French Hats and makers.

[steur]

Very unique colors, Stefan.

Thanks, Randy. I didn't associate Franch hats with colours in the way for example Borsalino does them, but the French do present quite the range.

 

[steur]

Berteil homburg in grey colour called 'abbey' on the label. Size 55 with the bound brim at 5cm and the crown at 10,5 cm at the center dent. Quite modest proportions for a homburg, which has me thinking it is a bit later one, likely early to mid sixties. The liner is different from the usual Berteil liner logo as well. Sold to me as a size 56, so not too pleased it turned out to be a size smaller, but I'll keep it anyway (it's on the stretcher).
The sweatband states "importé d'Angleterre" (imported from England) and in fact I know who the manufacturer was. It was made by Moores, because they used both the more square labels and the cloth size labels. Berteil used only the best manufacturers, so it is a testimony to the quality Moores could provide that Berteil chose them. It's still branded Berteil, so it gets a place in this thread.

 

[steur]

From a homburg with modest proportions to one with an imposing presence.
Mossant homburg in dark brown colour, called "angola" on the label. Unlined in a size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sweatband is unusual on this one, because it is both textured (we see this on older hats) and has a thin coating of felt on the inside, which I have not seen before. I'm thinking this is forties, but could be slightly older. It has some battle scars, but because of the colour they're hardly noticeable in real life.

 

[moehawk]

From a homburg with modest proportions to one with an imposing presence.
Mossant homburg in dark brown colour, called "angola" on the label. Unlined in a size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sweatband is unusual on this one, because it is both textured (we see this on older hats) and has a thin coating of felt on the inside, which I have not seen before. I'm thinking this is forties, but could be slightly older. It has some battle scars, but because of the colour they're hardly noticeable in real life.

Both beautiful hats!
Too bad about the size on the grey one. Good luck with the stretcher!

 

[steur]

Both beautiful hats!
Too bad about the size on the grey one. Good luck with the stretcher!

Thanks, John. I'll get there I think.

 

[the_imperialist]

Beautiful finds Stefan - have to say, out of the recent batch the Biset is the pick for me. Always love a heathered lighter felt - and with such good proportions!

 

[steur]

Beautiful finds Stefan - have to say, out of the recent batch the Biset is the pick for me. Always love a heathered lighter felt - and with such good proportions!

Thank you, Wayne. They were a nice surprise for sure.

 

[steur]

Sools homburg in black. I've never been disappointed by a Sools hat and I'm not now. There are some oddities about this one though. The hat is a size 56 with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. The felt is gorgeous. Let's see the hat first and I'll mention the oddities in the second post.

 

[steur]

Sools homburg part II

First of all the hat is dated: 24 janv 1939. The sweatband has a clear stamp: manufactured by James Cower Ltd. Seems clear enough, doesn't it? However the sweatband also mentions underneath the Sools logo: fabriqué par Laubin. So who made the hat? Was it English made or French?
The label underneath the sweatband is in French and looks to be a mirrored L (for Laubin). The size label is also the same as the ones I found in another Laubin hat. So I'm inclined to think Laubin was indeed the maker. Why the elaborate James Cower stamp though. Another oddity is that the crown part of the liner isn't sewn in straight. A rare occurance in a Sools hat.

The size label from another Laubin hat.

 

[steur]

Another recent find.
Berteil in grey. Size 58 with the raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. A more modern Berteil hat with a lovely hand to the felt. No labels inside the hat, so no indication about a maker. Weighs only 98 grams.

 

[steur]

Another French hat.
Mossant longhair in brown called Erable (maple). Size 58 with the overwelt brim at 6,2cm and the crown at a substantial 11,5cm at the center dent. A more modern Mossant, but the felt is wonderfully soft. A nice touch is the frayed bow in both the front and the back.

 

[steur]

Léon homburg in grey (called "cloud" on the label). It was sold to me as a "large hat" , but it turned out to be a size 56 with the brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. A nice sleek looking homburg. Léon was located on 21 Rue Daunou on the site of the "American Dream" pub, bar and restaurant. The sweatband has a stamp of Jan Chapelier, which was located on 14 Rue de Roma in Paris. Neither of them is the maker of the hat though. The label inside the hat betrays it as being English made, almost certainly by Moores, who, as we've seen, also made hats for Berteil. It's still branded Léon, so I'll say this is as much French as it is English and deserves a place here.

