Buying hat blocks--what does one need to know?

[H Weinstein]

Hat Block Size: Should a block be a little larger than the hat size...

...or a little smaller? Or should the block be the same size as the hat's designated size, as well as the measured size of the head that's going inside the hat? (FYI, I'm thinking of getting one of those plastic "Hat Shaper" things.)

After some research (both here and online), the info I found suggested that the block should actually be a little larger than the head size to leave room for the inside sweatband?

I'm concerned that the hat may not fit on the block at all if the hat is, say, 22 3/4 inches and the block is 23 inches. Of course, if the block is a little smaller, then I'm afraid the hat will shrink down to the smaller circumference (I'll probably be using some steam). Or do hats have enough "give" so fitting on a slightly larger block is not a problem?

Thanks for any clarifications, gentlemen!

 

[jwalls]

A block is one size larger than the commercial size of the hat. a 7 1/2 block makes a 7 3/8 hat.

 

[bendingoak]

They are blocked larger to account for the sweatband. If you block a 23 inch hat on a 23 inch block you will not have room for the sweatband.

 

[Lotsahats]

Hi all,

I've spent more than a year here now, lurking and learning and occasionally posting, and I've started to think hat maybe a hat block might be a good investment for reshaping the hats I've picked up along the way. At the same time, if I need a hat cleaned, I'm still likely to send it out, so perhaps I don't need a block at all.

Are there some basics to know about buying hat blocks? For instance, I read here that hat a hat block ouht to be one size larger than the hat--one blocks a 7 1/4 hat on a 7 3/8 block

If you have blocks, how often do you use them and why?

Thanks,
A

 

[TheDane]

First of all, you'll need a block that resembles the silhouette of the hat you want to block. It would really be a pity to block a Stratoliner on a #52 full-crown block. That would make the hat look completely wrong. Some don't care, but I like my clam chowder to taste of clams - not apples If you wear many different hat models and want your results to look right, you'll need quite a number of different blocks.

A 7 1/4 block is actually one size "too large" to accommodate for the sweatband. It fits the felt - not the finished hat. If you're a 7 1/4, you can flip out the sweatband and open the sewing in the back. Then you can get a 7 1/4 block into the hat and block it. As a workaround, you can use a 7 1/8 block instead of opening the sweat, but the result will not be quite as good.

I use my blocks when a hat needs blocking - and the reason is, that I like my hats to look good

 

[Rick Blaine]

...I read here that hat a hat block ouht to be one size larger than the hat--one blocks a 7 1/4 hat on a 7 3/8 block

If you have blocks, how often do you use them and why?

Thanks,
A

That's what I do.
I have but one size 7 1/4 #52 (Indiana Jones) block.
I also have two metal domed stretchers, one hand held, one made to be used on a bench or counter top.
I use them to return hats to open crown so they may be recreased.

 

[Panacheman]

the other two loungers have it pretty well sorted but here's my take
What size of block you buy and the shape of said block is entirely dependent on what you want to do with it. If I'm guessing right you are reshaping some of your hats that have gotten out of sorts due to the weather the rain or machinations of an unobservant persons buttocks. in that case you can go two routes buy a block for an open crown and then re-crease by hand. if your after a very clean bash and pinch doing it by hand will take time, steam, and a lot of trial and error. however when you do achieve the perfect pinch using nothing but your own two hands and H2O in the gas phase, nothing can beat that feeling of mastering the felt. That being said there is nothing wrong at all with buying a block with the pinch built in its faster and if done right looks great.
As to size of the block and the sweatband. I have never had much luck with blocking a hat with the sweatband in the hat never seems to sit on the block well enough to get the job done the previous loungers are right take the sweatband off and stitch it back in. If you don't feel like doing this try flipping the sweatband out and going from there but i have always found this gets in the way more then anything. for size I've found that can be tricky I'm a smallish 7 3/8 but the block I use to make my hats is a 7 1/2 (all i could find at the time in my budget range) so far I've made a 10 on it and the size turns out fine in the end. My guess is the block has been shaved at some point in its history. a little trick for pulling the base of the felt in tight to the block is using a double D ring slip belt while steaming. this has saved me so much fiddling with a felt before moving on to crown shaping. Install the sweat band prior to bashing it seems like it helps that hat maintain its size while shaping

 

[Lotsahats]

Thanks, all! There's so much to know!

A

 

[TheDane]

There's so much to know!

True, making/renovating hats is a craft like any other. The basics of hatmaking is probably faster to learn than the basics of many other crafts, though. You could learn the basics of hatmaking in half an hour - but it takes (many) years to master.

