Footwear to go with our jackets

[Pandemic]

I was just thinking today how I’d like a tough (not dressy) side-zip boot with a woodsman or Cuban heel.

 

[Edward]

Spotted these on Vinted a couple of weeks ago, had to have them. Again, special thanks to @Marc mndt for going extreme lengths to get 'em for me - Actually risked his life for this pair XD. One of those cases when you see something you actually like, even though it's not something you're supposed to like. Like, few years back, I'd never consider wearing anything other but engineer boots, even though deep down I always knew they're just wellies with straps.
Anyway, I was after a good pair of Chelsea's for a long while but never imagined Prada - or MiuMiu - would pull it off so perfectly. The shape, leather, that heel; Everything.

I only wish I had two pairs so I don't need to worry about wearing one out.

I have a pair something like this by Underground England. Bought nearly 20 years ago exclusively for my Riff Raff costume. Last worn a few years ago when I went to a 40th birthday party as Dave Vanian in his eighties goth era. Mine are black suede. Too tight on me now, really should originally have gone a size up.

If I am not mistaken Chelsea boots with cuban heels became popular when the Beatles started wearing them.
View attachment 325974

Yeah, Beatle boots. They're often also referred to as a Teddy Boy thing, though afaik they were more of a 70s revivalist thing rather than worn by real, 50s Teds.

I was just thinking today how I’d like a tough (not dressy) side-zip boot with a woodsman or Cuban heel.

Underground England do one, their 'Marlon' model. https://underground-england.com/product-category/footwear/winklepickers/ Quite a range of colours, though that heel looks well high if you're not used to it.

 

[Monitor]

@Edward , what's the quality on these Underground shoes? I like one model in particular but Grinders does something similar that I know is good.

 

[ABCD]

@Monitor you should show us your new USA made Frye's

 

[Harris HTM]

@Edward , what's the quality on these Underground shoes? I like one model in particular but Grinders does something similar that I know is good.

I own a pair of Underground steel toe, 14 eyelets: https://underground-england.com/pro...ndy-rub-off-leather-single-sole-custom-order/
I bought them in 2009 and worn them a lot for many-many years, I've been to countless gigs and festivals on them.
Quality wise: the sole, though it doesn't seem to be goodyear or blake welted (it is riveted and screwed, probably this makes resoling impossible), has sustained zero damage or visible wear. The leather: the first 2 weeks I though I was wearing steel pipes, almost impossible to bend the ankles. It broke in afterwards. Where bended the top shiny layer worn off and the material below seems cracked.
If I was after this style, I'd buy them again.

 

[Pandemic]

Well that certainly takes me back - winklepicker shoes and boots were all the rage with Mods, Goths and New Romantics back in the late 80s where I lived.

What I was thinking of was something more like a short engineer or packer boot sans buckle, but with a narrow shaft and zip.

I’ve seen a few seventies western boots like this, but they still have a thinner leather, dressier vibe with a thin sole.

 

[Edward]

@Edward , what's the quality on these Underground shoes? I like one model in particular but Grinders does something similar that I know is good.

i've only had that one pair of Undergrounds, but they took all the abuse a regular Rocky Horror outing can throw at them on multiple occasions.

@Monitor you should show us your new USA made Frye's

Well that certainly takes me back - winklepicker shoes and boots were all the rage with Mods, Goths and New Romantics back in the late 80s where I lived.

What I was thinking of was something more like a short engineer or packer boot sans buckle, but with a narrow shaft and zip.

I’ve seen a few seventies western boots like this, but they still have a thinner leather, dressier vibe with a thin sole.

I get what you mean, don't seem to be many like that about, though possibly:

https://tblon.com/products/phoenix-...9E0oRjfBX3d_0IUU3_yAxOabUfwC9c_saAg89EALw_wcB

A lot of bike boots are cursed with obvious logos or a very matte finish that wouldn't look so tidy, though...

https://www.fc-moto.de/epages/fcm.s...ol-Boot/SubProducts/Kochmann-Patrol-Boot-0001

https://www.fc-moto.de/epages/fcm.s...rbo-Boot/SubProducts/Kochmann-Turbo-Boot-0004

https://www.fc-moto.de/epages/fcm.s...ducts/Stylmartin-Oxford-Waterproof-Boots-0004

These still have buckles, if less obvious due to location, and a bit of the Lewis vibe:

https://www.fc-moto.de/epages/fcm.s...Boot/SubProducts/Kochmann-Commander-Boot-0005

If it's something dressier but still rugged you're after, Helstons do a wide range of boots like this:

https://www.fc-moto.de/epages/fcm.s...ty-Boots/SubProducts/Helstons-City-Boots-0018

Still lace-up, but they have the convenience of the side zip and definitely look dressier than any other the other options.

 

[Edward]

Well that certainly takes me back - winklepicker shoes and boots were all the rage with Mods, Goths and New Romantics back in the late 80s where I lived.

What I was thinking of was something more like a short engineer or packer boot sans buckle, but with a narrow shaft and zip.

I’ve seen a few seventies western boots like this, but they still have a thinner leather, dressier vibe with a thin sole.

Oh, now, or this...https://www.fc-moto.de/epages/fcm.s...n,+Size+42&utm_campaign=Criteo_GB&iccm=CRI_GB

If links doesn't work, Ixon Hoxtone motorcycle boots - FC Moto currently has them at over 40% off, around GBP85.

