Five Star Leather Jackets

[Aloysius]

This hide looks excellent. The slightly big shoulders and long sleeves are very much part of how naval airmen usually wear their jackets so you're doing okay with that.

 

[unhatted]

Thanks both.

Langlitz actually recommends their goatskin over cowhide for serious riders (as opposed to imaginary riders like myself). I got a chance to handle one of their goatskin Columbia’s when I was at their shop and it was quite substantial, not at all lightweight or flimsy.

Thanks both—that’s really good to know! TBH I suspect the same jacket in 5* goathide *will* be a little softer than their horsehide but given what I’ve read across the past few pages, a repro in a fairly pliable leather seems like one of the safer bets. My only slight hesitation is that I’m pretty sure the original jacket the pattern was taken from was a size 48 (supplied by @Bahabp100 IIRC?) and I’m going below their offered sizings to a small 36—so I guess this may introduce a not-insignificant variable in terms of patterning…

 

[PilotJens]

Thanks both.

Thanks both—that’s really good to know! TBH I suspect the same jacket in 5* goathide *will* be a little softer than their horsehide but given what I’ve read across the past few pages, a repro in a fairly pliable leather seems like one of the safer bets. My only slight hesitation is that I’m pretty sure the original jacket the pattern was taken from was a size 48 (supplied by @Bahabp100 IIRC?) and I’m going below their offered sizings to a small 36—so I guess this may introduce a not-insignificant variable in terms of patterning…

Ask Shawn for the measurements before ordering.They do have smaller sizes but they don't list every one .
I am a size 34. /5XS

 

[Aloysius]

Just saw that there was this 2023 updates thread by Five Star on VLJ which gathers a lot of the reproduced-from-originals jackets, which include a Cagleco G-1, a B-7, an Irvin (probably more; I just looked at the first two pages.)

Should be the first place to look for someone who wants to get a jacket from them with a solid spec.

 

[revkev]

Hi, I perused this thread but a loooooooot to sort through. Im thinking of getting a Horsehide Seal Grey jacket made in the trucker style. Anyone have experience with their horsehide?

 

[JDarwin52]

I have a 30s Half belt in horsehide, “pull up brown”. 1.4 mm is hefty and starts out quite stiff. I like it, but in hindsight I wish I had not reduced some of the dimensions from the standard fit.. Stiff leather and a close fit make it a chore to move around in. But it’s slowwwly softening up.

 

[spectre6000]

Tell us more about this one. This is the general direction I'm aiming for personally.

 

[4444Design]

It's been a busy week, but here are a few photos of the jacket, most taken by my extremely patient partner (bless her heart). Front, back, open, mirror. One thing I'll say about these photos is that Google's software is making the jacket look less brown than it does in reality. It's a greyish brown, but quite clearly a brown to the naked eye, whereas these photos make it look black. I'm pretty sure it's just modern phone cameras; the mirror shot looks browner to my eye, and it's more like that in reality.

I've worn it in our typically rainy weather, and while it's yet to encounter a proper soaking, it has shrugged off the rain so far. It also has been pretty dismissive of twigs and branches. Very happy I went with the goat, I really feel like I can just wear and not care, which is what I wanted.

The fit is perfectly generous and comfy, and a little bit oversized without being stupidly floppy. I could probably have taken another half inch off the sleeves, but it's really fine and anyway might have looked weird when the shoulders are deliberately a bit spacious. Oversized shoulders and fitted sleeves would probably look a bit daft.

I'm still extremely satisfied with it, and it looks like I'm going to get that refund of the tip for the hole in the knit, which was the only problem. As long as it holds up, it's a bargain.

I like the look

 

[JDarwin52]

Tell us more about this one. This is the general direction I'm aiming for personally.

I’ve long admired the HB look and moved slowly on this purchase, my first halfbelt. To my eye, this is a well-executed take on the classic look.
I did a few tweaks, mostly based on input from this thread. Only wish I had put cuff dimension closer to 5.75”. Can barely fit my hand through. And specifying satin/smooth poly on the sleeves would have been huge. But overall, on ratio of smiles per dollar- I’m happy.
Tweaks below were submitted with my order along with separate text on sleeve/back length, pit-to-pit, etc.

 

[spectre6000]

How do you like the pull up brown horse hide? I'm in the process of ordering leather and fabric samples now.

