Homburg Nation

[steur]

Here's an interesting find. Listed as an Echter Borsalino size 52 and bought for 1 euro. The shipping costs were twenty times that! It arrived in a box just big enough for the postage stamp and out popped this one.
Not a Borsalino, but a Hückel Standard in a size 55. An honest mistake by the seller though, because the Borsalino liner is real enough. The cardboard behind the sweatband made the hat seem smaller than it is. The liner is a later addition of course, as the hat was originally unlined. I took out the liner and found that the Hückel crown patch was gone, but the patch from the dealer was still there. Can't really make heads or tails of it though. It looks like the same design is on the sweatband as well, but even more faded. It didn't need all that much persuasion to return to somewhat normal, but more TLC is needed.
Bound brim at 5cm and crown 11cm at the center dent (more or less).
The way it was listed:

What it is at this moment:

More in part II

 

[steur]

Part II
The way the bow is done with the visible stitch at the top and no stitching at all at the bottom makes me think it is an earlier one. Late thirties maybe?
It needs more cleaning and steaming, but there's a neat hat in there somewhere (certainly for the price).

The liner I took out.

The retailer's imprint (too faded to decipher).

The Hückel Standard emblem on the sweatband is slightly more visible.

Below: as far as I can make out it could be something like:
derBIRRHENhut or derHIRRHENhut

 

[steur]

Ok. One more then. @Garrett very generously added this hat to the hat exchange for me. It has been posted here before both by him and by Justin @splintercellsz who found it I believe. But here is it anyway. Thanks Garrett!
Emerson homburg (close enough for me anyway) in brown with an overwelt brim at 5,5cm and an imposing 11,5cm crown at the center dent. It was refurbished by Bob at Black Sheep Hatworks, which is an added bonus. Love the real vintage vibe of this hat and it really needs this crease.

 

[Blare]

Part II
The way the bow is done with the visible stitch at the top and no stitching at all at the bottom makes me think it is an earlier one. Late thirties maybe?
It needs more cleaning and steaming, but there's a neat hat in there somewhere (certainly for the price).

The liner I took out.

The retailer's imprint (too faded to decipher).

The Hückel Standard emblem on the sweatband is slightly more visible.

Below: as far as I can make out it could be something like:
derBIRRHENhut or derHIRRHENhut

Nice find Stefan

 

[Rmccamey]

It certainly looks very well made. And a nutria homburg, that's something special, too!

Baronet homburg in black nutria. Size 55 with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Like I need another black homburg that isn't even my size, but it was the nutria felt that attracted me to it anyway. First time I've seen a black nutria homburg. And it doesn't disappoint; great hand to the felt. Actually Italian made and judging by liner, size tag and label I would guess it was made by Cervo.

 

[steur]

Nice find Stefan

It certainly looks very well made. And a nutria homburg, that's something special, too!

Thanks, gentlemen. These are no ordinary hats, that's for sure.

 

[Kuro]

Part II
The way the bow is done with the visible stitch at the top and no stitching at all at the bottom makes me think it is an earlier one. Late thirties maybe?
It needs more cleaning and steaming, but there's a neat hat in there somewhere (certainly for the price).

The liner I took out.

The retailer's imprint (too faded to decipher).

The Hückel Standard emblem on the sweatband is slightly more visible.

Below: as far as I can make out it could be something like:
derBIRRHENhut or derHIRRHENhut

Maybe you can get a charcoal rubbing of the retailer's imprint?

Night and day difference between the unpacking and now!

 

[steur]

Maybe you can get a charcoal rubbing of the retailer's imprint?

Night and day difference between the unpacking and now!

Thanks, James. It did clean up well. Can't go wrong for the price; the spare Borsalino liner is worth that alone.
I could try a charcoal rubbing, but the sweatband is quite textured, so I'm not expecting a clear impression. Most likely it says the same as the crown patch: der MarkenHut.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Today Sunday the weather and mood were suitable for shooting some new hats.
These are the latest arrivals before the European closure for Covid 19. Both come from France and arrived two months and half ago.

The first is a Flechet "Diplomatique" or homburg. Size 55cm.

I bought it without knowing anything else that was "special" for the lining and the brand, never seen in the Flechet production.

