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German & Austrian Hutmachers

Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
Karl, thanks. You're right: they are fine hats, just not as refined as some of the higher end hats. Considering they were half the price of a Borsalino back in the day I think it's safe to say they were popular hats.

Steve, they were on my "to do" list. :) The comparison to Wegener is one I made for myself too. Maybe they were the maker? I do have another hat of the same maker that's branded "Manhattan". I'll post that one next.
Stefan, I don't think they were made by Wegener. The paper labels and construction don't match up. The 3 that have the same paper label format were probably made by the same company but not sure about your Homburg and my Windsor. I have searched the Windsor trademark and haven't come up with anything. I have some trade publications from the 1950s that I still need to look through. I think it might be a good idea to search the Manhattan trademark.
 
Messages
18,496
Location
Nederland
Stefan, I don't think they were made by Wegener. The paper labels and construction don't match up. The 3 that have the same paper label format were probably made by the same company but not sure about your Homburg and my Windsor. I have searched the Windsor trademark and haven't come up with anything. I have some trade publications from the 1950s that I still need to look through. I think it might be a good idea to search the Manhattan trademark.
It leaves us a bit stuck for the moment. Wegener as the maker was a bit of a stretch, I admit. Their hats seem to run large on me for the most part and the Windsors seem more true to size. And it could very well be that the trademark was used by different makers over time. Another puzzle to solve.
 
Messages
18,496
Location
Nederland
While on the subject of puzzles. Here's another one I that has me puzzled. I have two hats that look almost the same in form and finishing. Different brands and different labels. Here's the first one. Meister Filz, size 57 in brown. Bound brim at 6,5cm and crown at 11cm at the pinch. It used to have a yellow onionskin covering of the crown patch, but that is no longer there. Great pliable and thin felt (better than the other one).

meister filz_1.jpg
meister filz_2.jpg
meister filz_7.jpg
meister filz_3.jpg
meister filz_4.jpg
meister filz_5.jpg
meister filz_6.jpg
 
Messages
18,496
Location
Nederland
And here's the other one. Garant size 57 in grey. Also bound brim at 6,5cm and crown at 11cm at the pinch. This has a date stamp on the backside of the sweatband which I make out to be 7-11-1953. No signs of it ever having an onionsking covering nof the crown patch. Wonderful felt, but it creases differently than the Meister Filz (more smooth or less edgy).

garant_03.jpg
garant_1.jpg
garant_7.jpg
garant_2.jpg
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garant_3.jpg
garant_4.jpg
garant_09.jpg
garant_10.jpg
 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
It leaves us a bit stuck for the moment. Wegener as the maker was a bit of a stretch, I admit. Their hats seem to run large on me for the most part and the Windsors seem more true to size. And it could very well be that the trademark was used by different makers over time. Another puzzle to solve.
My guess is the Windsor and Manhattan Trademarks were owned by a Distributor like Friedrich W. Schneider.

Friedrich W. Schneider, Trademarks, 1951

36549497625_0572bc546d_o.jpg


The distributor could source hats from different hat companies. The problem is defunct companies (I have lists of German Hat Distributors / Wholesalers from this time period) are not present on the DPMAregister Trademark search. Friedrich W. Schneider (Stetson Europe) are still in business so some of their Trademarks from 1930s are still listed.

https://register.dpma.de/DPMAregister/marke/einsteiger (Search "Friedrich W. Schneider" under "Applicant/Proprietor:".)

36154914860_b395b15966_b.jpg
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
While on the subject of puzzles. Here's another one I that has me puzzled. I have two hats that look almost the same in form and finishing. Different brands and different labels. Here's the first one. Meister Filz, size 57 in brown. Bound brim at 6,5cm and crown at 11cm at the pinch. It used to have a yellow onionskin covering of the crown patch, but that is no longer there. Great pliable and thin felt (better than the other one).

