Footwear to go with our jackets

[Blackadder]

I wouldn't say meermin and Carmina are in the same league. Meermins look great in their advertising but not so much in real life. The leather looks dull and every single pair I had in hands was flawed in one way or the other (I visited their Paris store).
Carminas are way better. Also pricier.

Thanks for the advice. I have not handled Carmina for years. I just remember I was not impressed especially with their shell cordovan. But then I have never handled any Meermin. Looking at the Carmina website just now, it seems they did change the bottom sole construction and the bottom sole alone looks very top tier now.

 

[Fonzie]

You can’t go wrong with classic RM Williams, great quality, tradition and lots of styles. Plus they will last a lifetime if treated properly.
I just bought some Gardener Chelsea boot in Vesta leather and I’m loving them, perfect balance between work and dress style (pics to come soon).

I haven’t handled many other brands but in my limited experience, RM’s are a tier above Red Wings.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Thanks!
There are some updated photos in my two year review of them here: https://almostvintagestyle.com/2020...-the-best-boots-in-the-world-two-year-review/

Still the best things I own in my closet. Getting some shell ones soon from him...

Exceptionally well written review, Jake.
I enjoyed overviewing your work. It’s obvious your passion is expressed so well in your posts here on the Lounge but greater still on your web presence.
Thank you for sharing so much here of what many of us think we are passionate for. I am but a child in the scheme of things.
Thank you
B

 

[powerserge]

As far as I know, Meermin are on the lower end overall. Is that more or less true?
I have seen a Viberg engineer a few years ago and it looked good.
Benzein, I have seen mentionned here, I would suspect, they would have a more varied selection of leathers? Any idea on their prices?

I would take it that Viberg, RM Williams and Benzein are in a similar level in terms of construction?

I too like the engineers that come out from Viberg especially when they're on the 2005 last instead of the 2050, but they don't run them all the often anymore.

With Benzein you are looking to pay around 4-450 USD and leathers to choose from Horween, Shinki, CF Stead, Maryam, and Cloe. It is MTO and I believe turnaround right now is about 4 months.

Viberg, RM Williams and Benzein are work boots, usually thick leather without lining and has thicker work/all weather soles.
Meermin is a lower price dress shoes brand like Carmina, Loake, Barker and Grenson etc. Dress shoes almost always never use soft leather (except shell) like calfskin, dress shoe sole and have lining.
Let's just put it this way, if you don't wanna spend the money and you don't require the quality of a pair of Crockett and Jones, you can turn to Meermin. I have never handled RM Williams and Benzein so I would not know how good they are.

Gotta disagree with you there. While Viberg does make work boots they do have more streamlined models that can easily be dressed up. They're chelsea and jodhpur are slightly on the more rugged side but by no means look like work boots. Same goes for RM, they have models that are more work oriented but also have sleeker models w/ pointer lasts and leather soles. Lastly for Benzein, they are a mostly a MTO brand and can customize they're models to fit a dressier aesthics. Each brands have a wide selection of leathers and all come in with lining and the choice of a sole.

 

[Psant25]

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I haven’t handled many other brands but in my limited experience, RM’s are a tier above Red Wings.

Have not seen them with a full welt what model are those and what leather? I want to get a pair next time around. I have too much incoming now lol

 

[Blackadder]

I too like the engineers that come out from Viberg especially when they're on the 2005 last instead of the 2050, but they don't run them all the often anymore.

With Benzein you are looking to pay around 4-450 USD and leathers to choose from Horween, Shinki, CF Stead, Maryam, and Cloe. It is MTO and I believe turnaround right now is about 4 months.

Gotta disagree with you there. While Viberg does make work boots they do have more streamlined models that can easily be dressed up. They're chelsea and jodhpur are slightly on the more rugged side but by no means look like work boots. Same goes for RM, they have models that are more work oriented but also have sleeker models w/ pointer lasts and leather soles. Lastly for Benzein, they are a mostly a MTO brand and can customize they're models to fit a dressier aesthics. Each brands have a wide selection of leathers and all come in with lining and the choice of a sole.