I have many and nobody has these "signs", but above all for the color of the felt.

You can see it in reflected light being a mixture of brown / blue with a dark indigo ribbon.

The shapes are classic with 6 cm brim. and the crown at 12 cm.

It has no defect, except the small "butterfly" to indicate the back of the hat is missing.

The felt is very soft and very easy to handle.
Un classique français intemporel!

 

[Just Daniel]

Super hat! Really wonderful.

Today Sunday the weather and mood were suitable for shooting some new hats.
These are the latest arrivals before the European closure for Covid 19. Both come from France and arrived two months and half ago.

The first is a Flechet "Diplomatique" or homburg. Size 55cm.

I bought it without knowing anything else that was "special" for the lining and the brand, never seen in the Flechet production.

I have many and nobody has these "signs", but above all for the color of the felt.

You can see it in reflected light being a mixture of brown / blue with a dark indigo ribbon.

The shapes are classic with 6 cm brim. and the crown at 12 cm.

It has no defect, except the small "butterfly" to indicate the back of the hat is missing.

The felt is very soft and very easy to handle.
Un classique français intemporel!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Super hat! Really wonderful.

Thanks Daniel, it is a "different" way to combine colors. The homburg shape and proportions are a French classic

 

[steur]

Today Sunday the weather and mood were suitable for shooting some new hats.
These are the latest arrivals before the European closure for Covid 19. Both come from France and arrived two months and half ago.

The first is a Flechet "Diplomatique" or homburg. Size 55cm.

I bought it without knowing anything else that was "special" for the lining and the brand, never seen in the Flechet production.

I have many and nobody has these "signs", but above all for the color of the felt.

You can see it in reflected light being a mixture of brown / blue with a dark indigo ribbon.

The shapes are classic with 6 cm brim. and the crown at 12 cm.

It has no defect, except the small "butterfly" to indicate the back of the hat is missing.

The felt is very soft and very easy to handle.
Un classique français intemporel!

Cool find, Daniele. Very different and very beautiful. Wonderful colours.

 

[mayserwegener]

I haven't been keeping up here!

Stefan, A series of fantastic additions! They are all beauties!

Daniele, Flechet "Diplomatique" was worth the wait. A real beauty!

 

[steur]

I haven't been keeping up here!

Stefan, A series of fantastic additions! They are all beauties!

Daniele, Flechet "Diplomatique" was worth the wait. A real beauty!

Thank you, Steve.

 

[NewJack]

Thanks to Daniele for making this beautiful piece available. I didn't care for gray Homburgs unless the shade was just right. This one fits the bill.

Upon arrival from Italy in a large (thankfully) box that was crushed...
Before


After....

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Upon arrival from Italy in a large (thankfully) box that was crushed...
Before

Sometimes I complain about the Italian Post, but not even the American Post Office jokes with rough treatments
I'm glad you like it and it's back as new, because it is, despite its many years.

 

[steur]

Thanks to Daniele for making this beautiful piece available. I didn't care for gray Homburgs unless the shade was just right. This one fits the bill.

Upon arrival from Italy in a large (thankfully) box that was crushed...
Before


After....

Outstanding hat. Spectacular!

 

[mayserwegener]

This is from Österreichische Hut Zeitung (Austrian Hat News) December 10, 1937, Page 10. It's very interesting that the Austrian Hat industry had a propaganda campaign to bring back the Homburg Hat. This is the first time I have encountered the term "Homburg" being used by the Austrian or German Hat Industries. For some reason I never looked close at these December 1937 editions. Possible the Austrian Hat Industry became more fashion oriented (to help increase sales) and that could be the reason they dropped "macher" from the newspaper name (not sure when this occurred in the 1930s).

"Present and Future of Men's Hat Propaganda.

A new Men's Hat.

A peaceful revolution was taking place before our eyes: The "Homburg" has started to clean up the long-standing fashion of the Snap Brim felt - it dominates the city scape this winter on the heads of the men. All other hat shapes had to give way to the Homburg, only the Stiff Bowler Hat could hold its own --- for certain occasions - alongside the winner. It was "discovered" about 50 years ago, then returned at frequent intervals to reappear for the first time THIS YEAR year in the post-war period since 1918. The cradle of its last renaissance is in Vienna, which the Homburg is now sent all over the world.

