First leather jacket pick?

[Alfhcdd]

I'm currently in college and planning to save up for my first leather jacket as a graduation gift to myself(I just finished freshman so it's still 3 years away but I like some motivation), hopefully something that's good enough to be a heirloom where I can pass down to my kids if I have any someday or wear till I'm old. I currently live in Taiwan so I'm probably not gonna get anything that's gonna cause me a heatstroke in winter. I tried searching up the web and narrowed my choices down to a few, and i was hoping that maybe someone could give me some suggestions. If there's something else that you guys would recommend, feel free to tell me, cause like I said, leather jackets are something that i still have much to learn about. P.S. Some might seem like a bad idea due to the difficulty to break in but i believe that i can do it.
My current considerations:

Good Wear California Ventura (Heard a lot of good stuff about their world war jackets, but not sure about this)
The Flat Head FN-LJ-HS005 (Might need to try it on first if i get the chance to or if I go to Japan)
Rainbow Country Hercules (Heard that it's near impossible to find online, but still able to find in Japan)
The Real Mccoy's Nelson (Currently out of stock, not sure if they'll restock or not though)
Lost World All Weather Jacket(I prefer it over the Sierra for the side buckle)
Lost World Test Jacket (The unique 工 shaped thing on the back looks neat)
Aero Half Belt Deluxe (It looks good but I'm kinda scared that it might make me look like i have a big belly)
Aero Bootlegger (Like the looks a lot but afraid that it might look too flashy or too much when i grow older)
Aero C.H.I.P.S(Same as Bootlegger)

I've included some pictures of me for better reference, I'm 178 cm tall and weigh 105 kg, been hitting the gym for a while and planning to continue further ahead(hopefully i get in better shape), the Carhartt Detroit jacket is XL.

Thanks for helping!!!

 

[Derick_leather]

Just wanted to share that I have a Californian Ventura in size 46 and a The Flat Head SRJ-01 single rider in size 44 in my collection (not the exact model mentioned here, but it's the one I have). Here are some fit pics!

 

[Alfhcdd]

Just wanted to share that I have a Californian Ventura in size 46 and a The Flat Head SRJ-01 single rider in size 44 in my collection (not the exact model mentioned here, but it's the one I have). Here are some fit pics! View attachment 798859 View attachment 798860

they both look fire ngl, thought im kinda curious about their fittings for the arm and chest. Are they more taper or loose

 

[jacketjunkie]

I'm currently in college and planning to save up for my first leather jacket as a graduation gift to myself(I just finished freshman so it's still 3 years away but I like some motivation), hopefully something that's good enough to be a heirloom where I can pass down to my kids if I have any someday or wear till I'm old. I currently live in Taiwan so I'm probably not gonna get anything that's gonna cause me a heatstroke in winter. I tried searching up the web and narrowed my choices down to a few, and i was hoping that maybe someone could give me some suggestions. If there's something else that you guys would recommend, feel free to tell me, cause like I said, leather jackets are something that i still have much to learn about. P.S. Some might seem like a bad idea due to the difficulty to break in but i believe that i can do it.
My current considerations:

Good Wear California Ventura (Heard a lot of good stuff about their world war jackets, but not sure about this)
The Flat Head FN-LJ-HS005 (Might need to try it on first if i get the chance to or if I go to Japan)
Rainbow Country Hercules (Heard that it's near impossible to find online, but still able to find in Japan)
The Real Mccoy's Nelson (Currently out of stock, not sure if they'll restock or not though)
Lost World All Weather Jacket(I prefer it over the Sierra for the side buckle)
Lost World Test Jacket (The unique 工 shaped thing on the back looks neat)
Aero Half Belt Deluxe (It looks good but I'm kinda scared that it might make me look like i have a big belly)
Aero Bootlegger (Like the looks a lot but afraid that it might look too flashy or too much when i grow older)
Aero C.H.I.P.S(Same as Bootlegger)

I've included some pictures of me for better reference, I'm 178 cm tall and weigh 105 kg, been hitting the gym for a while and planning to continue further ahead(hopefully i get in better shape), the Carhartt Detroit jacket is XL.

