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Leathergato

One of the Regulars
Messages
152
How is the mobility for you in this jacket? It looks pretty good to me.

I had a Premier Highwayman and ended up having to sell it even though the fit looked great and it was my correct measurements. There is something about the pattern and the narrow armholes and upper sleeves that for me affected my mobility.

If the mobility is good for you then just be careful if they taper the waist and hem that they don’t take too much off the pit to pit that it affects your mobility in it.

If I had to do it again I would have added shoulder gussets on mine.
 

Tom71

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,057
Location
Europe
Mr Proper is extremely lean and has an very extreme drop from shoulders to waist.. (and either very good with angles or very tall as well). you look athletic, don't get me wrong, but you won't be able to replicate that look to the same extend. But if your goal is this kind of v-shape, here is what to look out for:

-wide shoulders so they look relatively wider to the bottom of the jacket
-the shorter the jacket, the more you can taper it (because your body is leanest at the waist and becomes wider again at your hip. Very strongly v-tapered fitted jackets are usually fairly short because as soon as you have to zip the jacket over your hip bones, it has to be wider at the bottom again.. good example is the Vanson Mercury or Johnson Leather M200: wide shoulders and extreme taper through the body but this only works because the jacket is fairly short with 23-24" back length)

Re: the pictures you posted.. shoulders are okay-ish, I personally like them a big wider, it accentuates that v-shaped look and practically speaking, it makes the jacket more comfortable to wear and move in. Some taper throughout the body from chest down towards waist, probably like -1" in the chest and 2" in the bottom.. so pretty much agree with Carrie here..

All that being said, my tightest jackets are my least worn ones. From my experience you end up wearing what is most comfy and that's usually not the very snug jackets.

Welcome to TFL!

I believe @jacketjunkie gives very good advice, so I just emphasise the main points.
The jacket already is a good fit. The HWM is not meant to be extremely form-fitting, and the pattern of the premier line creates issues with mobility (and versatility) due to the combo of narrow shoulders and high armholes.

I can see a taper of 1” at the hem, but would be extremely cautious with anything more for the reasons @jacketjunkie gives.
You can try to engage the adjuster-straps and see at what point your hips get in the way.

If you feel fine with the overall fit of the jacket, you already have a winner, and with very little adaptions, you’ll get a jacket close to what you’re after.
By design, you’ll have a hard time getting a “real” V—shape or hourglass look out of the HWM (premier or not), as it was always meant to be a boxy work jacket.
 

BloodEagle

Practically Family
Messages
596
Location
UK
Looks like a fantastic fit already to me - I wouldn't try to get it any slimmer fitting, the snugger it is then generally the less comfortable and easy to wear it will be.
 

Bfd70

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,563
Location
Traverse city
Agree with all of the above. It sounds like maybe this is your first high end leather. Super trim jackets that look ***y in photos are rarely comfortable to live in. Particularly if you will wear them zipped. You may also want a bit of ease for seasonal weight fluctuations or layering.
 

Arin666

Familiar Face
Messages
60
Hi all,

This is my first post here - first thank you to everyone who has posted over the years. I have found a wealth of information!

I’m in the process of purchasing an Aero premier highwayman in blackened brown Vicenza through Thurston bros.

I would appreciate feedback on the fit of this fit jacket, which is a size 44.

I am looking for a tailored fit, closer to @MrProper’s PHWM here. (Thank you for all the help so far!)

What do folks think?

My initial thought are that it’s good at the shoulders, too large under the pits and through the waist. Carrie suggested a 2” taper at the hem. Would this be enough to achieve the more tailored look?

Fit video

View attachment 801102
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Its a good fit. Anything more tight at the waist would probably turn out to be uncomfortable in the long run and for regular wear. I wouldnt tighten waist any further.
 

Jasonindenver

One of the Regulars
Messages
197
Location
Denver
Carrie likes to stay true to the form fitting look these jackets were intended to have. This generally means that you will be limited in layering as well as gaining any weight or upper body muscle mass.

Personally, it fits well in the shoulders if you are just wearing over a tee. I would bring it in 1” in the waist but no more.

I would almost want to size up for more shoulder and arm movement and the ability to layer. This would require the 2” reduction in the waist for sure.

For reference, I went up one size in my similar fitting Seven to go for that slimmer look. As time went on, I found it more limiting in wearability due to this. My more relaxed Thedi Nico is the jacket I reach for 90% of the time.

The Vicenza drapes really well once broken in and any excess shoulder room wont look bad IMHO.
 

lina

One Too Many
Messages
1,337
Location
Washington DC
I agree with others that it looks pretty good as is. A two inch taper at waist sounds like potentially too much. I do however think the jacket is a bit long..
 

