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German & Austrian Hutmachers

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,841
Location
Northern California
A friend recently asked me to keep an eye out for a nice velour for her to wear. This "Franker Wien" came up on ebay cheap so I grabbed it, not only to do my friend a favor but also just so I could check out a Fraenkel.
I I know this isn't the usual type of hat we tend to get excited about here at the FL, but for the sake of documentation, here it is.
It was pretty bent up when it arrived. It looked like it had spent a lot of time smashed lengthwise in a box or something. It took a bit of work to straighten it out. The sweatband was also quite dry, but responded well to a lot of Lexol. The thin, soft liner tip protector was ripped, so I pulled it out for a better pic of the liner tip crest.

20220322_124612.jpg
20220322_120958.jpg 20220322_124236.jpg
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The discoloration on the sweatband stamp is just the lighting. Some pics in sunlight.

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20220322_123827.jpg 20220322_123724.jpg

The crown is about 4 1/2" and the brim 1 3/4". It is no lightweight at 147g. The velour is shorn very short but very thick and soft. My guess on the date is late 60's. Although made to be a man's, hat I think this will look much better on a woman. Hope she likes it! :)
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,875
Location
Denmark
A friend recently asked me to keep an eye out for a nice velour for her to wear. This "Franker Wien" came up on ebay cheap so I grabbed it, not only to do my friend a favor but also just so I could check out a Fraenkel.
I I know this isn't the usual type of hat we tend to get excited about here at the FL, but for the sake of documentation, here it is.
It was pretty bent up when it arrived. It looked like it had spent a lot of time smashed lengthwise in a box or something. It took a bit of work to straighten it out. The sweatband was also quite dry, but responded well to a lot of Lexol. The thin, soft liner tip protector was ripped, so I pulled it out for a better pic of the liner tip crest.

View attachment 412329
View attachment 412330 View attachment 412331
View attachment 412332 View attachment 412333

The discoloration on the sweatband stamp is just the lighting. Some pics in sunlight.

View attachment 412334 View attachment 412335
View attachment 412336 View attachment 412337

The crown is about 4 1/2" and the brim 1 3/4". It is no lightweight at 147g. The velour is shorn very short but very thick and soft. My guess on the date is late 60's. Although made to be a man's, hat I think this will look much better on a woman. Hope she likes it! :)
Nice find, John. I'm sure your friend will appreciate it and look good in it.

Trachtens are not to be sniffed at.
 
Messages
18,476
Location
Nederland
Nice find, John. I'm sure your friend will appreciate it and look good in it.

Trachtens are not to be sniffed at.
Thanks Steve!
I agree about not sniffing trachtens. You think you're strong enough that you can do just one, but then before you know it you're out on the webs at all hours searching for Crystal velours.
Have to disagree here: I like to take a sniff at every hat I find! How else can I satisfy my cappellolfactophilia?:D
 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
A friend recently asked me to keep an eye out for a nice velour for her to wear. This "Franker Wien" came up on ebay cheap so I grabbed it, not only to do my friend a favor but also just so I could check out a Fraenkel.
I I know this isn't the usual type of hat we tend to get excited about here at the FL, but for the sake of documentation, here it is.
It was pretty bent up when it arrived. It looked like it had spent a lot of time smashed lengthwise in a box or something. It took a bit of work to straighten it out. The sweatband was also quite dry, but responded well to a lot of Lexol. The thin, soft liner tip protector was ripped, so I pulled it out for a better pic of the liner tip crest.

View attachment 412329
View attachment 412330 View attachment 412331
View attachment 412332 View attachment 412333

The discoloration on the sweatband stamp is just the lighting. Some pics in sunlight.

View attachment 412334 View attachment 412335
View attachment 412336 View attachment 412337

The crown is about 4 1/2" and the brim 1 3/4". It is no lightweight at 147g. The velour is shorn very short but very thick and soft. My guess on the date is late 60's. Although made to be a man's, hat I think this will look much better on a woman. Hope she likes it! :)
John, Great find! I have a good amount of info on Ebreichsdorfer Filzhutfabrik - S. & J. Fraenkel Wien.

 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
Pretty exciting find for me - sourced locally in New Zealand, a P.C Habig sold in the Polish market. Tagged as a 56 but fits loose so perfect for my 57.5 head!

My feeling is towards 30s/40s. Unfortunately can't make out the stamp on the sweat. View attachment 412944 View attachment 412945 View attachment 412946 View attachment 412947 View attachment 412948 View attachment 412949 View attachment 412950
Wayne, Really fantastic find! Very rare to find a 1930s or older P. & C. Habig Wien Velour. My guess is the 05 could be 1935. I base this on some other 1930s P. & C. Habig Wien Hats that don't have the complete year but it's only a guess. Also Warsaw was severally damaged in WWII and communist post WWII.
 