Its colors are brown, gray, dark blue, and - for the evening - black.

O. H. S.

 

[mayserwegener]

This is from Österreichische Hut Zeitung (Austrian Hat News) December 31, 1937, Pages 1,2. This editorial is from Anton Pichler Hutfabrik/Hat Company, Graz, Austria. The editorial discusses the Viennese "Homburghut / Homburg Hat propaganda campaign of 1937.

PROPAGANDA FOR THE PROPAGANDA.

By Ing. Anton Pichler (Anton Pichler Company, Graz).

For New Year's, every newspaper wished its readers all the best. l do not want the readers of the "Hut Zeitung / Hat News" to have a better wish than to take these lines very seriously, in the interest of everyone in the hat industry.

The "Homburg Propaganda 1937" died away with a good tone (the harmonic of industry, trade and commerce) - long live the "? Propaganda 1938"!

The question mark is there in two ways:

1. Much cooperation of the three mentioned factors will bring about the propaganda in 1938 and,
2. If it comes about, which one: will the propaganda committee give us?

l think that the whole industry was very satisfied with the way Homburg propaganda was carried out, that thanks to the committee that put so much effort into it, at least in this form, that it was supported to the best of our ability in any future propaganda by not excluding yourself from the contribution payment and everyone pushing the propagated hat right from the start without waiting for the hat to be "requested". This is the only way to expect full success, just as we can only experience a material upturn in the industry through constant propaganda. However, unlike the committee, I am of the opinion that for the beginning, especially for financial reasons, only a one-time propaganda would be advisable in the year.

In connection with the Homburg propaganda, I would like to mention that several Viennese retailers told me that this season, which was under the sign of Homburg ", the public had deliberately punched in, was less secular and less selective, so with a smaller warehouse and less loss of time same and even larger sales were achieved.

Incidentally, I was also a witness to what is probably a not uncommon occurrence in a Viennese hat maker's shop: a customer appears and requests a Homburg hat; after a while he tries and explains that Homburg is not to be seen (which was certainly just a matter of habit and imagination). After doing a bit of back and forth, the customer finally chooses a natural cut hat and obtains the following: "I came here only because of the" Homburg Hat ", but if the Homburg doesn't suit me but I still buy a new hat ". This proves that propaganda has aroused people's interest in all hats.

Even in Graz, which was outside the propaganda, the Homburg hat quickly became popular. All the leading retail stores had the Homburg poster** on display and the demand for this hat was surprisingly high in the autumn business. It can clearly be seen from this that Viennese propaganda is also having a positive effect on the province.

I heard about the not uninteresting suggestion to use propaganda in summer with a strong straw hat. I think this suggestion is daring, but maybe it would be good that it would be very important that men's hats were worn again all year round. As a result, the hat could only be won by the public. What you have more respect for, you add more value and ultimately spend more money on it.

In any case, I think it is important that only hat propaganda is made. The propagated hat must also have the correct name. "Homburg" was good and pragmatic - the audience inevitably had to introduce something.
Names such as: Naturschnitt Hut/Natural Cut Hat were bad, Rastlhut/ Rastl Hat etc. In my opinion, names such as B. Schnapper, Melone (Stiff Felt) etc.

Short and sweet the name must impress with a fixed term in the mind and hypnotize the audience.

So we are all clear about the importance of continuing collective advertising. Their establishment depends on the goodwill of the involved journey.

I express my heartfelt hope that, in this regard, the interested associations may shake hands over all difficulties, as the prosperity of an industry is largely due to the understanding bridging of the professional groups, which are usually only apparent in any case.

** Homburg Hut/Homburg Hat, Die Neue Form/The New Form, Der Wiener Hutmacher/ The Vienna Hat Maker Cardboard Display + Dermotta Wien Homburg from my collection.

 

[NewJack]

I have developed a love for vintage Homburgs. This one (as with the others I've procured over the past two years) does not disappoint. It's a Knox (one of my favorite vintage styles) 'Excellent' in midnight blue. No steam to shape. Very comfortable fit. Heaven...