How to find a soft and flexible hat? (no cheapo itchy crushables)

[bluesmandan]

Here's a question: What makes a hat soft and flexible? I used to have a fedora that was very supple... the hats I have now are not nearly as flexible... my Bailey fedora is so-so, my Stetson gun club is very stiff... what's the difference? And if ordering online, how can you know that you're getting a supple hat instead of a stiff one? (And I'm not talking about the cheap crushable felt hats, which are usually very scratchy feeling in my experience).

I tend to notice that more expensive hats are thinner and more flexible, while cheaper hats tend to be thicker and stiffer, and flexibility (with price) tends to follow the 'X's (500X should be fairly flexible, 4X will not be). But the 'X' has meant different things over the years, right? and not every company means the same thing by them, and not every hat comes with an 'X', so how can you know what you're getting?

The motivation for this thread (aside from general knowledge) is this: I'm looking for something like my Stetson Gun Club, but that is not so hard and stiff. I used to have this great hat I got from my dad (seems like it might have been a Beaver Brand) that was lost (I think a roommate in college permanently 'borrowed' it.) If you know of a crushable felt hat that is NOT itchy/scratchy wool, and feels like good felt, let me know.

 

[tonyb]

If you're patient and a bit lucky you might find such a hat online. Borsalino, for one, once made at least a couple of crushable/pocketable models, way back when. They turn up every now and then. I've had a couple of 'em myself, but passed them along.

As to the X thing ...

It means whatever the entity assigning Xes to their product says it means. It is generally a quality designation -- the more Xes, the higher the quality, allegedly. Some custom hatters of my acquaintance assign X values to their hats, knowing full well that it is entirely arbitrary. But they do it because their customers expect it, especially those customers buying western hats.

Relative stiffness of a hat body has very little to do with the quality of its materials and workmanship. I make some quite stiff hats that are every bit the equal of the softer hats I produce. There's just more stiffener added to the stiffer hats is all. For styles that have sharp vertical creases, for instance, additional stiffener is needed for the felt to hold those creases. I apply it from the inside of the crown, so that it has no effect on the "hand" of the hat's exterior.

 

[Nyah]

Does the OP know that fedoras can be made out of either wool felt or furfelt? What he describes reminds me of the initial difference between the two.

 

[bluesmandan]

Does the OP know that fedoras can be made out of either wool felt or furfelt? What he describes reminds me of the initial difference between the two.

Yes, I know. My Stetson Gun Club is fur felt, but very stiff. My Bailey crushable is wool, and very supple. But fur felt is smoother and less itchy. I'd like a supple fur felt hat.

 

[Fed in a Fedora]

It starts with qualtiy fur felt to have a better possibility of finer finish and strong, yet supple feel. Age and better processes then play their parts in making a supple hat body. When labor was cheaper; hats were a higher priority and materials were more common, this was obtainable. Now, it is not so simple.

Some modern hats are made stiff because the materials and processes are cheap and a lot of stiffener - shellac is then used to hold it all together. But there are also different style expectations. Generally, modern cowboy hats are expected to be stiff and the Gun Club seems to follow that model. Part of this design is that the brim is a bit rigid in order to keep its place. Softer fedoras keep in place by the flanged brim - the curve pays a part.

You mention packables and you mention supple. Is there a need for packable or are you just wanting a good feel to the hat?

If rollable/packable, there are discussions on the FL on that topic.

If you are wanting a high quality feel to a hat that is supple without actually intending to pack it, that is a different search. In this case, quality costs and there are a few sources for vintage hats, upper tier modern hats and/or custom hatters.

I am not to that level yet. I just buy open crown Akubras and have been pleased by the quality for the price. My Bluegrass Camp Draft from Everything Australia is on my head at the moment and feels quite pleasant. Nice, but not packable.

Fed

(I was just reminded that I do have a Borsalino which is pretty supple, so I guess that I am to that level. But I still wear the Akubras most often.)

 

[Rick Blaine]

Try:

Akubra- Traveller
Borsalino - VIAGGIO or FAB
Olney

You REALLY need a vintage __________! (Borsalino, Disney, Wormser, Stetson, Marathon, Lee, Hall & Hall, Resistol, Dobbs, Biltmore, Churchill, et al.)

Getting there is half the fun! :thumb:

 

[bluesmandan]

Yeah, vintage might be the way to go. I've been searching the 'Bay for a deal on something... trying to find a broad brimmed fedora... 2 1/2 to 3 inches... there's a few. The nice ones are DANG! expensive. A couple of mint Dobbs and Borsalinos for 450 smackeroos. Ouch. I'm trying to keep it under $100.

 

[SpeedRcrX]

You can also look into Art's lightweight felt. I have one and it's beaver and can be crush without a problem.

 

[bluesmandan]

Art's lightweight felt? Do you have a link? I didn't pull up anything with a google search...

 

[Fed in a Fedora]

Art's site: http://vintagesilhouettes.com/

I have heard nothing but good things about his hats. Great value for truly custom work is the general consensus. I particularly like the Largo - just as shown on his site.

Fed

 

[RJR]

You'll be hard pressed to find anything better than a VS LW,imo.

 

[gtdean48]

Art's lightweight felt? Do you have a link? I didn't pull up anything with a google search...

Art doesn't list his ArtLite (Winchester featherweight 100% beaver body) on his fur felt page = http://www.vintagesilhouettes.com/Fur_Info.htm
You need to contact him directly to see what he has or knows is coming available.

 

[Bad Co]

Akubra Sydney or Fedora will soften up in about 3 days of wearing
Best choices for my money

 

[kaosharper1]

I am awaiting arrival today of a hat made by Art using those vintage Mallory bodies made specifically for travel. They're a little pricey. But I'm sure that Art Fawcett could easily make you a travel hat out of his regular lightweight felt. It's really a matter of having the sweatband made out of fabric rather than leather.

 

[SpeedRcrX]

I asked Art to make me travel hat and the result is this fantastic black hat.

The sweat band is leather but Art told me I wouldn't have a problem to fold the hat when necessary and no damage to the sweat band.

@kaosharper1 what color did you choose for your Mallory felt?

 

[bluesmandan]

I asked Art to make me travel hat and the result is this fantastic black hat.

The sweat band is leather but Art told me I wouldn't have a problem to fold the hat when necessary and no damage to the sweat band.

@kaosharper1 what color did you choose for your Mallory felt?

pics?

 

[kaosharper1]

I asked Art to make me travel hat and the result is this fantastic black hat.

The sweat band is leather but Art told me I wouldn't have a problem to fold the hat when necessary and no damage to the sweat band.

@kaosharper1 what color did you choose for your Mallory felt?

It's something close to the moss green. Unfortunately it did not come on Saturday, so I'll have to wait until Monday. (sigh)

 

[SpeedRcrX]

pics?

It's the two photos I posted previously the ones with my backpack

 

[bluesmandan]

It's the two photos I posted previously the ones with my backpack

Oh, okay. I like that one. What are the specs on it? (brim/crown) Is that a teardrop? (can't quite tell from the pic). It really does fold up, doesn't it!

 

[Fed in a Fedora]

Unless there is a very compelling need for packing or rolling the hat, I would get a quality leather sweat band.

Fed