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French Hats and makers.

Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
It was suggested I post here with some pictures. Last week I started out by thinking I should wear a hat. Oh, I've been wearing running and baseball caps for years, but the time (and season) has come to put a real hat on my head. I've learned a lot in a week, but there's still so much to learn. Nevertheless, I've taken the plunge and will soon have three -- maybe four -- hats to my name.

The first one to arrive I found on Etsy. It's a 1980s Flechet grey velous fedora, size 7-1/4. It's roughly 4-3/4" to the crown, and the brim is approximately 1-3/4". The band is black cord with a feather.

2017-12-02%2015.56.33-L.jpg

2017-12-02%2015.56.06-L.jpg
2017-12-02%2015.55.36-L.jpg

2017-12-02%2015.55.49-L.jpg
That is one gorgeous Flechet Fred. Beautiful liner logo. The corded hat band adds a real European sense of style. The material may well be a fur felt blend rather than wool. I'm not up on French hats of recent vintage, someone will chime in I'm sure. Very nice introduction to the hobby.
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
It was suggested I post here with some pictures. Last week I started out by thinking I should wear a hat. Oh, I've been wearing running and baseball caps for years, but the time (and season) has come to put a real hat on my head. I've learned a lot in a week, but there's still so much to learn. Nevertheless, I've taken the plunge and will soon have three -- maybe four -- hats to my name.

The first one to arrive I found on Etsy. It's a 1980s Flechet grey velous fedora, size 7-1/4. It's roughly 4-3/4" to the crown, and the brim is approximately 1-3/4". The band is black cord with a feather.

2017-12-02%2015.56.33-L.jpg

2017-12-02%2015.56.06-L.jpg
2017-12-02%2015.55.36-L.jpg

2017-12-02%2015.55.49-L.jpg
Nice start there in the real hat world! Flechet was a very prolific French maker and the finishing on their hats is always top notch. They did the special felt finishes really well. I have three Flechet hats and all of them have a special finish, either velours or longhair. One thing about them though is that their styling was more fashion oriented; you won't see the classic forties and early fifties fedora proportions on their hats very often.
 

65 Classic

Practically Family
Messages
587
Location
Sanford
Just added 2 to the French Connection. Anyone has info on the brands? Neither hat had stamps on it. The Lamarque had an elastic wind trolley that was disintegrated.

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Messages
17,521
Location
Maryland
Great finds! How did you acquire them?

The "Thibet" (it's made of Wool) was made by Jean Bourrel Manufacture De Chapeaux, Quillan, France. This area (including Espéraza) was a hat making center of France. The company went out of business in 1949. You can learn more at this link (Daniele has a fantastic J.B. "Thibet").

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/french-hats-and-makers.36690/page-13#post-1935555

I will see if I can find out anything about the first one marked "Lamarque, Prades". I think I might have come across this name before.
 

65 Classic

Practically Family
Messages
587
Location
Sanford
Great finds! How did you acquire them?

The "Thibet" (it's made of Wool) was made by Jean Bourrel Manufacture De Chapeaux, Quillan, France. This area (including Espéraza) was a hat making center of France. The company went out of business in 1949. You can learn more at this link (Daniele has a fantastic J.B. "Thibet").

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/french-hats-and-makers.36690/page-13#post-1935555

I will see if I can find out anything about the first one marked "Lamarque, Prades". I think I might have come across this name before.

I love it when the puzzle comes together! I spotted them on etsy, offered $20 each and the rest is history. Thank you for your insight. Where many European hats made of wool back then? I like the Thibet's proportions.
 

65 Classic

Practically Family
Messages
587
Location
Sanford
I really like seeing hats like these two. Thank you for purchasing and displaying them. Yes Wool hats like these were very popular in Europe during this time period. You can get more of an insight from reading this article on Victor Böhm (of Brüder Böhm) from "The American Hatter" (1925?).

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/7-brüder-böhm-hutfabrik/#entry384
In my ignorance, I really didn't give wool hats credit. It is now that I can appreciate these hats. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and pointing to the history.
 

