German & Austrian Hutmachers

[mayserwegener]

Again: a real beauty. Love it.

Stefan, Thank you!

 

[mayserwegener]

A wonderful hat of an extremely rare brand, Steve: congratulations! Really fantastic!
I would have guessed it even older from the gut, as some components like the sweat with the lettering remind me strongly of pre-war/war hats. Anyway, really a great hat!

Matt, Thanks! Yes it has some older looking components. It might be a modified older hat. The ribbon / bow is definitely later. Another mystery!

 

[mayserwegener]

I'm not quite sure, Steve, but I may have to disappoint you: I'm afraid the box, while made and printed in an old style, is a bit younger than you thought (and so did I). The four-digit postal code was apparently introduced in Austria in the 1960s, so at least the address label to Mr. Krammer in Marbach / Danube would have to be younger.

Postal codes in Austria - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Nevertheless: Habig's hatbox is fantastic and extremely rare - I have only seen a similar one once - for an exorbitant price: So congratulations on this great piece!

Matt, Great detective work! The address label with the post code has the same staining as box so not later.

 

[Steve1857]

I've posted this one in a couple of other threads, but believe it deserves a place on this one, too.

C. G. Wilke Electron Bowler, ca. 20s/30s.
Apart from the size it's very similar to one Manfred posted a few years back.

Steve @mayserwegener has some great photos and interesting information about Wilke on his website.

It was originally sold in a hat and fur makers shop in Denmark's third largest town, Odense. Home of Hans Christian Andersen.

 

[steur]

I've posted this one in a couple of other threads, but believe it deserves a place on this one, too.

C. G. Wilke Electron Bowler, ca. 20s/30s.
Apart from the size it's very similar to one Manfred posted a few years back.

Steve @mayserwegener has some great photos and interesting information about Wilke on his website.

It was originally sold in a hat and fur makers shop in Denmark's third largest town, Odense. Home of Hans Christian Andersen.

View attachment 402781 View attachment 402782 View attachment 402783 View attachment 402784 View attachment 402785

Looks like a very well made bowler, Steve. If I had to guess I'd say a woolfelt. More important though: does it fit you?

 

[Steve1857]

Looks like a very well made bowler, Steve. If I had to guess I'd say a woolfelt. More important though: does it fit you?

Thanks Stefan. I'm not sure if it is wool. More a mix if there is any wool in it. I won't be able to check it again before the weekend, I'm in Copenhagen until then.

Steve would probably be able to answer how much wool if any.

And ja, it fits, kind of

 

[mayserwegener]

I've posted this one in a couple of other threads, but believe it deserves a place on this one, too.

C. G. Wilke Electron Bowler, ca. 20s/30s.
Apart from the size it's very similar to one Manfred posted a few years back.

Steve @mayserwegener has some great photos and interesting information about Wilke on his website.

It was originally sold in a hat and fur makers shop in Denmark's third largest town, Odense. Home of Hans Christian Andersen.

View attachment 402781 View attachment 402782 View attachment 402783 View attachment 402784 View attachment 402785

Steve, Great find! I really like the model name "Electron" probably because of my engineering background. I can detect C. G. Wilke Guben Stiff Felt just from the Bow design. As we know the number "7" is 57 cm. It took me a while to realize that they dropped the first number. I can't remember when I finally realized that (a while ago).

By the way I missed the great looking C.G.W. Mark. Not sure if I have seen that (at least by itself) before on one of their hats.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks Stefan. I'm not sure if it is wool. More a mix if there is any wool in it. I won't be able to check it again before the weekend, I'm in Copenhagen until then.

Steve would probably be able to answer how much wool if any.

And ja, it fits, kind of

Steve, Stefan, Sometimes C. G. Wilke Guben mentions Haar but not always. Here is are a couple examples.

On Liner but not on Paper Label.

On Paper Label but not on Liner

C. G. Wilke Guben made both Wool and Haar / Fur Felt Stiff Felts but I am not sure if I have any Wool examples in my collection. I will take a look. Making a quick scan of my C. G. Wilke Webpage I couldn't find a definite Wool example.

Based on the photos it's possible it could be Wool but I would have to have it in hand. I do see some linting but that could be misleading.

 

[Steve1857]

Steve, Great find! I really like the model name "Electron" probably because of my engineering background. I can detect C. G. Wilke Guben Stiff Felt just from the Bow design. As we know the number "7" is 57 cm. It took me a while to realize that they dropped the first number. I can't remember when I finally realized that (a while ago).

By the way I missed the great looking C.G.W. Mark. Not sure if I have seen that (at least by itself) before on one of their hats.

Thanks, Steve.

I thought the C.G.W. mark was interesting, too. I checked all the Wilkes I could find on the FL and on your site, but didn't find any with just that logo.

I thought it interesting too that it has both 57 and 7 on the tag on the sweatband. I'd read your posts about Wilke dropping the first digit.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks, Steve.

I thought the C.G.W. mark was interesting, too. I checked all the Wilkes I could find on the FL and on your site, but didn't find any with just that logo.

I thought it interesting too that it has both 57 and 7 on the tag on the sweatband. I'd read your posts about Wilke dropping the first digit.

Steve, I might have encountered the mark in a print advertisement but I don't have any record of it online. I think I made the discovery of the single number on the paper label prior to an exterior size tag but I can't remember the details.

 

[mayserwegener]

Pre 1940 dating information based on A. Breiter München locations on A. Breiter München liner logo.