The Moores label (more square in shape that the other English manufacturers)

The location of 21 Rue Daunou

 

[steur]

Mossant Bayard in the colour gris blanc (white grey). The hat is in fact much more sand/tan coloured though. Size 56 with the raw edge brim at 5cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Very soft and pliable felt, which reminds me of Dalton felt. Unlined and I don't see any remnants of one. No traces of glue from a crown patch either. Quite lightweight at 94 grams.

 

[steur]

Laubin Grand Luxe Chiné Loden fedora in the colour Corneille (a mixed grey). Size 56 with the overwelt brim at 6cm and the crown at just under 9cm at the center dent. A fairly low crown on this one which had me thinking sixties or seventies. But the Laubin factory closed in 1955, so it must be from the early fifties. Weighs 105 grams. I really like the ribbon and bow on this one.

 

[steur]

Tirard Ragondia in bleu. Size 56 with the raw edge brim at 6cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Unlined it weighs 100 grams on the nose. I'm thinking forties on this one. Ragondia is short (but not very) for Rat Gondin or nutria and it was Tirards' most expensive felt, priced higher than beaver. The crown patch is likely added later given the different name on the sweatband and it is a bit crude. More about the shop in part II.

 

[steur]

Part II

Rémy-Letitre was called Rémy-Thomas before. It is unclear when the name was changed though. The shop was located on 30 Place Dalton in Boulogne sur Mer, France for a long time. Seems like they closed down in 2019. There's a bridal shop on its location now. Here are some pictures of the place and of the shop.

The shop how it looked until 2019.

A very early shot of the square. The Chapellerie that can be seen on this picture is not the 30 Place Dalton (which is on the left behind the church), so maybe an earlier location.

This is a view not of the main square but taken from that location. The side of the church is on the left. Rémy-Letitre is mentioned on a bilboard on the right of the picture. Likely this is just after the war.

And the view from the same place in streetview. The arched window on the right is the same.

Seller didn't mention the hat was a Tirard and the only pictures provided were these:

Not much to go on and not even the size was given. But the price was right and I kind of like these "lottery" hats. More than a pleasant surprise in this case.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Laubin Grand Luxe Chiné Loden fedora in the colour Corneille (a mixed grey). Size 56 with the overwelt brim at 6cm and the crown at just under 9cm at the center dent. A fairly low crown on this one which had me thinking sixties or seventies. But the Laubin factory closed in 1955, so it must be from the early fifties. Weighs 105 grams. I really like the ribbon and bow on this one.

Laubin Grand Luxe Chiné Loden fedora in the color Corneille is another piece that confirms, at least in my opinion, how connected French hat manufacturers were at a certain point in their history. The variety of felt and its color can be found, with minimal variations, in the Flechet and Tirard production and even some Morreton has this type of felt. I like the Lubin Grand Luxe very much and I confess that I do not have this manufacturer in my vast collection of French. Bravo Stefan!

Tirard Ragondia in bleu. Size 56 with the raw edge brim at 6cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Unlined it weighs 100 grams on the nose. I'm thinking forties on this one. Ragondia is short (but not very) for Rat Gondin or nutria and it was Tirards' most expensive felt, priced higher than beaver. The crown patch is likely added later given the different name on the sweatband and it is a bit crude. More about the shop in part II.

I have no particular comments for this Mossant Ragondia and its color combination.
I use an Italian word: meraviglioso ;-)

 

[steur]

Laubin Grand Luxe Chiné Loden fedora in the color Corneille is another piece that confirms, at least in my opinion, how connected French hat manufacturers were at a certain point in their history. The variety of felt and its color can be found, with minimal variations, in the Flechet and Tirard production and even some Morreton has this type of felt. I like the Lubin Grand Luxe very much and I confess that I do not have this manufacturer in my vast collection of French. Bravo Stefan!

I have no particular comments for this Mossant Ragondia and its color combination.
I use an Italian word: meraviglioso ;-)

Thank you, Daniele. Maybe you do have a Laubin in your collection but it just isn't labelled as one. Seems like they made hats for various brands and retailers. Now we need a dedicated Frenchman to unravel the complete history of the French manufacturers for us

 

[escher]

I walked past 22av Victor Hugo the other day. Owners of Sools hats will recognize the address.

 

[steur]

Gelot in black. Size 58 with the bound brim at 6cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Delivered in its original box and with the Gelot packing paper as well. While it is supposed to be a size 58, it doesn't feel like it, because it more or less fits my size 56 (a bit roomy, but still).
The Gelot felts I've handled before were of quality, but the finishing wasn't very good to be honest. This one is a lot better on both. And I do wonder if the felt could be beaver or a mix.