I'm not familiar with the brand, but the spec sounds good, and at that price they are likely to be better than 'street boots' for the same money in my experience.

 

[Ayeteael]

My Onderhouds after a month of solid wear in the rotation (2-3xs per week).

 

[HIGHQUALITYLOWKEY]

Carl Murawski interview with Gabbard the man behind Kreosote Boots...Formerly known as MYG Handmade. Probably...actually without a doubt the best boot maker operating in North America. I believe our buddy @dudewuttheheck knows him. Not sure on what level or how close but I do believe they’ve interacted a bit. His boots are crazy expensive, no two ways about that. Start at 1,000 and go up. But he literally does everything that can be done by hand; by hand. Uses old school techniques and equipment; and makes some of the meanest, angriest boots on the market using only the best materials on the market. So worth it? Eye of the beholder. The best boot maker in the world? I think dude would argue White Kloud haha. But certainly as I said he’s the best in NA and considered one of the best of the world. About to sit down for 50mins and give this a watch myself.

Thank you for posting this, it was a lot of fun to chat with Gabbard. He's a good guy and a true artist. One of the few bootmakers in the USA still making things the old way. He and Brian the Bootmaker are a rare breed.

 

[Monitor]

@Harris HTM , huh! Good to know. But that's exactly how leather on Marten's will crack, though. No clue why but I've seen it happen to so many boots like that. . . Also, I keep forgetting that with the UK out of EU, getting any of these fine boots is now a lot pricier than it used to be. I'll pick up just one more pair but I gotta be careful which.

Would really like to see their Winklepickers.

There's also this Club Cubano maker and their Lennon's look really badass!
https://www.shuperb.co.uk/club-cubano-lennon-mens-leather-winklepicker-cuban-heel-boots-black-p15440
But again, not sure what to expect. . .

@Edward , Thomas Bird Harness' looks great! Sharp af. Pricey, tho but nothing worse than any Red Wings and at least they won't put you to sleep with utter boredom.

There's some stunning looking footwear out there. I ought to really upgrade my boot game. It's at least something I can wear whole year.

 

[Harris HTM]

It's at least something I can wear whole year.

and it's 100% independent of weight gain/loss. This means you can invest more on a nice pair of shoes than on a jacket. Don't go down that rabbit hole, I did so in order to fight my jacket addiction and ended up spending more on footwear.

 

[Psant25]

Little update on my Honcho boots. They replaced the heels and sent back right away. I was not overly impressed at the fact there was a bunch of dust on and in the boot and in the box. (assuming from sanding the heels). Also, the inside of one boot they removed the leather heel pad inside and there was nothing there and it shows all the nails.

The little leather heel pad they use is pretty thing and ****py so I ripped them all out. I bought some 3-4 oz nice hermann oak leather from amazon and glued in my own heel pads that go about halfway up and i cut it at an angle similar to what is in my whites boots.

For 350 bucks i think it is still a great usa made all leather boot all cxl horse. The finish work could be improved. Some of the leather is creased/grainy and I would have preferred they cut the leather different but it is saving cost to use it. The wrinkle pieces are mainly on the shafts and at least one toe is not horribly creased/grainy compared to another.

i am going with rios of Mercedes on my next boots working out my details now. Price is over 2x the honchos but finishing should be better. Going with black waxed leather with a matte finish. PR toe, 3 heel, 12 inch height, reduced shaft circumference, and a cool pattern see pic. About 4-5 month wait yeesh. Should work well with my incoming langlitz Columbia and my black bike

 

[Edward]

@Edward , Thomas Bird Harness' looks great! Sharp af. Pricey, tho but nothing worse than any Red Wings and at least they won't put you to sleep with utter boredom.

In that vein, you might also like a lot of Jeffrey West's boots as well. I'd consider a pair of their Troubadors, even if a bit 'modern' for me, being patterned after stuff that was hip in the sixties...

 

[Hobbes1]

Frye prison boots. These are comfortable and enjoyable to wear.

 

[Ole K. Vik]

Horsehide boots from Onderhoud handmade to go with Fine creek leathers Eric jacket...

 

[Psant25]

Horsehide boots from Onderhoud handmade to go with Fine creek leathers Eric jacket... View attachment 326779

Great jacket, boots, and watch !

 

[Mysteryo]

70’s Santa Rosa engineer boots to match my Schott X RRL d pocket jacket.

 

[dannyk]

70’s Santa Rosa engineer boots to match my Schott X RRL d pocket jacket.

View attachment 327081 View attachment 327082

Like two months ago these absolutely incredible Santa Rosa engineers were on eBay. They were going for 70. Someone clearly didn’t know what they had. I think they went for like 110. But I was in a battle and lost on literally the last second. Oh well, someone got the deal of a lifetime. Yours look great as well. Really makes the outfit.

EDIT: I realize that might not have been clear. They were listed at 70, but ended up selling for 110. I got in a bid of 105, and quite literally last .00000001 someone put up 110 and I lost out. High quality Santa Rosas can go for 500-900. 110 would have been a steal. Whoever got them is a lucky, lucky sob.

 

[Monitor]

Diesel jeans and MiuMiu's for Prada. Definitely 2/10 on a Rugged Workwear scale.