Brooks Gold Label Cafe Racer Repro

[Mr Knight]

Evening folks,

A slightly different thread from the normal that I’m hoping you can help me with.

Ive owned two Aero Leather Board Racers and whilst both have been impeccably made jackets, there’s always been ‘something’ that wasn’t quite right about the styling. Both jackets were specced based on the Buco J100 jacket which is a very common option and I’m sure probably fill a large proportion of the Board Racer orders but as mentioned, something just didn’t make them spot on for what I was looking for and I couldn’t quite put my finger on why.

Fast forward to today and the itch to fire another order to the crew at Galashiels when I stumbled upon details of a jacket that looked very similar to the Buco J100 but with a few neat details that made it look far more interesting………The Brooks Gold Label cafe racer! Obviously the design cues come from Mr Joseph Bugeleisen himself!

Anyway back to the topic, my intention is to spec a Board Racer in the styling of the Brooks which shouldn’t be too difficult considering the BR standard back panel has a split-back with kidney panel and the only tweaks needed to the design would be horizontal chest pockets and zip sleeves on the seams like their CR design.

Now my question is more towards people who currently own a vintage Brooks in either size 38 or size 40: can you possibly measure it up and let me know the dimensions? I’m mainly interested in the sleeve length, body length, chest width and shoulder width.

Also pictures of this jacket are always welcome!

 

[handymike]

Here’s a link to mine:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...fe-racer-in-british-racing-green-sz38.104457/

I also have a Kehoe in a 40. I prefer the details of Kehoe to those of the Brooks. Overall they are similar (both based on the Buco racer), but the Kehoe has a slightly taller collar with a better strap shape, more taper in the sleeves, sleeve zips on the top, rounded and more subtle windflap, and silk lining.

 

[Mr Knight]

Here’s a link to mine:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...fe-racer-in-british-racing-green-sz38.104457/

I also have a Kehoe in a 40. I prefer the details of Kehoe to those of the Brooks. Overall they are similar, but the Kehoe has a slightly taller collar with a better strap shape, more taper in the sleeves, and sleeve zips on the top.

That’s spot on, and a beautiful looking jacket!

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Brooks has a full action back. Don't recall J100 having one. That's the big difference. But I agree, from the front, nothing beats a Brooks racer.

I sold mine few months back but from what I remember:

think it was a 42:

ptp 23
shoulder 20
sleeve 25
back 24.5 with at least 1 inch front drop

But, I don't think the measurement specs are the issue with Aero patterns and why you're sensing something is off. Notably though, the BR has narrower shoulders and then basically more of a straight line body. The Aero cafe racer is bigger up top and then tappers down. I think if you get that with gussets, and then obviously tweak the pocket configuration, you'll get pretty close.

 

[Mr Knight]

Brooks has a full action back. Don't recall J100 having one. That's the big difference. But I agree, from the front, nothing beats a Brooks racer.

I sold mine few months back but from what I remember:

think it was a 42:

ptp 23
shoulder 20
sleeve 25
back 24.5 with at least 1 inch front drop

But, I don't think the measurement specs are the issue with Aero patterns and why you're sensing something is off. Notably though, the BR has narrower shoulders and then basically more of a straight line body. The Aero cafe racer is bigger up top and then tappers down. I think if you get that with gussets, and then obviously tweak the pocket configuration, you'll get pretty close.

The actual fit of the BR in size 38 is perfect for me so I don’t intend to tamper with dimensions other than sleeve & body length to closely mimic a Brooks. I’m lucky in the aspect that Aero base their fits on someone my weight & height! In contrast I found their CR doesn’t fit me that well, mostly due to me not having the biggest shoulders which is why the BR suits me far better.

Appreciated on the feedback though, I’ve come to terms with the fact that my issue with the J100 layout was that there’s nothing ‘exciting’ about the design. It’s a very neutral clean layout in comparison to the standard BR configuration which is what drawn me to it initially but then left me uninterested, self inflicted I know as the regular BR configuration is a more interesting layout. I traded in my first BR as I wasn’t getting along with the CXL it was made of (stupidly had it in summer which didn’t help matters), my second BR was Vicenza and a lot more wearable but still felt like it was missing something and I let it go after a few months.

