Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

[jlee562]

I don't mind that people are straying away from traditional designs and grosgrain bows (more ribbon for the rest of us). I wouldn't personally wear a good chunk of these modern styled hats, but no grudge against them. No item of clothing stays the same in perpetuity. Bob at BSHW has a packet of fabrics from me that are theoretically going to show up on a hat one day (lol).

I also don't have anything against a distressed hat. I have a distressed guitar that's "missing paint" from half of the back of the thing (Joe Strummer Telecaster). But the thing I don't get about the actual distressing being done by some out there is the waxy look. That's not what a well worn hat looks like. I don't even know what It's supposed to be emulating. Oh, and the random stitches. What is that supposed to be? I actually want to experiment with Japanese sashiko stitching patterns on a hat, but like, that's a design. Not a stitch that isn't holding anything together.

In the event that anyone reading this thread might be after that look and might not want to speak up after we all just trashed that style, the best advice I would give is to head over to Club Obi Wan and check out some of the things the Indy hat folks are doing. There are some tricks from the film trade (e.g. fuller's earth) and just some things other folks have thought up along the way to get realistic "sweat stains" and the like. Generally speaking, I think Indy hats are the best distressed out there, because to the obsessive fan (of which I am one!), it has to look like the hat and bad fake sweat stains would ruin that. Some western hat makers are better than others at the whole distressed look as well.

 

[CRH]

I don't mind that people are straying away from traditional designs and grosgrain bows (more ribbon for the rest of us). I wouldn't personally wear a good chunk of these modern styled hats, but no grudge against them. No item of clothing stays the same in perpetuity. Bob at BSHW has a packet of fabrics from me that are theoretically going to show up on a hat one day (lol).

I also don't have anything against a distressed hat. I have a distressed guitar that's "missing paint" from half of the back of the thing (Joe Strummer Telecaster). But the thing I don't get about the actual distressing being done by some out there is the waxy look. That's not what a well worn hat looks like. I don't even know what It's supposed to be emulating. Oh, and the random stitches. What is that supposed to be? I actually want to experiment with Japanese sashiko stitching patterns on a hat, but like, that's a design. Not a stitch that isn't holding anything together.

In the event that anyone reading this thread might be after that look and might not want to speak up after we all just trashed that style, the best advice I would give is to head over to Club Obi Wan and check out some of the things the Indy hat folks are doing. There are some tricks from the film trade (e.g. fuller's earth) and just some things other folks have thought up along the way to get realistic "sweat stains" and the like. Generally speaking, I think Indy hats are the best distressed out there, because to the obsessive fan (of which I am one!), it has to look like the hat and bad fake sweat stains would ruin that. Some westwen hat makers are better than others at the whole distressed look as well.

Lol. Yeah, you're spot on about the Indy hats. Funny thing. Those kind of random X stitches you see on some of these distressed hats - that's my favorite part. I wonder how much extra @tjones is gonna charge to completely "x stitch" in a ribbon? Lol

 

[T Jones]

Lol. Yeah, you're spot on about the Indy hats. Funny thing. Those kind of random X stitches you see on some of these distressed hats - that's my favorite part. I wonder how much extra @tjones is gonna charge to completely "x stitch" in a ribbon? Lol

Hmmm.... you're giving me some ideas.

Something like this would be interesting too

 

[belfastboy]

Hmmm.... you're giving me some ideas.

Something like this would be interesting too

My favourite (I really do like it and am not mocking!!!) is the work that the pyrographers do on hats. Rands Hats out of Billings has an artist that does designs on hat burning them in with what looks like a good old wood burning tool. The work they do is fantastic. If/when I am ever in Billings again I just might pop in and get a hat with a wolf head burnt on the side.

 

[Darrell2688]

Hmmm.... you're giving me some ideas.

Something like this would be interesting too

Are you going to make any changes or put that hat out for sale? It looks like the bow ends are a little tattered?

