Formal Wear Primer

[jamespowers]

Yes, I have seen that claim on this site but it's important that I get specific proof because I want to make sure that I can back up any statements I make on my own site.

This one is easy. A page from a men's suit catalog from 1927:

Regards,

J

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Yes, I have seen that claim on this site but it's important that I get specific proof because I want to make sure that I can back up any statements I make on my own site.

You can see '20s tuxes with notched lapels on eBay all the time. About two per month. Look:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1921-Dated-IDd-...8QQihZ015QQcategoryZ52383QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

.

 

[Midnight Blue]

I've been researching dinner jackets for about 2 minutes, and golden era texts (apparel arts, esquire, Esquire's Encyclopaedia, Men's Wear) are full of references to, and pictures of, notch lapel dinner jackets.

Esquire's encyclopaedia has this to say: "In 1923 the dinner jacket fr both undergraduates and alumni had rounded notch lapels and was worn with a wing collar, a black bow tie, and a white waistcoat [fashion institute of technology]"

Thanks. I've gone back to my Esquire, Apparel Arts and Esquire's Encyclopedia photocopies yet again and found an illustration of the rounded notch lapels in the latter.

Yes, the initial attitude towards the DJ was very interesting. Esquire regularly referred to black tie as "informal" right up to the late 30s.

 

[Midnight Blue]

This one is easy. A page from a men's suit catalog from 1927:

Perfect! It seems that like the word "tuxedo", notched lapels were more popular in menswear catalogues than in men's fashion magazines.

Would you happen to know the catalogue name?

 

[dnjan]

Question about Button Covers

Can somebody tell me about wearing a button cover (instead of a bow tie)?

Appropriate time of day?

Historical time period?

Other comments?

 

[Jovan]

Haven't seen any historical precedence for it, really. Seems like the formal wear equivalent of a bolo tie, to be honest.

 

[Midnight Blue]

Can somebody tell me about wearing a button cover (instead of a bow tie)?

Appropriate time of day?

Historical time period?

Other comments?

If you're talking about these then they originated in the 90s. Unless you were attending a prom or pro athlete awards ceremony they would not be appropriate at any time of the day I'm afraid.

 

[dnjan]

Thanks! I didn't realize they were a "new" invention.

Are there any acceptable alternatives to a bow tie (other than a four-in-hand) for evening wear?

 

[Jovan]

Since when is a necktie acceptable for evening wear? Maybe morning wear, but certainly never at night.

 

[Midnight Blue]

Are there any acceptable alternatives to a bow tie (other than a four-in-hand) for evening wear?

Do you have a specific concern with the bow tie?

 

[dnjan]

Just looking for something a bit different.
Plus, I wouldn't mind adding a more vintage flavour to a relatively modern (black) dinner jacket without spending a lot of money.

 

[Jovan]

There was a GQ article done a couple years back on "alternative" black tie, but it was just expensive versions of "fashionable" rental wear available now.

 

[Midnight Blue]

Just looking for something a bit different.
Plus, I wouldn't mind adding a more vintage flavour to a relatively modern (black) dinner jacket without spending a lot of money.

The white waistcoat that was a popular alternative up until the early 30s. This photo is from 1935 and you can find more pictures at http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=18866&page=2

For more vintage ideas you might also want to check out my site at www.blacktieguide.com.

 

[dnjan]

Thanks! I like the white (three-button?) waistcoat.

I guess I will have to invest in waistcoat studs now ...

 

[SwingsTheThing]

I'll start my posting career in the Lounge with a question.. a comment then a question.

I hate spread collars... BUT
To an event next month I am wearing a DB white dinner jacket w/ shawl collars, and a turn down collar shirt.. I am having a hard time finding an example of a picture with a guy in a point collar, wearing a bowtie.. for a semiformal look.. All I see is spread collars..

The question never jumped in my head until I had a VERY hard time finding a shirt with point collar, french cuffs, and no pocket.. all I can find are ones with spread collars..[huh]

Can someone point me in the right direction? No pun intended..

 

[Midnight Blue]

I am having a hard time finding an example of a picture with a guy in a point collar, wearing a bowtie.. for a semiformal look.. All I see is spread collars..

Can someone point me in the right direction? No pun intended..

I just finished researching a hundred years or so of formalwear in men's fashion periodicals and I didn't come across point collars until the 1990s when I noticed GQ started making frequent references to "straight collars". The picture here is an excerpt from a page I've posted for you at www.marshalltaylor.ca/Hosted_Images/1993shirts.jpg.

Peter

 

[SwingsTheThing]

well, that clears that up..

 

[Jovan]

<- *cough*

 

[Dormouse]

I seem to recall there was a miniature glass "vase" that was used to hold a Buttoniere and hold water to keep it fresh.

Sincerely,

The Hatter has one of those; it is really striking!

 

[Anthony Jordan]

Most usually (in my experience) flower holders/lapel vases are made of silver or white metal, oval in section, often with a clip inside to hold the flower in place, and designed to slip through the lapel buttonhole and sit behind the lapel.

Here is an example: