Cal Leathers and Al’s Leathers: are they “related”?

[Kubatu]

I have had two Al's. One is the jacket currently in Ton's possession, the other I sold on Ebay. There was a huge difference between the leathers on the two. The one I sold on Ebay was heavy, but also very soft. Much like modern day Vanson comp weight, but with a little more grain. The ebay listing was deleted a long time ago, but I could probably find photos for reference somewhere.

The one Ton has now is a beast of a jacket, heavier and more solid than nearly all the Cal-Leathers I have come across. I can't say for sure, but I think it is heavier than my 50s Cal. However, it was also a couple sizes larger, so that may have caused the weight disparity. The Cal's hide is also crazy, whereas the Al's is much more regular.

The heavy Al's:

The 50's Cal:

 

[photo2u]

I have had two Al's. One is the jacket currently in Ton's possession, the other I sold on Ebay. There was a huge difference between the leathers on the two. The one I sold on Ebay was heavy, but also very soft. Much like modern day Vanson comp weight, but with a little more grain. The ebay listing was deleted a long time ago, but I could probably find photos for reference somewhere.

The one Ton has now is a beast of a jacket, heavier and more solid than nearly all the Cal-Leathers I have come across. I can't say for sure, but I think it is heavier than my 50s Cal. However, it was also a couple sizes larger, so that may have caused the weight disparity. The Cal's hide is also crazy, whereas the Al's is much more regular.

The heavy Al's:

The 50's Cal:

You know, I was kind of surprise when I read about how heavy ton's al's leather was. I had several al's and all of them were along the lines of Vanson's competition weight. I was thinking he had a very special al's on his hand. I WANT IT! LOL. One more added to my list.

 

[Leather Walker]

The jacket I began this passion with is this padded heavyweight.

I thought it was a Cal at first, the 60s/70s cross-zip padded version I was looking for. When I got it, I realized little details that didn't match the reference pics of the model I sought. You know, different stitching practises, hardware, thickness and type of leather... Well -I thought- this may be two things: an early version, or a knockoff. To be honest, I didn't have any problem with the 2nd option; if it was a knockoff, due to its high-quality, it shifted to be the best motorcycle jacket I could handle, not a simple "copy". The weight, resistance, thickness... does a copy look like that? So long live the copies! The idea of being an early version didn't correspond with the YKK zippers (no marks of a replaced zipper), as well as the kind of hide. Could this jacket be a Lost World, or a Johnson Leather garment? I searched, compared... but I didn't get anywhere.

Later, in my knowledge growth of this thrilling world, I knew about the existence of Al's (mostly because the jackets I saw for sale in Y! Auctions) and the Leatherman tag... they were very close to mine. Afterwards, here on TFL, I verified my jacket was an Al's Leather. This company history is exposed on this threat by @JMax, @Monitor, @Kubatu as well as Gwen from Cal who told the story to @TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead.

I own three Cals, as you know. Differences between Al's & Cal? Many, IMO. Does this mean is a bad thing? No, not at all. They're just simply different. Very similar, but with a different essence.

 

[Monitor]

The jacket I began this passion with is this padded heavyweight.
View attachment 379270

I thought it was a Cal at first, the 60s/70s cross-zip padded version I was looking for. When I got it, I realized little details that didn't match the reference pics of the model I sought. You know, different stitching practises, hardware, thickness and type of leather... Well -I thought- this may be two things: an early version, or a knockoff. To be honest, I didn't have any problem with the 2nd option; if it was a knockoff, due to its high-quality, it shifted to be the best motorcycle jacket I could handle, not a simple "copy". The weight, resistance, thickness... does a copy look like that? So long live the copies! The idea of being an early version didn't correspond with the YKK zippers (no marks of a replaced zipper), as well as the kind of hide. Could this jacket be a Lost World, or a Johnson Leather garment? I searched, compared... but I didn't get anywhere.

