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Homburg Nation

Purplesage

One Too Many
Messages
1,995
Location
Boulder, CO
Blue Cromwell Homburg

I've been meaning to add this to this thread for a while. I don't know much about Cromwell but maybe someone on the lounge has a Cromwell hat. I believe this is from the 20s but I'm not sure. It has very soft and pliable felt and the brim isn't stiff. The hat has a 2" brim and a 5 3/4" open crown which wrapped in a 2" grosgrain ribbon. I prefer the pre-40s soft brim Homburgs much more than the stiff ones. For some reason they feel more comfortable to me and fit me better as well.

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Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
1940s perhaps, or 1950s. I've had two homburgs with this style of brim edge binding - both were manufactured in the mid-1950s. The lace underneath the sweatband seam stitching is also a style of a certain maker... but I can't find the photos and can't remember who it was.
 

Purplesage

One Too Many
Messages
1,995
Location
Boulder, CO
There is no union label behind the sweatband and no signs there ever was on so I think it predated the introduction of the union label. The Cromwell for instance has a union label.
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
There is no union label behind the sweatband and no signs there ever was on so I think it predated the introduction of the union label. The Cromwell for instance has a union label.

???

The United Hatters of North America goes back to 1886. Not all hats were manufactured in union shops.

Here is a post from the Side By Side thread showing photos of two homburgs with a similar edge banding.
 
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Purplesage

One Too Many
Messages
1,995
Location
Boulder, CO
Alan here are some more detailed photos of the sweatband and stitching of the Cromwell. I doubt this hat is from the 40s or 50s and still think it is from the 30s or older. The brim edging is similar to a Cavanagh Homburg and is just 3/16" of the top curl of the brim. The Frank Katz "Lenox" model as shown in the American Hatter has a similar brim edging although it is a bit wider.

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Purplesage

One Too Many
Messages
1,995
Location
Boulder, CO
I'd still be real surprised if this isn't older than the 40s. I'd like to see another mid 40s era hat with similar features. I've owned several 40s era Homburgs but non like this. I wish I could find some information on Cromwell hats.
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
Though I don't see evidence to support such an early manufacture date, it is a very nicely made homburg. In my experience, Homburgs from the 1920s - 1930s show a more curved brim flange. Homburgs remained a popular dress hat in the 1940s - classic construction details, perhaps with a flatter brim.

Some of the elements in this hat are reminiscent of details in Disney/Lee hats from the 1940s/50s... perhaps a private label production?

1940s Disney Gadabout with captured cord in rear sweat seam.

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note stamped imprint

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1950s Disney Forty.

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Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
Good side note, Steve. The edge binding is reminiscent of these hats (Cavanagh and Stetson):

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but the brim flange looks more like this private label example (chapeau richelieu):

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Private label homburgs for dress seemed to be a popular staple in better mens stores (I have owned examples from Jack Henry, Brooks Brothers) in the 1940s and 1950s.
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Alan, Thanks for the great examples! The Cavanagh brim flange / curl is what I expect from a Homburg.

Ole, Interesting regarding the turban-roll (I am not aware of the term). Would be interested in seeing other examples.
 

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