Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

[humanshoes]

I'm getting ready to sew in some sweatbands and I realized non of my sweatbands came with the reed ferrules. Any ideas where to get some? Is there something that will work that can be found at a hardware store?

This is all they are. 1/16" x 1/2" spring pins.
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-9...7YPXJZJ6Z9A&psc=1&refRID=T18WNYB1X7YPXJZJ6Z9A
They can also be had in stainless steel.

 

[Frunobulax]

This is all they are. 1/16" x 1/2" spring pins.
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-9...7YPXJZJ6Z9A&psc=1&refRID=T18WNYB1X7YPXJZJ6Z9A
They can also be had in stainless steel.

Cheaper than my suggestion!

 

[belfastboy]

This is for Scooterz. Pics of comparison: Agnoulita Carmel middle, two Win chester beaver Pecan, Winchester beaver Camel right side, the two Pecan are left and on top of the Carmel. The left Pecan is from a decade ago, the top is recent. Two very different colours....it is not just the light. The Agnoulita is a softer beige/brown, the Camel has more yellow in it. ....both good colours.

 

[Scooterz]

This is for Scooterz. Pics of comparison: Agnoulita Carmel middle, two Win chester beaver Pecan, Winchester beaver Camel right side, the two Pecan are left and on top of the Carmel. The left Pecan is from a decade ago, the top is recent. Two very different colours....it is not just the light. The Agnoulita is a softer beige/brown, the Camel has more yellow in it. ....both good colours. View attachment 313413

Thanks. Very interesting the difference in the pecan felts over time. I like the carmel. Did you make the camel hat with the curl?

 

[belfastboy]

Thanks. Very interesting the difference in the pecan felts over time. I like the carmel. Did you make the camel hat with the curl?

No, that is an older one that Mike @ NW Hats made for me. The Carmel coloured felt will be a clone of it for a client except going with a dark olive ribbon.

 

[belfastboy]

Here is the block that to m y eye is close to that Stetson block.

 

[Scooterz]

Here is the block that to m y eye is close to that Stetson block. View attachment 316418 View attachment 316419

THANKS. What is the name/number of that block?

 

[belfastboy]

THANKS. What is the name/number of that block?

It is a standard offering from Hat Blocks Poland (Etsy) model #G0363

 

[belfastboy]

Here is a picture of my first attempt at venting. I have an order for venting but wanted to try it out on a hat of my own first. If the client likes the pattern it is full speed ahead. He wants venting on the sides as well.

 

[humanshoes]

Here is a picture of my first attempt at venting. I have an order for venting but wanted to try it out on a hat of my own first. If the client likes the pattern it is full speed ahead. He wants venting on the sides as well. View attachment 321134

Nice work there Robert.

 

[belfastboy]

Nice work there Robert.

The question looms large.....can I repeat it?

 

[humanshoes]

The question looms large.....can I repeat it?

Quality, uniform, repetitive results will definitely make you a fine craftsman Robert. Add to that an eye towards individual expression and personal creativity and you will become an artist.

 

[belfastboy]

Quality, uniform, repetitive results will definitely make you a fine craftsman Robert. Add to that an eye towards individual expression and personal creativity and you will become an artist.

Thank you!

 

[Melkat88]

If you are working in metric sizes then I block 1 full centimetre larger. My blocks are all in full centimetre increments so for my size 59 head I block on a size 60cm block.

Hi, great question and answers. I'm trying to perfect my fitting-skills too.
With this sample, how long would you cut the sweatband then?
And which angle do you cut it?
Greetz to y'all!!

 

[belfastboy]

Hi, great question and answers. I'm trying to perfect my fitting-skills too.
With this sample, how long would you cut the sweatband then?
And which angle do you cut it?
Greetz to y'all!!

I am a size 59cm....so block on a 60cm block. I cut my sweats to 59cm at the reed then 'drum' them by cutting back at an angle of about 5 degrees each side. I have a set of band blocks in centimetres and use these as sizing checks for the sweats. I tape the ends together, check the fit on the band block before stitching the ends together.

 

[Melkat88]

I am a size 59cm....so block on a 60cm block. I cut my sweats to 59cm at the reed then 'drum' them by cutting back at an angle of about 5 degrees each side. I have a set of band blocks in centimetres and use these as sizing checks for the sweats. I tape the ends together, check the fit on the band block before stitching the ends together.

Perfect! I think i need to start collecting band blocks...thats the best way for me I think. It always not easy with oval heads or extremly round...fitting is an art itself, I've got that feeling.
I have now a loooot of half sizes 56,5 cm and so on...how do you handle those.

Thanks for the angle!!!! I was searching for this for months. <3 <3 <3

 

[belfastboy]

Perfect! I think i need to start collecting band blocks...thats the best way for me I think. It always not easy with oval heads or extremly round...fitting is an art itself, I've got that feeling.
I have now a loooot of half sizes 56,5 cm and so on...how do you handle those.

Thanks for the angle!!!! I was searching for this for months. <3 <3 <3

I have learnt thru trial and error that getting the felt blocked to the right size makes everything downstream of that flow so much smoother. I have a few blocks in half sizes but not the entire range. If I add a layer of duct tape (thicker Gorilla tape works well) to the block it adds a 1/2cm. It wqorks well unless the felt is very thin then there is a risk of the line showing. I use a layer of painter's tape first as that facilitates the removal of the duct tape. I then add a layer closer to the top where the block begins to taper.....the taper makes it impossible to apply the duct tape flat so I only tape about half way up until the taper begins then use a top layer of the painter's tape to lessen the ridge created by the duct tape. Then the properly sized leather sweat should just drop into the blocked felt with a perfect fit. If it doesn't it tends to cause a ton of problems as I attempt to sew the sweat in place. Get the fit right and it should just flow. I cut my own band blocks out of 2x8" planks....using my blocks as the footprint, cut by scroll saw then a bench edge sander to finish to size. Costs about a dollar for the wood and then time.

 

[jlee562]

The nice thing about having a smaller head size is that I can eek out a 6" crown and 3" brim from this dress weight FEPSA beaver in moonshine.


This is my new Randal Alan #52 block. Good profile on this one, compares favorably to the vintage block I have.

 

[mayserwegener]

Austrian Master Hat Maker Examination Regulations, Version as of June 30, 1997

https://www.ris.bka.gv.at/GeltendeF...Gesetzesnummer=10006799&FassungVom=1997-06-30

 

[belfastboy]

I thought I should post this here as well. This my 'new iron'...picked up on Ebay ....listed as a door stop. Shipping cost me more than the item itself but then it weighs 20lbs. I heat it on the hot plate for 15-20 minutes and it is my low cost version of a brim press.