Formal Wear Primer

[Charlie Huang]

Silk ribbon laces on evening shoes.

I have been meaning to get some and finally managed to obtain a pair from Cleverley's. They have two versions of different widths, one narrow and one wide. They cost £20 a pair and they are not pure silk unfortunately. I suppose I should have shopped around but I don't think I'd have got them any cheaper if I went to Lobb's or Henry Maxwell (though they might actually do them in silk). Still, even though it is polyester ribbon they would wear better than silk so I'll allow this slip of principles for the time being...

I got the wide version initially but had to return them for replacement with the thinner version because the ends were too thick to go into the eyelets of my shoes.

IMHO, if you have a pair of evening shoes you ought to install ribbon laces just to add an air of sophistication to them and to mark them out from ordinary lace-ups.

 

[Richard Warren]

This link is from the 1928 Hickey Freeman catalog kindly posted by Twill from Baton Rouge:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w7RNfKRQS...0qmPk/s1600/Hickey+Freeman+Spring+1928+12.jpg

No mention of the shape of the lapel, number and position of vents, type of pocket, etc. Pearl with formal but not black tie (apparently news to some folks). No distinction as to number of stripes on trousers. Fewer studs (1 or 2) with formal (up to three). Soft black hat with dinner jacket. White vest with dinner jacket only in summer or in the South.

The only real difference from good modern practice might be the number of studs.

 

[dhermann1]

And they say that a derby hat is OK with a cutaway, and a black soft felt (i.e. black fedora) is OK with dinner jacket. No mention that trousers with all formal wear should not be cuffed. I would guess that was assumed. All in all, pretty flexible rules.

 

[Richard Warren]

It seems that the "rules" of a type of attire come into existence only after it falls out of common usage. Before that its just preference and taste.

 

[dhermann1]

Regarding shirts: I was just looking at a discussion on a seperate thread of a member's new tux. The issue of shirts came up. I bought a T.M. Lewin marsala front shirt to go with my white tie and tail outfit (that I may or may not ever have a really suitable occasion to wear at), and I'm having second thoughts. Here it is.
http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Wing-Colla...lShirts&prefn1=styleNumberCIMS&prefv1=Evening
There is an attached collar, which I understand is a little off. But what puzzles me is why they would include a French cuff, rather than the single cuff. The description does say that it's meant to be worn with a dinner suit, and NOT white tie. So I guess that would mean the standard peak lapel SB dinner jacket.
Any thoughts?
Also, how about this shirt from Darcy?
http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/evening-wear/marcella-front-wing-collar-evening-shirt-sh231.html

 

[Chasseur]

I have the Darcy collarless marcella shirt and its very nice. While purists would not support the attached collar, I think it would work well for you. I'd go with it over the TM Lewin.

 

[Charlie Huang]

The reason why one should use an attached wing collar because most often or not the collar is too narrow and the wings are floppy. If you must get an attached one make sure it is high enough and that you startch it properly so it is stiff otherwise it ends up rather flacid...

 

[dhermann1]

Don't wanna be flacid!!!!!!

 

[Tomasso]

Also, the stand on attached wings seem to be on the low side with OTR. Nothing worse than a skimpy wing collar.

 

[Tomasso]

Lobb's or Henry Maxwell (though they might actually do them in silk). Still, even though it is polyester ribbon they would wear better than silk so I'll allow this slip of principles for the time being...

The laces I got from Lobb were silk and did not wear well. The curled up and frayed after maybe twenty or thirty wearings. But they did send me a new pair when I told them.

 

[Charlie Huang]

The laces I got from Lobb were silk and did not wear well. The curled up and frayed after maybe twenty or thirty wearings. But they did send me a new pair when I told them.

How much were they?

 

[Richard Warren]

I'm wondering, where might one be able to purchase a shirt that uses three studs?

 

[Tomasso]

How much were they?

Don't know, they came with the shoes.

 

[dhermann1]

I just saw this image posted on another thread. It's one of my all time favorite images here. But my eye was caught by a detail I had missed before. Is the guy in the white DJ at the right wearing a BLUE SHIRT??? Check the cuff. It sure looks blue. This. to me, if it's true, is an earth shaking discovery. Maybe it's just the way the painting is shaded. Any thoughts???

 

[dhermann1]

I just found some really valuable information about the subject. Be sure to take in every word of this useful commentary.
http://www.strifeclothing.com/double-breasted-white-dinner-jacket/

 

[AntonAAK]

I just found some really valuable information about the subject. Be sure to take in every word of this useful commentary.
http://www.strifeclothing.com/double-breasted-white-dinner-jacket/

That is priceless...

 

[Midnight Blue]

I just saw this image posted on another thread. It's one of my all time favorite images here. But my eye was caught by a detail I had missed before. Is the guy in the white DJ at the right wearing a BLUE SHIRT??? Check the cuff. It sure looks blue. This. to me, if it's true, is an earth shaking discovery. Maybe it's just the way the painting is shaded. Any thoughts???

I wouldn't put too much stock in the illustration. It's just an ad for trouser zippers.

 

[dhermann1]

Where's Marc Chevalier when you need him???

 

[Qirrel]

I just saw this image posted on another thread. It's one of my all time favorite images here. But my eye was caught by a detail I had missed before. Is the guy in the white DJ at the right wearing a BLUE SHIRT??? Check the cuff. It sure looks blue. This. to me, if it's true, is an earth shaking discovery. Maybe it's just the way the painting is shaded. Any thoughts???

He's breaking the so called rules of formal wear. And he looks good. I like it.

 

[Guttersnipe]

Slightly off topic, but I wasn't sure where else to post this question. What is the correct attire to wear underneath academic regalia? I looked about online and it seems that the defacto mode is whatever is correct dress for said commencement ceremony. Any insights anyone?

The commencement mass/graduation ceremony at my university is held in a historic cathedral. The only guidelines we were given was "dark pants and 'appropriate' shoes"