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German & Austrian Hutmachers

Messages
17,477
Location
Maryland
C. W. N.

Made by C. W. N (from paper label) and measures around 58cm. Probably German or Austrian and thinking prior to WWI. The felt finish is Bowler like but very soft and pliable. The wind cord end is missing and there is some damage to the liner but not bad for an such an old one. There is some writing in the front of the sweat that I can't make out.

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Messages
17,477
Location
Maryland
German - Austrian Back Bow

I couldn't find any company information. Probably either German or Austrian and could be prior to WWI. It didn't have a liner because you can see where the glued label is missing. Thick felt with a unique natural finish. It is a tiny one measuring around 54cm.

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150719541

One Too Many
Messages
1,288
Location
San Luis Potosi, SLP. Mexico
Hi Steve ¡¡¡¡

I am always diging your postings, ´cause I am learnig too much about them and hidden to Dieter ( I love my health fingers),thanks for posting¡¡¡
Cheers
:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
 
Particularly the back bow one. The sweatband material/colour and the curl on the brim is very reminiscnet of almost every old French hat i've seen/handled. It's very like the one I just sold to Garrett. It's possible that the French have reached the top of my personal list of golden era hatters, at least in terms of felt manufacture, as it feels 70 years after it was made. Who knows what they were like when new, right?

bk

p.s. I have a German hat from the 30s (I think) around here somewhere. I'll photograph it up and get it posted. The felt is astonishing.

mayserwegener said:
I am just asumming based on the source but I guess it is possible. Do you see something that points to a French connection?
 
Messages
17,477
Location
Maryland
Baron Kurtz said:
Particularly the back bow one. The sweatband material/colour and the curl on the brim is very reminiscnet of almost every old French hat i've seen/handled. It's very like the one I just sold to Garrett. It's possible that the French have reached the top of my personal list of golden era hatters, at least in terms of felt manufacture, as it feels 70 years after it was made. Who knows what they were like when new, right?

bk

p.s. I have a German hat from the 30s (I think) around here somewhere. I'll photograph it up and get it posted. The felt is astonishing.

It is possible but my strong feeling is they are both German or Austrian made hats / felt. The primary reason being the source is from a remote part of Thüringen.

The sweatband, cord and liner on the curled brim are very similar to my Negretti Adonis Melone also from the same area (Thüringen) / time period. Also the last initial on the paper tag is an "N". Could this be the same maker?

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http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/58-negretti/page__view__findpost__p__321

The use of the maker's initials on the paper tag (unfortunately the other words are washed out) is typical of other German - Austrian hats I have from that time period.

The one with the back bow has a natural velour finish (although very short)which might point to a Sudetenland source. In my opinion there is nothing style or construction wise (felt, sweat, liner) that would discard a German or Austrian source for either hat.

These museum booklets of Neutitschein (today Nový Jičín, Czech Republic), Sudetenland hat makers (Hückel, Peschel, Brüder Böhm) show similar style hats made from that time period.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/45-neutitschein-today-novy-jicin-museum-booklets/page__view__findpost__p__223

The French made great hats but so did the Germans and Austrians (also felt) of that time period. For example Johann Hückel´s Söhne and P. & C. Habig were both well regarded in France. My favorite old felt is Sudetenland (now Czech Republic) Austrian Velour especially the ones from Johann Hückel´s Söhne (see my avatar photo).

Looking forward to seeing your 30s German hat! :)
 
Messages
17,477
Location
Maryland
Paulus Fieldler, Hut- & Filzwarenfabrik, Zeulenroda Hutschachtel

Paulus Fieldler, Hut- & Filzwarenfabrik, Zeulenroda, Hutschachtel

This is the tattered hat box that the above hats came in. The box appears to be from about the same time period of the hats. Zeulenroda is close to the location of the seller. I don't see any signs of Paulus Fielder being the maker of curled brim hat (based on the initials on the paper label) it is possible they made they made the back bow or sold the hats. Also there could be no relationship between the hats and the box although I tend to think otherwise.

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Messages
17,477
Location
Maryland
Robert, Wow what a super Habig Zefir and in prestine condition no less! The bow work is classic! Looks great on you too! :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
 

rlk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,100
Location
Evanston, IL
mayserwegener said:
Robert, Wow what a super Habig Zefir and in prestine condition no less! The bow work is classic! Looks great on you too! :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
Thanks Steve! My favorite 2-3/8" brim so they ignored the American stingy trend - just a touch of Central European flavor in the bow.
 

davidraphael

Practically Family
Messages
790
Location
Germany & UK
mayserwegener said:
Thanks for posting it! It is a modern Trachtenhut from Oberstdorf, Germany. I found the maker listed but have no idea of the his status.

Hans Kreuzer
Hauptstr. 12
87561 Oberstdorf

08322 21 54


I can check next time I am in Oberstdorf. He's on the main street. The town is famous, along with Hindelang a few miles away, for making trachtenmode. I recently bought a traditional strickkittel (a kind of knitted jacket) from there.
This isn't a picture of me, but you can see these guys wearing strick kittels (the 3 guys on the left). They're absolutely essential to create that vintage holiday in the Alps look! :)

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Mobile Vulgus

One Too Many
Messages
1,144
Location
Chicago
It's a Bohm

As per request, I am posting this here, too with more photos... It is a German hat, I assume. A "Bohm Wien" on the liner. This one is a really nice blueish, steel gray. A thinish, 1 inch matching ribbon. It has a short crown. 2-3/4 inch brim. Seller said size 7 but it seems a tad loose, but not overly so. Maybe really a 7-1/8? A really nice, clean hat. Also added a shot of the paper tag under the liner.

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Messages
17,477
Location
Maryland
Thank you for posting the tag photo. Wien is Vienna (Austria) in German. Prior to WWII Böhm (known as Brüder Böhm) was also located in Nový Jičín, Czech Republic (prior to WWI Neutitschein, Austria). I am thinking this is an earlier one (late 1950s?) after Böhm regrouped in Vienna after WWII.
 

150719541

One Too Many
Messages
1,288
Location
San Luis Potosi, SLP. Mexico
Pretty hat ¡¡¡¡

Mobile Vulgus said:
As per request, I am posting this here, too with more photos... It is a German hat, I assume. A "Bohm Wien" on the liner. This one is a really nice blueish, steel gray. A thinish, 1 inch matching ribbon. It has a short crown. 2-3/4 inch brim. Seller said size 7 but it seems a tad loose, but not overly so. Maybe really a 7-1/8? A really nice, clean hat. Also added a shot of the paper tag under the liner.

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I believe that all german hats are great, the finished is unique ¡¡¡¡¡
:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
 

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