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BOTH SIDES OF THE TWEED! - Show us your tweed suits, sport coats and pants

Warden

One Too Many
Messages
1,336
Location
UK
A little off topic but Tweed production is picking up thanks to events like the Tweed Run

_64905232_tweedtwo_afp.jpg


http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-20819410
 

resortes805

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,019
Location
SoCal
Does anyone know where I can find thick, scratchy, pebble-y Donegal tweed?
Is this kind of fabric unavailable in this modern world?

1930s1940sm23.jpg
 

The Wiser Hatter

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,765
Location
Louisville, Ky
[video=vimeo;7505746]http://vimeo.com/7505746[/video]
[video=vimeo;16073270]http://vimeo.com/16073270[/video]
[video=vimeo;15901604]http://vimeo.com/15901604[/video]

Get look at the business of Tweed.
 

Hap Hapablap

One of the Regulars
Messages
130
Location
Portland, OR
I was lucky to have a seamstress friend of mine find me a beautiful vintage bolt of what you are talking about. Have you tried searching stores/vendors/etsy sellers/etc. who may have access to great, old fabrics who aren't in the suit business? I bet there are some great fabrics that, out of context, aren't treasured by the average collector/buyer.
 

ojaw

A-List Customer
Messages
350
Location
Winnipeg
I believe both Mears and Bookster consider 14 oz to be medium weight, check with them.
If you're looking to have a suit made, they both seem quite reasonably priced.
If you're just looking for Donegal cloth, they may be able to point you in the right direction.
 

resortes805

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,019
Location
SoCal
Man, those are pricey! Looks like I need to start saving my pennies.

I want my tailor to reproduce the slacks on the fellow on the left!
Jamaicans%20in%20Zoot%20Suits.jpg
 

ojaw

A-List Customer
Messages
350
Location
Winnipeg
pricey?
Here's a handy calculator to help you figure out what something cost relative to income back in the day. http://www.measuringworth.com/uscompare/
Basically, Mear's and Bookster's prices are cheap in relation to todays salaries.
The problem lies in how many things we think we need to buy and how often we need to buy them.
 
Well, the tailor's markup for fabric has always rankled with me, tbh. That's the problem with finding out what they pay wholesale. (I buy wholesale or direct from the weaver. Cut out the middlemen and prices go way down.)

Resortes, what kind of weight are you looking for? 14-16 Oz, I would guess? And what colours? From that pic, I'd be guessing an oatmeal base with a lot of dark brown flocking? I'll keep my eyes peeled around the markets. The stuff isn't as rare as it might seem. Also, see your PMs.

bk
 

Qirrel

Practically Family
Messages
590
Location
The suburbs of Oslo, Norway
Well, the tailor's markup for fabric has always rankled with me, tbh. That's the problem with finding out what they pay wholesale. (I buy wholesale or direct from the weaver. Cut out the middlemen and prices go way down.)

Yes, the marks-ups can be crazy, sometimes as high as 200% by the time it reaches the tailor.
 

resortes805

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,019
Location
SoCal
pricey?
Here's a handy calculator to help you figure out what something cost relative to income back in the day. http://www.measuringworth.com/uscompare/
Basically, Mear's and Bookster's prices are cheap in relation to todays salaries.
The problem lies in how many things we think we need to buy and how often we need to buy them.

I was referring to fabric prices themselves, I am used to paying 15 to 20 dollars a yard for worsteds and gabardines in our garment district. 40 to 120 pounds per meter is pricey to me, unless I am missing something in the conversion.

Baron, I am looking for a good weight that will convincingly pass as vintage, I imagine that would be in the 14 oz range, or am I off?
 
14 Oz and up, I would say. Others ma have different ideas. Stuff I had made from 14 Oz fabric would just about pass muster for a year round 40s suit fabric.

I find good weight stuff on fabric stalls, but only because they get ends of bolts and can sell it cheaper than it would normally cost. They only ever have 4-6 metres, max, on the end of a bolt. You can find some great stuff from dealers hat specialise in upholstery too. Lots of very heavy weight good quality woollens in traditional patterns (VERY unfashionable for clothing - just try to find a decent weight gun club at a less then usurious price - so typically difficult to source) at great prices.
 

ojaw

A-List Customer
Messages
350
Location
Winnipeg
Reviving this thread because of a concern of mine.
I won't name the maker as yet, because I don't want to slag someone off for something that is not considered a problem by experienced jacket buyers.
I had a sport jacket made overseas in the UK (I was measured by a local tailor) and there were some major flaws in fit that had to be rectified by said local tailor.
These included shoulder width; had to be narrowed at least 1.5".
That is unfortunate, but can be put down to a possible mis-measurement at this end.
However, my main complaint is that my right pocket sits 1/4" higher than the left one.
I saw it before I measured it, and yet the maker claims not to see it (photo sent).
I will take and send more photos, including ones with a measuring tape.
I'm completely new to suits and suit jackets.
Am I out of line here?


Also, will post this over at Style Forum
 
Last edited:

Monte

Practically Family
Messages
600
Location
North Dakota
That's terrible...I am not at all a bespoke guy but I think the tailor does a quicky fitting before the final finishing of the suit...obviously couldn't do that in your case. I took a tiny pick of my Imperial Cheviot tweed overcoat but it doesn't do it justice. It's beautiful but not of the golden era I admit.
4b20cdc5-de8f-4227-8b38-9b88975737d4_zps3b304b6f.jpg
 

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