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,841
Location
Northern California
Fruno made me buy this one. It's all his fault.
Well, to be honest, this hat, listed as a vintage bowler derby black hat Edka Tirard Elite 7 1/4 did catch my eye enough to put it on my watch list, but I let it go by in my excitement over a package from Stefan. But, after just a nudge from Fruno, I hit the buy button when it was relisted. I mean, how can you go wrong for 25 bucks?
It arrived yesterday. First thing I noticed was that it was not a bowler, but a beautiful Homburg. My bad eyes and not the best seller pics...but I didn't mind! Second thing I noticed when I put it on was that it was considerably smaller than 7 1/4. :(

Here's some pics open crown.

5bf787f5a754d882674b26cb29e18b30.jpg
754ad439ebd86b3af9083b8b6a161aaa.jpg
400e7369f7b78bf193cae4b3fd12adc8.jpg


Well, when I began examining it, I found someone had stuffed a whole lot of stuff under the sweat to size it down.

3f0fb45a6d4ff99cd2e484ee79c15e7f.jpg


Yes, that was all under there. Now it's more like a snug 7 3/8!
Note the printed material...looks like one once said "morphine".
Here's insides:

90f069a511ab9d239a244e07fe1ef706.jpg
e7e0a69bb74093c28978fb1d79694dde.jpg
3895093c447bc76221aa931ee6277fee.jpg
a229a7cbd802cc9b60c9a8ab2ea6b1cc.jpg


Crown is 5 3/4", brim 2 1/2". 2"ribbon, slightly damaged in the back. 143g. The sweat was dry, but responded well to Lexol. The felt is awesome, great hand and shapes nicely. I don't know where Tirard fell on the quality scale of French hats, but I'm guessing high.

f7fc9f7c15e16e364a3a718be315c1f2.jpg
ad69c8da9b78ce20a71af0f0c3a03bb4.jpg
9ca59594875eb14f2495eef4e8a1d1b0.jpg


Headshot

fdeba2b0f7fc49355355b1ff8f6e8808.jpg


I'm thinking 40's with the dimensions and shape. Any input always welcome!

Powered by happy thoughts
 

65 Classic

Practically Family
Messages
587
Location
Sanford
Fruno made me buy this one. It's all his fault.
Well, to be honest, this hat, listed as a vintage bowler derby black hat Edka Tirard Elite 7 1/4 did catch my eye enough to put it on my watch list, but I let it go by in my excitement over a package from Stefan. But, after just a nudge from Fruno, I hit the buy button when it was relisted. I mean, how can you go wrong for 25 bucks?
It arrived yesterday. First thing I noticed was that it was not a bowler, but a beautiful Homburg. My bad eyes and not the best seller pics...but I didn't mind! Second thing I noticed when I put it on was that it was considerably smaller than 7 1/4. :(

Here's some pics open crown.

5bf787f5a754d882674b26cb29e18b30.jpg
754ad439ebd86b3af9083b8b6a161aaa.jpg
400e7369f7b78bf193cae4b3fd12adc8.jpg


Well, when I began examining it, I found someone had stuffed a whole lot of stuff under the sweat to size it down.

3f0fb45a6d4ff99cd2e484ee79c15e7f.jpg


Yes, that was all under there. Now it's more like a snug 7 3/8!
Note the printed material...looks like one once said "morphine".
Here's insides:

90f069a511ab9d239a244e07fe1ef706.jpg
e7e0a69bb74093c28978fb1d79694dde.jpg
3895093c447bc76221aa931ee6277fee.jpg
a229a7cbd802cc9b60c9a8ab2ea6b1cc.jpg


Crown is 5 3/4", brim 2 1/2". 2"ribbon, slightly damaged in the back. 143g. The sweat was dry, but responded well to Lexol. The felt is awesome, great hand and shapes nicely. I don't know where Tirard fell on the quality scale of French hats, but I'm guessing high.

f7fc9f7c15e16e364a3a718be315c1f2.jpg
ad69c8da9b78ce20a71af0f0c3a03bb4.jpg
9ca59594875eb14f2495eef4e8a1d1b0.jpg


Headshot

fdeba2b0f7fc49355355b1ff8f6e8808.jpg


I'm thinking 40's with the dimensions and shape. Any input always welcome!