Aren't we talking specifically about chelsea boots and the way they made those chelsea boots is the same way they make their work boots with same materials and the same work boots workmanship while Meermin is dress boots workmanship. Leather sole is not a best indicator because most cowboy boots have leather soles (oh well some living in the States would consider cowboy boots dress shoes and a few of the makers do make dress shoes quality cowboy boots).
It is those extra work on the channel, welt and other tiny details that separate them. Work boot companies dispense with those procedures and rightly so because they are making work boots and those procedures are mostly for cosmetics.
I have not seen those types of extra procedures in my Viberg, White's or Wesco. The RM posted by Fonzie looks much better. I have not handled any RM before and out of the "work boots" style brands I have ever handled, the only brand I have seen that can come to the level of dress shoes is Clinch.
Try putting a pair of Viberg cap toe next to a pair of Tricker's cap toe, if you can't see the difference then so be it.

 

[Fonzie]

Have not seen them with a full welt what model are those and what leather? I want to get a pair next time around. I have too much incoming now lol

RM Williams Gardener Full Welt Vesta Italian leather. A special edition or seasonal model, not available at the moment, but the current line up of RM’s it’s pretty good in variety. Head to its website.

 

[Psant25]

RM Williams Gardener Full Welt Vesta Italian leather. A special edition or seasonal model, not available at the moment, but the current line up of RM’s it’s pretty good in variety. Head to its website.

Ok yeah they look really nice. Do you prefer the gardener model? I think that has the round toe vs the squared toe on the craftsman. I like them both and might try the greasy kip leather. Might be a minute cuz I have two custom cowboy boots in production

 

[Fonzie]

Ok yeah they look really nice. Do you prefer the gardener model? I think that has the round toe vs the squared toe on the craftsman. I like them both and might try the greasy kip leather. Might be a minute cuz I have two custom cowboy boots in production

I have both the Gardener (round toe) and the Craftsman (chiseled square toe) models and find the round toe more versatile, the square is a bit too dressy IMO. I’ll be getting the gardener in black kip at some stage too.

 

[powerserge]

Aren't we talking specifically about chelsea boots and the way they made those chelsea boots is the same way they make their work boots with same materials and the same work boots workmanship while Meermin is dress boots workmanship. Leather sole is not a best indicator because most cowboy boots have leather soles (oh well some living in the States would consider cowboy boots dress shoes and a few of the makers do make dress shoes quality cowboy boots).
It is those extra work on the channel, welt and other tiny details that separate them. Work boot companies dispense with those procedures and rightly so because they are making work boots and those procedures are mostly for cosmetics.
I have not seen those types of extra procedures in my Viberg, White's or Wesco. The RM posted by Fonzie looks much better. I have not handled any RM before and out of the "work boots" style brands I have ever handled, the only brand I have seen that can come to the level of dress shoes is Clinch.
Try putting a pair of Viberg cap toe next to a pair of Tricker's cap toe, if you can't see the difference then so be it.

I think Viberg is different from White's/Wesco and find them to be more versatile and less planted in just work oriented boots. I believe that's what makes them unique and different from other PNW makers and they are pushing themselves in a different direction too. Now I do agree that they may pass on certain details that would be found on a higher end dress shoe/boot brand, but I don't think even Meermin/Carmina are employing those especially at that price point. You'll start seeing the detail and close to perfect stitching with like brands like Edward Green or Enzo Bonafe.
Now leather soles may not be the best indicator but in the dress market you're way more likely to see leather soles than a rubber sole, and it looks nicer and more formal.
These Vibergs that I included a picture of are an example of them not just being an ordinary work boot with no detail. The Shelby boot from Viberg shows the range that a company can have to making boots like that and also making forest firefighting boots as well.
I'll agree with you about Clinch, they make fantastic boots and are works of art. They're small scale and output allows them to give each boot more attention and leads to a better finished product. This is very different from a lot of other boots companies which work at a much larger scale and put out 10x the amount that Clinch does. It doesn't makes sense to compare Clinch to most other boot companies because they don't do the same thing and don't have the same intentions either.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Exceptionally well written review, Jake.
I enjoyed overviewing your work. It’s obvious your passion is expressed so well in your posts here on the Lounge but greater still on your web presence.
Thank you for sharing so much here of what many of us think we are passionate for. I am but a child in the scheme of things.
Thank you
B

Thanks for the extremely kind words! I really appreciate that.