A. Breiter München Weinerstr. 6 location opened Approx. 1925, a previous location at Bayerstr. 53a closed Approx. 1924. Based on a A. Breiter München advertisement in the "Official guide through the collections with 128 illustrations and 7 plans By Deutsches Museum (Germany), Benno Laskow, Gustav Hofmann, Joh. Bernhard Barkemeyer · 1925".

Zweibrückenstr. 5-7, Schellingstr. 29 locations opened Approx. 1930. Based on a A. Breiter München advertisement in "Oberammergau and Its Passion Play, 1930 - Page 16".

 

[Steve1857]

The latest on the C. G. Wilke recent arrival Bowler. Pretty sure now that it is a wool felt or at least a mix. Has that slightly "rough" feel compared to a fur felt.

11cm crown height
4.5cm brim to the curl
Ubiquitous, but very delicately crafted frayed ribbon edge.
Upturned brim curve as opposed to the more flat type.

 

[steur]

The latest on the C. G. Wilke recent arrival Bowler. Pretty sure now that it is a wool felt or at least a mix. Has that slightly "rough" feel compared to a fur felt.

11cm crown height
4.5cm brim to the curl
Ubiquitous, but very delicately crafted frayed ribbon edge.
Upturned brim curve as opposed to the more flat type.


View attachment 403872

Looks good on you, Steve. I like the ones with a bit of curve to the brim.

 

[Steve1857]

Looks good on you, Steve. I like the ones with a bit of curve to the brim.

Thanks Stefan, me too.

 

[mayserwegener]

The latest on the C. G. Wilke recent arrival Bowler. Pretty sure now that it is a wool felt or at least a mix. Has that slightly "rough" feel compared to a fur felt.

11cm crown height
4.5cm brim to the curl
Ubiquitous, but very delicately crafted frayed ribbon edge.
Upturned brim curve as opposed to the more flat type.


View attachment 403872

Steve, The C. G. Wilke Guben "Electron" looks great on you! "Electron" is my favorite model name. Fantastic form!

 

[mayserwegener]

Echter Borsalino "Sandurbar", Point 6 1/2, Open Crown 16 cm 6 1/4 inches, Brim 7 cm 2 3/4 inches, possibly late 1920s early 1930s. The "Ossido" color Felt is of medium weight, has a very soft hand and easily hand creases. There was a Wind Cord at one time and the Crown Tip Patch is missing but there are some glue remnants. I searched "Sandurbar" and it appears to be a port in the Western India State of Goa on the Arabian Sea. I think the name is out dated because there were only a few mentions and they were from the early 1900s.

Can see faint remnants of the Crown Tip Patch.

The Paper Label is Type 1 but small in size 5 cm X 1 cm.

Open Crown

 

[mayserwegener]

Drei - Spitz Marke, Gustav Sellckau Hamburg / J. Hückel´s Söhne "Foulard", FP 6 3/4, Date Stamped 09/16/1931. This Stiff Felt was made by J. Hückel´s Söhne (JSH) for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg (GSH). I have not encountered a "Foulard" JHS Stiff Felt before so it's unique. It's Date Stamped (09/16/31) which is rare for JHS (probably stamped by GSH) and the Paper Label Type is very similar to the JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2 (which are all similar). The Felt has a very nice finish and overall condition is excellent. I have not encountered this type of Sweatband before and it is marked "J / Special" so most likely custom for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg.

Similar to JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2.

"J / Special" Sweatband

Date Stamp 16. Sept. 1931.

Possibly in Zoll or Inches.

 

[Steve1857]

Drei - Spitz Marke, Gustav Sellckau Hamburg / J. Hückel´s Söhne "Foulard", FP 6 3/4, Date Stamped 09/16/1931. This Stiff Felt was made by J. Hückel´s Söhne (JSH) for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg (GSH). I have not encountered a "Foulard" JHS Stiff Felt before so it's unique. It's Date Stamped (09/16/31) which is rare for JHS (probably stamped by GSH) and the Paper Label Type is very similar to the JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2 (which are all similar). The Felt has a very nice finish and overall condition is excellent. I have not encountered this type of Sweatband before and it is marked "J / Special" so most likely custom for Gustav Sellckau Hamburg.

Similar to JHS Stiff Felt Paper Label Types 1a, 1b and 2.

"J / Special" Sweatband

Date Stamp 16. Sept. 1931.

Possibly in Zoll or Inches.

An excellent find, Steve. Love it when there's a date stamp.

 

[mayserwegener]

An excellent find, Steve. Love it when there's a date stamp.

Steve, Thank you! The Date Stamp is great because it shows that the Type 1a, 1b and 2 Paper Labels are in this general time period. Possibly going back to the mid to later 1920s.

 

[mayserwegener]

Mayser "Grosser Preis" / M. Mertés Hutfabrik, Jnh. Max Hecht Nürnberg 8 , measures 58.5 cm, possibly late 1920s early 1930s (this based on a February 3, 1932 Newspaper Sweatband Spacer). This one is difficult to date because of the non matching Liner and Sweatband plus no Paper Label. I tend to think it was made by Mayser Ulm based on the construction, components and Felt are of very high quality. I have collected some information but have to do more research. It's rare to find a Mélange Stiff Felt. I believe this is Fur Felt because of the very soft hand but it might have some Wool in the mix. The Mélange is mostly different shades of Gray maybe a tinge of Red other unknown Colors. The Finish is some what roughly clipped so Flamand Velour like. This is one of my better recent finds. As I mentioned it's difficult / rare to find this type of Stiff Felt.