 

[Darrell2688]

I did a little weathering on the Indiana Jones hat, it is just lightly weathered. Should I redo the work and give the hat some more or heavy weathering

 

[T Jones]

Are you going to make any changes or put that hat out for sale? It looks like the bow ends are a little tattered?

That's not my hat, unfortunately. I wish it was. That's one I found online.
It's for sale, though, $1200.

Here's some info on the hat.

 

[T Jones]

My favourite (I really do like it and am not mocking!!!) is the work that the pyrographers do on hats. Rands Hats out of Billings has an artist that does designs on hat burning them in with what looks like a good old wood burning tool. The work they do is fantastic. If/when I am ever in Billings again I just might pop in and get a hat with a wolf head burnt on the side.

That is a pretty neat Western. I really like it too.

 

[BobHufford]

That's not my hat, unfortunately. I wish it was. That's one I found online.
It's for sale, though, $1200.

Here's some info on the hat.

I’ve seen maybe a dozen of these (and straw versions) and they bring much less than that “ask”. I guess this could depend on the provenance and the original owner. There appear to be two different graphics used. The ones I’ve seen (that showed the interiors) were marked as wool.

 

[T Jones]

I’ve seen maybe a dozen of these (and straw versions) and they bring much less than that “ask”. I guess this could depend on the provenance and the original owner. There appear to be two different graphics used. The ones I’ve seen (that showed the interiors) were marked as wool.

View attachment 612432

Those are all nice looking hats. I don't know about the $1200. asking price but I'd still like to have one.

 

[Darrell2688]

I added a little more weathering to the Indy fedora today, this time I covered the hat as much as I could with the Fuller's Earth, I used the gray color Fuller's Earth, maybe I should add some white or brown to the hat?

 

[CRH]

I added a little more weathering to the Indy fedora today, this time I covered the hat as much as I could with the Fuller's Earth, I used the gray color Fuller's Earth, maybe I should add some white or brown to the hat?

Maybe smear a little peanut butter around the ribbon and let your dog lick it off to blend things in?

 

[townaj]

I don't mind that people are straying away from traditional designs and grosgrain bows (more ribbon for the rest of us). I wouldn't personally wear a good chunk of these modern styled hats, but no grudge against them. No item of clothing stays the same in perpetuity. Bob at BSHW has a packet of fabrics from me that are theoretically going to show up on a hat one day (lol).

I also don't have anything against a distressed hat. I have a distressed guitar that's "missing paint" from half of the back of the thing (Joe Strummer Telecaster). But the thing I don't get about the actual distressing being done by some out there is the waxy look. That's not what a well worn hat looks like. I don't even know what It's supposed to be emulating. Oh, and the random stitches. What is that supposed to be? I actually want to experiment with Japanese sashiko stitching patterns on a hat, but like, that's a design. Not a stitch that isn't holding anything together.

In the event that anyone reading this thread might be after that look and might not want to speak up after we all just trashed that style, the best advice I would give is to head over to Club Obi Wan and check out some of the things the Indy hat folks are doing. There are some tricks from the film trade (e.g. fuller's earth) and just some things other folks have thought up along the way to get realistic "sweat stains" and the like. Generally speaking, I think Indy hats are the best distressed out there, because to the obsessive fan (of which I am one!), it has to look like the hat and bad fake sweat stains would ruin that. Some western hat makers are better than others at the whole distressed look as well.

I agree with most of these sentiments, except for the waxy look you mentioned. I see it all the time and its a bear to get rid of. Most of the customers that come into my shop for cleaning and reshaping have at least one hat with that on it. Usually its under the brim where their ears touch the hat and at the back of the head. It also happens quite often on the brim if they're touching it a lot.

However, most of my clients are what I would consider "hard use" wearers. Horse trainers, ranchers, cowboys, etc. Folks that sweat in and really wear their hat on a daily basis.

