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Buying hat blocks--what does one need to know?

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
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6,788
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Central Ohio
Hi Terry,

I have a 7 1/4 "52" block that comes in at 23 9/16"
I'm looking for a 7 1/4 #52 block, actually. Seems to me that the circumferences on blocks for the same hat sizes must've varied from one manufacturer to another. Moon gave me a 7 3/8 Stetson which I re blocked on the 7 1/4 hat block I have. I reused the original 7 3/8 sweat and it fit perfectly.
 

Art Fawcett

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Central Point, Or.
It's been my experience that the markings on the blocks are often wrong, as you are experiencing. Best rule of thumb, use a block 1/4" bigger than you need for the hat. Pay no attention to the sizing on the block itself. As you can see, Beaver brands liked more room in their 7 1/8 , what appears to be 23 1/2 but should be 22 3/4 for an 7 1/8th. ( sweat measurement ID 22 1/2). Same with flanges also but aren't quite as critical. I have a block marked 7 5/8 but measures 23 3/8, clearly a 7 3/8.
 
Last edited:

Art Fawcett

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Central Point, Or.
Some makers go by inches or size of the block, and others go by the size of what the finished hat is supposed to be... or so I was told.

So, if I want my hat to finish out with, sweat band installed, to 23-3/8" then I need a block about an inch larger, or 24-3/8" Does that sound right to anyone?

If you use one 1" bigger than you need Doug, you'll end up with a reverse taper. 23 3/8 sweat = at most, 23 3/4. The sweat should take about 1/4-3/8" more OD to sit right
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,788
Location
Central Ohio
It's been my experience that the markings on the blocks are often wrong, as you are experiencing. Best rule of thumb, use a block 1/4" bigger than you need for the hat. Pay no attention to the sizing on the block itself. As you can see, Beaver brands liked more room in their 7 1/8 , what appears to be 23 1/2 but should be 22 3/4 for an 7 1/8th. ( sweat measurement ID 22 1/2). Same with flanges also but aren't quite as critical. I have a block marked 7 5/8 but measures 23 3/8, clearly a 7 3/8.
The Beaver Brand blocks are the ones I believe I have. So for a 7 1/4 hat size the block should actually be 23 inches?
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,788
Location
Central Ohio
Should be 23 to 23 1/8 for correct fit. There can always be slight overages and still make it work but in an ideal situation it should be no more than 3/8 " bigger than the ID of the sweat
Thanks, Art. I wear a 22 3/4 which equates to a 7 1/4. I looked up what that would equate to in centimeters and the sizing chart read out to 57.8, nearly 58 centimeters. I have a 23 inch block that's pretty straight sided. After measuring, the block read out to 58.50 in centimeters, 23 inches. According to the online chart, and from what you're saying, using a 23 inch block would give me ever so slightly more than a 1/4 inch above my actual hat size of 7 1/4. Does that seem about right? I decided to sacrifice a modern production 7 1/4 whippet for this experiment...(just a side note: anyone thinking of investing better than $225 into a modern premier whippet, save your money. They're not worth it, imo).

Here's the Premier Whippet again on a 23 inch block. I'll see how this one comes out.
Premier_on_block.jpg
 
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Michael R.

Call Me a Cab
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2,889
Location
West Tennessee USA
That looks about right for me, too. Is the #52 block considered the best one for fedoras and such?

More importantly, where are you fine gents buying your blocks?

I bought this Block from Bob , but I've gotten several Flanges from a guy on Etsy , and some + a Flange Stand from a woman (I think) on Ebay . I caught them as soon as she put them up , and jumped . Michael Gannon uses 52 Blocks , the Crown height can be varied by how deep the Block is set inside the Felt Cape or whatever they call it . I scored BIG on those Flanges . You and I Doug are the same size I believe , 7 3/8 LO or 7 1/2 (padded) .
 

Art Fawcett

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Location
Central Point, Or.
Thanks, Art. I wear a 22 3/4 which equates to a 7 1/4. I looked up what that would equate to in centimeters and the sizing chart read out to 57.8, nearly 58 centimeters. I have a 23 inch block that's pretty straight sided. After measuring, the block read out to 58.50 in centimeters, 23 inches. According to the online chart, and from what you're saying, using a 23 inch block would give me ever so slightly more than a 1/4 inch above my actual hat size of 7 1/4. Does that seem about right? I decided to sacrifice a modern production 7 1/4 whippet for this experiment...(just a side note: anyone thinking of investing better than $225 into a modern premier whippet, save your money. They're not worth it, imo).

Here's the Premier Whippet again on a 23 inch block. I'll see how this one comes out.


Your project should work out perfectly Terry
 

Art Fawcett

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Messages
3,717
Location
Central Point, Or.
That looks about right for me, too. Is the #52 block considered the best one for fedoras and such?

More importantly, where are you fine gents buying your blocks?

The # 52 was most common back in the day but don't be fooled, anything ending in 52 is the same block ( 952, 852, etc.). Don't pass one up if it works for you but I sincerely doubt that they were built long oval. Those carried other numbers I believe
 

Michael R.

Call Me a Cab
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2,889
Location
West Tennessee USA
The # 52 was most common back in the day but don't be fooled, anything ending in 52 is the same block ( 952, 852, etc.). Don't pass one up if it works for you but I sincerely doubt that they were built long oval. Those carried other numbers I believe

Hey Art , I've wondered , what Block is used for Tall Crown Western Hats ? Blown out the Hats Crown looks way different to me .

Just thought too , Do Hatters normally just pad up reg oval Blocks for LO , or just buy one , or have them made ?
 

Art Fawcett

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Central Point, Or.
Tall westerns are often made custom Michael, domed much more that 52s. I never liked the tapered crown so never persued them but do have a few with 962 on them. No, as far as I know you can't pad out a reg oval to long oval. I've just taken the time to collect them over the years. What is equally rare are the long oval flanges, which I have paid through the nose for when finding them. I have fairly complete sets finally but do have holes in the sizes. This really is a biz of equipment availablity. The more equipment you can get your hands on, the better hat you can make.
 

Michael R.

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,889
Location
West Tennessee USA
Tall westerns are often made custom Michael, domed much more that 52s. I never liked the tapered crown so never persued them but do have a few with 962 on them. No, as far as I know you can't pad out a reg oval to long oval. I've just taken the time to collect them over the years. What is equally rare are the long oval flanges, which I have paid through the nose for when finding them. I have fairly complete sets finally but do have holes in the sizes. This really is a biz of equipment availablity. The more equipment you can get your hands on, the better hat you can make.

Thanks Art .
 

T Jones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,788
Location
Central Ohio
Congratulations Terry ! Have a Blessed Resurrection Day !
Thanks, Michael. I already put the crease in it and flanged the brim. All I have left to do is put the ribbon back on it. When I have it put back together I'll be posting some pics....It fits like a glove, btw.

And a very blessed Ressurection Day to you and your family as well.
 

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