Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

[Gobi]

I worked the felt a little more today, I used one cord with a tight square knot and then worked it down, then put on another cord with a slip knot to help hold everything in place once I worked it to the full 6". Now the brim looks silly and short but I'm thinking it'll become more full once it's properly flanged and the actual brim break is established.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

@belfastboy you need one of these...and I’m first in queue for a hat!

 

[belfastboy]

@belfastboy you need one of these...and I’m first in queue for a hat!

That is a Milan being made is it not? I thought Rick was working on mastering that craft as well?

 

[humanshoes]

That is a Milan being made is it not? I thought Rick was working on mastering that craft as well?

Hah! I'll settle for reasonably proficient.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Hah! I'll settle for reasonably proficient.

Rick, I thought you gave up on Milans? I know sadly your apprentice didn’t work out.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

That is a Milan being made is it not? I thought Rick was working on mastering that craft as well?

It looks quite simple to me. I’m sure you can become a master in a couple hours.

 

[humanshoes]

It looks quite simple to me. I’m sure you can become a master in a couple hours.

If one can sew, it is pretty simple. Getting it to actually look like a hat is the hard part. I haven't given up, I just put them on the back burner for a bit. I'm itching to make some H&H hats (half and half, dualist type). In fact, I just made a side cutting tool to separate the felt body crown from the brim. It's untested and may or may not work.

 

[Cinzia]

Hi!!!

I hope someone can help me: I'm desperate

I have a question about leather sweatband and sizing.
At first I must say I'm self-taught, I read tons of stuff online, a couple of books,nothing more.
I couldn't found some serious millinery course, especially about male millinery.
So forgive me if my question could be stupid.


...Ok, it's obvious that hat size changes (get smaller) after had sewed leather sweatband..
But I' don't know how to fix this problem.

Should I block one (or more than one) size bigger?
Or should I stretch felt hat before sewing sweatband? if yes, how much?

Sorry again, but I don't know where else to ask

 

[jlee562]

Hi!!!

I hope someone can help me: I'm desperate

I have a question about leather sweatband and sizing.
At first I must say I'm self-taught, I read tons of stuff online, a couple of books,nothing more.
I couldn't found some serious millinery course, especially about male millinery.
So forgive me if my question could be stupid.


...Ok, it's obvious that hat size changes (get smaller) after had sewed leather sweatband..
But I' don't know how to fix this problem.

Should I block one (or more than one) size bigger?
Or should I stretch felt hat before sewing sweatband? if yes, how much?

Sorry again, but I don't know where else to ask

The hat block needs to be about 1/4" more in circumference than whatever you need the finished hat size to be. When the sweatband is installed, it should be the correct size.

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

Hi!!!

I hope someone can help me: I'm desperate

I have a question about leather sweatband and sizing.
At first I must say I'm self-taught, I read tons of stuff online, a couple of books,nothing more.
I couldn't found some serious millinery course, especially about male millinery.
So forgive me if my question could be stupid.


...Ok, it's obvious that hat size changes (get smaller) after had sewed leather sweatband..
But I' don't know how to fix this problem.

Should I block one (or more than one) size bigger?
Or should I stretch felt hat before sewing sweatband? if yes, how much?

Sorry again, but I don't know where else to ask

@jlee562 has given you the correct answser here!

 

[belfastboy]

@jlee562 has given you the correct answser here!

If you are working in metric sizes then I block 1 full centimetre larger. My blocks are all in full centimetre increments so for my size 59 head I block on a size 60cm block.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

If one can sew, it is pretty simple. Getting it to actually look like a hat is the hard part. I haven't given up, I just put them on the back burner for a bit. I'm itching to make some H&H hats (half and half, dualist type). In fact, I just made a side cutting tool to separate the felt body crown from the brim. It's untested and may or may not work.
View attachment 307470

Very cool! I’m sure there are several of us who would be interested in either a Milan or a half-and-half.

 

[Cinzia]

If you are working in metric sizes then I block 1 full centimetre larger. My blocks are all in full centimetre increments so for my size 59 head I block on a size 60cm block.

Yeah, I'm working in metric sizes


thanks everyone for the help, you're great!

 

[belfastboy]

Very cool! I’m sure there are several of us who would be interested in either a Milan or a half-and-half.

Yes, I regret backing off commissioning a dualist from Art. It is the one hole in my collection that needs to be filled....eventually.

 

[belfastboy]

I was wasting time this morning and had a look (again) at the Leondrexler.com site. Found an interesting photo essay he put together showing him making a hat. Not as good as a video but a fun watch. I found it interesting that there is a distinct absence of equipment in his atelier. Other than a sewing machine for the sweats it is all done by hand. Go to Leondrexler.com click on the "Portfolio" tab from the upper drop down menu. Click on the "Luxemburger" model and in the text there is a link to..."photo essay". I found it interesting.

Steven Temkin is noted for his attention to detail. The two hats I have from his hand sit at the top of my customs in terms of quality.

 

[Gobi]

I'm getting ready to sew in some sweatbands and I realized non of my sweatbands came with the reed ferrules. Any ideas where to get some? Is there something that will work that can be found at a hardware store?

 

[jlee562]

I'm getting ready to sew in some sweatbands and I realized non of my sweatbands came with the reed ferrules. Any ideas where to get some? Is there something that will work that can be found at a hardware store?

https://www.hatsupply.com/ferrules/

I got mine from Purebeaver. Just spitballing, but heat shrink wire tubing might do the trick for a hardware store fix.

 

[Bamaboots]

I'm getting ready to sew in some sweatbands and I realized non of my sweatbands came with the reed ferrules. Any ideas where to get some? Is there something that will work that can be found at a hardware store?

Wire connectors. The type that are crimped.

 

[belfastboy]

I'm getting ready to sew in some sweatbands and I realized non of my sweatbands came with the reed ferrules. Any ideas where to get some? Is there something that will work that can be found at a hardware store?

In a pinch I don't use one. When you cut the leather move the plastic reed out of the way and leave it long. after you cut the leather to the correct length leave about 3/4" of the reed on each end and stuff them into the sweat. Then drop a couple of stitches in the sweat just under the reed. With that much overlap the plastic reed ain't going anywhere. If you still want one or two PM me your address and I will pop them in the mail. Will take about two weeks to get to you.

 

[Frunobulax]

I'm getting ready to sew in some sweatbands and I realized non of my sweatbands came with the reed ferrules. Any ideas where to get some? Is there something that will work that can be found at a hardware store?

https://www.hatsupply.com/ferrules/