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Five Star Leather Jackets

Bahabp100

Practically Family
Messages
849
Somebody asked if Five Star sends QC pictures before shipping which they do. Here are 2 pictures of the original build which had 2 measurements slightly off and then the updated photos of what shipped .
Sleeve 26 to 25 and back 28 to 29 .I don’t know how he does it, the last minute adjustments.
4128AF58-9547-4F92-A936-34A6EC932563.jpeg
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Formeruser012524

One of the Regulars
Messages
215
Shawn from FiveStar is very helpful especially to someone like me who only loves leather jackets but doesn't understand the production process. He took extra time to speak to me today via video call, aside from the already numerous lengthy conversations we've had throughout this process, both over the phone as well as WhatsApp messages and E-Mail. Really great guy, very kind and extremely professional behavior. If things turn out right - which it looks like they will - he will definitely have me as a returning customer.
 

KBlake

One Too Many
Messages
1,866
Shawn from FiveStar is very helpful especially to someone like me who only loves leather jackets but doesn't understand the production process. He took extra time to speak to me today via video call, aside from the already numerous lengthy conversations we've had throughout this process, both over the phone as well as WhatsApp messages and E-Mail. Really great guy, very kind and extremely professional behavior. If things turn out right - which it looks like they will - he will definitely have me as a returning customer.
Can you share some of what you learned?
 

Formeruser012524

One of the Regulars
Messages
215
Can you share some of what you learned?
Being a total amateur, I obviously cannot explain to you things in detail, but the process looks extremely complex, well, like 100x more work than I expected, not only more time consuming but also the skills (and tools) necessary to create the final product. I also met his team, saw parts of my jacket, discussed color/distressing, etc., and also had some "small talk" so to say, afterwards.
 

Formeruser012524

One of the Regulars
Messages
215
I might want to add, details and images are key here, being as specific as possible about absolutely everything. In my case I even added plus/minus tolerances to measurements, some more tight than others. The key is to aim for ultimate specificity in order for him and his team to make the product you desire. Despite that, there will always be something not 100%, well in most if not ALL cases I think. But nonetheless, the more specific and detailed you are, the chances are higher it will be closer to what you want to achieve.
 

KBlake

One Too Many
Messages
1,866
I might want to add, details and images are key here, being as specific as possible about absolutely everything. In my case I even added plus/minus tolerances to measurements, some more tight than others. The key is to aim for ultimate specificity in order for him and his team to make the product you desire. Despite that, there will always be something not 100%, well in most if not ALL cases I think. But nonetheless, the more specific and detailed you are, the chances are higher it will be closer to what you want to achieve.
I have my fourth jacket in the mail and have been completely pleased every step of the way. The value 5* offers is just unmatched, especially if you are particular about measurements and design. Where else can you get a steer hide jacket made to your specifications for $300 and in the mail within a week? Nowhere.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,666
The 2mm horsehide trucker jacket has been given the green light. At least that's how I understood from Shawn's short txt. There were some leather remaining from the FB Y2 coat.

Mean while, the new mid brown horsehide got put through the water test. Machine wash cold quick cycle 30 minutes. Hang dry in room temp. Nothing bad happened. No shrinkage. No peeling of finish. Just a little damp for another day maybe. Dry enough to post my John Mcclane Tom Greer photos.

The mid brown horsehide jacket went though the wash with his Horween half brother. Very different style of leather, but both handled water like champs. The B-10 artificial fur curls just like the real fur collar, more grizzly and less ladies mink fur. That was pleasant surprise.

Shawn's new horsehide is the real deal. Very good stuff. Drapey soft but tough enough to handle the water grind. I can't wait to get the black 2mm version...

IMG_5687.jpg

IMG_5690.jpg

B-10 artificial fur can curl. Grizzly look
IMG_5695.jpg

Irvin look fur collar, add water and watch magic happen
IMG_5696.jpg

Plump seams after the water test. Nice surprise. Thicker leather does this well.
IMG_5703.jpg

Still damp but dry enough for Tom Greer
IMG_5718.JPG
 

KBlake

One Too Many
Messages
1,866
The 2mm horsehide trucker jacket has been given the green light. At least that's how I understood from Shawn's short txt. There were some leather remaining from the FB Y2 coat.

Mean while, the new mid brown horsehide got put through the water test. Machine wash cold quick cycle 30 minutes. Hang dry in room temp. Nothing bad happened. No shrinkage. No peeling of finish. Just a little damp for another day maybe. Dry enough to post my John Mcclane Tom Greer photos.

The mid brown horsehide jacket went though the wash with his Horween half brother. Very different style of leather, but both handled water like champs. The B-10 artificial fur curls just like the real fur collar, more grizzly and less ladies mink fur. That was pleasant surprise.

Shawn's new horsehide is the real deal. Very good stuff. Drapey soft but tough enough to handle the water grind. I can't wait to get the black 2mm version...