Thanks for helping!!!
View attachment 798855 View attachment 798856 View attachment 798857 View attachment 798858

Get a Lost Worlds if you want a comfortable jacket that you can hand down to your children. I strongly believe all this Japanese Tea-Core "my 3 days old jacket looks 50 years old" hype is very temporary, I wouldn't go for that with a heritage piece. I wouldn't go with Aero due to pattern issues.

Goodwear is great of course, but good luck getting one.

 

[Alfhcdd]

Get a Lost Worlds if you want a comfortable jacket that you can hand down to your children. I strongly believe all this Japanese Tea-Core "my 3 days old jacket looks 50 years old" hype is very temporary, I wouldn't go for that with a heritage piece. I wouldn't go with Aero due to pattern issues.

Goodwear is great of course, but good luck getting one.

Wait, what do you mean by good luck getting goodwear? I thought you can still order them?

 

[jacketjunkie]

Wait, what do you mean by good luck getting goodwear? I thought you can still order them?

Yes, you can. There are people for whom it took 4-5 years to receive theirs, though.

 

[Alfhcdd]

Yes, you can. There are people for whom it took 4-5 years to receive theirs, though.

I'm in no hurries. So i think that still seems like a viable pick. Also kinda curious bout the patterns, any Aero patterns that you'd recommend me?

 

[jacketjunkie]

I'm in no hurries. So i think that still seems like a viable pick. Also kinda curious bout the patterns, any Aero patterns that you'd recommend me?

Every Aero jacket I owned look fantastic and felt horrible to wear, constant neck pain and bad range of motion. Their patterns apparently work for some people, but the square shoulders and tiny neck holes don't do it for me and despite what some people say, this is not a problem with thick leather, I own much heavier jackets by other makers where such problems never occured,

 

[Alfhcdd]

Every Aero jacket I owned look fantastic and felt horrible to wear, constant neck pain and bad range of motion. Their patterns apparently work for some people, but the square shoulders and tiny neck holes don't do it for me and despite what some people say, this is not a problem with thick leather, I own much heavier jackets by other makers where such problems never occured,

If that's the case i might have to be careful of them cause i got a big neck.

 

[Derick_leather]

Get a Lost Worlds if you want a comfortable jacket that you can hand down to your children. I strongly believe all this Japanese Tea-Core "my 3 days old jacket looks 50 years old" hype is very temporary, I wouldn't go for that with a heritage piece. I wouldn't go with Aero due to pattern issues.

Goodwear is great of course, but good luck getting one.

I think you’re absolutely right. Good Wear is excellent, but getting one can be a real challenge—my friend John Chapman can be pretty hard to reach sometimes, unfortunately.


The Flat Head’s construction is also excellent, but the teacore shows through very quickly. I assume that’s intentional, though it may not be to everyone’s taste.


I own a few Lost Worlds jackets as well, and no matter how much I wear them, they still look almost exactly as they did the day Stuart shipped them to me!

 

[Derick_leather]

they both look fire ngl, thought im kinda curious about their fittings for the arm and chest. Are they more taper or loose

Both are tapered through the chest and arms, but the Good Wear feels a little more comfortable, while the Flat Head fits noticeably tighter. It could partly be a sizing issue, but judging from my other Good Wear jackets, I think there is a genuine difference in the patterns.

 

[Zoro]

I know what being in college (and broke) is, but you're planning to start with an endgame jacket.

I don't want to talk you out of that as a graduation gift, but I do want to talk you out of that as your first leather jacket. Being in Taiwan and thus so close to China, I would recommend going through Taobao and getting some cheaper jackets in similar styles as the ones you like, which is 10-20 times cheaper than the ones you've mentioned.

