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Finds and Deals - Leather Jacket Edition

Leigh H

Practically Family
Messages
697
Location
Brighton
IMG_4587.jpeg


40s straight zip police jacket

Seller thinks it’s a Starglove but I’m not so sure?

https://ebay.us/m/E6TV0a
 

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,151
Location
Philadelphia
I see your point of view. The black jackets you posted were produced by CSC for other companies. The images of the jacket you posted look like CSC because of the construction methods and features such as sleeve and cuff constructions and belt loops, to name a few obvious samples of CSC work. I even question the labels being original to the jacket.

Sorry bud, these labels are original to the jackets. These are Albert Richard jackets, NOT California Sportswear. You haven’t even seen the backs lol.

Here’s the first one.

IMG_7769.jpeg
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IMG_7773.jpeg


Nothing about this jacket is CSC, not the design, not the cut, not the cuff shape, not the collar shape, not the back design, not the buckles…nothing except that they both employ the double stitches on the pockets.

Here’s the second one.

IMG_8850.jpeg
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As with the first one above…nothing about this jacket is CSC.

Here’s the last one. Again, not a CSC.

IMG_7694.jpeg



And here’s yet another example.

IMG_7722.jpeg



I just showed you 4 Albert Richard jackets that have the labels and employ the double stitch. All the labels are original to the jackets. None of them are made by CSC. They are all made by Fried Osterman under their Albert Richard label.

If you want to deny the fact these labels are original to the jackets, that’s on you.

Let me start with the black police jackets. Those were made by CSC. I have the originals with the CSC labels. One easy giveaway on the black one with the Lewis tag, which is original to the jacket, is that it was not made by them.

What’s the easy giveaway???

They contracted it from CSC. More evidence is the lining, which is the same lining used by CSC. LOL. It even has Made in Los Angeles.

Not the same lining. Also, so what?? There were tons of jackets made in Los Angeles during that time period.

Lewis Holsters and Letaher Goods was a maker. They have a small cult following in the side arm community for their holsters. They made their own jackets. CSC did not make jackets for them. Can’t post more pics but look at the design…they look nothing like a CSC…not even the double stitch construction technique around the pockets!

Regarding the ones with the AR labels, they appear a little suspicious to me.
What do you think…I’m photoshopping those labels on there?!

The black one with the plaid looks like a Californian due to the sleeves, cuffs, collar, and stitching. The lining was repaired, and the label was reattached with a different sewing machine and stitch in different spacing than the rest of the jacket. The zipper and other areas have been repaired.
Sorry bud. Label is original to the jacket. It’s an Albert Richard lol. You can say the label doesn’t belong all you want…you’re wrong.

The black one with solid lining. Is an exact Californian replica down to stitching and the element designs of the CSC collar, sleeves, cuffs, and shoulder spacing and symmetry?
No it isn’t. Not even close!

The stitching was made on a CSC machine, just like the other black ones. HOWEVER, this model I have seen in the flesh and in an original 1939 catalog. IT IS AN ALBERT RICHARD MADE FOR THEM BY CSC.
CSC never made jackets for Albert Richard

Brown Jacket. It is a CSC.
Wrong!

This one is the easiest to spot right away. Just look at the stitching and thread. Very few companies utilized such spacing. Californians often used that contrasting thread that made a very distinct feature in the leather/thread penetration. Regarding the label, it appears to be placed in the wrong location, and it appears to be replaced but with a different machine.

In my view, those AR-labeled jackets appear questionable but one.
Lol

That black one with solid black lining is made by CSC for AR.
Nope, wrong.

Besides, how many other companies can incorporate such a unique method in jacket manufacturing? Not even a well-recognized modern companies have reproduced the double-pocket stitching like CSC did.
Tons and tons.

Why is it so hard for you to acknowledge that many makers used this double stitching around the pocket? Old Becks and Schotts have it, old Leathertogs have it, pretty much any old car coat or barnstormer have it too. Block Bilt also used the double stitch. You gunna tell me they didn’t make their own jackets and that CSC made their jackets for them??

