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Finds and Deals - Leather Jacket Edition

jeo

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Philadelphia
Inte

and stars, makes me think this is the second edition as percussor to the Red lined 3rd edition which all have stars.

is there a picture of the interior/label?

A collector told me that the one I pictured with no snaps on the top collar is the first edition of the early Durables. Unfortunately no pics of the interior or label of that one.

It does have stars. Zoom in.

Note how the belt gets slimmer towards the front kind of like a Beck 333. None of the other ones are like that.

There are early editions without stars like this one below. Has the snaps on top collar and a green quilt lining. First label.

IMG-0467.PNG




The early ones all have a green quilt lining and the same first edition label. The one below with a (most likley replaced) black quilt lining has stars.



IMG-9555.JPG

IMG-9563.JPG

IMG-9846.jpg




Then there's this one. Doesn't have zipper welts. Has the snaps on the top collar and has the green quilt lining with the first label. Does not have stars. The snaps are all pitted except for one which is super neat.



IMG-0468.PNG



(Edited for mistakes)
 
Last edited:

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,983
A collector told me that the one I pictured with no snaps on the top collar is the first edition of the early Durables. Unfortunately no pics of the interior or label of that one.

It does have stars. Zoom in.

Note how the belt gets slimmer towards the front kind of like a Beck 333. None of the other ones are like that.

There are early editions without stars like this one below. Has the snaps on top collar and a red quilt lining. First label.

View attachment 522965



The early ones all have either a red or black quilt lining and the same first edition label. These ones below with the black quilt linings all have stars.



View attachment 522971
View attachment 522972
View attachment 522973



Then there's this one. Doesn't have zipper welts. Only one I've ever seen like that. Has the snaps on the top collar and has the red quilt lining with the first label. Does not have stars. The snaps are all pitted except for one which is super neat.



View attachment 522975

This last one is remarkably similar to the late 40s Indian Ranger in its cut, trim and details including the oversized collar. The patch pocket looks more like the late 50s model.
 
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Observe

One Too Many
Messages
1,208
A collector told me that the one I pictured with no snaps on the top collar is the first edition of the early Durables. Unfortunately no pics of the interior or label of that one.

It does have stars. Zoom in.

Note how the belt gets slimmer towards the front kind of like a Beck 333. None of the other ones are like that.

There are early editions without stars like this one below. Has the snaps on top collar and a red quilt lining. First label.

View attachment 522965



The early ones all have either a red or black quilt lining and the same first edition label. These ones below with the black quilt linings all have stars.



View attachment 522971
View attachment 522972
View attachment 522973



Then there's this one. Doesn't have zipper welts. Only one I've ever seen like that. Has the snaps on the top collar and has the red quilt lining with the first label. Does not have stars. The snaps are all pitted except for one which is super neat.



View attachment 522975
I love the look of this with the waistband panel on the bottom.
 
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tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,750
Location
Illinois
Indeed, the collar and most notably not having zipper welts.

View attachment 522985
I see no similarities.

I would say this is the first edition. Green lining first no stars, geen lining with stars, then black with stars, then red with stars. Along the line the belt line was discontinued.

Makes more sense to me that the model would start as basic (plain) no stars and add the adornments (stars) as the model progressed.

Not sure how to account for the missing upper snaps
 
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tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,750
Location
Illinois
I would say the black lining above is not original. No wear, too puffy, on a well worn jacket. Now that makes sense.

Until an original black lining appears I'm crossing the Black off. Went from the green to the Red in my thinking.

The non welted pockets on the green lined jacket are odd.

Are there pictures of another black lined Durable?

I doubt the green lining lasted long. Mine has a 40s zipper stop and a 50s pull. This is often seen. I just call it 1950. The Red Nylon came around by 1951 and it was the thing among many makers. Just says 50s no matter the maker.

I have a pet theory that I'm wrestling with, based on the two jackets I pictured above.
 
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jeo

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2,074
Location
Philadelphia
I see no similarities.

The similarities were just in the spread collar and lack of zipper welt details, otherwise the jackets look nothing alike.

I would say this is the first edition. Green lining first no stars, geen lining with stars, then black with stars, then red with stars. Along the line the belt line was discontinued.