 

[Jin431]

Any of the leathers that come from the Badalassi tannery are just to die for, and it seems like even brands like Grantstone are starting to use it. You've got a nice collection of boots there with a preference for lace to toes/monkey boots. What are thoughts on the monkey boots from Flame Panda? His monkey boot and the Sagara's you have are my favorite monkey boots out now.

I have definitely thought about get another pair in the same last because of the fit. He actually has the TDD-02 model which is the derby version on my boot with a few tweaks, might be purchasing a pair of those this year hopefully in a shell cordovan from Maryam

Those Role Club's are also a great pattern for lace to toes but I think you can't go wrong either way. The wait is a bit much to be fair, and the benefit for not going through is you're sitting around 2 years waiting for your boots to come in lol


For chelsea boots I prefer them to be a wholecut pattern, and I think the seam on the side doesn't look as nice comparatively. There's not too many brands that do it but the ones that I know are Rm Williams, Viberg, Meermin, and Benzein.

Thank you. Yes, I have two badalassi boots (both in lace to toe style, didn't notice that before) and they definitely feel special to wear. I do like my service boots as well, but the 2 lace to toe/monkey boots I own are my preferred footwear at this time.

FP does make great looking monkey boots. I prefer the Flame Panda 102 last (lace to toe boots), it reminds me of the clutch boots that I also like. I might get them later on, because I want to get a real black monkey boots as well.

Alright that's going to be a cool one to see, plus the fact that you know it will fit you well will not be so worrisome especially with shell cordovan not being so forgiving as other Leathers.

 

[powerserge]

Thank you. Yes, I have two badalassi boots (both in lace to toe style, didn't notice that before) and they definitely feel special to wear. I do like my service boots as well, but the 2 lace to toe/monkey boots I own are my preferred footwear at this time.

FP does make great looking monkey boots. I prefer the Flame Panda 102 last (lace to toe boots), it reminds me of the clutch boots that I also like. I might get them later on, because I want to get a real black monkey boots as well.

Alright that's going to be a cool one to see, plus the fact that you know it will fit you well will not be so worrisome especially with shell cordovan not being so forgiving as other Leathers.

Are you finding something about the lace to toe/monkey boots fitting your feet better or more of a preference in a model?

I always forget about that one, seems like its not as popular as 131 monkey boot and his other models. It definitely looks similar to the offering by Clinch and can imagine just as nice if not better. What I like about the 102 is it seems like it might be easier to wear compared to the bulkier 131.

 

[Harris HTM]

Meermin's are indeed on the low end of goodyear welted dress shoes. I own a couple of pairs of them, they are great for what you pay for and it's a great way to try a style you've never tried before without having to spend 500 pounds on a better one, while still getting a quality pair.
Regarding the chelsea boots: the RM's are great shoes however a bit bulkier than dress shoes; I would recommend Carlos Santos chelsea boots, I'll try to find some photo's.
Or C&J's, Carmina's, etc, at a higher price tag.
If you're more into smart casual maybe then you could try Solovair's. The same as the good old made in the UK dr. Martens - avoid the modern Martens.
Edit: link to Carlos Santos chelsea:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/footwear-to-go-with-our-jackets.91962/page-47#post-2692467

 

[red devil]

Thanks for all the detailed info! I have yet much to learn in shoes

For this pair, I am looking for something a bit less dressy that I can wear with almost anything. Basically the to go shoe when you have to go out quickly - Hence why I am opting for a chelsea. They are easy to slip in.

I had thought of getting the Rolling Dub Trio a few years ago, but they never seemed to have the sample for my size in their main shop and I did not want to order blindly. At some point they did have a really cool looking kudu version.

Edit: typo

 

[Jin431]

Are you finding something about the lace to toe/monkey boots fitting your feet better or more of a preference in a model?

I always forget about that one, seems like its not as popular as 131 monkey boot and his other models. It definitely looks similar to the offering by Clinch and can imagine just as nice if not better. What I like about the 102 is it seems like it might be easier to wear compared to the bulkier 131.

