German & Austrian Hutmachers

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! It's an occupational name (Knife Smith) so not unusual. I don't believe I have come across one before.

 

[mayserwegener]

Interesting article on the issue of light and wear resistance of Wool, Fur Felt and Velour Hats. This is a rough translation but it's definitely worth taking a look at.

Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933)

On the Issue of Light and Wear Resistance of Wool, Fur Felt and Velour Hats

By Master Dyer Kurt Richter

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/169-fabrikation-von-damen-und-herren-filzhueten-der-deustchen-hutmacher-zeitung-1933/#entry977

 

[TheDane]

Great stuff as always, Steve

Dang Steve! I'm glad you like to share.

Have you ever seen a Messerschmidt hat? Do you know if that's a common surname in Germany?

A Danish politician, Morten Messerschmidt has just been elected to the European Parliament - and he started wearing fedoras a couple of years ago. Googling "Messerschmidt" in combination with "hat" or "hut" is not easy from DK these days

Anyway, here's a Messerschmidt pith helmet - and here's a card with a print of the factory.

 

[Garrett]

All great reads, Steve. Now lets see some actual hats!

 

[mayserwegener]

There are a couple a few pages back.

By the way everything on this thread is better organized (also includes missing photos) at my site.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/

 

[Garrett]

Love that site and visit it regularly

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! In the future for articles I will link to my website. I actually went ahead and did it for this latest article.

 

[mayserwegener]

Great stuff as always, Steve



A Danish politician, Morten Messerschmidt has just been elected to the European Parliament - and he started wearing fedoras a couple of years ago. Googling "Messerschmidt" in combination with "hat" or "hut" is not easy from DK these days

Anyway, here's a Messerschmidt pith helmet - and here's a card with a print of the factory.

Thanks!

 

[mayserwegener]

Anton Fischer, Guben, Ulricehamns Kommun, Sweden Textile Collection. Probably 1920s. I checked with the museum and this is the only photo they have available.

I have an ad for this company but have never come across one of their hats for sale or auction.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/171-anton-fischer-guben/#entry970

 

[mayserwegener]

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Incroyable" Melone, probably 1930s. I don't believe I have seen this model name (definitely unique) before so decided to save the photos.

http://www.canesegas.com/incroyables/6.2_incroyable.fashion.html

 

[Purplesage]

Tonak "Alpha" Seal Velour Fedora

Need some help dating this Tonak. It's made of "Seal Velour" and was made at "Plant Huckel" in Czechoslovakia. The hat is a Whiskey color with a light cream colored ribbon with the bow in back. Another lounger suggested that a the original ribbon may have been replaced at some time. The rest of the hat appears original to me. I was thinking it dates to the 40s or older. It has a 2 3/4" brim with raw edge and the open crown is approx 5 3/4 - 5 7/8. The leather sweatband is unreeded although at first glance I thought it was reeded. The band appears to be sewn to a thin piece of fabric that runs around the circumference of the hat opening. There are two holes in the sweatband on either side of the taped back seam which I was told was for a cord to hang your hat. Any information about this hat would be appreciated. If the ribbon isn't original I would like to see an example of a Tonak from the same period so I could see what the original ribbon may have looked like.

 

[mayserwegener]

Great find! It's an early TONAK made for the American market. My guess is early 1950s maybe late 1940s. J. Hückel´s Söhne (JHS) was nationalized as TONAK after WWII (1945). The sweatband is reeded but the reed is missing (the sweat must have fallen out and was crudely stitched back in). I am not sure about the ribbon (some had back bows) but based on the tak stitches it look suspicious (either put back in or from a different hat).

This made for the American market TONAK Formely Hückel Zephyr Seal Velour of mine is from the same time period and has all the original parts (also the TONAK Plant Hückel "Lutra" below it).

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/124-tonak-formely-hueckel/#entry739

This one is a bit later and is actually sold under the Hückel brand name. There were trademark issues but eventually TONAK was (sometime in the early 1950s?) able to use the Hückel brand name outside of German markets. Unfortunately the brim was cut on this one but all the parts are original. It's likely your hat originally looked like this one (has a similar liner and sweatband).

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/6-johann-hueckel%c2%b4s-soehne-hueckel-hutfabrik-weilheim/page__st__40#entry329

Here is a pre WWII (1930s) JHS "Alpha" Seal Velour of mine. I am not sure what the "Alpha" designates. It might be grade related. This one is a heavier weight felt than my "Zephyr" Seal Velours.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/6-johann-hueckel%c2%b4s-soehne-hueckel-hutfabrik-weilheim/page__st__80#entry610

J. Hückel´s Söhne (JHS) Zephyr Seal Velour, size 7 3/8 (late 1930s) vs. TONAK Formely Hückel Zephyr Seal Velour, size 7 3/8 (late 1940s early 1950s)

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/135-j-hueckel%C2%B4s-soehne-zephyr-seal-velour-late-1930s-vs-tonak-formely-hueckel-zephyr-seal-velour-late-1940s-early-1950s/

You can find out more about JHS (became TONAK after WWII) here.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/6-johann-hueckel%C2%B4s-soehne-hueckel-hutfabrik-weilheim/

 

[Purplesage]

Thanks, that's a wealth of information.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I'm glad someone bought that Tonak. It has sat on Etsy for over a year. I knew it would be a nice one - even better in your pics than I expected!!:eusa_clap

 

[Purplesage]

Baron I think it may have sat there so long because because the listing described it as a ladies hat which it isn't. Not to say that a lady couldn't wear it as well.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Does it measure up properly to the stated 22.5" circumference?

 

[mayserwegener]

By the way TONAK made great (just a bit below pre 1945 JHS) Velour during this time period (late 40s, early 50s).

 

[mayserwegener]

Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933)

I. Fashion Through the Ages

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/169-fabrikation-von-damen-und-herren-filzhueten-der-deustchen-hutmacher-zeitung-1933/#entry982

II. History of the Hat

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/169-fabrikation-von-damen-und-herren-filzhueten-der-deustchen-hutmacher-zeitung-1933/#entry980

 

[mayserwegener]

Technologische encyklopadie: oder, Alphabetisches handbuch der technologie, der technischen chemie und des machinenwesens K. Karmarch J.G. Cotta, (1836)

Hatter's Art (Hutmacherkunst)

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/173-technologische-encyklopadie-oder-alphabetisches-handbuch-der-technologie-der-technischen-chemie-und-des-machinenwesens-k-karmarch-jg-cotta-1836/

This is a German technology encyclopedia from 1836 that has a section that covers felt and hat making. I am working through a rough translation. So far I have completed the sections on materials and staining. Some very interesting information if you are willing to over look the rough translation.

 

[mayserwegener]

C. G. Wilke Guben made for A. Breiter München, size 55cm, probably 1930s. This one is made of wool or a fur - wool blend. Interesting black sweatband.