Makes more sense to me that the model would start as basic (plain) no stars and add the adornments (stars) as the model progressed.

Definitely makes sense.

Not sure how to account for the missing upper snaps

I bet the jacket without the upper collar snaps had a green lining and who knows, maybe the stars were added. If so, that would make it even more basic.

These 2 look like Durables, feel like Durables View attachment 522988

View attachment 522989

The one instantly recognizable thing about a Durable is the bottom collar that has more of a downward angle than most other ‘W’ collars creating a bigger gap between the upper and lower collar. If Durable has a trademark, that's it and to me these Spiegels look nothing like a Durable.

I would say the black lining above is not original. No wear, too puffy, on a well worn jacket. Now that makes sense.

You're right, it probably was a replacement and I've edited my post above.

Until an original black lining appears I'm crossing the Black off. Went from the green to the Red in my thinking. Are there pictures of another black lined Durable?

Not with a label and what are likely replacement liners just like the first one I posted like this one below.


IMG_1433.jpeg


The non welted pockets on the green lined jacket are odd.

I found two others. This first one has what looks to be a replacement liner and also has pitted snaps.


IMG_1432.jpeg


001.jpg


I have a pet theory that I'm wrestling with, based on the two jackets I pictured above.
Would love to hear it.

Perhaps Durable was private label?

I found a Japanese collector that has all types of Durable style MC jackets but with other labels in them, some stores, some manufacturers. Most of the pictures in my recent posts are from his collection.

Knopf

IMG-0459.PNG



Donald S. Lavigne

IMG-0460.PNG

IMG-0462.PNG


Johnny Farrel Sportswear Davega

IMG-0470.PNG


South Fashion C (something) Stores

IMG-0465.PNG


Genuine American Leather Sportswear by American Sportswear Co.

IMG-0461.PNG



There was also a sheepskin with a Durable label

IMG-0469.PNG
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,750
Location
Illinois
The similarities were just in the spread collar and lack of zipper welt details, otherwise the jackets look nothing alike.



Definitely makes sense.



I bet the jacket without the upper collar snaps had a green lining and who knows, maybe the stars were added. If so, that would make it even more basic.



The one instantly recognizable thing about a Durable is the bottom collar that has more of a downward angle than most other ‘W’ collars creating a bigger gap between the upper and lower collar. If Durable has a trademark, that's it and to me these Spiegels look nothing like a Durable.



You're right, it probably was a replacement and I've edited my post above.



Not with a label and what are likely replacement liners just like the first one I posted like this one below.


View attachment 523027



I found two others. This first one has what looks to be a replacement liner and also has pitted snaps.


View attachment 523026

View attachment 523025


Would love to hear it.

Perhaps Durable was private label?

I found a Japanese collector that has all types of Durable style MC jackets but with other labels in them, some stores, some manufacturers. Most of the pictures in my recent posts are from his collection.

Knopf

View attachment 523032


Donald S. Lavigne

View attachment 523033
View attachment 523034

Johnny Farrel Sportswear Davega

View attachment 523035

South Fashion C (something) Stores

View attachment 523036

Genuine American Leather Sportswear by American Sportswear Co.

View attachment 523038


There was also a sheepskin with a Durable label

View attachment 523037
Fascinating, much to digest. thanks for this effort!!
 

Peacoat

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Bartender
Messages
6,461
Location
South of Nashville
Great discussion full of information that should be memorialized in the thread "threads of the past" or a dedicated Durable thread, should @Peacoat move those @tmitchell59 and @jeo posts?
I like the idea of a dedicated Durable thread, but I don't like the amount of time it would take to move all of those posts into that thread.. Let me think about it.
 

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,074
Location
Philadelphia
Great discussion full of information that should be memorialized in the thread "threads of the past" or a dedicated Durable thread, should @Peacoat move those @tmitchell59 and @jeo posts?
I like the idea of a dedicated Durable thread, but I don't like the amount of time it would take to move all of those posts into that thread.. Let me think about it.

I’ll duplicate my two posts in the Durable thread quoting @tmitchell59 for context.
 

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