French Hats and makers.

[Rmccamey]

I knew I left my hat somewhere!!!

Everest qualité superieure fedora in grey. Size 60 with the overwelt brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. The heather felt is nice enough, but the hat lacks the high standard of earlier Ecuyer and Thomas production. The proportions of the hat are modest as well.

 

[steur]

I knew I left my hat somewhere!!!

Knew it had to belong to someone from the lounge . Same thing happens to me if I drop something small; always ends up way further than laws of physics allow!

 

[steur]

Morreton extra luxe in grey for Henry of Marseille. Size 56 with the raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the fairly low crown at 9,5cm at the center dent. Morreton was a midtier manufacturer in general, even if they did make some exceptional hats on occasion, and this hat reflects that. Certainly not bad but nothing spectacular either. No labels under the sweat, so not much else I can tell you. The most remarkable feature about this one is the size printed on the sweatband bow, which is a first.

 

[steur]

Galeries Lafayette Hatters of Paris opera hat (or tuxedo hat) in black. Size 57 (I think, because it is roomy for me), with the brim at 6cm and the crown at 12cm at the center dent. Very similar in style to the Willoughby one @drmaxtejeda has. The brim binding runs right along the underside of the brim where it is attached to the liner. There is no obvious sweatband. The quality of felt and finishing is exceptional. Because Galeries Lafayette is a department store (founded in 1893) and there's no way to look anywhere for labels the manufacturer will remain a mystery.

 

[drmaxtejeda]

Galeries Lafayette Hatters of Paris opera hat (or tuxedo hat) in black. Size 57 (I think, because it is roomy for me), with the brim at 6cm and the crown at 12cm at the center dent. Very similar in style to the Willoughby one @drmaxtejeda has. The brim binding runs right along the underside of the brim where it is attached to the liner. There is no obvious sweatband. The quality of felt and finishing is exceptional. Because Galeries Lafayette is a department store (founded in 1893) and there's no way to look anywhere for labels the manufacturer will remain a mystery.

Hi, Stefan!

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Galeries Lafayette Hatters of Paris opera hat (or tuxedo hat) in black. Size 57 (I think, because it is roomy for me), with the brim at 6cm and the crown at 12cm at the center dent. Very similar in style to the Willoughby one @drmaxtejeda has. The brim binding runs right along the underside of the brim where it is attached to the liner. There is no obvious sweatband. The quality of felt and finishing is exceptional. Because Galeries Lafayette is a department store (founded in 1893) and there's no way to look anywhere for labels the manufacturer will remain a mystery.

If it’s the hat I’m thinking of, I sold it the Garrett and Garret sold it to Max. Nice to keep these hats in the family.
Yours is a dandy!

 

[steur]

Hi, Stefan!

Hey, Max!

If it’s the hat I’m thinking of, I sold it the Garrett and Garret sold it to Max. Nice to keep these hats in the family.
Yours is a dandy!

It's this one: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/willoughby-hats-of-paris.84226/post-2556368

I think it's the one that was on Ebay and Max contacted me about it. Glad he bought it back then; it's a special hat.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Hey, Max!


It's this one: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/willoughby-hats-of-paris.84226/post-2556368

I think it's the one that was on Ebay and Max contacted me about it. Glad he bought it back then; it's a special hat.

That Willoughby was a rare find! My tuxedo hat was different. I sold it to Garrett and he in turn sold it to Max. Of course Max has two (or more!) of these rare hats.

 

[steur]

That Willoughby was a rare find! My tuxedo hat was different. I sold it to Garrett and he in turn sold it to Max. Of course Max has two (or more!) of these rare hats.

That sounds like Max alright

 

[steur]

Mossant Castor Hudson (beaverfelt) homburg for Sools in blue called bleu mattan (matt blue). Size 56 with the brim at 6cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Doesn't get much better than this; the felt is fabulous with a great hand to it and the colour, while being distinctly blue, is still subtle. Weighs 138 grams.

 

[Wangenheim]

A couple of years ago I bought this black, french Homburg from the 60s(?). But I was never able to find out more about the company "d'Arval Paris". Dark brown Sweat band. The lining is a nice silk. Hight 10,5cm, but only a shallow dent. Brim 5,6cm. Size 5/57.

Does anyone know this brand?

