Footwear to go with our jackets

[3.14nche]

Green Kudu after a month.

 

[Harris HTM]

Green Kudu after a month.
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Great boots.

 

[oneterrifichog]

Pair of Willis & Geiger desert boots are great for summer wear and pretty comfortable too. These were made in the late 90's and early 2000's.

 

[Marc mndt]

Wearing my Clinch conrad boots in waxed horsehide suede.

I bought these on my recent trip to Tokyo and to be honest at first I was somewhat underwhelmed. Clinch boots aren't cheap, in Europe these boots go for €1930 link. Therefore my expectations were (very) high. I was expecting something specectular, materials and craftsmanship on a level I've never handled before. This is not that.

The horsehide suede is somewhat on the thin side (the calf suede on my Edward Greens is at least twice as thick) and therefore as a first impression the boots feel a bit light. However, the horsehide suede's nap is tighter / denser than calf suede and therefore it actually feels sturdier than calf suede. Perfectly suitable for a pair of fancy work boots like these.

As for finishing, they're ok but they won't win any prices. The suede shows a few minor blemishes, they didn't set the thread tension right when sewing the outer sole and the stitch lines on the uppers aren't as neat as what you see on a pair of Edward Greens, Vass or even Crockett and Jones hand grade.

These Graham boots are handwelted which is an objectively better construction technique than Goodyear welting: the inner soles are thicker without any cavities that have to be filled with cork. This however does not justify a €1k+ price as Vass Shoes or Enzo Bonafe's are also handwelted yet at a much lower price point.

Overall I'm quite happy with these boots, they look great and the last is very comfortable having decent arch support. I love the density of the horsehide suede and I think they will age beautifully. However, by no means would I pay their European retail price. €1930 for these shoes is absolutely ridiculous. I get it though; shipping costs, import fees, middle man costs. Those costs add up quickly.

I bought these boots directly from Brass Tokyo and paid about €1100 (tax free) and that's exactly how much I think they're worth.

 

[Tom71]

Wearing my Clinch conrad boots in waxed horsehide suede.

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I bought these on my recent trip to Tokyo and to be honest at first I was somewhat underwhelmed. Clinch boots aren't cheap, in Europe these boots go for €1930 link. Therefore my expectations were (very) high. I was expecting something specectular, materials and craftsmanship on a level I've never handled before. This is not that.

The horsehide suede is somewhat on the thin side (the calf suede on my Edward Greens is at least twice as thick) and therefore as a first impression the boots feel a bit light. However, the horsehide suede's nap is tighter / denser than calf suede and therefore it actually feels sturdier than calf suede. Perfectly suitable for a pair of fancy work boots like these.

As for finishing, they're ok but they won't win any prices. The suede shows a few minor blemishes, they didn't set the thread tension right when sewing the outer sole and the stitch lines on the uppers aren't as neat as what you see on a pair of Edward Greens, Vass or even Crockett and Jones hand grade.

View attachment 537025 View attachment 537023 View attachment 537024

These Graham boots are handwelted which is an objectively better construction technique than Goodyear welting: the inner soles are thicker without any cavities that have to be filled with cork. This however does not justify a €1k+ price as Vass Shoes or Enzo Bonafe's are also handwelted yet at a much lower price point.

Overall I'm quite happy with these boots, they look great and the last is very comfortable having decent arch support. I love the density of the horsehide suede and I think they will age beautifully. However, by no means would I pay their European retail price. €1930 for these shoes is absolutely ridiculous. I get it though; shipping costs, import fees, middle man costs. Those costs add up quickly.

I bought these boots directly from Brass Tokyo and paid about €1100 (tax free) and that's exactly how much I think they're worth.

Thanks for the very measured review, Marc!

I absolutely get what you’re saying re „good value but not good enough for import prices“. I have the same feeling when it comes to my Vibergs. They’re great boots, but not EUR 1.000 great. More like the EUR 500, a pair of Dundas cost. At the same time, I get the pricing for all the reasons you quoted. Somebody needs to get them here, and this costs.

