Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

German & Austrian Hutmachers

Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Interesting article on the issue of light and wear resistance of Wool, Fur Felt and Velour Hats. This is a rough translation but it's definitely worth taking a look at.

Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933)

14356153794_c1e5e48b58_b.jpg


On the Issue of Light and Wear Resistance of Wool, Fur Felt and Velour Hats

By Master Dyer Kurt Richter

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/169-fabrikation-von-damen-und-herren-filzhueten-der-deustchen-hutmacher-zeitung-1933/#entry977
 
Last edited:

TheDane

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,670
Location
Copenhagen, Denmark
Great stuff as always, Steve ;)

Dang Steve! I'm glad you like to share.

Have you ever seen a Messerschmidt hat? Do you know if that's a common surname in Germany?

A Danish politician, Morten Messerschmidt has just been elected to the European Parliament - and he started wearing fedoras a couple of years ago. Googling "Messerschmidt" in combination with "hat" or "hut" is not easy from DK these days :D

Anyway, here's a Messerschmidt pith helmet - and here's a card with a print of the factory.
 

Purplesage

One Too Many
Messages
1,995
Location
Boulder, CO
Tonak "Alpha" Seal Velour Fedora

Need some help dating this Tonak. It's made of "Seal Velour" and was made at "Plant Huckel" in Czechoslovakia. The hat is a Whiskey color with a light cream colored ribbon with the bow in back. Another lounger suggested that a the original ribbon may have been replaced at some time. The rest of the hat appears original to me. I was thinking it dates to the 40s or older. It has a 2 3/4" brim with raw edge and the open crown is approx 5 3/4 - 5 7/8. The leather sweatband is unreeded although at first glance I thought it was reeded. The band appears to be sewn to a thin piece of fabric that runs around the circumference of the hat opening. There are two holes in the sweatband on either side of the taped back seam which I was told was for a cord to hang your hat. Any information about this hat would be appreciated. If the ribbon isn't original I would like to see an example of a Tonak from the same period so I could see what the original ribbon may have looked like.


photo4-318_zps794bdb9b.jpg

photo3-335_zps3106117b.jpg

photo4-319_zpsfd1796e1.jpg

photo5-485_zps837346ac.jpg

photo3-363_zps6d9973d3.jpg

photo1-480_zps0cfb41bd.jpg

photo5-491_zpse93bd689.jpg

photo5-493_zps5c27cf76.jpg

photo1-486_zpsc243f39a.jpg

photo5-492_zpsc098514b.jpg
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Great find! It's an early TONAK made for the American market. My guess is early 1950s maybe late 1940s. J. Hückel´s Söhne (JHS) was nationalized as TONAK after WWII (1945). The sweatband is reeded but the reed is missing (the sweat must have fallen out and was crudely stitched back in). I am not sure about the ribbon (some had back bows) but based on the tak stitches it look suspicious (either put back in or from a different hat).

This made for the American market TONAK Formely Hückel Zephyr Seal Velour of mine is from the same time period and has all the original parts (also the TONAK Plant Hückel "Lutra" below it).

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/124-tonak-formely-hueckel/#entry739

This one is a bit later and is actually sold under the Hückel brand name. There were trademark issues but eventually TONAK was (sometime in the early 1950s?) able to use the Hückel brand name outside of German markets. Unfortunately the brim was cut on this one but all the parts are original. It's likely your hat originally looked like this one (has a similar liner and sweatband).

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/6-johann-hueckel%c2%b4s-soehne-hueckel-hutfabrik-weilheim/page__st__40#entry329

Here is a pre WWII (1930s) JHS "Alpha" Seal Velour of mine. I am not sure what the "Alpha" designates. It might be grade related. This one is a heavier weight felt than my "Zephyr" Seal Velours.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/6-johann-hueckel%c2%b4s-soehne-hueckel-hutfabrik-weilheim/page__st__80#entry610

J. Hückel´s Söhne (JHS) Zephyr Seal Velour, size 7 3/8 (late 1930s) vs. TONAK Formely Hückel Zephyr Seal Velour, size 7 3/8 (late 1940s early 1950s)

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/135-j-hueckel%C2%B4s-soehne-zephyr-seal-velour-late-1930s-vs-tonak-formely-hueckel-zephyr-seal-velour-late-1940s-early-1950s/

You can find out more about JHS (became TONAK after WWII) here.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/6-johann-hueckel%C2%B4s-soehne-hueckel-hutfabrik-weilheim/
 
Last edited:

Purplesage

One Too Many
Messages
1,995
Location
Boulder, CO
Baron I think it may have sat there so long because because the listing described it as a ladies hat which it isn't. Not to say that a lady couldn't wear it as well.
 
Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Technologische encyklopadie: oder, Alphabetisches handbuch der technologie, der technischen chemie und des machinenwesens K. Karmarch J.G. Cotta, (1836)

14424061461_55d74fa454_o.jpg


14426285284_4eb33e15df.jpg


Hatter's Art (Hutmacherkunst)

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/173-technologische-encyklopadie-oder-alphabetisches-handbuch-der-technologie-der-technischen-chemie-und-des-machinenwesens-k-karmarch-jg-cotta-1836/

This is a German technology encyclopedia from 1836 that has a section that covers felt and hat making. I am working through a rough translation. So far I have completed the sections on materials and staining. Some very interesting information if you are willing to over look the rough translation.
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
109,298
Messages
3,078,198
Members
54,244
Latest member
seeldoger47
Top