View attachment 82071 View attachment 82072 View attachment 82073 View attachment 82074 View attachment 82075 View attachment 82076 View attachment 82077
Stefan, Looks great! Again no mark and I can't put anything together from the paper label format.
 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
And here's the other one. Garant size 57 in grey. Also bound brim at 6,5cm and crown at 11cm at the pinch. This has a date stamp on the backside of the sweatband which I make out to be 7-11-1953. No signs of it ever having an onionsking covering nof the crown patch. Wonderful felt, but it creases differently than the Meister Filz (more smooth or less edgy).

View attachment 82078 View attachment 82079 View attachment 82080 View attachment 82081 View attachment 82082 View attachment 82083 View attachment 82084 View attachment 82085 View attachment 82086
Stefan, Super! This one was made by Mayser Ulm for Hut Seidl München. Hut Seidl München was directly linked to Mayser Ulm.

"With the participation of Anton Seidl, the owner of the J. A. Seidl hat factory in Munich, the company is transformed into a GmbH (private limited company) in 1914. The partners are Carl Mayser and Anton Seidl, who takes over sole ownership of the Mayser hat factory four years later (1918).

In 1924, Anton Seidl introduces production of ladies' hats and is thus able to double production. The name Mayser, which stands for high-quality hats, is registered at the patent office in Berlin.

In 1929, the competitor in the Allgäu region is bought out and integrated into the Mayser company.

In 1940, Curt M. Zechbauer, the son-in-law of Anton Seidl, takes over management of the company and transforms it into a general partnership."

Here is a Mayser - Hut Seidl München. You have one too.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/3-mayser-hutfabrik/page-2#entry345

fe4402132e65aaed0330a74bf827743f.jpg
 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
Hch. Klipper Offenbach a. M. "Extra Quality" early 1900s. I posted this old German Stiff Felt a few months ago. I took a real liking to it but the ribbon was damaged so I decided to buy some Mokuba (Japan) Silk ribbon which turned out to be a good match. I contacted Bob at Black Sheep Hat Works (BSHW) and he graciously accepted to install the new ribbon / bow. Unfortunately when the Stiff Felt arrived at BSHW the box had been crushed and the Stiff Felt had major crown dents. Bob did a masterful job of fixing the dents, cleaning up the felt and installing the new ribbon / bow. The bow design matches the original so of the time period. A big Thank You to Bob!

35732504034_433706faa3_b.jpg


36399182902_d3da36d42e_b.jpg


36399363452_b6e788e994_b.jpg


36429414341_2ce49435bd_b.jpg


This is the original damaged ribbon / bow that Bob replaced.

34828942066_aa573e2f00_b.jpg


34868566515_becba61ee4_b.jpg


Shipping damage and Bob's repair of the crown dents.

35734017354_5e5851662f_h.jpg


Bob had to remove the liner and discovered some writing on the top and sides of the liner (also on the sweatband).

36522184516_1a5f5c02a9_b.jpg


36568862825_9ac2f188cb_b.jpg


36522190396_e728f1e373_b.jpg


36522187676_2c5509f79b_b.jpg


I decided to investigate and I received the following information from Florian Hardwig of TypeDraws.com History of Typography forum. Florian, Thank you for this great information!

>I am a collector of German and Austrian vintage hats. I have an old Melone/Bowler hat and the following writing was found on the back of the liner.
I don’t see how the script could help with the dating. The first image includes a line saying “R. 1857”, but that doesn’t tell us much.
The sign on the inside is more revealing: “H[einri]ch Klipper Offenbach, a.M.” is in Behrens-Schrift, a typeface that was first cast by the Rudhard’sche Gießerei in 1901. The sign can’t be any older than that. Behrens-Schrift was immensely popular in the first and second decade of the 20th century, but it’s impossible to rule out a later date.

>Do you think the 22 1/2 might be Zoll?
That sounds plausible to me. I don’t know about hats in particular, but at least in some areas, Zoll remained a common unit until deep into the 20th century.

Also what about the single letter on the inside of the sweatband?
No Fraktur, but rather a bold Antiqua with ball terminals, as it was common in the time and period, cf. this piece of fascia lettering from Heidelberg. It could be either a ‘J’ with a spur, or bifurcated base (as in a Tuscan), or simply a minuscule ‘r’. A wild guess: Would the manufacturer have felt the need to denote the right-hand (rechts) side?

>Do you have any idea why "Extra Quality" was used on the liner? In most cases you see "Extra Qualität" (see below). Could this be time specific?
I assume the English spelling was chosen because it appears underneath the royal coat of arms of the United Kingdom.

http://typedrawers.com/discussion/2294/german-script-assistance-antique-melone-bowler-hat#latest
 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
Osna "Sparta", 58cm, Wolfsram/Tungsten, NOS probably 1950s. This hat is very stiff and was machine formed. It's Wool but might have Casein and is heavily impregnated. I really like finding low price point hats like this one. It's NOS but has some moth / insect issues. There is no company mark on the paper label so I am thinking "Osna" (a German city / town) is a trademark for a distributor like Friedrich W. Schneider who are still in business today (own the Stetson trademark for Europe).

35754058754_87c6f2d2fb_b.jpg


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36589228325_849a72ffe2_b.jpg


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Special Model

35780021073_c1b3298a23_b.jpg


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36589209725_fe3e8f38db_b.jpg


Some background information from the seller.

"Yes that was an old textile business (about 200 years old) with us in place, the owner has died and left the home club in Bippen the is located in Lower Saxony / district Osnabrück the business house and the inventory. Now we are trying to sell everything by and by.
It was a wealthy business house of the legacy has also gone a great part to the USA.

36423474042_c4c133cafd_b.jpg


36423474112_609f47c7ef_b.jpg


https://www.heimatverein-bippen.de/ "
 
Last edited:
Messages
18,496
Location
Nederland
My guess is the Windsor and Manhattan Trademarks were owned by a Distributor like Friedrich W. Schneider.

Friedrich W. Schneider, Trademarks, 1951

36549497625_0572bc546d_o.jpg


The distributor could source hats from different hat companies. The problem is defunct companies (I have lists of German Hat Distributors / Wholesalers from this time period) are not present on the DPMAregister Trademark search. Friedrich W. Schneider (Stetson Europe) are still in business so some of their Trademarks from 1930s are still listed.

https://register.dpma.de/DPMAregister/marke/einsteiger (Search "Friedrich W. Schneider" under "Applicant/Proprietor:".)

36154914860_b395b15966_b.jpg
Stefan, Looks great! Again no mark and I can't put anything together from the paper label format.
Stefan, Super! This one was made by Mayser Ulm for Hut Seidl München. Hut Seidl München was directly linked to Mayser Ulm.

"With the participation of Anton Seidl, the owner of the J. A. Seidl hat factory in Munich, the company is transformed into a GmbH (private limited company) in 1914. The partners are Carl Mayser and Anton Seidl, who takes over sole ownership of the Mayser hat factory four years later (1918).

In 1924, Anton Seidl introduces production of ladies' hats and is thus able to double production. The name Mayser, which stands for high-quality hats, is registered at the patent office in Berlin.

In 1929, the competitor in the Allgäu region is bought out and integrated into the Mayser company.

In 1940, Curt M. Zechbauer, the son-in-law of Anton Seidl, takes over management of the company and transforms it into a general partnership."

Here is a Mayser - Hut Seidl München. You have one too.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/3-mayser-hutfabrik/page-2#entry345

fe4402132e65aaed0330a74bf827743f.jpg
Steve, thanks for the extra information and the work you put in'I really appreciate that. It does make sense that these hatbrands were owned by a wholesale company like Schneider. Interesting to see that both Stanton and Mistral have more than one listing.
 
Messages
18,496
Location
Nederland
Hch. Klipper Offenbach a. M. "Extra Quality" early 1900s. I posted this old German Stiff Felt a few months ago. I took a real liking to it but the ribbon was damaged so I decided to buy some Mokuba (Japan) Silk ribbon which turned out to be a good match. I contacted Bob at Black Sheep Hat Works (BSHW) and he graciously accepted to install the new ribbon / bow. Unfortunately when the Stiff Felt arrived at BSHW the box had been crushed and the Stiff Felt had major crown dents. Bob did a masterful job of fixing the dents, cleaning up the felt and installing the new ribbon / bow. The bow design matches the original so of the time period. A big Thank You to Bob!

35732504034_433706faa3_b.jpg


36399182902_d3da36d42e_b.jpg


36399363452_b6e788e994_b.jpg


36429414341_2ce49435bd_b.jpg


This is the original damaged ribbon / bow that Bob replaced.

34828942066_aa573e2f00_b.jpg


34868566515_becba61ee4_b.jpg


Shipping damage and Bob's repair of the crown dents.

35734017354_5e5851662f_h.jpg


Bob had to remove the liner and discovered some writing on the top and sides of the liner (also on the sweatband).

36522184516_1a5f5c02a9_b.jpg


36568862825_9ac2f188cb_b.jpg


36522190396_e728f1e373_b.jpg


36522187676_2c5509f79b_b.jpg


I decided to investigate and I received the following information from Florian Hardwig of TypeDraws.com History of Typography forum. Florian, Thank you for this great information!

>I am a collector of German and Austrian vintage hats. I have an old Melone/Bowler hat and the following writing was found on the back of the liner.
I don’t see how the script could help with the dating. The first image includes a line saying “R. 1857”, but that doesn’t tell us much.
The sign on the inside is more revealing: “H[einri]ch Klipper Offenbach, a.M.” is in Behrens-Schrift, a typeface that was first cast by the Rudhard’sche Gießerei in 1901. The sign can’t be any older than that. Behrens-Schrift was immensely popular in the first and second decade of the 20th century, but it’s impossible to rule out a later date.

>Do you think the 22 1/2 might be Zoll?
That sounds plausible to me. I don’t know about hats in particular, but at least in some areas, Zoll remained a common unit until deep into the 20th century.

Also what about the single letter on the inside of the sweatband?
No Fraktur, but rather a bold Antiqua with ball terminals, as it was common in the time and period, cf. this piece of fascia lettering from Heidelberg. It could be either a ‘J’ with a spur, or bifurcated base (as in a Tuscan), or simply a minuscule ‘r’. A wild guess: Would the manufacturer have felt the need to denote the right-hand (rechts) side?

>Do you have any idea why "Extra Quality" was used on the liner? In most cases you see "Extra Qualität" (see below). Could this be time specific?
I assume the English spelling was chosen because it appears underneath the royal coat of arms of the United Kingdom.

http://typedrawers.com/discussion/2294/german-script-assistance-antique-melone-bowler-hat#latest
Steve, good to see that bowler restored to form. Must have been a heartstopping experience to see it damaged like that. Bob did a great job in both shaping it back to form and installing the new ribbon.
 
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
Steve, thanks for the extra information and the work you put in'I really appreciate that. It does make sense that these hatbrands were owned by a wholesale company like Schneider. Interesting to see that both Stanton and Mistral have more than one listing.
I need to go through the pre WWII German Hat Newspapers to see if I can find any of these trademarks. I don't have much information post 1950 because I am mostly focused on Pre WWII documentation. Most of the distributors that survived WWII also were present pre WWII like F.W. Schneider.
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,524
Location
Maryland
Steve, good to see that bowler restored to form. Must have been a heartstopping experience to see it damaged like that. Bob did a great job in both shaping it back to form and installing the new ribbon.
Stefan, Thanks! Luckily I wasn't aware of the extent of the damage. Bob did a fantastic job.
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
Mayser, Size 58
Found this nice Mayser last Sunday in Düsseldorf, looks like the last owner had no time for his hat [emoji16]condition is like new! Model Stetin Spezial - Color in a nice Deer brown the photos are a bit to bright.

c0a0cebf676c29f846690f4246844599.jpg

f61a321373da95b70e98ef3e9258c9cd.jpg

6a033070d06453c56481e14b44f8a93a.jpg

1658a5ee76ed856b3fdec16d3417440f.jpg



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Looks as good today as it did in the store window when it was new. Estimate of it's age?
 

Chepstow

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,406
Location
Germany/ Remscheid
Thank you Mike, I guess it's one of the 70s - Old logo Liner and a small logo of Mayser on the sweatband could be a indication for this time periode! The newer generation has only the Mayser name on the sweatband!


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