I was wondering about Clinch for a while now, always looking at their engineers that are spectacular in the looks department, but more than EUR 2.000?
At the same time, how do you ask an owner who has just made that investment if it’s „worth it“, when that’s such a personal and to some extent arbitrary concept??

I feel that I now have a sound departure point for my further ponderings. I never regretted buying the Vibergs, but I wouldn’t get another pair for European prices either.

 

[Tom71]

Just arrived (two days door to door from Texas) and absolutely worth the money!
Rios of Mercedes, ordered back in March 2022.

 

[Marc mndt]

Just arrived (two days door to door from Texas) and absolutely worth the money!
Rios of Mercedes, ordered back in March 2022.

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I love everything about these boots! A bit more outspoken than your Fortela / Rios ropers, I like that.

I was wondering about Clinch for a while now, always looking at their engineers that are spectacular in the looks department, but more than EUR 2.000?
At the same time, how do you ask an owner who has just made that investment if it’s „worth it“, when that’s such a personal and to some extent arbitrary concept??

Also, getting Clinch boots' sizing right is impossible without having the possibility to try them on. Their lasts are very much shaped and therefore there isn't much wiggle room, either they fit perfectly or they don't fit at all. These Conrad boots are made on their MR last and are a size 9 Clinch which is supposed to be size 8 US. That doesn't make any sense because I wear a size 42 (=US 9) from pretty much every European maker. I also tried a pair of boots from their CN last, I needed to go up a full size and still they were a challenge to get on.

If you're looking for alternatives I can highly recommend Attractions lot 444 (I own a pair myself). They have a nice sleek shape, soft toes, nice and thick horsebutt leather and they're about half the price of a pair of Clinch engineers.

Slightly more expensive than Attractions but still great price : quality ratio are Rolling dub trio engineers.

Slightly different style but definitely worth looking into: black sign aviator boots (Made by skoob, one of the smaller Japanese makers, not yet hyped )

Or the Skoob Wander Engineers

 

[Tom71]

I love everything about these boots! A bit more outspoken than your Fortela / Rios ropers, I like that.


Also, getting Clinch boots' sizing right is impossible without having the possibility to try them on. Their lasts are very much shaped and therefore there isn't much wiggle room, either they fit perfectly or they don't fit at all. These Conrad boots are made on their MR last and are a size 9 Clinch which is supposed to be size 8 US. That doesn't make any sense because I wear a size 42 (=US 9) from pretty much every European maker. I also tried a pair of boots from their CN last, I needed to go up a full size and still they were a challenge to get on.

If you're looking for alternatives I can highly recommend Attractions lot 444 (I own a pair myself). They have a nice sleek shape, soft toes, nice and thick horsebutt leather and they're about half the price of a pair of Clinch engineers.

Slightly more expensive than Attractions but still great price : quality ratio are Rolling dub trio engineers.

Slightly different style but definitely worth looking into: black sign aviator boots (Made by skoob, one of the smaller Japanese makers, not yet hyped )

Or the Skoob Wander Engineers

Thanks, Marc! All attractive suggestions!

I won’t invest any big money without seeing Clinch in person (Kentaurus in Cologne stocks them for some time now in limited quantities).

All that said, the most likely route for me is simply a new pair of „Mr. Lou‘s“ in natural or brown HH. They fit me perfectly and are an excellent bang on the buck.

 

[Tom71]

I love everything about these boots! A bit more outspoken than your Fortela / Rios ropers, I like that.


Also, getting Clinch boots' sizing right is impossible without having the possibility to try them on. Their lasts are very much shaped and therefore there isn't much wiggle room, either they fit perfectly or they don't fit at all. These Conrad boots are made on their MR last and are a size 9 Clinch which is supposed to be size 8 US. That doesn't make any sense because I wear a size 42 (=US 9) from pretty much every European maker. I also tried a pair of boots from their CN last, I needed to go up a full size and still they were a challenge to get on.

