DB Suit jacket length; a code or more what you'd call guidelines than actual rules?

[djd]

Regarding 6x1 jackets , I was just looking at a book about David Niven and there's a couple of pictures of him wearing 6x1 jackets in the later 30's. It seems to have started with 6x2 jackets having one button on the roll of the lapel (much like SB 3 button jackets) where the upper button hole, whilst there, is not meant to be used. I also note that he was quite keen on 2 button SB jackets in that period

 

[avedwards]

That would be the 4 X 1 DB jacket. Up to that point, the 4 X 1 was worn only on DB tuxedos, as it should be to this day. The idea was to make the wearer look taller, although it could hide a burgeoning waistline a bit.

The 4x1 DB jacket was also worn on regular suits back then. It's a look I personally quite like with a waistcoat underneath.

 

[Tomasso]

The jacket meets the sleeve length test of curling your hand up but not the overall length test of the upper thumb joint

Those are department store rules. Arm length has no bearing on fit as it is a variable that fluctuates from person to person. If anything, I'd go with : Collar seam to floor, divide in half. That said, you always got to cover your a$$.

 

[Levallois]

That said, you always got to cover your a$$.

That's the problem -it's only about 3/4 covered and there is nothing less appealing than a partially exposed bum. If it is me. Now if you're Shakira. Then it's ok.

John

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Note that in all but one (and in that one it's hard to tell as his hand is in his pocket) of the vintage pitcures shown here, the buttocks are 90% or more covered. Sure, jackets were shorter than they're often worn today, but in all the catalogues (the British ones at least) the jacket is always long enough to cover the buttocks. I always give vintage a bit of lee-way in terms of fit, but 75% covered buttocks just seems too short to me.

This is not to say images of men with very short jackets don't exist. I'm simply not of the group who try to convince themselves that fully exposed buttocks was a trend or a fashion for any great length of time or great proportion of the populace in the 1930s. The overwhelming evidence of the photographic and film evidence simply doesn't back the notion up. They were indeed shorter jackets than is common today, but not that short.

bk

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

here is another one with really short jacket. note the sleeve lenght compared to the general lenght of the jacket. the scan is from german magazine from 1932. I would say 75% could be ok. I wouldn't even call it

fully exposed buttocks

 

[Tomasso]

Can we agree that....................

There's a touch on the short side:

And there's way too short:

 

[Mario]

That's an interesting picture. You don't often see the 6x1 button stance like the person in the middle front row is wearing. It's usually more of an 80s thing.

And how! The suit of that bespectacled fellow in the middle actually reminds me of those rather cheesy college-boy-turned-mobster wannabe-villains from Miami Vice... :eeek:

 

[Mario]

here is another one with really short jacket. note the sleeve lenght compared to the general lenght of the jacket. the scan is from german magazine from 1932. I would say 75% could be ok. I wouldn't even call it

That old chap on the left really throws me every time I look at him; guess he just quickly crossed the street to fetch a pack of cigarettes and didn't really bother about his pants...talk about casual!

 

[djd]

LOL! I bet he's wearing lacy knickers too....

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Haha. I think they have boys faces but the one on the left has a nice white moustache. Nice addition to the pervy in the park look.

 

[TCMfan25]

Here are some pictures. Not all of them are DB but you will have to agree most of them look rather short compared with todays standards.

Love the second one down!

 

[herringbonekid]

shorter SB jackets of the 30s:

i think all of these shorter and extreme cut-away jackets work (even the last one) because you can see that it is intentional, and not the result of wearing a jacket that is too short because you've outgrown it, or it belonged to someone else.

 

[Mario]

shorter SB jackets of the 30s:

It's not the jacket that looks off - it's the guys legs that scare me. It's probably the wind but it sure looks as if his shin made contact with bumpers of a car...