Powered by happy thoughts

Don't you just love it? Good news after bad. Great catch Moehawk
 
Messages
19,427
Location
Funkytown, USA
Fruno made me buy this one. It's all his fault.
Well, to be honest, this hat, listed as a vintage bowler derby black hat Edka Tirard Elite 7 1/4 did catch my eye enough to put it on my watch list, but I let it go by in my excitement over a package from Stefan. But, after just a nudge from Fruno, I hit the buy button when it was relisted. I mean, how can you go wrong for 25 bucks?
It arrived yesterday. First thing I noticed was that it was not a bowler, but a beautiful Homburg. My bad eyes and not the best seller pics...but I didn't mind! Second thing I noticed when I put it on was that it was considerably smaller than 7 1/4. :(

Here's some pics open crown.

5bf787f5a754d882674b26cb29e18b30.jpg
754ad439ebd86b3af9083b8b6a161aaa.jpg
400e7369f7b78bf193cae4b3fd12adc8.jpg


Well, when I began examining it, I found someone had stuffed a whole lot of stuff under the sweat to size it down.

3f0fb45a6d4ff99cd2e484ee79c15e7f.jpg


Yes, that was all under there. Now it's more like a snug 7 3/8!
Note the printed material...looks like one once said "morphine".
Here's insides:

90f069a511ab9d239a244e07fe1ef706.jpg
e7e0a69bb74093c28978fb1d79694dde.jpg
3895093c447bc76221aa931ee6277fee.jpg
a229a7cbd802cc9b60c9a8ab2ea6b1cc.jpg


Crown is 5 3/4", brim 2 1/2". 2"ribbon, slightly damaged in the back. 143g. The sweat was dry, but responded well to Lexol. The felt is awesome, great hand and shapes nicely. I don't know where Tirard fell on the quality scale of French hats, but I'm guessing high.

f7fc9f7c15e16e364a3a718be315c1f2.jpg
ad69c8da9b78ce20a71af0f0c3a03bb4.jpg
9ca59594875eb14f2495eef4e8a1d1b0.jpg


Headshot

fdeba2b0f7fc49355355b1ff8f6e8808.jpg


I'm thinking 40's with the dimensions and shape. Any input always welcome!

Powered by happy thoughts

Nice hat. But rectocalcium?

Ewww!


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
Fruno made me buy this one. It's all his fault.
Well, to be honest, this hat, listed as a vintage bowler derby black hat Edka Tirard Elite 7 1/4 did catch my eye enough to put it on my watch list, but I let it go by in my excitement over a package from Stefan. But, after just a nudge from Fruno, I hit the buy button when it was relisted. I mean, how can you go wrong for 25 bucks?
It arrived yesterday. First thing I noticed was that it was not a bowler, but a beautiful Homburg. My bad eyes and not the best seller pics...but I didn't mind! Second thing I noticed when I put it on was that it was considerably smaller than 7 1/4. :(

Here's some pics open crown.

5bf787f5a754d882674b26cb29e18b30.jpg
754ad439ebd86b3af9083b8b6a161aaa.jpg
400e7369f7b78bf193cae4b3fd12adc8.jpg


Well, when I began examining it, I found someone had stuffed a whole lot of stuff under the sweat to size it down.

3f0fb45a6d4ff99cd2e484ee79c15e7f.jpg


Yes, that was all under there. Now it's more like a snug 7 3/8!
Note the printed material...looks like one once said "morphine".
Here's insides:

90f069a511ab9d239a244e07fe1ef706.jpg
e7e0a69bb74093c28978fb1d79694dde.jpg
3895093c447bc76221aa931ee6277fee.jpg
a229a7cbd802cc9b60c9a8ab2ea6b1cc.jpg


Crown is 5 3/4", brim 2 1/2". 2"ribbon, slightly damaged in the back. 143g. The sweat was dry, but responded well to Lexol. The felt is awesome, great hand and shapes nicely. I don't know where Tirard fell on the quality scale of French hats, but I'm guessing high.

f7fc9f7c15e16e364a3a718be315c1f2.jpg
ad69c8da9b78ce20a71af0f0c3a03bb4.jpg
9ca59594875eb14f2495eef4e8a1d1b0.jpg


Headshot

fdeba2b0f7fc49355355b1ff8f6e8808.jpg


I'm thinking 40's with the dimensions and shape. Any input always welcome!