Later, in my knowledge growth of this thrilling world, I knew about the existence of Al's (mostly because the jackets I saw for sale in Y! Auctions) and the Leatherman tag... they were very close to mine. Afterwards, here on TFL, I verified my jacket was an Al's Leather. This company history is exposed on this threat by @JMax, @Monitor, @Kubatu as well as Gwen from Cal who told the story to @TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead.

I own three Cals, as you know. Differences between Al's & Cal? Many, IMO. Does this mean is a bad thing? No, not at all. They're just simply different. Very similar, but with a different essence.

And it's still the nicest Cal or Al or either that has been posted to TFL. I'm still waiting for you to decide to get rid of it. Hoping it'll never happen, but waiting.

 

[Bahabp100]

The jacket I began this passion with is this padded heavyweight.
View attachment 379270

I thought it was a Cal at first, the 60s/70s cross-zip padded version I was looking for. When I got it, I realized little details that didn't match the reference pics of the model I sought. You know, different stitching practises, hardware, thickness and type of leather... Well -I thought- this may be two things: an early version, or a knockoff. To be honest, I didn't have any problem with the 2nd option; if it was a knockoff, due to its high-quality, it shifted to be the best motorcycle jacket I could handle, not a simple "copy". The weight, resistance, thickness... does a copy look like that? So long live the copies! The idea of being an early version didn't correspond with the YKK zippers (no marks of a replaced zipper), as well as the kind of hide. Could this jacket be a Lost World, or a Johnson Leather garment? I searched, compared... but I didn't get anywhere.

Later, in my knowledge growth of this thrilling world, I knew about the existence of Al's (mostly because the jackets I saw for sale in Y! Auctions) and the Leatherman tag... they were very close to mine. Afterwards, here on TFL, I verified my jacket was an Al's Leather. This company history is exposed on this threat by @JMax, @Monitor, @Kubatu as well as Gwen from Cal who told the story to @TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead.

I own three Cals, as you know. Differences between Al's & Cal? Many, IMO. Does this mean is a bad thing? No, not at all. They're just simply different. Very similar, but with a different essence.

Do they have mouton sleeve cuff linings?

 

[JMax]

Yes, Al’s sometimes lined their cuffs like Cal.

Also, as I think someone did ask- later Cals did use YKK & current Cals all use YKK.

 

[Kubatu]

I totally forgot I actually had three Al's. One is still in my possession because it fits me. Wow, I never thought I would be forgetting about which jackets I own.

To my knowledge, this is an Al's padded CHP. Really plush for a CHP. Thick satin lining, with heavy, soft leather. But the hide also shows pretty nice graining, it's not flat. It weighs 6.5 pounds.

 

[Bahabp100]

This is a label from a jacket that is not my jacket. Mine has no label.

 

[JMax]

This is a label from a jacket that is not my jacket. Mine has no label.
View attachment 379342

That’s the one. My JL had this label.

 

[Leather Walker]

And it's still the nicest Cal or Al or either that has been posted to TFL. I'm still waiting for you to decide to get rid of it. Hoping it'll never happen, but waiting.

Thank you for your words, Monitor! In fact, a tough jacket made for riding. And about the other question... If I ever think about that, you'll be the first to know!

 

[Al 916]

My two

Leather Man;

and super heavy (just < 10lb) non label.
(without the pins or the belt)

Not an expert, however there are some obvious differences to my eye from Cal

 

[Leather Walker]

My last purchase is an Al's. First time I thought it was a Cal because of the Talon zips, but once it arrived and I could see it up close, there's no doubt.
- Supple leather from cowhide, which may be lightweight or heavyweight.
- Only one stitch around the end of sleeves. / Cals have two.
- Stitch crossing the strip (where the main zip is set) between warm-pockets.
- Smaller epaulettes that are towards front. / Cals have them put towards back.
- Lapels are less spread, even when snapped.
- A bigger neck hole in Al's.
- The belt loops aren't upside down, a Cal's typical feature.
- YKK are vastly found in Al's, with rare exceptions (like mine) / Cals have Talon, Serval or black plastic YKK (mid 80s) as original hardware. Conmar or Crown in the older ones, as well as in Star Gloves.

