Buying hat blocks--what does one need to know?

[Hat and Rehat]

I have some block questions not covered in the discussion to date (at least not in this thread).
I don't know if this is also true of others, but my earliest exposure to the nuts and bolts of hat making was through YouTube videos.
You watch them for a while, think you understand how it's done, then charge ahead to soon find huge gaps in your understanding.
I generally saw the straight or taper sided blocks with flat bottoms and 3 holes (usually). I see those for sale, but also see blocks much more head shaped. They start to curve in, like a scull does, toward the nape of the neck.
Are those useful for men's hats?

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[thehatmatters]

Hey guys, I've got one question, and I appreciate every piece of advice. I've just bought a few wooden hat blocks from one guy for a good price (one was for circa 30 dollars, he got it from his grandmother), and I thought it might be a good start for making hats. But now I realized that almost all of the hat blocks I have are around 55cm, some of them have slightly more - up to 57cm, which is still less than enough. I would like to ask you, what is the best thing to do? Is there a way to make the blocks bigger or I have to return them to him and buy some bigger and more expensive ones? Thank you for your advice, Adam.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Hey guys, I've got one question, and I appreciate every piece of advice. I've just bought a few wooden hat blocks from one guy for a good price (one was for circa 30 dollars, he got it from his grandmother), and I thought it might be a good start for making hats. But now I realized that almost all of the hat blocks I have are around 55cm, some of them have slightly more - up to 57cm, which is still less than enough. I would like to ask you, what is the best thing to do? Is there a way to make the blocks bigger or I have to return them to him and buy some bigger and more expensive ones? Thank you for your advice, Adam.

I’ve heard of hatters pulling a hat body over the block and then pulling the hat body of the actual hat they are making over the it. This gives them a slightly bigger block (the thickness of the first felt).

I think you’d do better looking for the correct block size.



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[humanshoes]

Hey guys, I've got one question, and I appreciate every piece of advice. I've just bought a few wooden hat blocks from one guy for a good price (one was for circa 30 dollars, he got it from his grandmother), and I thought it might be a good start for making hats. But now I realized that almost all of the hat blocks I have are around 55cm, some of them have slightly more - up to 57cm, which is still less than enough. I would like to ask you, what is the best thing to do? Is there a way to make the blocks bigger or I have to return them to him and buy some bigger and more expensive ones? Thank you for your advice, Adam.

I've responded to your email, but I'll post this information here as well for the other folks who may be interested.
While it is always best to start with the right size hat block, at least 1/4" larger than the desired hat size to allow for sweatband, hat blocks can be upsized by adding layers of material. It's a trick that was often used in the old days utilizing sacrificial felt or straw hat bodies stretched over the existing block and secured at the bottom. I once purchased an antique wood block that had three felt hat bodies attached. The hat block pictured (right) started out as a 7 5/8. I stretched a wool hat body over it and got it up to a size 7 7/8. The wool body can be removed to return the block to it's original size and stored for later use as the need arises.

 

[Adam L]

Hi everyone. I'm so new to this, so forgive me. But I've been going in circles and a little bit of advise would go a long way and be so appreciated. I'd like to try making my own hat, and although I've narrowed my hat block search down to a 51 or 52 oval regular hat block, I still don't know what those numbers mean. I imagine there's a hat blocking system that exists somewhere or some historical bible of hat making that I still haven't stumbled across. Can someone point me in the right direction? I'm looking to make something similar to a Stetson Open Road, with maybe a taller crown. Are there any books I should be reading for a bit of historical education on hat making? And what do these numbers mean?

 

[belfastboy]

Hi everyone. I'm so new to this, so forgive me. But I've been going in circles and a little bit of advise would go a long way and be so appreciated. I'd like to try making my own hat, and although I've narrowed my hat block search down to a 51 or 52 oval regular hat block, I still don't know what those numbers mean. I imagine there's a hat blocking system that exists somewhere or some historical bible of hat making that I still haven't stumbled across. Can someone point me in the right direction? I'm looking to make something similar to a Stetson Open Road, with maybe a taller crown. Are there any books I should be reading for a bit of historical education on hat making? And what do these numbers mean?

