tmitchell59
I'll Lock Up
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Lost Worlds Test 4.5 ounce, purchased new 11 years ago.
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Broken-in Lost Worlds a Myth?
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Mickiemac
One of the Regulars
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Wow! You purchased this LW 11 years ago and it looks like it just arrived today! With all these LW postings I may inquire about getting one but I don't know if I'd live long enough to break it in. Still - a stunning jacket.
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tmitchell59
I'll Lock Up
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- 7,750
- Location
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To me it is broken in. It may look new, but does not feel new. Feel/fit not looks is what broken in means to me. To others it means creases in sleeves, wear through, creasing. I get it. Lost Worlds jackets are in a class by themselves, they are what they are without much explanation.
Try one, it is a fun ride.
Some jackets are broken in when you don't have to fight the leather when wearing them. Doesn't mean that they need patina, creases,etc to be broken in.
As you mention it's all about the feel/fit when wearing it, the leather is moulded to you.
The newer jackets break in quicker, but even older ones will break in with daily wear.
This is my first LW, made with the older batch of leather that takes longer to break in: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/lost-worlds-suburban-one-year-in.90515/
I have the impression that LW´s horsehide changed over the years. I always thought the older models showed hardly any wear at all, but my ca. 3 year old Ryder is broken in just fine.
(Quite the opposite sensation to getting my Vanson: I heard all the praise about - the old - Competition weight and continue to be massively dissappointed by the mock-vinyl my jacket sports.).
(Quite the opposite sensation to getting my Vanson: I heard all the praise about - the old - Competition weight and continue to be massively dissappointed by the mock-vinyl my jacket sports.).
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Don’t let that one jacket sour you. Vanson hides can be obviously different across tanneries and timelines. Have a bit more subtle differences across batches. And then even have some differences within a batch. And then other CW can look and feel almost the same across timelines and batches lol. I’ve no doubt there is a Vanson hide out there for you. The defunct X150 or Octagon is spectacular imo, but the Octagon went through its changes too.
The rest is not directed at you but a thread response. I do love LW. My favorite. And it certainly is rather consistent over the years. The break in is all in the feel and grain with LW. My newer CHP is ridiculously pliable. My B will be. My older 24 and Trojan were tougher but now are broken in. Both not quite as pliable as the newer stuff, but the look and general feel is about the same. The front panels are stupid (in a good way) thick on both. And the brown 27 is super soft and grainy.
Not sure what you mean by this. Are you saying that a 4 oz LW jacket purchased today will break in faster then the same exact 4 oz style from 10 years ago? What’s different about Stuart’s process? Are LW jackets not “what they used to be?”
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Yes. No idea but if anyone knows, it’ll be Red or Carlos. They certainly are what they used to be, just break in quicker with some real wear.
I saw your post when this Ryder was new. It broke in nicely. Is this 4oz HH?
The recipe was changed in 2016 or something like that.
I have jackets made from both leathers and there is a very noticeable difference.
The newer recipe breaks in much faster and shows more grain, but it is softer and feels less armour like.
Terry's jacket above is definitely the old recipe, you can tell by how the arms get soft rolls compared to the modern one that creases more.
ChewingWax
One of the Regulars
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I bought this LW “Commercial Flight Jacket” in 2007. It’s lightish weight horsehide. Lighter than my brand new 3oz Suburban. I think this was a test pattern or a limited run. I also believe it was sitting around for years before I bought it. So it’s an example of old LW horsehide and if anything it’s softer than the new stuff.
Old recipe:
New Recipe:
One important difference is the core, the old hides where not dyed 100% through and usually show a thin white/grey line in the core of the leather.
The new recipe on the other hand is fully dyed though and 100% black core.
Here is a pic, you can see the grey core on the leather zipper pull (old recipe), compared to the dark blue/black core of the new recipe:
New Recipe:
One important difference is the core, the old hides where not dyed 100% through and usually show a thin white/grey line in the core of the leather.
The new recipe on the other hand is fully dyed though and 100% black core.
Here is a pic, you can see the grey core on the leather zipper pull (old recipe), compared to the dark blue/black core of the new recipe:
Both old and new recipe where available in different ranges of weight.
In the pictures above the J-24 is ever so slightly thicker than the J-23, but not by much.
The older recipe is always more rigid than the new one at equivalent thickness.
Lastly, weight on LW jackets is really not an exact science, a lot happens on the cutting table and one jackets 4 oz is not always going to match another jacket's 4 oz.
There are advantages and disadvantages to both the old and new recipes I’m sure. But gotta say, it’s disappointing to hear that LW has changed their recipe. Been really looking forward to my first LW heavy 4 oz “armor.” More often then not, I find that when fashion retail changes their materials, they’re not as good as they were. What really had to change? Am I wrong here with LW?
Curious to know, from those that have or have handled both, which recipe do you prefer? I wonder if Stuart would or could make me one from his old recipe.
Curious to know, from those that have or have handled both, which recipe do you prefer? I wonder if Stuart would or could make me one from his old recipe.
I have a few jackets of both, i prefer the new recipe.
It's just as armour like but it feels better when worn and it gets more interesting grain.
Stuart doesn't have any of the old style hides left, only new recipe is available.
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^^^ beat me to it. The new receipt is still armor. I wouldn’t worry about that. And my new B is more like the old hide in that it has held it stiffness for much longer than the new CHP. There is some variation in the new hides. The panels on my older ones are like military-issued Kevlar vests though lol.
Edit— and I love how Carlos says “a few”. Classic.
Edit— and I love how Carlos says “a few”. Classic.
I see that @Carlos840 explained much better than I ever could. The leather is still the same, it just breaks in easier. that's it. There is no "it was better before" aspect in this instance.
If Stuart wanted to make the old recipe, he would have to make a whole batch of leathers this way, and as far as I know, everyone is happier with the newer version.
I know that feeling of "I wish I had know about this hobby/maker before". But in that case you did not miss out on the quality of the jackets. The construction is still as good as ever, and the leather as well.
You call LW "fashion retail"??? Careful there...
