Five Star Leather Jackets

[navetsea]

Does anybody have an idea how these pockets are made? Are they just sewn or they have something to give that 3d feel?

I just want to make sure I can tell Shawn exactly how I want the pockets for the project.

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I honestly don't know how to do that in unbroken panel like that and without any wrinkling and pulling, maybe they glue the cord and wet the leather overnight or something to expand and cover it with leather strip backing or ribbon underneath along the piping wait until dry, and top stitch it. Similar thing in simplest form just a short straight bump going on my harness boots, not even topstitched, so must be glued inbetween 2 leather


I imagine in more complex shape it need top stitching to really secure the shape.

on patch pocket edge, or sandwich construction like piping in between 2 panels is a lot easier.
I have raw hem on my jackets so I can show you here, flatter one they use something like shoe laces, round one they use something like cables, can be leather can be plastic.

 

[MrProper]

That’s an old Schott “Ike”. Always admired those myself!

Yes exactly. Thank you.
the backward search of google resulted in Schott Perfecto 683

 

[Riu]

I honestly don't know how to do that in unbroken panel like that and without any wrinkling and pulling, maybe they glue the cord and wet the leather overnight or something to expand and cover it with leather strip backing or ribbon underneath along the piping wait until dry, and top stitch it. Similar thing in simplest form just a short straight bump going on my harness boots, not even topstitched, so must be glued inbetween 2 leather
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I imagine in more complex shape it need top stitching to really secure the shape.

on patch pocket edge, or sandwich construction like piping in between 2 panels is a lot easier.
I have raw hem on my jackets so I can show you here, flatter one they use something like shoe laces, round one they use something like cables, can be leather can be plastic.
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I like a flatter one, don't want it to stick out too much so I'm curious about that aspect and I'll definitely check with him.

 

[navetsea]

I think the different between this design and normal slash style hand warmer is , this one has pocket back stitched on to leather panel, maybe that raise edge is just the edge or the pocket back folded in and top stitched, the same idea can e used on jacket without lining, so can have pocket but without pocket bag hanging inside.

 

[Riu]

I think the different between this design and normal slash style hand warmer is , this one has pocket back stitched on to leather panel, maybe that raise edge is just the edge or the pocket back folded in and top stitched, the same idea can e used on jacket without lining, so can have pocket but without pocket bag hanging inside.

Could be, I have no knowledge but what you're saying makes sense. I've modified the design after as I wasn't happy and wanted a bit more weight at the bottom of the jacket and the cuffs will have buttons like the jacket I got the inspiration from.

 

[PilotJens]

Do you use Photoshop for your designs ? It looks great .I would love to find out if I should use a thick or slim buckle for the front latch of my jacket

Could be, I have no knowledge but what you're saying makes sense. I've modified the design after as I wasn't happy and wanted a bit more weight at the bottom of the jacket and the cuffs will have buttons like the jacket I got the inspiration from.

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[Riu]

Do you use Photoshop for your designs ? It looks great .I would love to find out if I should use a thick or slim buckle for the front latch of my jacket

Photoshop it is Thank you. Send me some pictures and I can do a quick simulation

 

[navetsea]

Could be, I have no knowledge but what you're saying makes sense. I've modified the design after as I wasn't happy and wanted a bit more weight at the bottom of the jacket and the cuffs will have buttons like the jacket I got the inspiration from.

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the belting is to me is better if not a french or blind seam, french seam is better for vertical seams to make the jacket drape better can twist better, for horizontal seam it looks bad like it ran out of material. better be just normal lapped topstitched seam either over or under the body panel in my opinion.

 

[Riu]

the belting is to me is better if not a french or blind seam, french seam is better for vertical seams to make the jacket drape better can twist better, for horizontal seam it looks bad like it ran out of material. better be just normal lapped topstitched seam either over or under the body panel in my opinion.

I have tried it topstitched but I don't like it. It adds too much weight or it seems off to me, there is something I don't like about it.

 

[navetsea]

Looks great but few issues here:
1. Left shoulder looks much longer than right, the collar is not sits at center.
2. Outter side of cuff is longer than other side, not sure it is normal.
3. Requested zipped hand pocket, did not do that.
4. Front panel not cut equally and cause the main zipper not straight.

Really impressive work by 5star.
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looks great man, congrats!!
other than the zip hand pocket I didn't see other flaws mentioned, they are just photos of brand new jacket, he didn't want to crease it so he wear it awkwardly maybe that already make it look weird maybe the photo is also not perfectly frontal, his jeans might be twisting a bit on the front fly etc.

 

[navetsea]

I have tried it topstitched but I don't like it. It adds too much weight or it seems off to me, there is something I don't like about it.

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how about have it underneath

 

[Riu]

how about have it underneath
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That might work. I think the reason I didn't want it over or under is because I wanted to add just a bit more weight to the bottom while maintaining some sort of unity between those panels without any of them overlapping the other.

I've kept the side panels so the back would sit nicer and that's how it looks.

I like how the cuffs are on that Rogue jacket and I'd like to have them like that.

 

[PilotJens]

I wonder if Shawn can give me a hide that's dyed only half of the time of his normal process .I think this has some potential .It develops some nice darker spots but the heavy paint/pigment prevents it from surfacing.The higher end leathers seem to archive the colour by grease darkening and not giving it a solid dark pigment .
Same with russet steer. Nice darkening but a bit too much topcoat .After scrubbing it the dark spots come out and oil/water makes the pigment sink deeper so it gets lighter on top

 

[ton312]

I wonder if Shawn can give me a hide that's dyed only half of the time of his normal process .I think this has some potential .It develops some nice darker spots but the heavy paint/pigment prevents it from surfacing.The higher end leathers seem to archive the colour by grease darkening and not giving it a solid dark pigment .
Same with russet steer. Nice darkening but a bit too much topcoat .After scrubbing it the dark spots come out and oil/water makes the pigment sink deeper so it gets lighter on top View attachment 323545

Is that the red russet goat or cognac?

 

[PilotJens]

That is conic goat .Looks ugly at first.
I am testing the dyed through leathers.

 

[MrProper]

I asked Shawn about the Perfecto 683. But I would use a quilted lining and not an elastic waistband, but a strap and a buckle.
He said "no problem". Piping is also not an issue. Sent a sample image with piping.

 

[Riu]

I asked Shawn about the Perfecto 683. But I would use a quilted lining and not an elastic waistband, but a strap and a buckle.
He said "no problem". Piping is also not an issue. Sent a sample image with piping.
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Already doing research for that one?

I hope he will be able to do it less pronounced, I want it to be just slightly above the body as I don't want it that bold. I'm working on the details now and I want to make sure I write everything down. I think a maximum of 1.5mm is just enough for how I want it to be

 

[ton312]

I asked Shawn about the Perfecto 683. But I would use a quilted lining and not an elastic waistband, but a strap and a buckle.
He said "no problem". Piping is also not an issue. Sent a sample image with piping.
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I will be very interested to see how that turns out! Always loved the Schott Ike. They are almost impossible to find in decent shape and a wearable size.

 

[Hh121]

It is FANTASTIC, the picture doesn't do justice to this beautiful jacket.

 

[Hh121]

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