These are many details you can check if you have the luck to own both.

I'd add that the jackets produced nowadays by Cal are built following the design of Star Gloves, IMO.

 

[Bluechel]

My last purchase is an Al's. First time I thought it was a Cal because of the Talon zips, but once it arrived and I could see it up close, there's no doubt.
- Supple leather from cowhide, which may be lightweight or heavyweight.
- Only one stitch around the end of sleeves. / Cals have two.
- Stitch crossing the strip (where the main zip is set) between warm-pockets.
- Smaller epaulettes that are towards front. / Cals have them put towards back.
- Lapels are less spread, even when snapped.
- A bigger neck hole in Al's.
- The belt loops aren't upside down, a Cal's typical feature.
- YKK are vastly found in Al's, with rare exceptions (like mine) / Cals have Talon, Serval or black plastic YKK (mid 80s) as original hardware. Conmar or Crown in the older ones, as well as in Star Gloves.

These are many details you can check if you have the luck to own both.

I'd add that the jackets produced nowadays by Cal are built following the design of Star Gloves, IMO.

Using perhaps the simplest sign, the double stitched sleeve end, I was surprised to find that four of the five unlabeled jackets I have are Cals wow

 

[Blackadder]

Both of my 60s-70s Cal are light weight compared to my 90s AL. The Al is thicker than Vanson competition weight and harder than a Lost World. 60 and 70s Cal seem to be easy wearing type. I am not sure they are fit for heavy duty as a CHP jacket.
The 50s Star Glove surprisingly is a beast as well. Rigid and heavy horsehide. More solidly built than any of the other 50s jacket I own.
The thick black silky lining on Cal and AL though is the best lining no doubt.

 

[JMax]

Both of my 60s-70s Cal are light weight compared to my 90s AL. The Al is thicker than Vanson competition weight and harder than a Lost World. 60 and 70s Cal seem to be easy wearing type. I am not sure they are fit for heavy duty as a CHP jacket.
The 50s Star Glove surprisingly is a beast as well. Rigid and heavy horsehide. More solidly built than any of the other 50s jacket I own.
The thick black silky lining on Cal and AL though is the best lining no doubt.

Star Glove morphed into Cal in late 40s. So your SG is likely 40s. Definitely more solidly built than pretty much anything else out there. Early Cals (late 40s through 50s) also are beasts. Later Cals could be but not always. Totally agree, Cal lining is awesome.

 

[Blackadder]

Star Glove morphed into Cal in late 40s. So your SG is likely 40s. Definitely more solidly built than pretty much anything else out there. Early Cals (late 40s through 50s) also are beasts. Later Cals could be but not always. Totally agree, Cal lining is awesome.

Thank you for the information. My Star Glove looks exactly like the one worn by James Dean in his photoshoot. I am amazed by the condition.

 

[Al 916]

I have my eye on a padded Al's.
It's slightly longer at the curved back than I usually go for and the S2S might be slightly under.

How do they wear shoulder wise?

.....Because.....the heavy is just a bit too ...so will be moving
and I sorta want that padded...

 

[JMax]

Thank you for the information. My Star Glove looks exactly like the one worn by James Dean in his photoshoot. I am amazed by the condition.

Are pictures of it posted? I recall the Cal that came in at around the same time.

Edit:: I did find the yahoo auction I assume is yours. It’s perfect. Congrats!

 

[Blackadder]

Are pictures of it posted? I recall the Cal that came in at around the same time.

Edit:: I did find the yahoo auction I assume is yours. It’s perfect. Congrats!

I did post one pic. Lol.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ng-and-how-many-potential-ones.89562/page-756

 

[JMax]

I did post one pic. Lol.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ng-and-how-many-potential-ones.89562/page-756

Yep, and I saw it then. Lol. It’s perfect and amazing.