AttemptingToStyleUp

New in Town
Messages
23
JT-79 from Johnson Leathers. The fit is great at the shoulders, a bit oversized at the chest, and a bit too snug at the hem when zipped up.

jt79-front.jpg


jt79-front-unzipped.jpg


I think the hem needs to be wider by an inch or so to be a perfect fit. Currently, when zipped up, there's bunching at the lower back, which does not look particularly great.

jt79-back-1.jpg


jt79-back-2.jpg


Can that be solved by shortening the jacket by an inch or so? My hips are about as wide as my shoulders, which has proven to be challenging to get the right fit with leather jackets (and only with leather jackets, no other item of clothing has this problem).
 

barnabus

One Too Many
Messages
1,941
Location
Britain's oldest recorded town
JT-79 from Johnson Leathers. The fit is great at the shoulders, a bit oversized at the chest, and a bit too snug at the hem when zipped up.

View attachment 803286

View attachment 803287

I think the hem needs to be wider by an inch or so to be a perfect fit. Currently, when zipped up, there's bunching at the lower back, which does not look particularly great.

View attachment 803288

View attachment 803289

Can that be solved by shortening the jacket by an inch or so? My hips are about as wide as my shoulders, which has proven to be challenging to get the right fit with leather jackets (and only with leather jackets, no other item of clothing has this problem).

Is it for riding?

The length and hem snugness are ideal for that I would have thought.

Plus the extra leather in the kidney area allows leaning forward over the tank.
 

AttemptingToStyleUp

New in Town
Messages
23
Is it for riding?

The length and hem snugness are ideal for that I would have thought.

Plus the extra leather in the kidney area allows leaning forward over the tank.
No, the leather is too thin/supple for that, I think. I don't ride anyway (at least, not right now - I've been thinking about it, though).
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,670
Location
Germany
No, the leather is too thin/supple for that, I think. I don't ride anyway (at least, not right now - I've been thinking about it, though).
The jacket needs to be either wider at the bottom or shorter. I think you should go shorter, it would enhance that v-shape and the jacket is plenty long as is. This kind of style should cover your belt and end right after imho..
 

Team_Feisar

Familiar Face
Messages
64
Took advantage of Aeros 10%-off and decided on a premier Highwayman. My first aero was a regular Highwayman that was way too big in the same size (44) but after getting a better feel for my measurements and their slimmer cuts I decided to give the premier a shot. Honestly could not be happier with the fit. It's very slim but not restricting and gives even my not so super duper manly upper body a great (for me lol) V-shape. I think I even prefer it to the half-belt. I had the shoulder widened by an Inch and shortened the back to 25,5 despite being 6'7 tall for a slightly cropped fit.

20260813_110304.jpg

IMG-20260813-WA0006(1).jpg

IMG-20260813-WA0008(1).jpg

IMG-20260813-WA0011(1).jpg
 
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lina

One Too Many
Messages
1,337
Location
Washington DC
Took advantage of Aeros 10%-off and decided on a premier Highwayman. My first aero was a regular Highwayman that was way too big in the same size (44) but after getting a better feel for my measurements and their slimmer cuts I decided to give the premier a shot. Honestly could not be happier with the fit. It's very slim but not restricting and gives even my not-so-masculine torso a great (for me lol) V-shape. I think I even prefer it to the half-belt. I had the shoulder widened by an Inch and shortened the back to 25,5 despite being 6'7 tall for a slightly cropped fit.

View attachment 803328
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Ooh that’s nice… I’m a sucker for a red lining.
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,670
Location
Germany
Took advantage of Aeros 10%-off and decided on a premier Highwayman. My first aero was a regular Highwayman that was way too big in the same size (44) but after getting a better feel for my measurements and their slimmer cuts I decided to give the premier a shot. Honestly could not be happier with the fit. It's very slim but not restricting and gives even my not-so-masculine torso a great (for me lol) V-shape. I think I even prefer it to the half-belt. I had the shoulder widened by an Inch and shortened the back to 25,5 despite being 6'7 tall for a slightly cropped fit.

View attachment 803328
View attachment 803329
View attachment 803330
View attachment 803331
Imagine being 6‘7 and feeling your appearance is not masculine.. grass is indeed always greener on the other side of the fence, I guess.. :D

Jacket looks great, well done!
 

Team_Feisar

Familiar Face
Messages
64
Imagine being 6‘7 and feeling your appearance is not masculine.. grass is indeed always greener on the other side of the fence, I guess.. :D

Jacket looks great, well done!

:D I would gladly trade some inches for a bigger chest to waist drop. I guess it's really always about what you don't have.
 

lina

One Too Many
Messages
1,337
Location
Washington DC
Took advantage of Aeros 10%-off and decided on a premier Highwayman. My first aero was a regular Highwayman that was way too big in the same size (44) but after getting a better feel for my measurements and their slimmer cuts I decided to give the premier a shot. Honestly could not be happier with the fit. It's very slim but not restricting and gives even my not-so-masculine torso a great (for me lol) V-shape. I think I even prefer it to the half-belt. I had the shoulder widened by an Inch and shortened the back to 25,5 despite being 6'7 tall for a slightly cropped fit.

View attachment 803328
View attachment 803329
View attachment 803330
View attachment 803331
Btw, what pants are those?
 

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