German & Austrian Hutmachers

[Garrett]

and it fits! Great score and great price :eusa_clap

 

[mayserwegener]

Keuthen Essen Homburg, listed size 59-60cm, early 1950s maybe older. This doesn't belong to me (I forgot to bid) but the auction photos were good and it's a really great Homburg. Fantastic color combinations and unique sweatband. I am not sure if Keuthen Essen was a shop or maker.

 

[Chepstow]

Steve, a nice Homburger with an unique sweatband. Keuthen, my guess, will be the retailer!

 

[mayserwegener]

Manfred, I agree. Another mystery hat!

 

[kolchak]

That's a very cool Hat.

I have a question for the authorities - what is considered exactly a 'true' Homburg brim. I have seen many styles and variations on hats calling themselves Homburgs, from those with an almost bowler like d'Orsay with a curved brim to stright and flat with a sharp straight upturned edge - like some older U.S. styles. The 'Godfather hat' style: Is it more so that that was the Homburg version Pacino wore in the film and has since become synonymous with the Homburg style and the older variations faded somewhat or did the film repopularize the traditional classic 'true' Homburg?

If I look at this picture of Anthony Eden, I am looking at what would be considered the classic Homburg shape, yes? Or did he also just popularize that particular style Homburg?

 

[Chepstow]

kolchak, I would say that is the classical look of a Homburg ( without dents )

 

[kolchak]

Vielen Dank Manfred

I have to tread lightly as my comment about wearing a Homburg was not well received here. lol

 

[mayserwegener]

I have never seen the name "Homburg Hut" used in pre 1940 German or Austrian hat related publications. This style of soft felt hat is definitely of German / Austrian origin. It came from the Continent to America and England. What was called a Fedora (also a term not used in Germany or Austria at that time) in America at the turn of last century would be considered a Homburg today. At that time there was little difference between a Homburg and a Fedora (also called Alpine). Here are a couple of threads you might want to take a look at.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?48956-Fedoras-in-the-19th-Century.&

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?49010-Fedoras-first-decade-of-the-20th-Century

In my opinion most people today have no idea about the history of the Homburg hat. I wear them in both casual and more formal settings. With and without side dents. It's really up to individual taste. Now Top hats are a different story.

By the way I am not a strict vintage dress person. I think most that post in the Hat forum fall into the same category.

 

[kolchak]

I have never seen the name "Homburg" used in pre 1940 German or Austrian hat related publications. This style of soft felt hat is definitely of German / Austrian origin. It came from the Continent to America and England. What was called a Fedora (also a term not used in Germany or Austria at that time) in America at the turn of last century would be considered a Homburg today. At that time there was little difference between a Homburg and a Fedora (also called Alpine). Here are a couple of threads you might want to take a look at.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?48956-Fedoras-in-the-19th-Century.&

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?49010-Fedoras-first-decade-of-the-20th-Century

In my opinion most people today have no idea about the history of the Homburg hat. I wear them in both casual and more formal settings. With and without side dents. It's really up to individual taste. Now Top hats are a different story.

By the way I am not a strict vintage dress person. I think most that post in the Hat forum fall into the same category.

Thank you! Very informative threads.

I am not a vintage dresser at all (way too lazy) but do wear a suit on the job a fair amount and I work outside a lot and with it have the opportunity to match hats.

 

[mayserwegener]

What is interesting is when Edward VII brought back the Homburg hat (PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe) it was considered an informal style hat.

King Edward VII (1902)

As you can see Edward's Homburg had more tapper and was worn in a casual setting (based on the time period and his standing). Also the brim curl is more German. Later it takes on a more of stiff felt look and becomes more formal (see Anthony Eden).

This is the first mention of the style as a Homburg Hat that I have run across in a German or Austrian publication of the late 19th or early 20th centuries. The use of English is directed towards export markets. I found this in the September 2, 1899 edition of Deutschen Hutmacher-Zeitung. Moeckel was the original maker of the Homburg hat for Edward VII.

Rare PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe Melone from the time period. I have never come across an old Möckel Homburg (would be a Holy Grail Find).

 

[splintercellsz]

This beauty just arrived, and more photos can be seen here.

Pre-WWI Peschel Velour, that was being refurbished by Art Fawcett. He put a new sweatband in it, and added a bow. Amazing work!

This has has already risen to be a favorite, but I really need to work on how to make the side-dents.

 

[mayserwegener]

Looks fantastic! Rare to find one in other than black. I checked the other photos. It originally had a liner. Does it still have a paper label? What size is it and where did you get it from? Super!

 

[splintercellsz]

Thank you, Mayser!! Sadly, there is no label. Art sized it up to a 7 1/4 for me, and it fits perfectly!! I recieved it from Rlk awhile back! Such a great hat! Any ideas on how to properly do side dents, or what look would be best for this hat?

 

[mayserwegener]

I thought it looked familiar. I would give it a a heavy steam and brush it with the nap. There is a mark from the old crease that you are going to have to live with (heavy steam with brush against the nap might help). It would have been worn brim up so I think your current setup is fine (although I think it would work ok snapped). I would probably lower the side dents some but that is personal taste.

Here is a A. Peschel of mine that is from around 1920 that was restored by Optimo. I think it works well both brim up and brim down but it has less brim flange.

 

[Chepstow]

Justine, congrats to that beauty Velour. The shape looks good, a good dose steam as Steve says should help for the side dents!

 

[Chepstow]

What is interesting is when Edward VII brought back the Homburg hat (PH. Möckel Hutfabrik, Homburg vor der Höhe) it was considered an informal style hat.

This is a photo of an Möckel Homburger, shown at the Stadtmuseum Bad Homburg. The typical gray Homburg! I don't know, is it a similar exemplar of the King Edward Homburger.

 

[mayserwegener]

Yes I believe that is a Möckel. It definitely has the look of Edward's Homburg.

 

[Chepstow]

Nice Video found from Lindenberg!" How we made a hat "!

[video=youtube;Rk_ZiwSqE24]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rk_ZiwSqE24&feature=player_detailpage[/video]

hatmaker Andreas Nuslan

[video=youtube;D4oZbvih9X0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4oZbvih9X0&feature=player_detailpage[/video]

[video=youtube;QvQxMw60jHg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvQxMw60jHg&feature=player_detailpage[/video]

 

[mayserwegener]

Manfred, Great videos! The metal form production process is especially interesting in the first Mayser - Lindenberg video. I assume they still make the blocks and forms in Germany. I wish I had visited Mayser before they closed the hat production factory and moved it to Slovakia. I have visited HutKoenig Regensburg a few times. Really fantastic old shop (very interesting Trachten hats) but very expensive.

 

[Chepstow]

I remeber me that you have a hat from Hutkönig. Here is another great Video!

[video=youtube;kx0JP4OS46c]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx0JP4OS46c&feature=player_detailpage[/video]


Shmuel Shapira Wien, for one hat individually for the customer up to 2000 EUR.

[video=youtube;SRdWQfrsvaM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRdWQfrsvaM&feature=player_detailpage[/video]


Hutmacher mit Chuzpe The Borsalino with the widest brim what I have ever seen!

[video=youtube;_aHI2Z-tdg0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aHI2Z-tdg0&feature=player_detailpage[/video]