Having a cheaper one would also help you on measurements. You should measure yourself and get your chest size, but if you get a good fitting cheaper jacket that's, say, 24" pit to pit, then you may possibly go off that measurement to find your size on others. And on top of that, figure out if that style actually works for you or not (I see you mostly want single riders, but also added a crosszip). As you said you have a lot of learn about leather jackets, best to learn first hand

Also, it does seem that you've basically narrowed it down to "what are the most expensive ones". Vanson may not be as expensive, but they do quality products. At the same time, I ignore how easily available is Vanson over there, but it would be a 2-5 times cheaper jacket while not being half the jacket as the ones you've mentioned, so it might also be a good "test jacket" with good potential to become a mainstay of your collection.

 

[dthieu86]

I'm really happy to hear your story. In many ways, it reminds me of myself when I was a university student.
That said, buying an expensive jacket as your very first leather jacket can sometimes come with hidden risks. It may turn out not to be the jacket you imagined, or it could be so good that you lose the desire to explore anything else afterward. Sometimes, reaching the destination too quickly isn't as rewarding as enjoying the journey—experiencing different brands, from more affordable makers to the high-end ones, and discovering what truly suits your taste along the way.

Based on the measurements you've shared, I think European brands such as Thedi or Aero, as well as American makers like Schott and Vanson, might be a better starting point. Their patterns generally have broader shoulders and a roomier upper body, so depending on the fit you're after, you'll probably be somewhere between a size 44 and 46.

To be sure, I'd recommend measuring a jacket that already fits you well—your Carhartt Detroit, for example. Take the shoulder, chest (pit-to-pit), back length, sleeve length, and, if possible, the upper arm measurement. Having those reference measurements will make it much easier to find a leather jacket that fits the way you want.
Many Japanese brands tend to use slimmer sleeve patterns, especially around the biceps, so they may not be the best match if you have a larger chest and arms from weight training.

I hope this helps, and I look forward to seeing photos of your first leather jacket. It's always a special piece—one you'll probably remember for many years.

Best of luck with your search!

Hieu

 

[Harris HTM]

European brands such as Thedi

a roomier upper body,

Based purely on my experience with Thedi I would say this is not the case

 

[Alfhcdd]

I know what being in college (and broke) is, but you're planning to start with an endgame jacket.

I don't want to talk you out of that as a graduation gift, but I do want to talk you out of that as your first leather jacket. Being in Taiwan and thus so close to China, I would recommend going through Taobao and getting some cheaper jackets in similar styles as the ones you like, which is 10-20 times cheaper than the ones you've mentioned.

Having a cheaper one would also help you on measurements. You should measure yourself and get your chest size, but if you get a good fitting cheaper jacket that's, say, 24" pit to pit, then you may possibly go off that measurement to find your size on others. And on top of that, figure out if that style actually works for you or not (I see you mostly want single riders, but also added a crosszip). As you said you have a lot of learn about leather jackets, best to learn first hand

Also, it does seem that you've basically narrowed it down to "what are the most expensive ones". Vanson may not be as expensive, but they do quality products. At the same time, I ignore how easily available is Vanson over there, but it would be a 2-5 times cheaper jacket while not being half the jacket as the ones you've mentioned, so it might also be a good "test jacket" with good potential to become a mainstay of your collection.

Thanks for the reply. I did check vanson out as my 3rd brand if I remember correctly, but they didn't reach the final list due to the back design. Somehow i found out i like halfbelts or something complex midway. Still a nice brand ngl. And yes, I did plan to treat myself to an endgame jacket as my first one cause I've been through some different stuff and always at the end i just wished i got the one i bought last sooner(includes boots, multitools, watches, etc). Another part is that I always prefer something that lasts as long as possible on my hands, and I'm looking forward the same way for my first leather jacket. It's kinda weird but i guess that's how nostalgia works.

