Five Star Leather Jackets

[Aloysius]

While the Sportclad and the Herc would have the same retail as repro jackets, they cost different to make.

The Sportclad only has three pockets and no hand sewn buttons.

The Herc has five pockets and 6 hand sewn buttons, and two machine button holes.

The Sportclad type of half belt I can always find similar replacements, made by Western brands, for about 600 to 800 dollars, using Western branded tannery leather. The Herc I cannot. And that's where Shawn's value comes in. And making the Herc with the original labels just sweetened up the deal much more.

Don't get me wrong, Shawn can do the Sportclad too. But that's something I can also get from many others, even a bit more money but more value. Hope I am making sense. These are just my personal opinion though. Others may see it differently. But one thing I know is button hole seems to be a big deal in the real of custom jackets.

This is a significant consideration. With vintage American jackets, we often see the relatively low labor cost vis-à-vis materials cost, in things like multi panel construction or the use of textiles instead of leather in parts like gussets or backing.

With Five Star the more time consuming techniques are viable.

 

[tmitchell59]

While the Sportclad and the Herc would have the same retail as repro jackets, they cost different to make.

The Sportclad only has three pockets and no hand sewn buttons.

The Herc has five pockets and 6 hand sewn buttons, and two machine button holes.

The Sportclad type of half belt I can always find similar replacements, made by Western brands, for about 600 to 800 dollars, using Western branded tannery leather. The Herc I cannot. And that's where Shawn's value comes in. And making the Herc with the original labels just sweetened up the deal much more.

Don't get me wrong, Shawn can do the Sportclad too. But that's something I can also get from many others, even a bit more money but more value. Hope I am making sense. These are just my personal opinion though. Others may see it differently. But one thing I know is button hole seems to be a big deal in the real of custom jackets.

Yes I understand what you are saying.

This Monarch goatskin with buttons would be an excellent choice for buttons! I don't think anyone is doing anything like this. It was very popular when I bought it recently. I know well what I like, I'm not that sure what others like.

 

[bn1966]

No issues at all with the three jackets I’ve purchased inc goat.

 

[Yamahana]

Yes I understand what you are saying.

This Monarch goatskin with buttons would be an excellent choice for buttons! I don't think anyone is doing anything like this. It was very popular when I bought it recently. I know well what I like, I'm not that sure what others like.

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One of my most favorites for sure. The button closures gives it a little more unique vibe. I’ve been working on something similar with Shawn @ 5 star using some 1930s NOS Czechoslovakian buttons in goatskin. I don’t do FB or Instagram but he responds to my emails in less than 24 hrs every time.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Yes I understand what you are saying.

This Monarch goatskin with buttons would be an excellent choice for buttons! I don't think anyone is doing anything like this. It was very popular when I bought it recently. I know well what I like, I'm not that sure what others like.

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How many Monarchs do you have?!

So this is what the Aero Maxwell was "vintage possible" to be I guess. It's a bit basic for me but I'd get one. I've already got a few cossack length of these button jackets but could use a longer one in half belt length.

Shawn already copied a Y2 car coat which is similar but longer. The problem with car coats is that they only look good for guys taller than 6'2" and I am not. The half belt length would make a nice addition. The strap cuffs gives it just that extra oomph. This is one of those things that I wouldn't buy first but would wear more often once I have it.

I wish I had my books with me to show the photos. Nothing beats the actual thing though.

 

[tmitchell59]

How many Monarchs do you have?!

5 or 6 with the label. This is the Best half-belt I have owned much better than the 1935 Iconic Hercules by Monarch. Dave Sheely put the Monarch label in this jacket when he had it for specs. Another case of not all half belts are the same.

 

[Aloysius]

I would love to have Sheeley make me a jacket. His military Monarchs are tempting, but on the other hand Aero and others also do a great job with those, whereas no one but Mr. Sheeley is doing the civilian Monarchs. (The ideal choice is to get both from him, of course, but I always approach a first purchase like it's going to be the only one.)

 

[MrProper]

Just arrived.
**** ... my first Halfbelt and I'm afraid I need more.
But must first look at the jacket in daylight and then I can report.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Just arrived.
**** ... my first Halfbelt and I'm afraid I need more.
But must first look at the jacket in daylight and then I can report.
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Yes, Half Belts are very addictive. You nailed the fit on this one as always. Congrats!

 

[Rugby]

And my first 5* adventure has been concluded. The jacket arrived and...as I was afraid it's kinda big in the midsection.
I'm not sure how to address that issue. Any way the jacket is really good, but it has a strange gasoline smell. Good hh leather, no stiffness at all. I guess this will serve as my fit jacket.

 

[Canuck Panda]

5 or 6 with the label. This is the Best half-belt I have owned much better than the 1935 Iconic Hercules by Monarch. Dave Sheely put the Monarch label in this jacket when he had it for specs. Another case of not all half belts are the same.