I still haven't found a great way to get it out yet either. So far a light working with a brass or plastic bristle brush and some very light pouncing will usually get 70% of it out

 

[belfastboy]

I agree with most of these sentiments, except for the waxy look you mentioned. I see it all the time and its a bear to get rid of. Most of the customers that come into my shop for cleaning and reshaping have at least one hat with that on it. Usually its under the brim where their ears touch the hat and at the back of the head. It also happens quite often on the brim if they're touching it a lot.

However, most of my clients are what I would consider "hard use" wearers. Horse trainers, ranchers, cowboys, etc. Folks that sweat in and really wear their hat on a daily basis.

I still haven't found a great way to get it out yet either. So far a light working with a brass or plastic bristle brush and some very light pouncing will usually get 70% of it out

Do you do the full naptha bath cleaning?

 

[jlee562]

I agree with most of these sentiments, except for the waxy look you mentioned. I see it all the time and its a bear to get rid of. Most of the customers that come into my shop for cleaning and reshaping have at least one hat with that on it. Usually its under the brim where their ears touch the hat and at the back of the head. It also happens quite often on the brim if they're touching it a lot.

However, most of my clients are what I would consider "hard use" wearers. Horse trainers, ranchers, cowboys, etc. Folks that sweat in and really wear their hat on a daily basis.

I still haven't found a great way to get it out yet either. So far a light working with a brass or plastic bristle brush and some very light pouncing will usually get 70% of it out

No, I'm talking about stuff like this:

He doesn't appear to be actively making hats after some kerfluffle, so I don't feel bad naming this as a Gunner Foxx hat. I get the spots from the top of my ears on some hats, and this is not that.

 

[Darrell2688]

No, I'm talking about stuff like this:
View attachment 612801

He doesn't appear to be actively making hats after some kerfluffle, so I don't feel bad naming this as a Gunner Foxx hat. I get the spots from the top of my ears on some hats, and this is not that.

I don't know about this hat style, it looks like it has been bashed with a lot of tight pinches then a torch was used on the flat brim and the tight pinch areas, then given the Fuller's Earth treatment.

 

[CRH]

No, I'm talking about stuff like this:
View attachment 612801

He doesn't appear to be actively making hats after some kerfluffle, so I don't feel bad naming this as a Gunner Foxx hat. I get the spots from the top of my ears on some hats, and this is not that.

That hat needs a sharp stone tipped arrow piercing through the crown.

 

[Darrell2688]

Well I tried the weathering using the Fullers Earth and I have to tell you, that I won't be weathering any more hats using that method. I don't know about the peanut butter idea, maybe using some fractionated coconut oil on the brim and around the top and bottom edges of the hat band would work better??

 

[RickP]

I need an opinion regarding a ribbon binding test... My first test at sewing on a brim binding with my cylinder arm machine.... obviously the color of the ribbon is not whay Id use, and the type of ribbon isnt right, but its what I had on hand to test...... Im thinking the thread size would be fine once ironed out, but might try with a slightly smaller thread ( I do mainly leatherwork so most things I do are bigger and a bit less refined) Any Ideas? Be kind... this was my first test attempt lol

 

[Darrell2688]

I need an opinion regarding a ribbon binding test... My first test at sewing on a brim binding with my cylinder arm machine.... obviously the color of the ribbon is not whay Id use, and the type of ribbon isnt right, but its what I had on hand to test...... Im thinking the thread size would be fine once ironed out, but might try with a slightly smaller thread ( I do mainly leatherwork so most things I do are bigger and a bit less refined) Any Ideas? Be kind... this was my first test attempt lol View attachment 614144

I think that you will be happier if you use a polyester thread for hat work. The stitching looks ok, better than I can do, but I don't do brim binding, all of my sewing is by hand. Did you swirl the ribbon that you used for your brim binding? The swirling is the trick and a challenge. I am sure that someone with brim binding will be able to help more, but I think that the ribbon is folded and ironed in half, then the ribbon is swirled to fit the brim, tack stitched in place then sewn into place with a sewing machine, Sounds like a challenge that I may have to tackle by hand.