The #51 or #52 is a style number. The #52 is a classic straight sided tall crowned hat. Go to "Leon Drexler.com "and peruse his site. I can't remember but one of his drop down menu items shows a profile of the 4 main styles of block he uses. You also need to know your head shape. Are you a regular oval, a long oval or an extreme long oval? I use pipe cleaners joined together then wrap them around your head at the point the hat would sit. Join the ends together and twist tight (ish) Gently slip it off your head and voila you have an outline of your head shape. Post the inner dimensions front to back and side to side. Then I can tell you if you are a reg oval or long or???. Secondly Google YouTube Art Fawcett for a fantastic 30 minutes video that condenses Art's 8 hour process of making a hat. I have more to say but my wife is waiting for me. If others' don't answer your questions I will fill in some blanks later....along with suggestions where to buy your block.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Hi everyone. I'm so new to this, so forgive me. But I've been going in circles and a little bit of advise would go a long way and be so appreciated. I'd like to try making my own hat, and although I've narrowed my hat block search down to a 51 or 52 oval regular hat block, I still don't know what those numbers mean. I imagine there's a hat blocking system that exists somewhere or some historical bible of hat making that I still haven't stumbled across. Can someone point me in the right direction? I'm looking to make something similar to a Stetson Open Road, with maybe a taller crown. Are there any books I should be reading for a bit of historical education on hat making? And what do these numbers mean?

I don’t think the numbers “mean” anything. I’ve never read anything on decoding hat block numbers. It would be nice if there was such a system, but I don’t think it exists. Also, several blocks of the same profile exist using different block shape numbers. If there was a numerical code for blocks, it would take a lot more than two numbers or two data points to accurately describe a block shape. If you like a boxy crown with little taper and the sides going way up toward the top of the crown then the 52 is for you. There are even straighter blocks, but the 52 is a perennial favorite. The 51 is also reasonably straight sided, but it begins to curve in earlier as it approaches the top of the crown. I’m sure others can describe the blocks and their differences better.

As for the “bible” you spoke of, this is as close as it gets:

http://www.survivorlibrary.com/library/scientific_hat_finishing_and_renovating_1919.pdf

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

Hi everyone. I'm so new to this, so forgive me. But I've been going in circles and a little bit of advise would go a long way and be so appreciated. I'd like to try making my own hat, and although I've narrowed my hat block search down to a 51 or 52 oval regular hat block, I still don't know what those numbers mean. I imagine there's a hat blocking system that exists somewhere or some historical bible of hat making that I still haven't stumbled across. Can someone point me in the right direction? I'm looking to make something similar to a Stetson Open Road, with maybe a taller crown. Are there any books I should be reading for a bit of historical education on hat making? And what do these numbers mean?

I can't speak to all manufactured hat blocks on the numbers. The blocks that I have use 3 sets of numbers and they refer to the crown height, the block style, and size. So my block that says 5 3/4, 52, 7 1/8 means that it is a style 52 with a 5 3/4 inch open crown height, for a 7 1/8 hat size. Please note, that I wouldn't full trust the hat size. I measured all my hat block circumferences and then know to account for a sweatband that I want 1/4 inch larger than the persons head.

 

[Michael R.]

@ChicagoWayVito Hey Brother !

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

@ChicagoWayVito Hey Brother !

@Michael R. it has been a while for us both Michael. Good to see you posting here.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I can't speak to all manufactured hat blocks on the numbers. The blocks that I have use 3 sets of numbers and they refer to the crown height, the block style, and size. So my block that says 5 3/4, 52, 7 1/8 means that it is a style 52 with a 5 3/4 inch open crown height, for a 7 1/8 hat size. Please note, that I wouldn't full trust the hat size. I measured all my hat block circumferences and then know to account for a sweatband that I want 1/4 inch larger than the persons head.

I think we all agree on what the three sets of numbers are, but, for instance, the “52” is, I believe, just an arbitrary number. It’s not as if the “5” refers to the taper and the “2” describes how high up the block the sides go before starting to curve in. It would be great if there was some standard that defined what the numbers mean. Maybe there is/was, but I’m not aware of it.

 

[Tukwila]

I don’t think the numbers “mean” anything. I’ve never read anything on decoding hat block numbers. It would be nice if there was such a system, but I don’t think it exists. Also, several blocks of the same profile exist using different block shape numbers. If there was a numerical code for blocks, it would take a lot more than two numbers or two data points to accurately describe a block shape. If you like a boxy crown with little taper and the sides going way up toward the top of the crown then the 52 is for you. There are even straighter blocks, but the 52 is a perennial favorite. The 51 is also reasonably straight sided, but it begins to curve in earlier as it approaches the top of the crown. I’m sure others can describe the blocks and their differences better.