Powered by happy thoughts
I'm glad this one worked out so wonderfully. I was watching it too, let it go. Saw the relisting and still didn't grab it. Super cool John, nice looking bowler! I grabbed a listing mistake calling a homburg a bowler, not knowing what it was til in my hands. Really a nice surprise. Although a French Bowler would have been cool too. Congratulations.
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Just added 2 to the French Connection. Anyone has info on the brands? Neither hat had stamps on it. The Lamarque had an elastic wind trolley that was disintegrated.

View attachment 96482 View attachment 96483 View attachment 96484 View attachment 96485 View attachment 96486 View attachment 96487
Had not seen these before. Fantastic old hats and great finds. Information on the French makers is supremely scarce (to the point of non-existing) which is odd for such a prolific hat-making country.
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Fruno made me buy this one. It's all his fault.
Well, to be honest, this hat, listed as a vintage bowler derby black hat Edka Tirard Elite 7 1/4 did catch my eye enough to put it on my watch list, but I let it go by in my excitement over a package from Stefan. But, after just a nudge from Fruno, I hit the buy button when it was relisted. I mean, how can you go wrong for 25 bucks?
It arrived yesterday. First thing I noticed was that it was not a bowler, but a beautiful Homburg. My bad eyes and not the best seller pics...but I didn't mind! Second thing I noticed when I put it on was that it was considerably smaller than 7 1/4. :(

Here's some pics open crown.

5bf787f5a754d882674b26cb29e18b30.jpg
754ad439ebd86b3af9083b8b6a161aaa.jpg
400e7369f7b78bf193cae4b3fd12adc8.jpg


Well, when I began examining it, I found someone had stuffed a whole lot of stuff under the sweat to size it down.

3f0fb45a6d4ff99cd2e484ee79c15e7f.jpg


Yes, that was all under there. Now it's more like a snug 7 3/8!
Note the printed material...looks like one once said "morphine".
Here's insides:

90f069a511ab9d239a244e07fe1ef706.jpg
e7e0a69bb74093c28978fb1d79694dde.jpg
3895093c447bc76221aa931ee6277fee.jpg
a229a7cbd802cc9b60c9a8ab2ea6b1cc.jpg


Crown is 5 3/4", brim 2 1/2". 2"ribbon, slightly damaged in the back. 143g. The sweat was dry, but responded well to Lexol. The felt is awesome, great hand and shapes nicely. I don't know where Tirard fell on the quality scale of French hats, but I'm guessing high.

f7fc9f7c15e16e364a3a718be315c1f2.jpg
ad69c8da9b78ce20a71af0f0c3a03bb4.jpg
9ca59594875eb14f2495eef4e8a1d1b0.jpg


Headshot

fdeba2b0f7fc49355355b1ff8f6e8808.jpg


I'm thinking 40's with the dimensions and shape. Any input always welcome!

Powered by happy thoughts
Great old Tirard, John. My guess is it might even be slightly earlier. Whatever the age: great find!
 

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,841
Location
Northern California
I'm glad this one worked out so wonderfully. I was watching it too, let it go. Saw the relisting and still didn't grab it. Super cool John, nice looking bowler! I grabbed a listing mistake calling a homburg a bowler, not knowing what it was til in my hands. Really a nice surprise. Although a French Bowler would have been cool too. Congratulations.
Thanks Mike!
Glad you hesitated!:D
Good thing we like both styles. Makes getting one instead if the other less if an issue!
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,253
Location
Verona - Italia
Carlton hat, French made during the fifties of forties. I have some explanations, about it, from the son of the last owner of A. Meer hats shop in Strasbourg
5cf1pv.jpg

Size is 61 centimeters or 7 5/8 US. Measuremets are: raw brim at 6.5 cm. and open crown at 14 cm.
2hnyu6a.jpg

Medium brown felt of excellent quality. It is new and never worn.
13zmv4z.jpg

Matching ribbon at 2.5 cm.
7269eh.jpg

It arrived new from a heyday of the hats. I bought the remains of the "A. Meer" hats shop some years ago
rjmoo9.jpg

2ccs7wk.jpg

Finished very well. It was an high end hat

x0xsh2.jpg

He is ready for all holders of suitable heads ;)
 

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