View attachment 405484
View attachment 405485
B-10 artificial fur can curl. Grizzly look
View attachment 405486
Irvin look fur collar, add water and watch magic happen
View attachment 405487
Plump seams after the water test. Nice surprise. Thicker leather does this well.
View attachment 405489
Still damp but dry enough for Tom Greer
View attachment 405490
But Why?
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,666
Any FiveStar HB owners have a customized HB that has a more angled back panel? The torso shape is still straight, but the center back panel is more tapered \ /.

Like this one on Instagram:
Image7.jpg


I am thinking of tweaking my next half belt. Same size just different panel dims. This seems like how GW does their Acadia too, to give that extra oomph \ / look without the actual V. But Shawn's HB has higher armholes than my other half belts so I am not sure if tweaking the panel will give me exactly what I am looking for. So just checking to see if any one here has done that tweak to their 5Star HB.

Kinda like the mock up on the right vs the left (current). No change in outer sizing, just the shape of the center back panel to more V. Please post a photo if you got one like this. Thanks.

FiveStar 30s HB 44 Measurements 015.jpg


Getting my CHP jacket today! And the 2mm trucker is going into production!
 

Hobbes1

A-List Customer
Messages
392
Couple of shots of the HH pull-up I recently received from 5*.
I forgot to specify what fabric in the handwarmer pockets. They put the same wool as is in the body of the jacket. I haven't decided if I like it or not . It's warm but a bit scratchy.
 

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KBlake

One Too Many
Messages
1,866
Couple of shots of the HH pull-up I recently received from 5*.
I forgot to specify what fabric in the handwarmer pockets. They put the same wool as is in the body of the jacket. I haven't decided if I like it or not . It's warm but a bit scratchy.
This looks gorgeous. Can you post a pic of the whole thing?
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,666
This post is about Shawn's newest batch of horsehide, and his 1940s LAPD CHP jacket.

1. The newest horsehide from Shawn = Horween Vermont Horsehide
Or
2. Horween Vermont Horsehide = Shawn's newest batch of horsehide.
3. Fur lined cuffs is Storm Cuffs. Why didn't I experience this before.

Many moons ago, before Shawn had any horse hides in stock. I bought some Horween Vermonts in the heavier weight 3.5oz and sent them to him. Tonight, I am reunited with it in the form of his new CHP jacket.

The very first thing I did, was to compare his mid brown horsehide to the Horween. I am quite shocked. The Horween is a darker brown, but everything else is about the same.

IMG_5877.jpg


This is huge for me. HUGE. Prior to this, I've already got a bunch of his premium goats, one not so premium goat, two stiffy CHLs. If I could travel back in time and redo this all over, I only do the premium goat in seal color and rest I do in the new horsehides.

The HB weighs just under 5lbs, and the CHP weights exactly 5lbs. About 0.2lbs difference. Could just be my bathroom scale margin of error. Hand feel and everything else is identical. There is no need to import Horweens.

It seems that Shawn has up'ed his leather game very fast since just a few months ago. I've got his 2mm horsehide coming soon and I cannot wait.

Now about his CHP jacket pattern. I think I got it stock size 42 without belt. Not sure. I have his cycle champ copy. This CHP is shorter but way better pattern in terms of movement. Very big shoulders about 20" with soft padding. Very big P2P about 24" which is similar to the Oakland PD jackets I have. There is also reinforcements in the front bottom band and back beaver tail. Here is the measurements of the size 42. I am quite certain this is stock sizing but best to check with him directly.

chp measurements.jpg


Fit pic with lower waist jeans:
IMG_5786.JPG

IMG_5794.JPG

IMG_5813.JPG


Front fit with regular waist wool trousers:
IMG_5834.JPG


So this pattern is about one inch shorter than my Oakland PD jacket, in the front. This is also definitely not slim fit. With about 6" drop relaxed to 10" drop or more cinched. I am already planning a 2mm horsehide straight zip no beaver tail version. Very comfortable pattern.

Now about the fur lined cuff design. I wish I had this in all my winter jackets, no matter what style. I prefer this over the knit storm cuffs. Very premium design, with the fur.

IMG_5876.jpg


I've also noticed a significant improvement in hardware quality from Shawn. The buckles are now heavy nickle plated solid brass instead of thinner metal ones. I've also asked for the Lightning zipper upgrades. They are only number 8 but very premium feeling.

IMG_5875.jpg

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The two most recent jackets I got from Shawn showed BIG LEAPS since just last year. His goatskin were always premium but that's about it. Now the hardware has been upgraded and new horse hides are in stock. The lines of what is considered premium has been blurred. Big time.
It used to be "There is a lot of value in 5Star jacket, but it's still less than a thousand dollar jacket."
Now it has become, "Why is Shawn selling thousand dollar jacket at less than half the price". This is my opinion.
The website and marketing could still use some improvement. Patterns and styles could also use some upgrade. Although I've found that best results are direct repros/copy from old patterns, not customs. But as far as jacket goes, with the new horsehide options, pound for pound, there is no gap anymore. The new horsehide options really did it.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,666
No it is not stiff. Not at all. Check the drape / fit pic back a few pages. Soft as goatskin, but thicker, and more rustic grains. I compared it to Horween Vermonts, which is a veg retan pigment leather, not stiff like CXL.

Where is the gallery thing in the new forum format?
 

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