The thought process of using the Brooks for inspiration is mainly due to it being a halfway house of the standard BR and the J100 with the added benefit of it deleting details of both designs I’m not so keen on:

Board Racer
Slanted chest pockets - nay
Split back - yay
Kidney panel - yay
Front sleeve zips - nay

J100
Horizontal pockets - yay
Straight yolk - nay
No kidney panel - nay
Front sleeve zips - nay

Brooks
Horizontal chest pockets - yay
Split back - yay
Kidney panel - yay
Seam sleeve zips - yay

 

[Mr Knight]

Case example compliments of @mr_lits:

View attachment 45370 View attachment 45371

 

[Grayland]

Love vintage Brooks Cafe Racers. I'm a 40 and take a 42 in that model. IMO the reason it looks so cool is because of the lightweight hide - almost a leather windbreaker. Most of the repro makers use much thicker hides and while they look cool, they don't have that effortless drape of the Brooks.

 

[Mr Knight]

Love vintage Brooks Cafe Racers. I'm a 40 and take a 42 in that model. IMO the reason it looks so cool is because of the lightweight hide - almost a leather windbreaker. Most of the repro makers use much thicker hides and while they look cool, they don't have that effortless drape of the Brooks.

Agreed, I think it was one of TMitchell’s videos that drew me to the Brooks as it looked very lightweight and easy to wear.

It’s also a reason I feel approaching Aero is the best choice, not only because they have their BR jacket as a baseline but my own personal experience with their Vicenza leather highlights it as the ideal choice for this jacket, most likely in either a dark seal or blackened-brown colour-way with nickel hardwear.

 

[handymike]

Battered seal steer or the soft black steerhide would be nice, as well as goat.

 

[Fonzie]

My gold label Brooks is size 38, fits everywhere great but the waist is pretty tight. I have an Aero board racer J-100 too in size 40 that fits perfect.
I’m 5’9/177 and 72kg I think.
I’m thinking of selling this Brooks, lovely vintage jacket and I love it but I do tend to wear my jackets zipped up, can’t with this one comfortably.

 

[Mr Knight]

My gold label Brooks is size 38, fits everywhere great but the waist is pretty tight. I have an Aero board racer J-100 too in size 40 that fits perfect.
I’m 5’9/177 and 72kg I think.
I’m thinking of selling this Brooks, lovely vintage jacket and I love it but I do tend to wear my jackets zipped up, can’t with this one comfortably.
View attachment 350644 View attachment 350645

That looks incredible on you! I don’t suppose you have the measurements of it to hand?

 

[Fonzie]

I don’t but I can get them this weekend.

 

[Mr Knight]

I don’t but I can get them this weekend.

If you don’t mind, that would be perfect.

Thank you.

 

[handymike]

Brooks are plentiful out there. You might be best off just getting one of the originals. They are really cool in their own right, but I don’t think I’d be as happy with mine if I’d spent Aero money on it.

 

[Corky Corcovado]

Those Brooks are wayyyy lighter hide than even the Vicenza. At least my brooks is. You gotta request lightest/thinnest hide available.

 

[ton312]

I wouldn’t attempt to reproduce this model. I can’t think of a single maker that would do it as well. While Brooks aren’t the best built jackets with the best hide they are imho probably the best fitting CR pattern ever. I used to have a super cool one and cycled through quite a few. This one was a particular favorite:

Feels like this picture was taken about 800 years ago.

 

[handymike]

How about a colorful one?

 

[Mr Knight]

Brooks are plentiful out there. You might be best off just getting one of the originals. They are really cool in their own right, but I don’t think I’d be as happy with mine if I’d spent Aero money on it.

That’s not a bad shout and I’ll be sure to keep an eye on the classified section.

 

[handymike]

I’d get it from ebay!
@Dinerman had a beauty not long ago.
Once a Lounger snags one, they tend to hold ‘em in your size.

 

[handymike]

Actually you might be in luck...
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/fs-brooks-gold-size-42.104823/