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Do try this at home: leather jacket repair tips

newtojackets

One Too Many
Messages
1,472
I’m thinking of dying this leather jacket. Don’t worry, it was a cheap one, so I’m not worried about taking a risk.

I have another red jacket in this exact shade, so want to get something closer to oxblood / horween #8. Any thoughts on how to best proceed?

Read here to start with acetone and then switch to a leather dye?
IMG_2618.jpeg
 
Messages
18,089
I’ve probably dyed 20 plus jackets with varying degrees of success. If you are staying in the same color family (which it seems you are) you don’t need acetone. Strip the topcoat with rubbing alcohol and use a brown shade to darken the red. Or buy the cordo from Fieblings. Dilute the dye with alcohol and test a swatch until you find the right shade. Bear in mind that too much dye will turn the color to silver so dilute, dilute, dilute.


Or leave it alone.
 

newtojackets

One Too Many
Messages
1,472
I’ve probably dyed 20 plus jackets with varying degrees of success. If you are staying in the same color family (which it seems you are) you don’t need acetone. Strip the topcoat with rubbing alcohol and use a brown shade to darken the red. Or buy the cordo from Fieblings. Dilute the dye with alcohol and test a swatch until you find the right shade. Bear in mind that too much dye will turn the color to silver so dilute, dilute, dilute.


Or leave it alone.
Great advice- I’m trying to gauge whether to go for Fiebing’s dark red, maroon or oxblood, any suggestions?

When you say dilute, you mean with the same rubbing alcohol?

Finally, my understanding is alcohol removes any sealant from the leather? Does that mean I need to apply a topcoat after the dye?
 
Messages
18,089
Great advice- I’m trying to gauge whether to go for Fiebing’s dark red, maroon or oxblood, any suggestions?

When you say dilute, you mean with the same rubbing alcohol?

Finally, my understanding is alcohol removes any sealant from the leather? Does that mean I need to apply a topcoat after the dye?
Indeed. 1 part dye to 3 parts alcohol. Leather dye evaporates quickly so you need to work somewhat fast. You will absolutely need a topcoat. Don’t do it right away. Wait at least a week. Go slowly over multiple coats. If you go balls to the wall out of the gate your jacket will turn metallic silver green and you’ll throw it away. I would just get the cordovan from fieblings and not try to science it. If you want red brown, get that.
 

newtojackets

One Too Many
Messages
1,472
Indeed. 1 part dye to 3 parts alcohol. Leather dye evaporates quickly so you need to work somewhat fast. You will absolutely need a topcoat. Don’t do it right away. Wait at least a week. Go slowly over multiple coats. If you go balls to the wall out of the gate your jacket will turn metallic silver green and you’ll throw it away. I would just get the cordovan from fieblings and not try to science it. If you want red brown, get that.
Makes sense, will go for the cordovan. Any idea what size I need- will the 100ml be enough?

when you say topcoat, what should that be done with?

Finally, when you say multiple coats, do you mean multiple light coats of dye?
 
Messages
18,089
When you’ve fully stripped the jacket it will absorb liquid super fast. Yes use multiple light coats. Work to the color you want over days, not hours. Topcoats sold commercially simply aren’t very good. I’ve tried dozens and they all **** a$$.I settled on Urad and accepted its varnish like finish. Buff the sh!t out of it. The shine will absolutely fade will need to be reapplied. Acrylic top coats should be avoided imo. They stretch and smear and look like gooey, gummy ****. The topcoats fieblings sells are not much better.

Unfortunately dying finished leather at home is something of a win/lose affair. Unlike suede which is insanely easy to dye, finished leather is wildly unpredictable. Be ready to ruin it without care.

I bought a gallon of cordo so I’m not sure how many little bottles it would take. I think I dyed 4 jackets and still have more than half the gallon left. Way more in fact.
 
Messages
18,089
Dye is the nuclear option. If the leather absorbs water try Obernaufs oil to darken without the brain cell loss and potential straight to trash dye job.
 

Oldanalogbonniefrump

New in Town
Messages
23
Nice, I also use leather resin/filler, if it's a fine cracked I inject it in and buff it over, after a bit of polish you can't tell
What leather filler is a good filler? I just acquired a very solid Walter Dyer Motorcycle Jacket---the shoulders and upper arm have a road burn (jacket did it's job) BUT there is one hole. Small --maybe the size of 1/2 a dime, even less (small shirt button size--even less)
 

Oldanalogbonniefrump

New in Town
Messages
23
What did you use to color the Angelus Filler? I have leather honey black, also a variety of shoe polish type dyes. I have a very small hole and am about the push the button on Angelus Filler but do want information on the Angelus taking black color. The filler is $14 . I'd like to not buy ( if I can) additional dye as I have leather honey black and a bundle of other old shoe stuff. This is to do that single spot.
 

hodgeko

One of the Regulars
Messages
153
Hello, everyone. Any advice for fixing this tear that developed on the elbow of my 40s Sportclad? The whole jacket is quite worn and thin in some areas, this elbow especially (obviously). Seems like patching it with a strip and leather glue, from what I'm reading in this thread? Just thought I'd post a pic in case anyone has any advice before I attempt something I've never done before. Thanks!

sportclad tear.jpeg
 

Wajidali

New in Town
Messages
26
I found a Cal CHP
has a small cut in the grain. The cut is really small and the inner layer looks intact. How would you fix this?
WhatsApp Image 2026-10-07 at 11.50.14.jpeg
 

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