Fixing asymmetrical collar on Real McCoy's leather jacket

[JackBroChill]

Hello hello.

I am the new owner of a beautiful Real McCoy's single breasted jacket from their collaboration with The Armoury.

I love this jacket, I think it fits perfectly, it's the exact mix of casual but still interesting and versatile. It has a great weight, interior pockets, etc.

But the damn collar rests in such a way that is getting under my skin for such an expensive jacket. I think it simply has to do with the way the creasing has occurred (though was purchased brand new), because I refuse to believe RMC would send out a jacket with this uneven of a cut of leather for the collar. And when I really put them side by side they appear to be the same length.

Now I shouldn't let this bother me too much, but it's also such an expensive jacket that I don't want something like this to nag at me for the price I'm paying. Unfortunately this was the last one (maybe ever?) they had so simply looking to exchange for a more 'flawless' version is not an option.

So I'm mostly asking

1. Should this really bother me that much? Looking for encouragement but honesty here...

2. I'm sure exacting customers as FDL members have all had pieces of clothing where some element of the drape or fold of the item was ever not so, and it's bothered us and perhaps some of us have fixed it. Any recommendations on how to try and make it drape/fold/crease more evenly?

I don't need it to be perfect and obviously I could just try and brute force it into position and put a weight or some pressure on it for some time and hope of the best, but just thought if anyone had any advice or experience with this I would appreciate it!

Thanks.

Including some extra photos of the jacket for good measure.

 

[sshack]

Try clipping with one of those thick legal brief clips that have the butterfly wings. I know, this sounds like gibberish, but I saw some guy do it in another post.

 

[JackBroChill]

Try clipping with one of those thick legal brief clips that have the butterfly wings. I know, this sounds like gibberish, but I saw some guy do it in another post.

This is a great suggestion!

 

[Will Zach]

You can shape the collar quite easily by wetting the leather (not soaking it, but rather wetting it with a rag soaked in water) and then using the butterfly paper clip to hold the crease in the desired place as the leather dries as sshack suggested.
CAUTION - put some thick fabric like a piece of towel or plastic like an old credit card between the paper clip and the leather. These clips exert some serious force when shut and will leave deep marks on wet leather that may be very difficult to remove.
Edit - in your second pic the collar flaps do appear to be a different length...at least 1/2 inch... I am confused - did you measure them? If they are different, it would not be acceptable, at least to me.

 

[Carlos840]

Pics are confusing, are both colalrs the same length? As Will says it looks liek they are different lengths in pic 2.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I get this same problem a lot. On high end and low end jacket and both leather and nylon and sometimes wool. One of the collar just seem shorter or longer or hit differently.

If you can still exchange, exchange.

If not, use a clip to reshape it. apply some conditioning first, put an rag over it, then clip it in the shape you want it to be. Leave it overnight and check to see if it got reshaped, if not, prolong the clipping time.

Overtime, the collar might go back to the uneven state again, it's annoying but it happens, then repeat the process.

Below just an example. I didn't have a problem with this jacket, just happened to be the one I am wearing today.

 

[ton312]

^ This is what I do as well if I want to get the points wider. Took this:

To this:

Purely with the clips.
I’ve also reshaped lapels this way:

Just to avoid confusion I also color treated both jackets as well.

 

[Brandrea33]

For posterity, let’s see the clips

Dumb arse … I see it in Canuck Pandas post …. Duh

 

[ton312]

For posterity, let’s see the clips

Dumb arse … I see it in Canuck Pandas post …. Duh

I use those same big ass clips and leather doesn't stand an ice cubes chance in Hell against them.

 

[JackBroChill]

Thanks all.

These pictures might give a better idea. It's tricky to get a super precise measurement without someone else here to help me hold the collar taut but the actual lengths are very close. There may be a slight difference but it also might be more with how to do with the way the collar is sewn into the body (i.e. one has a touch more room before the zipper notch than the other) than actual difference in length of the collar itself.

When I measure and hold them side by side, they're nearly identical. The possible slight difference is sorta nagging at me but I think trying to wet and shape the collar with clips as suggested will make it look identical to the eye.

Or maybe this is too much of a difference for a jacket this expensive. Curious to see what everyone else thinks.

 

[JackBroChill]

I get this same problem a lot. On high end and low end jacket and both leather and nylon and sometimes wool. One of the collar just seem shorter or longer or hit differently.

If you can still exchange, exchange.

If not, use a clip to reshape it. apply some conditioning first, put an rag over it, then clip it in the shape you want it to be. Leave it overnight and check to see if it got reshaped, if not, prolong the clipping time.

Overtime, the collar might go back to the uneven state again, it's annoying but it happens, then repeat the process.

Below just an example. I didn't have a problem with this jacket, just happened to be the one I am wearing today.

