DB Suit jacket length; a code or more what you'd call guidelines than actual rules?

[Levallois]

I've got a nice dark blue with light brown pinstripes DB suit that was made between 1939-1949 and the jacket is a little short. This means that it doesn't completely cover my crotch or bum - about 1 1/2 inches too short. Can I wear it like this and not look weird or is this a big no-no for the DB suit look? Thanks!

John

 

[Tomasso]

is this a big no-no for the DB suit look?

It is in my book but you are seeing the look on runways and at hipster hangouts.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

You DID read the thread on the Dracula-Suit, didn't you?

From my point of view it is perfectly fine as long the fit is good and close to the body. If it is too tight it will look like you are wearing just one size too small. If it too big the proportions will be off.

I am searching my harddrive for pictures from the thirties to prove that...

 

[avedwards]

With it being a DB suit it may be possible to lengthen it, depending on whether there is any material which can be let out in the hem.

 

[Dinerman]

Yep- vintage suits generally have a shorter skirt length than modern ones.

 

[Mr Vim]

I have a Double Breasted suit that is slightly short in jacket length, I still wear it, it looks good.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Here are some pictures. Not all of them are DB but you will have to agree most of them look rather short compared with todays standards.

 

[avedwards]

This is why I find slightly shorter vintage jackets better than longer modern jackets. There's considerably less creasing when you put your hands in your pockets or when you sit down.

 

[Gene]

From the vintage family photos thread...my grandfather and friends demonstrating the differences in DB suit cuts..

 

[avedwards]

That's an interesting picture. You don't often see the 6x1 button stance like the person in the middle front row is wearing. It's usually more of an 80s thing.

 

[Tomasso]

You don't often see the 6x1 button stance like the person in the middle front row is wearing. It's usually more of an 80s thing.

Many 6x1s are actually 6x2s buttoned at the bottom button. I beleave that the DoW may have started the trend.

 

[avedwards]

Many 6x1s are actually 6x2s buttoned at the bottom button. I beleave that the DoW may have started the trend.

I'm aware of that trend, but in the case of the picture the middle row of buttons is not parallel to the bottom row meaning it cannot be a 6x2. It's therefore cut as a 6x1 which is unusual for a "Golden Era" suit as that style only really gained popularity in the 80s. It's not a look I personally like as I think it looks odd having two rows of useless buttons, which is why I cut off the top two buttons on a 6x1 I had turning it into a more sensible looking 4x1.

 

[Guttersnipe]

6 x 1 button double breasts were definitely a "thing" post WWII in the States. If you watch movies from circa 1947 - 1955 they pop up occasionally; I've come across vintage ones too (but never in my size, alas). I associate them with the bold look, but they kinda got a bad name in the 80s. The "detailor" baggy, square cut 80s 6 x 1 jackets are certainly a far cry from the tapered, yet loose cut bold look 6 x 1 Gene's family member is sporting in that picture.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

His brother (George, Duke of Kent), I think, is generally considered to be the originator …

Many 6x1s are actually 6x2s buttoned at the bottom button. I beleave that the DoW may have started the trend.

 

[Tomasso]

His brother (George, Duke of Kent), I think, is generally considered to be the originator …

That's probably so. I suspect that the DoW may have been given credit for originating various looks when he merely adopted and popularized things that he'd seen worn by men with a lower profile.

 

[dogrocketp]

I was taught the unofficial rule of the jacket coming to the upper thumb joint on pre 1950's clothing. The biggest thing to keep in mind is that the old suits had very full trousers. The idea was to make the wearer look taller, and then fit the jackets as close as possible with padded shoulders and higher armholes. If the jacket is too short, an inch will make all the difference in the world. Make sure the tailor understands the look and gets the whole thing right. I once had a tailor remove the shoulder pads from a dead mint 1940 DB jacket because he didn't like the look.He didn't en discuss it with me. I let him live, in the interest of the rest of my life.

 

[dogrocketp]

That would be the 4 X 1 DB jacket. Up to that point, the 4 X 1 was worn only on DB tuxedos, as it should be to this day. The idea was to make the wearer look taller, although it could hide a burgeoning waistline a bit.

 

[dogrocketp]

Do we note a common theme in older dress clothing? I guess we all want to look taller, thinner, and more prosperous.

 

[Levallois]

I appreciate all the replies. The jacket meets the sleeve length test of curling your hand up but not the overall length test of the upper thumb joint - it's about 2-inches off which is how short the jacket looked from the beginning. Top of collar to bottom edge is 29.5-inches - my other jackets measure in the 31-32-inch range. Unfortunately, there is only about 1/2-inch of fabric at the lower edge so tailoring isn't going to help me out. I love the fabric of this suit but I don't know if I like the way it looks on me or not.

Thanks again.

John

 

[Iyor]

As long as it covers your jewels I think you're fine