First Tuxedo

[cufflinkmaniac]

Alright,now that I have found some buttons that can be used as waistcoat studs,I'm on the hunt to complete my black tie collection.As I'm on a teenagers budget,I won't be getting the highest quality,but it will suffice.Since I have no events that require black tie (and only a few that require a suit),I'm in no rush,so I'm slowly piecing the ensemble together.


I would prefer a one button peak lapel,but in my price range,the only one I could find that wasn't rental stock is this:

http://www.tuxedosonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=M1BP

It looks nice,but I'm hesitant to go with it as it seems too good to be true.If anyone has any experience with the company,I'd appreciate any advice.


Right now,I'm leaning towards JAB.They have good sales on their dinner jackets,and probably have much better craftsmanship than the company above.I'll either go with the SB shawl (and have the vent sewn up),or the DB.

I'll post questions about the other accessories later,as I don't want to bore everyone.

 

[anglophile]

You may already know about this but www.blacktieguide.com is a must for black tie info.

 

[daizawaguy]

Agree..that guide is great

 

[Edward]

If you're on a budget and not in any great hurry, the best advice I can gi ve is to scour ebay for a genuine vintage piece. In my experience, it is rather easier and cheaper to find a vintage dj and trousers than a lounge suit. Unsurprising, really, given that black tie even then would have had much less frequent ear than a lounge suit, and therefore more will have survived.

Single breasted peak lapels are rarer, but if you're open to being a little flexible on that... Last year I picked up an early 40s db dj and trousers for GBP30 (about sixty dollars US at the time), while just this week I won an auction for a 30s sb shawl collar dj and trousers for only GBP20 (about USD32 at preset, I think). Certainly there always seem to be 40s db djs and trousers around. I'm a 42R and, at present, wear a 38w (trying to reduce that somewhat!). given your younger years and therefore more likely smaller frame than me, the choice of vintage for you will be much wider.

 

[Josephine]

If you're on a budget and not in any great hurry, the best advice I can give is to scour ebay for a genuine vintage piece.

I agree. I found The Husband's tuxedo this way.

 

[Tomasso]

GBP30 (about sixty dollars US at the time) GBP20 (about USD32 at preset).

..........

 

[dhermann1]

If you're young and skinny (in which case I HATE you ) you should be able to find a very nice vintage tux much cheaper than a new one. I got my 1939 to 1949 vintage tux from a fellow Lounger for $90. The quality of the material and workmanship on vintage tuxes is a pleasure to see and feel.
Once you have it, you'll be surprised how many occasions you find where a tux is appropriate enough to throw on.
P.S. The women will SWOON.

 

[Feraud]

If you are not in a rush then take your time to read, learn, and look. Depending on your measurements you can probably find a classic vintage style for a good price.

If you post a few general measurements, someone here might be able to help you.

 

[Edward]

If you're young and skinny (in which case I HATE you ) you should be able to find a very nice vintage tux much cheaper than a new one. I got my 1939 to 1949 vintage tux from a fellow Lounger for $90. The quality of the material and workmanship on vintage tuxes is a pleasure to see and feel.
Once you have it, you'll be surprised how many occasions you find where a tux is appropriate enough to throw on.
P.S. The women will SWOON.

Bingo on all scores! These days, when I enquire about dresscodes, I usually find i'm emailing ahead to check out what my hosts will be wearing so that I don't go too far beyond what they will be.... I love wearing black tie to a club, the only minor irritation being that outside of dedicated vintage / burlesque crowds, there's a tendency to be mistaken for a bouncer. Yeah, even a weedy little thing like me!

 

[cufflinkmaniac]

If you're on a budget and not in any great hurry, the best advice I can gi ve is to scour ebay for a genuine vintage piece. In my experience, it is rather easier and cheaper to find a vintage dj and trousers than a lounge suit. Unsurprising, really, given that black tie even then would have had much less frequent ear than a lounge suit, and therefore more will have survived.

Single breasted peak lapels are rarer, but if you're open to being a little flexible on that... Last year I picked up an early 40s db dj and trousers for GBP30 (about sixty dollars US at the time), while just this week I won an auction for a 30s sb shawl collar dj and trousers for only GBP20 (about USD32 at preset, I think). Certainly there always seem to be 40s db djs and trousers around. I'm a 42R and, at present, wear a 38w (trying to reduce that somewhat!). given your younger years and therefore more likely smaller frame than me, the choice of vintage for you will be much wider.

Trust me,I've looked,but I'm in the "hard to fit",category.I'm 6'2",broad shoulders,people tell me all the time I should be a footbal player.Therefore,vintage does not suit me (pun intended),and most if not all dinner jackets I've seen in my size on there have one or more of the following;notch lapels,two or more buttons,are polyester or poly-wool blends,or are those "Italian designer" models that are as fake as fake can get.Now I did get my shirt studs from eBay,they aren't anything special (I know now that I could have gotten a vintage Krementz set,but I didn't:eusa_doh: ),but they'll do.Anyway,I know now what accessories I want,but that's a different thread.

 

[Josephine]

Trust me,I've looked,but I'm in the "hard to fit",category.I'm 6'2",broad shoulders,people tell me all the time I should be a footbal player.

I would still hold off buying a modern one if you don't need it now and keep trolling eBay. it took me about 9 months to find a suitable tuxedo for The Husband (single button, shawl lapel, 42L, 34W 33L). You might not ever find one that fits on eBay, but I think it would be worth the wait if you do instead of getting a new tux now instead of when you have to.