Lastly, I contacted Jauregui, who worked in the industry when CSC was at its height in manufacturing. He is a wealth of information and is by far more knowledgeable than me.
Oh well that settles it now doesn’t it? Lol!!
 

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blm14

A-List Customer
Messages
460
Location
nyc
get a room you two :p

Here's a nice size 40 burgundy walter dyer vest. It has the signature version of the label, which makes it an earlier example. Buy it now $60!

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Bluechel

One Too Many
Messages
1,043

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,906
Location
Illinois
Sorry bud, these labels are original to the jackets. These are Albert Richard jackets, NOT California Sportswear. You haven’t even seen the backs lol.

Here’s the first one.

View attachment 703428 View attachment 703429 View attachment 703430 View attachment 703431

Nothing about this jacket is CSC, not the design, not the cut, not the cuff shape, not the collar shape, not the back design, not the buckles…nothing except that they both employ the double stitches on the pockets.

Here’s the second one.

View attachment 703432 View attachment 703433 View attachment 703434

As with the first one above…nothing about this jacket is CSC.

Here’s the last one. Again, not a CSC.

View attachment 703435


And here’s yet another example.

View attachment 703437


I just showed you 4 Albert Richard jackets that have the labels and employ the double stitch. All the labels are original to the jackets. None of them are made by CSC. They are all made by Fried Osterman under their Albert Richard label.

If you want to deny the fact these labels are original to the jackets, that’s on you.



What’s the easy giveaway???



Not the same lining. Also, so what?? There were tons of jackets made in Los Angeles during that time period.

Lewis Holsters and Letaher Goods was a maker. They have a small cult following in the side arm community for their holsters. They made their own jackets. CSC did not make jackets for them. Can’t post more pics but look at the design…they look nothing like a CSC…not even the double stitch construction technique around the pockets!


What do you think…I’m photoshopping those labels on there?!


Sorry bud. Label is original to the jacket. It’s an Albert Richard lol. You can say the label doesn’t belong all you want…you’re wrong.


No it isn’t. Not even close!


CSC never made jackets for Albert Richard


Wrong!


Lol


Nope, wrong.


Tons and tons.

Why is it so hard for you to acknowledge that many makers used this double stitching around the pocket? Old Becks and Schotts have it, old Leathertogs have it, pretty much any old car coat or barnstormer have it too. Block Bilt also used the double stitch. You gunna tell me they didn’t make their own jackets and that CSC made their jackets for them??


Oh well that settles it now doesn’t it? Lol!!
The original AR jacket that started this discussion has a union tag. CSC was not a union shop. Albert Richard was their own brand made by Osterman. The do no look like CSC jackets at all. CSC was probably the largest maker/supplier of leather sportswear in the world during their prime. That is all they made.

one I owned.

https://goo.gl/photos/etPKv8jWggpncmpE7
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,585
Location
claremont california
Sorry bud, these labels are original to the jackets. These are Albert Richard jackets, NOT California Sportswear. You haven’t even seen the backs lol.

Here’s the first one.

View attachment 703428 View attachment 703429 View attachment 703430 View attachment 703431

Nothing about this jacket is CSC, not the design, not the cut, not the cuff shape, not the collar shape, not the back design, not the buckles…nothing except that they both employ the double stitches on the pockets.

Here’s the second one.

View attachment 703432 View attachment 703433 View attachment 703434

As with the first one above…nothing about this jacket is CSC.

Here’s the last one. Again, not a CSC.

View attachment 703435


And here’s yet another example.

View attachment 703437


I just showed you 4 Albert Richard jackets that have the labels and employ the double stitch. All the labels are original to the jackets. None of them are made by CSC. They are all made by Fried Osterman under their Albert Richard label.

If you want to deny the fact these labels are original to the jackets, that’s on you.



