out. She offered me a discount to buy this one as-is. It sounds like if I don't buy this one then they may not have the ability to rebuild it in the near future due to these issues. Note: This is not a judgment on the manufacturer. I appreciate them reaching out and trying to make this right at the outset and not having me have to deal with it when it arrives. Mistakes and problems happen, owning them is the important thing.

Essentially here is the issue. She said that there have been some quality issues with their veg-tanned horsehide tannery. This has resulted in some problems with the leather being supplied. I guess they are actively trying to source from other tanneries. She didn't go into any detail about what quality issues there are but she sent me some pictures. (Attached). From what I can tell there are inconsistencies with the texture of the leather. What I am curious about is how this manifests itself over time. Will it age differently? If I sun tan it and condition it (I am planning on both) will that accentuate or diminish the differences? Has anyone ever seen a similar pattern or texture on this type of leather and how has that turned out in the final product? Any pictures of a similar textured jacket?

Any help or direction on this would be much appreciated as I need to make a decision soon.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Canuck Panda]

What size and how much the discount?

The grainy panels are ok. It will eventually get that grainy on some jackets anyways. The yoke panel might actually be cut from the edges of the hide but since that panel will lay on the top shoulder all the time it would be passable for me.

The markings under the front chest pocket would raise alarm bells for me. It may even out once darken it may not. I would really need to see it in person. But that is where the gamble is at, and hence the discount.

 

[TREEMAN]

Don’t take it !!

 

[snowbird]

Don’t take it !!

Any specific concerns?

 

[ProteinNerd]

Personally, if the manufacturer is concerned enough to offer a discount or ask for "approval" I wouldn't take it.

Good on them for being so honest and upfront but if they have concerns, especially with this type of leather, I think you'd be better off waiting until they sort out their supply.

My main concern would be the evenness (or lack of it) as it ages and darkens

 

[snowbird]

What size and how much the discount?

The grainy panels are ok. It will eventually get that grainy on some jackets anyways. The yoke panel might actually be cut from the edges of the hide but since that panel will lay on the top shoulder all the time it would be passable for me.

The markings under the front chest pocket would raise alarm bells for me. It may even out once darken it may not. I would really need to see it in person. But that is where the gamble is at, and hence the discount.

Interesting. Does the grainy texture signal a durability issue in the leather? The markings under the pocket don't bother me too much as the jacket will show markings like that as it is worn. I think my biggest concern is that the panels will be less durable or color/darken differently as it ages.

 

[Observe]

Sadly, my OCD would not permit me to enjoy this jacket, were I to receive it. My particular fixation is having relatively consistent grain in the sleeve and front panels. The weird scratches on the left front panel are cause for further investigation. The rear panels don't bother me. I'd want to know if the scratches are just surface marks from handling or if it's actual deep impressions in the leather.

I would weigh the things that stand out as a concern for you against whatever dollar amount the discount is, and see how that makes you feel. If I was on the fence about a jacket, I'm not sure a small discount would make me feel much better about it.

It's a shame, because it otherwise looks neatly constructed, and I feel a bit bad that someone spent a good chunk of time putting this jacket together for it to get cast aside before it even gets worn.

 

[TREEMAN]

Plus they give you the hard sell saying if you don’t take this one .. blah blah blah.
NG

 

[Canuck Panda]

Interesting. Does the grainy texture signal a durability issue in the leather? The markings under the pocket don't bother me too much as the jacket will show markings like that as it is worn. I think my biggest concern is that the panels will be less durable or color/darken differently as it ages.

The uneven grainy leather is an aesthetic issue but the shoulder panel should not been cut like that. There is uneven thickness going on at the top right corner, and may cause aesthetic fit issues. The rest of the grainy panels are normal to me. However, one of the major reason for buying a raw jacket is to start smooth and gain grains on your own, this one is already half way there.

The marking should be MAJOR concerns. They are different than the markings you pick up by wearing. These could be markings by chemical reaction at the tannery when they dehair the hide or other process. The tanning agents either wasn't washed completely off or during transportation between stages it picked up contaminants that cause these what I would consider just as bad as scars. They won't come out of the hide, and may age differently than the surounding leather (think black and white panda). This would be my biggest concern, especially on the front panel. The front markings is a huge gamble, that's why I asked what the discount was.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

If the manufacturer is that concerned and won't tell you what is exactly wrong, that's a massive red flag. I would not recommend taking it.

 

[TartuWolf]

Looks like you've been talking to Deborah and ordering a SB Tailgunner in natural HH.
I've talked to her about the exact same project in the future as well.
She also mentioned having a lot of issues with the tanneries that provide the natural HH to them.
Even suggested that I wait with that project until they are sure that they can get good leather.
Mentioned some recently disappointments with current available leather too (may even be referring to yours).

Regarding this specific jacket - I'd say it really depends on how much of a discount they are offering.
Also respect to them for being transparent about it and communicating with you (even if not explaining everything). I suggest talking to her more and asking their opinion on what are the most important concerns regarding this one and how would it develop with time.
Personally I would not take this one, mostly due to the shoulder/upper back panel. Not bothered by the chest markings at all.

 

[MrProper]

I would take the jacket if the discount is big enough and it fits well.
I think this jacket can look really cool when it looks really worn and used. And the advantage is that you don't even get the idea of taking care of this jacket.
And it will last a few years in any case.
So, take out a big discount and let's go.

 

[Tom71]

I don´t really understand all the critical comments.

SB did all they can to disclose and discuss the issue with you, so ultimately it´s your call now.

Based on the photos, I´d say: Do take it and enjoy. I think the jacket looks great. The uneven grain is obvious but wouldn´t deter me. For some makers (ok, for one...), mixed grain is a USP. It´s certainly not a structural defect.

Can you trell me, what size this is?

 

[torfjord]

I like the look of the uneven grain, don't think there is any structural issues with those parts. The thing that could be a potential concern are the marks by the chest pockets. They could be just scratches but they could also be discolouration that has occurred in some part of the tanning process and there is not telling how that are will develop as the leather patinas.
It's a bit of a gamble but it is a good looking jacket. You have to decide for yourself if you like the look of the jacket. If you don't like it, it's better not to take it even if you get a discount on it.

 

[mumpy]

I would negotiate on the discount and if it ended up fitting well I would keep it.

Those markings at the front can happen in no time with this type of leather.

 

[trainspotter]

Did you get the jacket or ended up not accepting?

 

[Imuricecreamman]

Bleached scrotum grain usually comes at a premium

Seriously though, I can't really see anything out of the ordinary in the pictures. If it fits right, you like it and get it at a discount, I'd say you came out good.