 

[cufflinkmaniac]

I would still hold off buying a modern one if you don't need it now and keep trolling eBay. it took me about 9 months to find a suitable tuxedo for The Husband (single button, shawl lapel, 42L, 34W 33L). You might not ever find one that fits on eBay, but I think it would be worth the wait if you do instead of getting a new tux now instead of when you have to.

I'll keep looking,maybe I'll get lucky.I was actually planning on buying the tuxedo last (well,next to last,as I'm basing the shirt on the jacket lapels),and accumulating all the necessary accessories first.

 

[dhermann1]

Shoes

A couple of pointers: If you haven't picked this info up already from the Formal Wear threads here on the Lounge, you should try to have at least some plain toe or cap toe oxfords to go with it. I've seen guys in loafers and even Hush Puppies with tuxes, and it was real gag-o-rama. If you want to be very brave, you can look for patent leather opera pumps, with those little bows on the toe. Only for those who are very secure in themselves. Patent leather is definitely preferable to regular leather, but if you give them a real high shine, most people won't object. Another common issue is trouser length. The trousers should NOT break over your foot. The crease should just come straight down. So don't make them too long. And the bow tie should be the same material as the lapels. If you find a jacket with gros grain, that heavily ribbed satin, then look for a gros grain tie. They're definitely harder to find, but it would look cool. And in the meanwhile, practice your bow tie tying.
Post pics when complete!

 

[cufflinkmaniac]

A couple of pointers: If you haven't picked this info up already from the Formal Wear threads here on the Lounge, you should try to have at least some plain toe or cap toe oxfords to go with it. I've seen guys in loafers and even Hush Puppies with tuxes, and it was real gag-o-rama. If you want to be very brave, you can look for patent leather opera pumps, with those little bows on the toe. Only for those who are very secure in themselves. Patent leather is definitely preferable to regular leather, but if you give them a real high shine, most people won't object. Another common issue is trouser length. The trousers should NOT break over your foot. The crease should just come straight down. So don't make them too long. And the bow tie should be the same material as the lapels. If you find a jacket with gros grain, that heavily ribbed satin, then look for a gros grain tie. They're definitely harder to find, but it would look cool. And in the meanwhile, practice your bow tie tying.
Post pics when complete!

I know all about matching tie to facings,I'm actually fairly well educated in this field.Six months ago,I thought a three button notch lapel tuxedo was fine,but now I've seen the light,so to speak.And as much as i would like proper opera pumps,they're a bit out of my price range.I have found these however (not necesarily proper,but better than lace ups,in my opinion),:


http://www.giorgiobrutini.com/catalog/product.cfm?CFID=316398&CFTOKEN=34791431&categoryid=Dress%20Shoes&style=7827&color=1-1&waid=_b

Like I said,not perfect,but budget friendly.At least they have a leather sole.And to my eye,they look alright.Oh,and I can tie my own bow tie.Oddly enough,one of the things I look forward to most is untying the tie at the end of the evening and letting it drape.

 

[David V]

Alright,now that I have found some buttons that can be used as waistcoat studs,I'm on the hunt to complete my black tie collection.As I'm on a teenagers budget,I won't be getting the highest quality,but it will suffice.Since I have no events that require black tie (and only a few that require a suit),I'm in no rush,so I'm slowly piecing the ensemble together.


I would prefer a one button peak lapel,but in my price range,the only one I could find that wasn't rental stock is this:

http://www.tuxedosonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=M1BP

It looks nice,but I'm hesitant to go with it as it seems too good to be true.If anyone has any experience with the company,I'd appreciate any advice.


Right now,I'm leaning towards JAB.They have good sales on their dinner jackets,and probably have much better craftsmanship than the company above.I'll either go with the SB shawl (and have the vent sewn up),or the DB.

I'll post questions about the other accessories later,as I don't want to bore everyone.

This looks like it is rental quality. Basic black wool worsted fabric. No fancy Super 1XXs or mohair. All and all, not a bad choice for the money and you age and needs. It also means that if you need to replace the pants or add a vest the fabric is easy to match.

Heck! It would suit my needs and my son is older than you.

I have those same shoes in calf. Ithink the patent is a fine choice also. Check out ShoeBuy.

 

[Feraud]

It also means that if you need to replace the pants or add a vest the fabric is easy to match.

I've found black material is near impossible to match.

 

[cufflinkmaniac]

I've found black material is near impossible to match.

Doesn't really matter as I was going to use a white pique vest should I get the peak lapel model.

 

[David V]

I've found black material is near impossible to match.

As I said. Basic black worsted used for rental quality formal wear is easy to match. I found that the black worsted suit my son wore in highschool matched the old rental tux I have as if they were cut from the same bolt. I purchased a three button vest from Uniformalwearhouse and it also matched perfectlty.

 

[David V]

Doesn't really matter as I was going to use a white pique vest should I get the peak lapel model.

Get both!

The white is great for when you wear wing collar. With laydown collar the black will work better. Like Super semi-formal and ordinary semi-formal.

If only there were that many opportunities.

 

[cufflinkmaniac]

This looks like it is rental quality. Basic black wool worsted fabric. No fancy Super 1XXs or mohair. All and all, not a bad choice for the money and you age and needs. It also means that if you need to replace the pants or add a vest the fabric is easy to match.

Heck! It would suit my needs and my son is older than you.

I have those same shoes in calf. Ithink the patent is a fine choice also. Check out ShoeBuy.

It says "Super 100's",and I understand rentals are usually Super 80's.It also appears to have sleeve buttons,which I think sets it apart from a rental as they don't have them.My biggest concern is that it may be one of those "too good to be true" things.Now about those shoes,are they any good?Can you give me some specs on them?I've never really been a big fan of patent leather (since it has a plastic coating),so I may go with the calf model as well.