What’s the easy giveaway???



Not the same lining. Also, so what?? There were tons of jackets made in Los Angeles during that time period.

Lewis Holsters and Letaher Goods was a maker. They have a small cult following in the side arm community for their holsters. They made their own jackets. CSC did not make jackets for them. Can’t post more pics but look at the design…they look nothing like a CSC…not even the double stitch construction technique around the pockets!


What do you think…I’m photoshopping those labels on there?!


Sorry bud. Label is original to the jacket. It’s an Albert Richard lol. You can say the label doesn’t belong all you want…you’re wrong.


No it isn’t. Not even close!


CSC never made jackets for Albert Richard


Wrong!


Lol


Nope, wrong.


Tons and tons.

Why is it so hard for you to acknowledge that many makers used this double stitching around the pocket? Old Becks and Schotts have it, old Leathertogs have it, pretty much any old car coat or barnstormer have it too. Block Bilt also used the double stitch. You gunna tell me they didn’t make their own jackets and that CSC made their jackets for them??


Oh well that settles it now doesn’t it? Lol!!
Wow, I will not be drawn to this. This is my last post responding to your comments. There were no "tons" of leather makers reproducing the CSC unique pocket technique on their garments. You did not give facts to support your views. Like you, I saw some of those jackets you post in the flesh at the Pasadena events. I however, included my jacket representing the CSC double stitching. Fried Osterman did make jackets for the Albert Richard label and others, including the government. However, their wheelhouse designs were oriented towards heavy, longer coats. To this day, I have never seen a Fried Osterman jacket with the CSC double stitching pockets.
Albert Richard was a brand, not a leather garment maker. Since AR did not manufacture garments, you and I do not know how many companies AR contracted to complete their merchandise catalog.

I do not agree that other makers incorporated this unique way csc produced their pocket stitching. In my years of experience working with Industrial sewing machines, garment restorer at aviation museums, I have learned to understand how garments can be put together, this knowledge is essential to comprehend when repairing garments. Furthermore, my 30 years of experience in repairing all kinds of sewing machines allows me the opportunity to understand how stitching and thread impact the finish look in fabrics and leather.

Moreover, with the advantage of the internet and fast shipping, companies have a leg up in manufacturing competition. Unlike, companies in the 40s who had a very difficult time trying to see how their competitors were progressing. Even with all the modern time advantages, I have not seen the same CSC double stitching details in any repros. The modern double stitching in repros look excellent, but they are created and finish different. Several come close to look like CSC, but construction techniques are clearly different. Having stated that, It is nearly impossible that a prewar company in Wisconsin can step by step complete and develop this very same unique features of a Californian company.
I have used several different aviation garments utilizing the double stitching pockets. This technique is widely used by the military industries. BUT, there are different and finish different, some are stronger than others. I would admit they have improved over the CSC methods by adding additional supports at different locations.


Lastly, you do not give specific garment construction methods to support your views. You mention Becks, Schott,Block Bilt, but I fail to understand why you do not provide any images showing that CSC techniques in those makers.
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,585
Location
claremont california
View attachment 703312

40s straight zip police jacket

Seller thinks it’s a Starglove but I’m not so sure?

https://ebay.us/m/E6TV0a
Such a cool jacket! No belt loops, batch holder or Epaulettes? Maybe a custom job? Very nice! The lining does not appear that shinny like some of the older Cals. I want to incline to Starglove, at any rate, For the price it sold, it is worth it in my book.
 
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Bluechel

One Too Many
Messages
1,043
Such a cool jacket! No bell loops, batch holder or Epaulettes? Maybe a custom job? Very nice! The lining does not appear that shinny like some of the older Cals. I want to incline to Starglove, at any rate, For the price it sold, it is worth it in my book.
Not sure whether is was a Star, but that’s a very reasonable price when compared to almost any other jacket maker’s price for new Stuff.
 

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