As for the “bible” you spoke of, this is as close as it gets:

http://www.survivorlibrary.com/library/scientific_hat_finishing_and_renovating_1919.pdf

Wait. More straight sided than a 52? Tell me more on that, please! Tall, blocky and zero taper is my dream...

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Wait. More straight sided than a 52? Tell me more on that, please! Tall, blocky and zero taper is my dream...

Both Randal Alan and Hat Shapers offer blocks with less taper than the 52. Send Terry Jones a PM.

 

[T Jones]

Both Randal Alan and Hat Shapers offer blocks with less taper than the 52. Send Terry Jones a PM.

Actually, the RA block I had made has no taper at all. The sides and the front and back are literally vertical with a domed top. It's my favorite block shape and you can get a lot of different and full looking creases from it. I also have a #52, and while it's straighter sided than most, the #52 does have some taper. My RA block has none.

This Biltmore Longhair conversion I did was done on my RA block: it sports a tall straight crown

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Actually, the RA block I had made has no taper at all. The sides and the front and back are literally vertical with a domed top. It's my favorite block shape and you can get a lot of different and full looking creases from it. I also have a #52, and while it's straighter sided than most, the #52 does have some taper. My RA block has none.

This Biltmore Longhair conversion I did was done on my RA block: it sports a tall straight crown

Thanks, Terry; that’s what I recalled. Doug @Tukwila was looking for less taper than the 52.

 

[belfastboy]

Actually, the RA block I had made has no taper at all. The sides and the front and back are literally vertical with a domed top. It's my favorite block shape and you can get a lot of different and full looking creases from it. I also have a #52, and while it's straighter sided than most, the #52 does have some taper. My RA block has none.

This Biltmore Longhair conversion I did was done on my RA block: it sports a tall straight crown

If you buy an RA block don't forget to ask for the Fedora Lounge discount.

 

[Tukwila]

Actually, the RA block I had made has no taper at all. The sides and the front and back are literally vertical with a domed top. It's my favorite block shape and you can get a lot of different and full looking creases from it. I also have a #52, and while it's straighter sided than most, the #52 does have some taper. My RA block has none.

This Biltmore Longhair conversion I did was done on my RA block: it sports a tall straight crown

I remember the hat. Excellent work, and tall and blocky just like i like em.

 

[T Jones]

I remember the hat. Excellent work, and tall and blocky just like i like em.

Thank you Tuk!

 

[T Jones]

Thanks, Terry; that’s what I recalled. Doug @Tukwila was looking for less taper than the 52.

You're welcome buddy. The RA I have would definitely be the ticket for a vertical sided block. If you'd put my RA and a #52 together side by side the taper of the #52 would immediately be noticeable. The #52 is still a good profile, though.

 

[Adam L]

I don’t think the numbers “mean” anything. I’ve never read anything on decoding hat block numbers. It would be nice if there was such a system, but I don’t think it exists. Also, several blocks of the same profile exist using different block shape numbers. If there was a numerical code for blocks, it would take a lot more than two numbers or two data points to accurately describe a block shape. If you like a boxy crown with little taper and the sides going way up toward the top of the crown then the 52 is for you. There are even straighter blocks, but the 52 is a perennial favorite. The 51 is also reasonably straight sided, but it begins to curve in earlier as it approaches the top of the crown. I’m sure others can describe the blocks and their differences better.

As for the “bible” you spoke of, this is as close as it gets:

http://www.survivorlibrary.com/library/scientific_hat_finishing_and_renovating_1919.pdf

This is incredibly helpful. Thanks so much. That’s kind of what I expected, but I had a feeling these hat block numbers were used at some point as a kind of catalogue number for a large reference system. I’ve read about the 51 and 52 blocks, which made me think a hat block manufacturer created each number as a quick reference to a specific form and that blocks 1 - 50 must also exist. Anyway, thanks for the link to the PDF. I’ll definitely read this.

Where might be the best place to buy a kind of starting kit? I’d like to find a 51 block with flange strand and the basic tools. And is there a go to flange that is considered a favourite like the 51 and 52 blocks?

Thanks for the reply!