Five Star Leather Jackets

[CRP]

I thought I would update everyone on Cafe Racer I ended up getting from Fivestar. Black premium goat with modification to Seb's base J100 design (changed pockets mainly and adjusted size). No smell except the sweet smell of leather. I went with Shawn's recommendation for a 6 inch spread between body measurements and jacket measurements. It worked for the chest, but was too loose in the waist. I had the jacket tailored locally to take in the waist by 2 inches and hem by 1 inch. Shawn was willing to make the adjustments, but sending it back seemed like too much work when I could get it done locally. Pics are of the jacket after tailoring. Its starting to mold to my body and with a few more weeks should be even more comfortable and look even better.

 

[Seb Lucas]

There seems to be a lot of surplus leather in the back - odd as the front seems trim. Did you want the sleeves that long? My other tweak to this pattern would be to use a single layer of leather under the sleeve zip - like most cafe racers. Shawn seems to use a double layer which makes the sleeve bunch out a bit at the wrist and harder to do up. How's yours?

 

[Seb Lucas]

Looks ok at the front but there is something not quite right about the pattern at the back. These jackets need to be V shaped - as I said on your other post there is a fair bit of surplus leather at the back. It's not fatal but it is a flaw.

 

[ton312]

I think it looks great! I like the black goat too. I think the black and seal are the best options for goat from 5 Star.

 

[Seb Lucas]

My own jacket, which I gave away, was this one - straight out of the bag here. I don't remember how the back fit and didn't take photos. I seem to remember more of a tailored V shape but maybe I'm wrong. Having a look at some Buco patterns just now, they seem to vary - or maybe it's the photos. This was one very thick.

 

[ton312]

My own jacket, which I gave away, was this one - straight out of the bag here. I don't remember how the back fit and didn't take photos. I seem to remember more of a tailored V shape but maybe I'm wrong. Having a look at some Buco patterns just now, they seem to vary - or maybe it's the photos. This was one very thick.
View attachment 291035

Seb, why on Gods green earth did you give that one away!??

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Perfect sleeve and body length on yours Seb.

 

[Pandemic]

@Seb Lucas ate the pockets kinda high in that jacket or is it just the camera angle?

I’m still low-key wanting a CR, but only enough to pay Fidelity or 5* prices.

 

[CRP]

There seems to be a lot of surplus leather in the back - odd as the front seems trim. Did you want the sleeves that long? My other tweak to this pattern would be to use a single layer of leather under the sleeve zip - like most cafe racers. Shawn seems to use a double layer which makes the sleeve bunch out a bit at the wrist and harder to do up. How's yours?

Actually, the sleeve length is perfect for when they are zipped up and my arms are up. When I unzip the sleeves, they do hang lower. My biggest issue is with raising or crossing my arms and the jacket getting too tight across my back. Not sure how to fix it, but I'm looking at bi-wing backs, underarm gussets/footballs, or having the sleeves sewn inline with the shoulder for better flexibility. Hopefully, one of these options will let me take out the tighten up the back. Learning a lot about jacket construction from this Fivestar experience. Now, I just have to come up with my next experiment.

 

[CRP]

I think it looks great! I like the black goat too. I think the black and seal are the best options for goat from 5 Star.

I'm lovin this goat. I already have an old A2 from the early '90s in seal that is still going strong, so I had to get a black racer. Next is a lighter brown trucker or something similar to one of your sickkkk half belts. Keep up the good work - every one of your designs is an inspiration man!

 

[CRP]

Looks ok at the front but there is something not quite right about the pattern at the back. These jackets need to be V shaped - as I said on your other post there is a fair bit of surplus leather at the back. It's not fatal but it is a flaw.

Agreed - not sure how to remove it without making the shoulders too tight. Looking into gussets, bi-swing backs, and different shoulder structures to solve it on my next one. The leather is thick but elastic, so I am hoping it will mold better over time.

 

[Seb Lucas]

@Seb Lucas ate the pockets kinda high in that jacket or is it just the camera angle?

I’m still low-key wanting a CR, but only enough to pay Fidelity or 5* prices.

It's the photo angle - they look wrong don't they?

 

[Seb Lucas]

I think you can get away with it but it is odd how patterns work.

 

[Carlos840]

Actually, the sleeve length is perfect for when they are zipped up and my arms are up. When I unzip the sleeves, they do hang lower. My biggest issue is with raising or crossing my arms and the jacket getting too tight across my back. Not sure how to fix it, but I'm looking at bi-wing backs, underarm gussets/footballs, or having the sleeves sewn inline with the shoulder for better flexibility. Hopefully, one of these options will let me take out the tighten up the back. Learning a lot about jacket construction from this Fivestar experience. Now, I just have to come up with my next experiment.

Why do you need the sleeves to be at perfect length with your arms up?
Maybe i'm weird but i would think the good old "arms by your side" pose is more common no?

 

[MrProper]

Why do you need the sleeves to be at perfect length with your arms up?
Maybe i'm weird but i would think the good old "arms by your side" pose is more common no?

You need extra long sleeves for the zombie walk, because otherwise it looks like this:

SCNR ;-)

 

[navetsea]

its the bane of 1 piece back I guess

Funny, I once bought these LVC 501 new from the Levi's webshop. Once delivered I noticed the left leg was twisted. Therefore I sent them back and ordered a new pair. Exact same thing: huge twist of the left leg (selvedge in front) View attachment 290365
When I contacted levis, they told me the leg twist was deliberate. Because they were produced to resemble 501 from the 40s, which often had twisted legs (because build quality was poor)

that is just right hand twill unsanforized jeans after pre soak, if you buy it raw you won't see it right away until you wash/ soak it 1st time. I totally hate leg twist, I tolerate it on my only unsanforized pants but never again, there is no denim slubby or hairy enough for me to give a blind eye to twisting leg.

 

[torfjord]

I should wait until I have it in hand, but daaaaaamn I think this looks real promising. Shawn just sent me QC pictures of the trucker jacket they built for me. There´s an issue with the neck hole circumference that we need to iron out, but apart from that they hit all the requested measurements and this turned out even nicer than I hoped for.

edit: neck hole issue was just me misunderstanding one of the QC pictures. All is good, and they nailed every measurement I provided. Now I just pray and hope that I provided enough measurements to get a good fit.

 

[handymike]

You didn’t go for the awesome 70s wrangler collar?

 

[torfjord]

You didn’t go for the awesome 70s wrangler collar?
View attachment 291121

I almost did but I chickened out. Wasn’t 100 % sure on what measurements to provide to make it accurate.

 

[ton312]

I almost did but I chickened out. Wasn’t 100 % sure on what measurements to provide to make it accurate.

Looks awesome man. I saw the pics on FB. Unlined interior looks really well done. Sweet!