Last edited:
Messages
18,476
Location
Nederland
Pretty exciting find for me - sourced locally in New Zealand, a P.C Habig sold in the Polish market. Tagged as a 56 but fits loose so perfect for my 57.5 head!

My feeling is towards 30s/40s. Unfortunately can't make out the stamp on the sweat. View attachment 412944 View attachment 412945 View attachment 412946 View attachment 412947 View attachment 412948 View attachment 412949 View attachment 412950
That's a great find, Wayne. The numbers had me thinking it would be 1944: 11344 could be 11th march 1944 maybe?
 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
That's a great find, Wayne. The numbers had me thinking it would be 1944: 11344 could be 11th march 1944 maybe?
Stefan, There most likely wasn't production / shipments at that time. Also Warsaw was severally damaged. I have some ideas regarding the P. & C. Habig Wien labels that don't have a production year. I mentioned something about them but I need to go back see what I posted and follow up.
 

the_imperialist

One of the Regulars
Messages
220
Location
New Zealand
Thanks gents - reaffirming to see both strands of thought which went through my head. The 11 March 1944 certainly was something I considered, but I haven't found much evidence one way or the other. From a more contextual perspective, Steve's thesis around the geopolitical situation was pushing me a bit earlier - hence my splitting the difference.

Look forward to any further detail on Habig labels you may dig up Steve - I've certainly reviewed your website for clues upon recieving this.
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
Thanks gents - reaffirming to see both strands of thought which went through my head. The 11 March 1944 certainly was something I considered, but I haven't found much evidence one way or the other. From a more contextual perspective, Steve's thesis around the geopolitical situation was pushing me a bit earlier - hence my splitting the difference.

Look forward to any further detail on Habig labels you may dig up Steve - I've certaining reviewed your website for clues upon recieving this.
Wayne,

I haven't been able to find any information on the Seller. The Street name appears to have not have survived WWII. I will continue to check.

I have this P. & C. Habig Wien historical info.

"At the beginning of World War II, the company production was reduced to a minimum due to the scarcity of raw materials and the lack of workers.

After the end of World War II P. and C. Habig were among the first to start manufacturing hats made from old stock, selling them in exchange for ration cards and clothing cards. The main business activity back then, which was an important factor in keeping the company afloat, was the mending of old hats."

I actually have a date stamped P. & C. Habig Wien Soft Felt with a 11/29/40 Date Stamp that has /40 on the paper label.

3434747114_78b46b3984_b.jpg


3433939137_5ae6bf7bf2_b.jpg


I will put together a report on WWII Era and earlier Paper Labels. Luckily there are some date stamps.
 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
Ludwig Skrivanek Graz, Hutfabrikation, measures 58.5 cm, possibly 1930s. The Black Fur Felt has a nice Smooth Finish. It has a lower profile which is pleasing. Appears that the Sweatband was stitched back in at a later time. I have one other Stiff Felt from Ludwig Skrivanek Graz, Hutfabrikation. I wasn't able to find any information on Ludwig Skrivanek Graz, Hutfabrikation production capabilities. I tend to think they sourced the entire Stiff Felt. I was told by the Seller that this Stiff Felt belonged to her great uncle who was the owner of the first bandage company in Germany, F. & C. Achenbach Frankfurt am Main (founded 1882) but the company didn't survive WWII.

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Natural Light

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Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,875
Location
Denmark
Ludwig Skrivanek Graz, Hutfabrikation, measures 58.5 cm, possibly 1930s. The Black Fur Felt has a nice Smooth Finish. It has a lower profile which is pleasing. Appears that the Sweatband was stitched back in at a later time. I have one other Stiff Felt from Ludwig Skrivanek Graz, Hutfabrikation. I wasn't able to find any information on Ludwig Skrivanek Graz, Hutfabrikation production capabilities. I tend to think they sourced the entire Stiff Felt. I was told by the Seller that this Stiff Felt belonged to her great uncle who was the owner of the first bandage company in Germany, F. & C. Achenbach Frankfurt am Main (founded 1882) but the company didn't survive WWII.

51970002199_debe246ef7_h.jpg


51968704257_515a0e20e9_h.jpg


51968749987_bf84211753_h.jpg


51969757308_a3f1c73bb4_h.jpg


51969985049_2ca7562051_h.jpg


51969845168_d83c7797ad_h.jpg


Natural Light

51968788072_c4bb1a1d2a_h.jpg


51969792061_b90b32e6e3_h.jpg
Wonderful find, Steve. Great looking liner and interesting sweatband. Usually see white leather sweats on formal top hats.

Looks excellent on you.
 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland

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