View attachment 513694

Unfortunately it's the last size of a run they won't be restocking anytime soon (if ever) and it's kind of an ideal jacket for me in terms of checking off all the boxes and fits well. So even if the collars are ever slightly off (as per the photos as I just added) I think the stark difference right now is mostly due to how they are creasing and so fixing it like this will make it identical to the eye.

I've seen people suggest soaking the collar and then clipping, but have you found conditioning cream to work or be better? May try this and if it ultimately can't be fixed, try and decide how much to let it bother me or just return it.

Thanks,

 

[JackBroChill]

^ This is what I do as well if I want to get the points wider. Took this:
View attachment 513696
To this:
View attachment 513697
Purely with the clips.
I’ve also reshaped lapels this way:
View attachment 513698 View attachment 513699
Just to avoid confusion I also color treated both jackets as well.

Ahhh that wider spread on the vanson looks great! Will have to give this a try. Do you just put the clips on or do you soak/add conditioner at all first?

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I would stick to just using water over conditioner. The jacket doesn't need conditioning and may not even work as well as the water.

 

[Will Zach]

I would stick to just using water over conditioner. The jacket doesn't need conditioning and may not even work as well as the water.

I wanted to say the same thing.

 

[cbez]

I have tried overnight clips on my rainbow country to tighten up the collar fold, but it seems to relax over the course of the day. I'll have to try water.

 

[christian-h]

As mentioned above: you can easily form your collar if you use water.

Out it on a wide hanger, dampen the leather and form the collar the way you like. Let it hang over the night.

I did this with my RMC Steinbeck and it changed the whole look.

 

[Aloysius]

As mentioned above: you can easily form your collar if you use water.

Out it on a wide hanger, dampen the leather and form the collar the way you like. Let it hang over the night.

I did this with my RMC Steinbeck and it changed the whole look. View attachment 513789 View attachment 513790

Do my eyes deceive me or is the collar uneven in length even in that (presumable) ad photo above?

 

[JackBroChill]

Do my eyes deceive me or is the collar uneven in length even in that (presumable) ad photo above?

I think the exact same thing is happening here as is with my jacket, just either side of the collar naturally folding a certain way as to appear uneven rather than the actual length of the collar/leather.

Mine *might* have a slight difference per the photos with a ruler, but I think it just stems from the way the leather is sitting when folded and when uh, "sprouting" from the area next to the top of the zipper.

Looks like some water and binder clips will solve my problem, however!

 

[VansonRider]

When I got my Vanson Highwayman the right side lapel, the part that ends up under the zipper when fully closed, had some weird creasing in it, rather from the way it was stored or maybe shipping.
I tried to wear it flat but no success.
What worked great was running some water into the lapel from inside, in through the liner so it soaked in from the flesh side of the hide. Then I rolled up a blanket, put it in the shoulders and zipped it closed. Let it dry for two days and it’s fine now.
With your collar it looks like a little of both, that the collars are juuuust a bit off, and then it’s amplified by that crease. If it were mine, I’d do two passes of water shaping. First I’d get the short collar wet and see if I could stretch it by hand. Just pull on it but don’t deform. THEN I’d put the crease in with clips and credit cards.
And while I see exactly what you’re pointing out, if I saw you wearing it in the street I’d NEVER notice. It’s there, but it’s very subtle.
I think we are all used to seeing objects made by computer controlled machines on an assembly line. Everything needs to be identical and repeatable. these are stitched one at a time by a person using a sewing machine, and I think, for myself anyway, this variation in symmetry is entirely within the realm of acceptable tolerance.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Thanks all.

These pictures might give a better idea. It's tricky to get a super precise measurement without someone else here to help me hold the collar taut but the actual lengths are very close. There may be a slight difference but it also might be more with how to do with the way the collar is sewn into the body (i.e. one has a touch more room before the zipper notch than the other) than actual difference in length of the collar itself.

When I measure and hold them side by side, they're nearly identical. The possible slight difference is sorta nagging at me but I think trying to wet and shape the collar with clips as suggested will make it look identical to the eye.

Or maybe this is too much of a difference for a jacket this expensive. Curious to see what everyone else thinks.

I don't think its actually the size of the collar but some are just like this. I've had many like this high and low.

This is one of my most stubborn one, its a stubborn goat that would keep going back. Third time clamping just now:

Lube the seam, moist fibers are easily coerced...

The top clip is actually the trouble area, the other two just to get the collar wider towards the shoulder. I added another clip to give that pointy look on the other side. You probably want a rag between the clips and the leather because yours is teacore and can rub off. Mine is tough goat and fur so I didn't use rag in between to avoid early wear.

Now I wait a few days...

It was like this:, not much different from yours:

Usually with one good night of clamping my collars can look and stay like this:

Will post again in a few days for the result...