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You are talking about pre-war construction style.

I have not seen a repro jacket made the pre-war way, like your Monarch HB. Period.

Honestly I am not sure if 5Star is the one to decode this either. All my serious repro branded jackets has failed me (GW, HB) on pre-war construction style accuracy. Not fair I know given both brands are post war styles, but I had hoped they did things the pre-war way. The above photo shows it somewhat. There is a very fine bead, then goes very flat, in the pre-war style. Post war is always some versions of the FW LaBrea, either flat all the way through, or bulky half way. The French seams also looks different. Yes they are all triple stitched, but they look different.

The pre-war stitching, even when crooked, looks more refined than the post war versions, even with laser guidance. This could just be my imagination but that just how I see them.

 

[ton312]

Just arrived.
**** ... my first Halfbelt and I'm afraid I need more.
But must first look at the jacket in daylight and then I can report.
View attachment 414299

Outstanding!!! What do you think of the HH? It’s light right?! Perfect for spring and fall. I’m pissed it’s too cold to even wear mine now, b/c I bought it precisely for this time of year.

 

[Aloysius]

I have not seen a repro jacket made the pre-war way, like your Monarch HB. Period.

Have you seen Sheeley's 30s civilian stuff? He uses those techniques and machines that Monarch used then, I think.

I can't think of anyone else who does, though.

 

[Rugby]

Just arrived.
**** ... my first Halfbelt and I'm afraid I need more.
But must first look at the jacket in daylight and then I can report.
View attachment 414299

This is a great jacket! Is it the 1.3mm HH?
How do you get them to get your measurements on point? I'm a bit disappointed that they didn't follow my instructions as to how to tapper the jacket. And the leather I got feels quite thin for 1.3mm HH
I'm going to go have another go with 5* and this time I'm going to go for the cossack and make sure that the measurements are correct.

 

[MrProper]

Outstanding!!! What do you think of the HH? It’s light right?! Perfect for spring and fall. I’m pissed it’s too cold to even wear mine now, b/c I bought it precisely for this time of year.

It wears super comfortable. Like my sheep from LL. One downside is that the leather is not uniformly thick. On the forearm it is paper thin compared to the shoulder and collar. But better that way than the other way around lol.
I am pleasantly surprised by the satin lining. Very supple and really thick. Seems very sturdy. This will be my new standard lining. Unfortunately, 5* has slopped at the collar and made this 52 cm instead of 45 cm circumference. With my thin neck, this looks moderate.
Now I am tempted to have this jacket made again in the 2mm HH.

 

[Rugby]

It wears super comfortable. Like my sheep from LL. One downside is that the leather is not uniformly thick. On the forearm it is paper thin compared to the shoulder and collar. But better that way than the other way around lol.
I am pleasantly surprised by the satin lining. Very supple and really thick. Seems very sturdy. This will be my new standard lining. Unfortunately, 5* has slopped at the collar and made this 52 cm instead of 45 cm circumference. With my thin neck, this looks moderate.
Now I am tempted to have this jacket made again in the 2mm HH.

Yes the satin lining is really good. And I copy your comments about the uneven thickness and the off neck circumference, but I chalk it in, in my case, with the overall slopped up measurements.

 

[MrProper]

How do you get them to get your measurements on point?

I already have 11 or 12 jackets and vests from 5*.
I give a lot of details and describe exactly from where to where to taper. Usually the measurements are then on point. Sometimes, however, they aren't. Now Shaw was on a business trip and that's when the quality control is probably lacking.
My first jacket was also too wide around the waist. I then sent it back and it was altered perfectly.

 

[Rugby]

I already have 11 or 12 jackets and vests from 5*.
I give a lot of details and describe exactly from where to where to taper. Usually the measurements are then on point. Sometimes, however, they aren't. Now Shaw was on a business trip and that's when the quality control is probably lacking.
My first jacket was also too wide around the waist. I then sent it back and it was altered perfectly.

So it’s possible to return it and have them make alterations? I thought that was frowned upon

 

[ton312]

It wears super comfortable. Like my sheep from LL. One downside is that the leather is not uniformly thick. On the forearm it is paper thin compared to the shoulder and collar. But better that way than the other way around lol.
I am pleasantly surprised by the satin lining. Very supple and really thick. Seems very sturdy. This will be my new standard lining. Unfortunately, 5* has slopped at the collar and made this 52 cm instead of 45 cm circumference. With my thin neck, this looks moderate.
Now I am tempted to have this jacket made again in the 2mm HH.

I was going to do the californian in 2mm but the piping can’t be some. This model would suit the hide quite well.

 

[Aloysius]

I was going to do the californian in 2mm but the piping can’t be some. This model would suit the hide quite well.

Damn, that’s almost exactly what I was hoping to order (either the Californian or a different piped model) in the black horsehide.