 

[steur]

A couple of years ago I brought this black, french Homburg from the 60s(?). But I was never able to find out more about the company "d'Arval Paris". Dark brown Sweat band. The lining is a nice silk. Hight 10,5cm, but only a shallow dent. Brim 5,6cm. Size 5/57.

Does anyone know this brand?

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Don't know this brand, but I think it's a Mossant made hat. The size label is the same and the lion/griffin in the shield is the same as the Mossant one.
The size label:

The lion/griffin:

 

[Wangenheim]

Ah, very nice, thank you! I regognised the similar size labels in the thread, but the eagle-lion says it all.

But that would mean, it's not really a different company, that is using Mossant hats, but rather some kind of split-brand of Mossant themselves? Otherwise they wouldn't have been allowed to use their logo, or would they?

 

[steur]

Ah, very nice, thank you! I regognised the similar size labels in the thread, but the eagle-lion says it all.

But that would mean, it's not really a different company, that is using Mossant hats, but rather some kind of split-brand of Mossant themselves? Otherwise they wouldn't have been allowed to use their logo, or would they?

Most manufacturers allowed retailers their own (store)branding, so indeed not a different manufacturer, but likely a brand name.

 

[Wangenheim]

Yes, only a brand. But I wanted to emphasize, that it can't be just a different company, that was labeling the Mossant hat. Because this would have been an abuse to their copyright regarding the logo. I would argue, that this brand must be a sub brand by Mossant themselves. Because they were the only ones who could savely use their lion in a new logo.

 

[steur]

Yes, only a brand. But I wanted to emphasize, that it can't be just a different company, that was labeling the Mossant hat. Because this would have been an abuse to their copyright regarding the logo. I would argue, that this brand must be a sub brand by Mossant themselves. Because they were the only ones who could savely use their lion in a new logo.

In theory that is true, but manufacturers did outsource production of their hats with other manufacturers sometimes. That could also lead to this sort of hybrid hats.

 

[steur]

Tirard in brown. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent, Unlined and lightweight and with vents on either side. So what could possibly be better? Well, it has been attacked by moths, but that's not a big deal if the rest of the hat made up for it. But this hat doesn't seem to make up it's mind about what it want's to be. It can be shaped brim up, but that doesn't work entirely. Wearing it brim down doesn't work all that well either because the flange is quite pronounced so the brim almost blocks your view. Then the thin ribbon doesn't work with the shape either I think. Tirard can do much much better than this one. The execution is good, but the design just doesn't work. Or am I too harsh?

 

[steur]

This summer when I visited Daniele in Verona he had found a magnificent Morreton Velour hat for me. I knew Morreton as a middle tier manufacturer, but since then I keep an eye out for their hats to see if something of equal quality comes along. Took a chance on this one and what do you know?

Morreton Chamois in black. Size 56 with the raw edge brim at 7cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. It was the shape that attracted me to buy it, but the felt is fabulous. It is a chamois finish, but with a very short nap, close to a regular felt. Just about 100 grams of goodness. Interesting is that the Morreton logo on the sweatband was overstamped with the name Borsiliano.

 

[steur]

Mossant de luxe fedora in a blue colour called orient. Size 57 with the raw edge brim at a generous 6cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Lightweight (82 grams), unlined and vented. On this one they got everything right, even the thin ribbon works really well here. Compare it with the Tirard I posted above and you see what I mean. The colour is probably the main attraction though, reminds me of a Borsalino Nembo I have.

And old image of Rix Chapelier, where it was sold.

 

[PanosChris]

This summer when I visited Daniele in Verona he had found a magnificent Morreton Velour hat for me. I knew Morreton as a middle tier manufacturer, but since then I keep an eye out for their hats to see if something of equal quality comes along. Took a chance on this one and what do you know?

Morreton Chamois in black. Size 56 with the raw edge brim at 7cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. It was the shape that attracted me to buy it, but the felt is fabulous. It is a chamois finish, but with a very short nap, close to a regular felt. Just about 100 grams of goodness. Interesting is that the Morreton logo on the sweatband was overstamped with the name Borsiliano.

That's Very nice Stefan! Now in regards to Verona, did you locate the hide with the "impossible" gems? If so I might have to plan the trip soon... I am willing to share the spoils if you know a safe way out