Formal Wear Primer

[fluteplayer07]

Very nice work, Sproily!

And thanks to all for the feedback. I picked up a one button peak lapel tux, and I've read that before black tie was given its own accessories, one could wear a full dress shirt and white tie studs... I may have interpreted this incorrectly, though. I'm not sure if this is in fact a faux pas, especially since the tux dates to the 40's, after the turn down collar was popularized. The one button peak lapel, I take it, is the most formal of black tie, does this mean white tie studs and a full dress shirt can work?

The set also came with a waistcoat, I'll get a picture up tomorrow now that I have Photobucket; but it's a shawl lapel, SB, belted full back, and patterned vest. It's low cut, and definitely not modern, but I'm not sure that it came with, or can be worn with, the other two pieces... And there are three self-faced buttons. I'm guessing this is not correct to wear, especially if I do wear a full dress shirt?

Thanks again for the input.

 

[Tomasso]

I think it loses something with the lack of placket and studs.

Many of my semi-formal shirts have a covered placket. It was at Charvet where I first learned of them and I quickly became a fan. Of course it is after all a matter of personal preference.

 

[sproily]

fluteplayer, would need to see those pictures

Thanks!

 

[Hap Hapablap]

This is my white tie kit as it stands at the moment:

The shoes aren't perfect but, to be honest, I can't justify buying a new pair of shoes just for the very few opportunities I'll get to wear this.

Amazing, as usual. Please put me in your will.

 

[fluteplayer07]

Here's the shots of it.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Tomasso]

[video=youtube;XOILKHmZBwc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XOILKHmZBwc[/video]

 

[fluteplayer07]

I know, I know, I know! lol

The best place for me to take the picture was on a nail in my living room that usually holds a frame. The wood hangars I normally have my suits on have too large of a curve for the shoulders to hang on the nail, so I switched it onto a wire hanger for the shots; after which it went back on its wood hanger and safely into the allotted space in my closet.

 

[Tomasso]

I'm just funnin' .....the rig looks just fine.

 

[Dr Kilroy]

I like the waistcoat!

Best regards, Dr

 

[sproily]

The waistcoat looks great! Old too!

 

[TCMfan25]

Here's the shots of it.

Thanks for the help!

I have a waistcoat just like that, except the buttons are not silk covered, perhaps pics soon... All I need is a 30's tux.

 

[fluteplayer07]

Thanks guys, so I'm guessing I'm not de-formalizing the tux by wearing the waistcoat? Or might it still be wiser to find a white waistcoat?

 

[draws]

Thanks guys, so I'm guessing I'm not de-formalizing the tux by wearing the waistcoat? Or might it still be wiser to find a white waistcoat?

Fluteplayer07, I have a similar 30s perioid tux and, although it might be ok to wear a white waistcoat with this tux, I do believe that this black waistcoat is quite nice as is. In order to gain a 30s/40s look, if that is your goal, I would suggest looking for a collarless stiff front bib tux shirt and a tall stand up wing collar. Add to that a self tie black bow tie and black studs and you have the finished look. The riguere for white waistcoat is the full white tie ensemble. This outfit would stand on its own merits as is with the above enhancements. Very nice start.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Waistcoats like your black one were sold with detachable buttons already inserted, but these buttons tended to be cheap 'prop' ones made of molded and painted bakelite or celluloid. The vest's purchaser was expected to replace the cheap buttons with waistcoat stud buttons from a formal stud set, usually made of onyx and silver (or gold or platinum).


Never wear white mother-of-pearl studs with ('20s-'30s era) black tie. Wear onyx, or smoky mother-of-pearl

 

[fluteplayer07]

I see now that the waistcoat buttons are affixed by a small metal bar, the 'hairclip' piece. So I remove these, and replace them with three waistcoat studs...

Thanks for all the help everyone!

 

[avedwards]

Do waistcoats have to fasten with studs? I have a black 30s one which has four horn buttons and I find it looks OK providing it is worn with a dinner jacket which has horn buttons rather than self faced buttons.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Do waistcoats have to fasten with studs? I have a black 30s one which has four horn buttons ....

Your black vintage waistcoat is probably British. Is it made of the same wool fabric (probably barathea wool) as the dinner jacket and trousers? This was very typical of British-made waistcoats of the era, whereas American-made vests tended to be made of figured silk or rayon. (Fluteplayer's is of rayon.)


And yes ... British black waistcoats tended to have black horn, bakelite or corozo buttons permanently affixed, while American silk or rayon vests had detachable buttons.

 

[TCMfan25]

But Marc, I have a patterned silk/rayon waistcoat just like flute's, however mine has black bakelite buttons!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

But Marc, I have a patterned silk/rayon waistcoat just like flute's, however mine has black bakelite buttons!

As I said, these waistcoats were sold with detachable bakelite buttons on them, but they were cheap 'prop' ones that the waistcoat's purchaser was meant to remove.

 

[TCMfan25]

They seem to on there pretty good.... are you to cut them off?