Feels just like wearing a grown up version of a chuck taylor to me so I feel more comfortable wearing them and feels more of a laid back attire. Also both lace to toe styles I have fit me so well, and it also holds my feet in place better. When I wear service boots it feels a little bit more purposeful as opposed to the lace to toe boots.

Yes, I like the slimmer profile of the 102 last compared to the more robust 131. It does feel like it's easier to wear especially if you go with a sleeker outsoles.

Also I'll be receiving my 2 pairs of Benzein Chelsea boots this coming week. Hope they fit me better than my last order from them.

 

[Blackadder]

I think Viberg is different from White's/Wesco and find them to be more versatile and less planted in just work oriented boots. I believe that's what makes them unique and different from other PNW makers and they are pushing themselves in a different direction too. Now I do agree that they may pass on certain details that would be found on a higher end dress shoe/boot brand, but I don't think even Meermin/Carmina are employing those especially at that price point. You'll start seeing the detail and close to perfect stitching with like brands like Edward Green or Enzo Bonafe.
Now leather soles may not be the best indicator but in the dress market you're way more likely to see leather soles than a rubber sole, and it looks nicer and more formal.
These Vibergs that I included a picture of are an example of them not just being an ordinary work boot with no detail. The Shelby boot from Viberg shows the range that a company can have to making boots like that and also making forest firefighting boots as well.
I'll agree with you about Clinch, they make fantastic boots and are works of art. They're small scale and output allows them to give each boot more attention and leads to a better finished product. This is very different from a lot of other boots companies which work at a much larger scale and put out 10x the amount that Clinch does. It doesn't makes sense to compare Clinch to most other boot companies because they don't do the same thing and don't have the same intentions either.

This is the only type of Vibergs I find on the internet to have proper open channel.
https://uptherestore.com/products/slipper-cf-stead-earth-calf-suede

I am not saying they cannot do it but they do dispense with it. These are simple handcraft procedures with simple tools. They are not willing to do it and that they are not doing it period and I can sort of understand.
As to proper open channel and rail markings on welt, you can find them on not just high end dress shoes. My $200 good year welt made in god knows where Johnston & Murphy has them, both open channel and the rail mark on welt.
https://www.johnstonmurphy.com/aldr...356_color=Black Smooth Calfskin#sz=23&start=1
You can see from picture on Meermin and Carmina websites that they have closed channels and markings on welt. Clinch chukka boots are also closed channel. As to steady, precise stitching, they are not that uncommon in dress shoes after all it just requires a little more attention and takes a bit more time.
A pair of Viberg cap toe (work boots heritage) costs around the same if not more than a pair of Tricker's cap toe (outdoor boots heritage) when Tricker's craftsmanship even to the untrained eyes is so much more sophisticated. I still buy work boots brands because Tricker's would not offer Horween CXL leather, engineer boots (I have two pairs of Viberg engineer) or some other rugged style and not because of work boot brands' workmanship. But for those "semi-dress" design? Lets just say I would not buy Viberg's service boots while I got a pair of suede cap toe Alden for around the same price.
It is of course different if one intends to work in those boots.

 

[dannyk]

One pair of Parkhursts in the Allen model in the Horween Natural Dublin. I own two pairs. One in size 9 that are a bit big and one in 8.5 that fit perfect. Just listed these the size 9s in the classifieds. Posting here since I mentioned them a few posts back. Dublin is a veg-tan that focuses on allowing the grain and scarring in the hide to come out. These definitely have grain for days and a nick here or there but not in a large or ugly manner. I like them a lot. Hence I bought the 8.5s to get them in a size that fits. Super comfy. My most comfortable shoes in these more traditional service boot style.

 

[Pandemic]

Ok yeah they look really nice. Do you prefer the gardener model? I think that has the round toe vs the squared toe on the craftsman. I like them both and might try the greasy kip leather. Might be a minute cuz I have two custom cowboy boots in production

Check out the Lachlan - same kip leather and thicker sole as on the Gardener, but on the Craftsman last with the more refined chisel toe. By far my favorite of all my chelsea boots.

 

[cellini]

Received these custom engineers from Route One Korea today