 

[Alfhcdd]

I'm really happy to hear your story. In many ways, it reminds me of myself when I was a university student.
That said, buying an expensive jacket as your very first leather jacket can sometimes come with hidden risks. It may turn out not to be the jacket you imagined, or it could be so good that you lose the desire to explore anything else afterward. Sometimes, reaching the destination too quickly isn't as rewarding as enjoying the journey—experiencing different brands, from more affordable makers to the high-end ones, and discovering what truly suits your taste along the way.

Based on the measurements you've shared, I think European brands such as Thedi or Aero, as well as American makers like Schott and Vanson, might be a better starting point. Their patterns generally have broader shoulders and a roomier upper body, so depending on the fit you're after, you'll probably be somewhere between a size 44 and 46.

To be sure, I'd recommend measuring a jacket that already fits you well—your Carhartt Detroit, for example. Take the shoulder, chest (pit-to-pit), back length, sleeve length, and, if possible, the upper arm measurement. Having those reference measurements will make it much easier to find a leather jacket that fits the way you want.
Many Japanese brands tend to use slimmer sleeve patterns, especially around the biceps, so they may not be the best match if you have a larger chest and arms from weight training.

I hope this helps, and I look forward to seeing photos of your first leather jacket. It's always a special piece—one you'll probably remember for many years.

Best of luck with your search!

Hieu

Thanks for the recommendations. I did check out Thedi but ruled them out due to not really liking the too artistic style. I'm looking for something that doesn't scream attention yet still feels refined enought and hopefully has an artifact feeling when I progress older. I explained my reason for not considering the Vanson in the reply above. And I've yet to dive deep into Schott. Heard a lot of good stuff from them but i thought they did best in double racers like the perfecto and the cafe racer jacket. Already did pick out a few Aero, somehow i got hightly interested in a few special designs rather than the single racers. And I'll make sure to go get my measurements. (Gonna check out Schott asap)

PS I'm also interested in the Aero Highwayman and the Zip Sleeve Highwayman
PPS Just finished checking out Schott, the 464 and 543 caught my eye, both seems nice, but I'm not sure the comparison of waxy buffalo, bison and horsehide.

 

[Alfhcdd]

Both are tapered through the chest and arms, but the Good Wear feels a little more comfortable, while the Flat Head fits noticeably tighter. It could partly be a sizing issue, but judging from my other Good Wear jackets, I think there is a genuine difference in the patterns.

Thanks, I'll take that into account

 

[Zoro]

Thanks for the reply. I did check vanson out as my 3rd brand if I remember correctly, but they didn't reach the final list due to the back design. Somehow i found out i like halfbelts or something complex midway. Still a nice brand ngl. And yes, I did plan to treat myself to an endgame jacket as my first one cause I've been through some different stuff and always at the end i just wished i got the one i bought last sooner(includes boots, multitools, watches, etc). Another part is that I always prefer something that lasts as long as possible on my hands, and I'm looking forward the same way for my first leather jacket. It's kinda weird but i guess that's how nostalgia works.

Thing is that even the Chinese jackets should last you a lifetime. Even mall brand jackets! I would still encourage you to reconsider, not against getting an endgame jacket, simply about making it the first one.

 

[Alfhcdd]

Thing is that even the Chinese jackets should last you a lifetime. Even mall brand jackets! I would still encourage you to reconsider, not against getting an endgame jacket, simply about making it the first one.

If that's the case, I'll take that into consider. Makes sense from a logical standpoint ngl

 

[Alfhcdd]

I think you’re absolutely right. Good Wear is excellent, but getting one can be a real challenge—my friend John Chapman can be pretty hard to reach sometimes, unfortunately.


The Flat Head’s construction is also excellent, but the teacore shows through very quickly. I assume that’s intentional, though it may not be to everyone’s taste.


I own a few Lost Worlds jackets as well, and no matter how much I wear them, they still look almost exactly as they did the day Stuart shipped them to me!

By the way, I was hoping that i could get something that looks better with wear and feel like it has history and been through stuff. Does that mean the lost world just keeps the same look for eternity? Or do you mean by the construction is super sturdy.