@Aloysius I thought I was safe ordering a jacket based on an original pattern, I was wrong. This wasn't a unicorn based on photos. I've learned, It only works if you want an exact duplicate of the original in the same size. Any changes to critcal measurements means were relying on their ability to alter the original pattern and that's where it falls apart.
I think there are two additional things to take into account. Grading a pattern is less difficult than drafting a new one altogether, however I think you needed to have been checking in on the grading process a bit more.
And I think the CHL really throws an additional wrench in the works. It's already a gamble but once those super thick leathers enter into it, it's that much more likely to go wrong imo.