If you're looking for alternatives I can highly recommend Attractions lot 444 (I own a pair myself). They have a nice sleek shape, soft toes, nice and thick horsebutt leather and they're about half the price of a pair of Clinch engineers.

Slightly more expensive than Attractions but still great price : quality ratio are Rolling dub trio engineers.

Slightly different style but definitely worth looking into: black sign aviator boots (Made by skoob, one of the smaller Japanese makers, not yet hyped )

Or the Skoob Wander Engineers

Yepp, the Rios are pretty loud.

Fit is pretty decent, but I need to get used to the massive heel! Feels like I am leaning forward all the time. Guess, I need a horse. Or a bike.

 

[Marc mndt]

Yepp, the Rios are pretty loud.

Fit is pretty decent, but I need to get used to the massive heel! Feels like I am leaning forward all the time. Guess, I need a horse. Or a bike.

Or...kill two birds with one stone.

 

[Tom71]

Nice detail. „Made in Texas“.

Massive heel. Elongated to enable the use of a boot-jack. My wife disapproves…

 

[Fifty150]

Or...kill two birds with one stone.

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[dudewuttheheck]

Love the detailed review @Marc mndt . It'd sad to see Clinch regress so much, but I've seen too many examples of their backside. My older pairs are far superior. They lost the guy who did the uppers on my two custom pairs from 2017 and the guy who used to do the hand welting too at the very least.

The designs are still incredible, but the quality isn't what it used to be. My newer engineers from 2021 are not this bad, but they're not as good as the older models from 2017 and 2015 I own/owned.

 

[red devil]

Love the detailed review @Marc mndt . It'd sad to see Clinch regress so much, but I've seen too many examples of their backside. My older pairs are far superior. They lost the guy who did the uppers on my two custom pairs from 2017 and the guy who used to do the hand welting too at the very least.

The designs are still incredible, but the quality isn't what it used to be. My newer engineers from 2021 are not this bad, but they're not as good as the older models from 2017 and 2015 I own/owned.

One of their guys went to Rolling Dub Trio. He was the guy who took my order, very friendly chap.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

One of their guys went to Rolling Dub Trio. He was the guy who took my order, very friendly chap.

That's at least a third guy gone then because neither of the two guys I mentioned went there. One is Masa and he does boot repairs in Germany now and the other is now doing Aristocrat and Co.

 

[Marc mndt]

One of their guys went to Rolling Dub Trio.

I visited Rolling Dub's (the boots shop) showroom and was impressed by the craftsmanship. Tried on a pair of jodhpurs which were great.

When I told the guy "I'll take them" he started to laugh. He said "order now (via one of their stockist, they don't deal with customers directly), delivery June 2024".

 

[red devil]

I visited Rolling Dub's (the boots shop) showroom and was impressed by the craftsmanship. Tried on a pair of jodhpurs which were great.

When I told the guy "I'll take them" he started to laugh. He said "order now (via one of their stockist, they don't deal with customers directly), delivery June 2024".

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Yeah, I was never at the right time to get one of their boots... so I got a pair of natural slippers. Most used leather footwear I own lol

I use it indoors only.

 

[Tom71]

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There you go. Got myself a horse overnight to match the Rio‘s. Bet you thought, I was joking…

 

[AeroFan_07]

^^ One of the best photos on FL - in my opinion anyway!

Well, I just fished an offer on a newly resoled/bottomed pair of Chippewa Engineers, and it was accepted!!

So I should soon see these...

 

[Bamaboots]

Massive heel. Elongated to enable the use of a boot-jack.

Good looking boots. That's actually called a spur shelf or ledge. Keeps them from slipping off of the heel. Get yourself a pair of these to wear around and wait for the wife's response. The ledge is also good to keep long jeans from dragging the ground and cuts down on floorboard burn to the heel counter from using a vehicle accelerator.