Panacheman is quite right about removing the sweat completely before blocking. That's far the best, but also a lot more demanding. Before removing the sweat it's best to remove the ribbon first. In other words: It's best to completely dismantle the hat. For freshing up the blocking, I don't find it necessary. But as Panacheman also states: It all depends on what you want to achieve.

If you want to do a real reblocking - and maybe remove old creaselines on a vintage hat, or fix a shrunken hat - it's not enough to use a sculptured (straw)block. Then you have to use an ordinary block - steam and iron - and maybe pounce the crown. Then you can use a sculptured block, if you don't prefer the hand-creased look. I would never use a sculptured block to crease a felt fedora, but there you go ...

 

[Lotsahats]

Many thanks, gentlemen. I think I'm several steps ahead of myself, and for now, I'll continue to work with steam to get my confidence up on hat fixes.

Cheers,
A

 

[ManofKent]

I'm looking at investing in an inexpensive hat block, mainly for refreshing hats, and the odd play with cheap and cheerful stuff I may pick up. There don't seem to be many used ones in my huge size on UK ebay, and the vintage ones on the US site involve heavy shipping cost and customs fees. These new ones are a good price and I guess they'll do, but I'm torn between crowns. Any thoughts?

http://www.hatblocksdirect.co.uk/products.php?product=HB009

http://www.hatblocksdirect.co.uk/products.php?product=HB003

About 40% of my hats are a 60cm and 55% 61cm so I'm tempted to go 60, flipping the sweat for those that are bit snug...

Thanks for any thoughts

 

[nigeloscar]

About 40% of my hats are a 60cm and 55% 61cm so I'm tempted to go 60, flipping the sweat for those that are bit snug...

Thanks for any thoughts

I just want to know what the other 5% are Richard?

 

[ManofKent]

I've got at least one boater in a 59 (Olney boaters sit so high they come up huge!)

 

[new2hats]

True, making/renovating hats is a craft like any other. The basics of hatmaking is probably faster to learn than the basics of many other crafts, though. You could learn the basics of hatmaking in half an hour - but it takes (many) years to master.

Panacheman is quite right about removing the sweat completely before blocking. That's far the best, but also a lot more demanding. Before removing the sweat it's best to remove the ribbon first. In other words: It's best to completely dismantle the hat. For freshing up the blocking, I don't find it necessary. But as Panacheman also states: It all depends on what you want to achieve.

If you want to do a real reblocking - and maybe remove old creaselines on a vintage hat, or fix a shrunken hat - it's not enough to use a sculptured (straw)block. Then you have to use an ordinary block - steam and iron - and maybe pounce the crown. Then you can use a sculptured block, if you don't prefer the hand-creased look. I would never use a sculptured block to crease a felt fedora, but there you go ...

What about straw or Panama hats?

 

[TheDane]

What about straw or Panama hats?

Same goes, but you would use a sculptured block.

 

[scottyrocks]

I wear a 7 3/8. A 7 3/8 952 block came up on ebay for a very good price, and I bought it.

To those who say that you need a block one size larger to get the desired size finished hat, due to the room the sweat band takes up (and I know you guys know your stuff), there have been times I could barely get a 7 3/8 stripped hat body over my 7 3/8 block. I don't think some of them would have fit over a 7 1/2 block without ripping no matter what I did. And the finished hats come out fitting my 7 3/8 head.

 

[TheDane]

there have been times I could barely get a 7 3/8 stripped hat body over my 7 3/8 block

That's what should be expected. Hat bodies are made to size, in the sense that you in priciple can use one body for two (max. three) sizes. It should not be stretched to a size larger, than it was made for - and it should be made, so it's very hard to make it shrink below a certain size.

It sounds like quality felts you have re-blocked. If they have shrunken just a little bit, they can be very hard to get on the block.

 

[T Jones]

I'm getting ready to buy a couple of straight sided hat blocks, one for a 7 1/4 and one for a 7 3/8.

Here's my dilemma, I have two wooden blocks, one for a 7 1/8 LO and one for a 7 1/4. The 7 1/8 LO measures at 23 inches in circumference and the 7 1/4 measures at 23 1/4 inches in circumference. On another site, though, that sells vintage blocks, they're saying that 7 1/8 is 22 3/4 inches wide and that the 7 1/4 is 23 inches wide, and a 7 3/8 at 23 1/4 inches in circumference. So which is correct?

Here's my two wooden blocks

7 1/4

7 1/8 LO

 

[Frunobulax]

Hi Terry,

I have a 7 1/4 "52" block that comes in at 23 9/16"

 

[FedOregon]

Some makers go by inches or size of the block, and others go by the size of what the finished hat is supposed to be... or so I was told.

So, if I want my hat to finish out with, sweat band installed, to 23-3/8" then I need a block about an inch larger, or 24-3/8" Does that sound right to anyone?