Footwear to go with our jackets

[cellini]

Love it! Congrats! is that an oiled dark brown horsebutt? The outsoles look fantasti. Gotta look up Shonan

Thanks!

Thats a heavyweight horsebutt in choco. Thats what Shinki used to call that dark brown color. But I am not sure it has the same finish as the oiled horsebutt we are seeing on the market. I bought the leather 2 years ago and it was 5mm thick before I had it split for making the boots.

The topy is from Arakawa Sangyo. Shonan is a renowned tannery in himeji that produces only a small variety of leather unlike shinki and tochigi. The insoles, outsoles and stiffeners are their shoulder and bend.

 

[Jin431]

Thanks!

Thats a heavyweight horsebutt in choco. Thats what Shinki used to call that dark brown color. But I am not sure it has the same finish as the oiled horsebutt we are seeing on the market. I bought the leather 2 years ago and it was 5mm thick before I had it split for making the boots.

The topy is from Arakawa Sangyo. Shonan is a renowned tannery in himeji that produces only a small variety of leather unlike shinki and tochigi. The insoles, outsoles and stiffeners are their shoulder and bend.

Wow you sat on that wonderful leather for 2 whole years and the project really came out well. That's some nice graining on them bad boys you got there.

Got it, never did see those topy before and they really complete the look. What a handsome pair of boots. Noted on Shonan info, this is the first I heard of them but seems like another gem. So what does Shonan specializes in?deerskin?

I'm guessing you supplied the hardware too? Are those universal YKK?

 

[cellini]

Wow you sat on that wonderful leather for 2 whole years and the project really came out well. That's some nice graining on them bad boys you got there.

Got it, never did see those topy before and they really complete the look. What a handsome pair of boots. Noted on Shonan info, this is the first I heard of them but seems like another gem. So what does Shonan specializes in?deerskin?

I'm guessing you supplied the hardware too? Are those universal YKK?

Thanks!

Fujioka Deer makes only deerskin. Many repro clothing makers and silversmiths use their leather for different purposes. Y2 and FW use their skin for making jackets, goros uses it for making deerskin laces and deerskin bags etc...

Shonan specializes in steer just like tochigi, and has been around for a long time. Maybe they are more well known to the leather craft community than the vintage clothing and boot community. Their glazed bend looks quite nice and can be a very good boot upper material. The japanese bag brand "Slow" uses lots of shonan if i remember correctly.

The topys are like $4-5 per pair although they are made in Japan. Much cheaper than the vibram explosion...

In fact i supplied almost everything. The only things i did not supply were contact cement, shanks and fillings...

Those are waldes #5 A-zip aluninum
zippers. They are about the same size as the #7 vintage line zipper that FW uses on their leather jackets but A-zip zippers are more durable because of the different shape of the teeth according to the manufacturer.

 

[Bfd70]

Justins roper

 

[BloodEagle]

Just got these Trickers Bourton in Acorn Antique - I'm more of a shoe guy than a boots guy, and I've been stalking these shoes for some time. Will they actually go with any of my leathers jackets? Time will tell!

 

[red devil]

Just got these Trickers Bourton in Acorn Antique - I'm more of a shoe guy than a boots guy, and I've been stalking these shoes for some time. Will they actually go with any of my leathers jackets? Time will tell! View attachment 363364

These look very good, they should go with a variety of jackets

 

[Canuck Panda]

^^^Second that. Bourtons are like swiss army knives. They can literally go with just about everything.

 

[Harris HTM]

C&J unlined chukka in snuff suede - really soft and comfortable.
Combined with my good old FQHH 30's Half Belt.

 

[Edward]

^^^Second that. Bourtons are like swiss army knives. They can literally go with just about everything.

Can't knock a good pair of brogues. I've always loved them. Comfier than any sneaker, wearable with denim, leather, tweed or worsted... I have long had good experience with this style from a number of brands, including Barker and Grenson. I am minded to pick up some Trickers next; for my money, they're better than Church's. Broguing is also great for obscuring the odd scuff that would be so much more obvious on a plain shoe.

In other news that ties jackets directly to boots, while many of us were rocked by the news last year that Chippewa were supposedly moving away from producing their classic 11" engineers, Schott have recently announced a move into the boot market with both a shorter workboot (in style not unlike the Aero Jarrow Marcher or the RW Blacksmith) and a 10" engineer boot. The Engineer boot is in the just under USD300 range. A good spot for something relatively affordable which could still be very decent. Certainly looks nice, though as ever with this style of boot I'd want to try before I buy.

https://www.schottnyc.com/products/10-engineer-boot.htm

 

[Monitor]

In other news that ties jackets directly to boots, while many of us were rocked by the news last year that Chippewa were supposedly moving away from producing their classic 11" engineers, Schott have recently announced a move into the boot market with both a shorter workboot (in style not unlike the Aero Jarrow Marcher or the RW Blacksmith) and a 10" engineer boot. The Engineer boot is in the just under USD300 range. A good spot for something relatively affordable which could still be very decent. Certainly looks nice, though as ever with this style of boot I'd want to try before I buy.

https://www.schottnyc.com/products/10-engineer-boot.htm

Huh, not a fan of these. To me, shape of the boot is everything and these appear so basic that they literally look like Wellingtons. But it's hard with Engineer boots in general as they're rather dull looking boots, are you to remove all the straps and buckles, and it was this realization made me give up on them (almost) entirely - Almost because, $300 is still a lot if it ain't paying for nothing you actually want out of your boot so I'm stuck with either dishing out $3000 or whatever for Clinch or never wearing a pair again. Clinch guy gets the dull part & he shaped his boot to perfection, while even RMC at the same price point, makes a leather Wellie. Wesco makes a nice Engineer too, though.
But that's just my opinion on the matter. A lot of people like these in general so all good.