 

[JDarwin52]

Samples are a great “long game” idea, I was not patient enough for that!
The color doesn’t truly change or “pull up” when the leather is folded hard or stretched. So the manufacturer calling it pull up is, well, a stretch. Different batches may be a factor here.
But still, it’s a nice, mid-depth reddish brown. Similar to what I’d call a true russet. Little or no variation in color tones, as yet. It’s my first horsehide and I’m not a leather pro, but it seems very durable and of good quality.

 

[PilotJens]

I have a feeling that the Pakistani have different meanings for known leather types .
CHL=Crazy Horse Leather/Any leather infused with waxes and oils
Pull up leather= Leather that changes color due to oils,wax top coat or paint top coat .

Is the core of the pull up leather lighter/different color all together or similar to the overall color on top ?


When I talked to different manufacturers they could never really give me a clear answer .It seems they can only look at a still shot of a photo lol

 

[JDarwin52]

I have a feeling that the Pakistani have different meanings for known leather types .
CHL=Crazy Horse Leather/Any leather infused with waxes and oils
Pull up leather= Leather that changes color due to oils,wax top coat or paint top coat .

Is the core of the pull up leather lighter/different color all together or similar to the overall color on top ?


When I talked to different manufacturers they could never really give me a clear answer .It seems they can only look at a still shot of a photo lol

Interesting! As to your question, there’s just a little exposed thickness at the cinch strap.

Looks a little lighter? I’m out of my depth to answer definitively since brown is kind of a natural leather color anyway, ha.

 

[spectre6000]

I've got a fair bit of leather experience and an appropriate microscope. When I get my samples, I'll do my thing and post up here.

 

[GraceNote13]

It’s been 5 days since I reached out to Shawn and Fargham, no response regarding a full refund or no cost remake. I emailed them again today and will give them a few more days before I file a complaint and request a refund through my credit card provider. They claim a 100% customer satisfaction guarantee on the website, I hope they plan on honoring it. I'm really trying to give them the benefit of doubt as there are a few holidays in the first 2 weeks of February in Pakistan.

Also gave them the option to remake the jacket in standard steer, if the CHL is partially to blame for the issues.

 

[PilotJens]

It looks dyed through so I guess it has minimal pull up

 

[spectre6000]

It’s been 5 days since I reached out to Shawn and Fargham, no response regarding a full refund or no cost remake. I emailed them again today and will give them a few more days before I file a complaint and request a refund through my credit card provider. They claim a 100% customer satisfaction guarantee on the website, I hope they plan on honoring it. I'm really trying to give them the benefit of doubt as there are a few holidays in the first 2 weeks of February in Pakistan.

Also gave them the option to remake the jacket in standard steer, if the CHL is partially to blame for the issues.

The issue looks like an imbalance between the front, collar, and back measurements. What did you give them, and what did they give you? I'd be interested to know the details of your order entirely. You started with that known reproduction, but then changed measurements. What else was changed?

 

[El Marro]

What did you give them, and what did they give you?

He gave them money and they gave him an unwearable jacket.

 

[navetsea]

I’ve long admired the HB look and moved slowly on this purchase, my first halfbelt. To my eye, this is a well-executed take on the classic look.
I did a few tweaks, mostly based on input from this thread. Only wish I had put cuff dimension closer to 5.75”. Can barely fit my hand through. And specifying satin/smooth poly on the sleeves would have been huge. But overall, on ratio of smiles per dollar- I’m happy.
Tweaks below were submitted with my order along with separate text on sleeve/back length, pit-to-pit, etc. View attachment 587957 View attachment 587958

move the chest pocket down and closer to the main zipper, this picture lays flat it would look too high once you wear them

 

[Bahabp100]

Thanks both.

Thanks both—that’s really good to know! TBH I suspect the same jacket in 5* goathide *will* be a little softer than their horsehide but given what I’ve read across the past few pages, a repro in a fairly pliable leather seems like one of the safer bets. My only slight hesitation is that I’m pretty sure the original jacket the pattern was taken from was a size 48 (supplied by @Bahabp100 IIRC?) and I’m going below their offered sizings to a small 36—so I guess this may introduce a not-insignificant variable in terms of patterning…

The jacket I sent was a 46 L in 1960s sizing . The jacket he made was size 50 for me . He extrapolated