BOTH SIDES OF THE TWEED! - Show us your tweed suits, sport coats and pants

[Warden]

A little off topic but Tweed production is picking up thanks to events like the Tweed Run

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-20819410

 

[Oldsarge]

That is sooooo good to hear! I have to get some decent photos of my pair of tweed jackets to post. I'm quite proud of one of them.

 

[resortes805]

Does anyone know where I can find thick, scratchy, pebble-y Donegal tweed?
Is this kind of fabric unavailable in this modern world?

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

[video=vimeo;7505746]http://vimeo.com/7505746[/video]
[video=vimeo;16073270]http://vimeo.com/16073270[/video]
[video=vimeo;15901604]http://vimeo.com/15901604[/video]

Get look at the business of Tweed.

 

[Mario]

Difficult...

http://mageeireland.worldsecuresystems.com/overview/tweeds/cloth-6013

 

[Baron Kurtz]

It's quite easy to source, but you'll pay a shitload for it. Heavy fabrics (i.e. anything above 14 Oz) are quite a niche market today.

bk

 

[Mario]

I've seen some really nice multiflecked/nubbed tweed from HoE but the price was something around 120€ per meter and that wasn't even the really heavy stuff... [huh]

 

[Hap Hapablap]

I was lucky to have a seamstress friend of mine find me a beautiful vintage bolt of what you are talking about. Have you tried searching stores/vendors/etsy sellers/etc. who may have access to great, old fabrics who aren't in the suit business? I bet there are some great fabrics that, out of context, aren't treasured by the average collector/buyer.

 

[ojaw]

I believe both Mears and Bookster consider 14 oz to be medium weight, check with them.
If you're looking to have a suit made, they both seem quite reasonably priced.
If you're just looking for Donegal cloth, they may be able to point you in the right direction.

 

[resortes805]

Man, those are pricey! Looks like I need to start saving my pennies.

I want my tailor to reproduce the slacks on the fellow on the left!

 

[ojaw]

pricey?
Here's a handy calculator to help you figure out what something cost relative to income back in the day. http://www.measuringworth.com/uscompare/
Basically, Mear's and Bookster's prices are cheap in relation to todays salaries.
The problem lies in how many things we think we need to buy and how often we need to buy them.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Well, the tailor's markup for fabric has always rankled with me, tbh. That's the problem with finding out what they pay wholesale. (I buy wholesale or direct from the weaver. Cut out the middlemen and prices go way down.)

Resortes, what kind of weight are you looking for? 14-16 Oz, I would guess? And what colours? From that pic, I'd be guessing an oatmeal base with a lot of dark brown flocking? I'll keep my eyes peeled around the markets. The stuff isn't as rare as it might seem. Also, see your PMs.

bk

 

[Qirrel]

Well, the tailor's markup for fabric has always rankled with me, tbh. That's the problem with finding out what they pay wholesale. (I buy wholesale or direct from the weaver. Cut out the middlemen and prices go way down.)

Yes, the marks-ups can be crazy, sometimes as high as 200% by the time it reaches the tailor.

 

[resortes805]

pricey?
Here's a handy calculator to help you figure out what something cost relative to income back in the day. http://www.measuringworth.com/uscompare/
Basically, Mear's and Bookster's prices are cheap in relation to todays salaries.
The problem lies in how many things we think we need to buy and how often we need to buy them.

I was referring to fabric prices themselves, I am used to paying 15 to 20 dollars a yard for worsteds and gabardines in our garment district. 40 to 120 pounds per meter is pricey to me, unless I am missing something in the conversion.

Baron, I am looking for a good weight that will convincingly pass as vintage, I imagine that would be in the 14 oz range, or am I off?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

14 Oz and up, I would say. Others ma have different ideas. Stuff I had made from 14 Oz fabric would just about pass muster for a year round 40s suit fabric.

I find good weight stuff on fabric stalls, but only because they get ends of bolts and can sell it cheaper than it would normally cost. They only ever have 4-6 metres, max, on the end of a bolt. You can find some great stuff from dealers hat specialise in upholstery too. Lots of very heavy weight good quality woollens in traditional patterns (VERY unfashionable for clothing - just try to find a decent weight gun club at a less then usurious price - so typically difficult to source) at great prices.

 

[Tomasso]

because they get ends of bolts and can sell it cheaper than it would normally cost.

Yep, and you'll find a lot of vintage end-bolts, though often not enough to make up a whole (2-pc) suit.

 

[ojaw]

Reviving this thread because of a concern of mine.
I won't name the maker as yet, because I don't want to slag someone off for something that is not considered a problem by experienced jacket buyers.
I had a sport jacket made overseas in the UK (I was measured by a local tailor) and there were some major flaws in fit that had to be rectified by said local tailor.
These included shoulder width; had to be narrowed at least 1.5".
That is unfortunate, but can be put down to a possible mis-measurement at this end.
However, my main complaint is that my right pocket sits 1/4" higher than the left one.
I saw it before I measured it, and yet the maker claims not to see it (photo sent).
I will take and send more photos, including ones with a measuring tape.
I'm completely new to suits and suit jackets.
Am I out of line here?


Also, will post this over at Style Forum

 

[Monte]

That's terrible...I am not at all a bespoke guy but I think the tailor does a quicky fitting before the final finishing of the suit...obviously couldn't do that in your case. I took a tiny pick of my Imperial Cheviot tweed overcoat but it doesn't do it justice. It's beautiful but not of the golden era I admit.

 

[Monte]

Mixed fabric cap from Dublin (Has a huge Guiness Logo on it--that's what big sisters are for)

 

[Dinerman]