Speaking of, Dsquared2 recently released a surprisingly good looking Engineer boot! It's got a stupid zipper which is a huge negative in my book but on the other hand, it's made in calf so I don't expect it to be an instrument of torture like those heavy-ass HH boots.
Then again, it's a thousand euros so perhaps it'd be best to invest into something else but either way, if I had many money, I'd probably buy these.

 

[Edward]

Huh, not a fan of these. To me, shape of the boot is everything and these appear so basic that they literally look like Wellingtons. But it's hard with Engineer boots in general as they're rather dull looking boots, are you to remove all the straps and buckles, and it was this realization made me give up on them (almost) entirely - Almost because, $300 is still a lot if it ain't paying for nothing you actually want out of your boot so I'm stuck with either dishing out $3000 or whatever for Clinch or never wearing a pair again. Clinch guy gets the dull part & he shaped his boot to perfection, while even RMC at the same price point, makes a leather Wellie. Wesco makes a nice Engineer too, though.
But that's just my opinion on the matter. A lot of people like these in general so all good.

Speaking of, Dsquared2 recently released a surprisingly good looking Engineer boot! It's got a stupid zipper which is a huge negative in my book but on the other hand, it's made in calf so I don't expect it to be an instrument of torture like those heavy-ass HH boots.
Then again, it's a thousand euros so perhaps it'd be best to invest into something else but either way, if I had many money, I'd probably buy these.

Eesh, that's scary money... I have handled a pair of Clinch boots in London and they are beautiful, but the price is just way far beyond what I'd ever pay for a pair of boots (unless maybe fully bespoke, though they'd be the steal of the century for that price if they were). I'd quite like to see the Schotts in person; they don't look to me all that far off the Chippewas, though I'm very much keen on engineer boots when I find the right fit.

Not generally a fan of zips, though the right one could be a plus for air-travel. Problem is, for the zip to have an advantage there, either the buckles are reduced to mere decoration, or you're still into doing up buckles so the time saving is gone.

 

[Pandemic]

Speaking of engineers, I really like the recent improvements Benzein has made. I think this will be my next purchase.

 

[Pandemic]

Pretty close to this, with an extra 5mm of heel height and a nice Cuban curve on the heel. I’m leaning toward the Badalassi, mostly because I don’t like the idea of teacore on boots. Though the Shinki and Maryam both look stunning. If the wait wasn’t so long I’d have ordered already, but now I’m hesitating.

 

[Jin431]

Pretty close to this, with an extra 5mm of heel height and a nice Cuban curve on the heel. I’m leaning toward the Badalassi, mostly because I don’t like the idea of teacore on boots. Though the Shinki and Maryam both look stunning. If the wait wasn’t so long I’d have ordered already, but now I’m hesitating.

View attachment 364695 View attachment 364696 View attachment 364697

go black Maryam it feels/look more premium, the nero Badalassi is a little matte so I had to mink oil mine.

 

[TheOldFashioned]

Allen Edmonds Alumnus and Aero 30s Half Belt both in Chromexcel:

 

[Canuck Panda]

Navy suede brogue boots (Tricker's Henry). Vi-Lite sole, feels like I am wearing Vans. Nice change from the hardcore commandos.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

New article on USA made boots: https://almostvintagestyle.com/2021/09/29/the-top-ten-made-in-usa-boots-best-american-made-boots/

@Pandemic that is a woodsman heel, NOT a Cuban heel.

 

[andyone]

New article on USA made boots: https://almostvintagestyle.com/2021/09/29/the-top-ten-made-in-usa-boots-best-american-made-boots/

@Pandemic that is a woodsman heel, NOT a Cuban heel.

Jake, I know you might be tired of explaining it… but could you just give me a hint what are the major differences between Cuban and woodmans heel?

 

[Monitor]

New article on USA made boots: https://almostvintagestyle.com/2021/09/29/the-top-ten-made-in-usa-boots-best-american-made-boots/

@Pandemic that is a woodsman heel, NOT a Cuban heel.

Great read. All on point and my very limited experience with US made boots corresponds with what you've written. Shame Frye is no longer in the competition.

Jake, I know you might be tired of explaining it… but could you just give me a hint what are the major differences between Cuban and woodmans heel?

Should I not be mistaken, Woodsman or Logger heels are curved at the back with a slight taper while Cuban heels are more angled with a dramatic taper and often (much) higher.

 

[Pandemic]

@Pandemic that is a woodsman heel, NOT a Cuban heel.

Totally. For my order, I want the heel a tad taller and more Cuban than woodsman: the curve or angle of a Cuban but with the greater base area (ie greater length of heel base extending towards toe) of the woodsman style.