Boater faction!

[Wolfmanjack]

If it fits, grab it. It appears to be in pristine condition.

 

[Mr E Train]

Size matters. If it's a 7 1/4 or bigger, it's a good buy. 7 1/8 or smaller and you may or may not get your money back.

It's vintage, pristine and it says "Stetson" on it. He'll be in good shape either way.

 

[skyvue]

I reckon you people in the know can tell me if this boater is worth the money; it's on offer at a vintage market and I'm considering going back tomorrow to get it. The dealer said she'd take $25, is that a good deal?

If it's a size 7 7/8, then it's a great deal. If it is, pick it up and then sell it to me for $50, and we'll both be happy.

 

[mayserwegener]

Portis "EZY - Flex" Boater

"EZY - Flex" Portis Boater with 2 3/4 inch brim.

 

[Wolfmanjack]

:eusa_clap Thats a beauty, mayserwegener. Congratulations! :eusa_clap

 

[Elgin1924]

"EZY - Flex" Portis Boater with 2 3/4 inch brim.

I'm loving the ribbon on that boater!

 

[mayserwegener]

Elgin1924, Wolfmanjack, Thanks!

 

[Garrett]

A few highlights of my latest endeavors

 

[mayserwegener]

Garrett,

Amazing finds and such beautiful weaves! :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

By the way the Kaufman is similar to my M. E. G. & Cie posted a couple pages back.

 

[jwalls]

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TSToOYjFls5Iy7AETz1ZbQ?feat=directlink
This old Stetson boater (1930's) is a bit small, but I just had to have it.

 

[mayserwegener]

Nice find! :eusa_clap

 

[Brad Bowers]

Here's my latest Boater. I wanted something to wear instead of my really nice '30s Dobbs, so I picked this up for a song. It's a 7 3/8 LO, my exact size, though slightly large, as most Hat Corporation hats seem to be on me. It's slightly large enough that I can't wear it in the wind.

The eBay auction showed that the sweatband was completely loose from the hat, so much so that it didn't end up shipping with the hat! I've not heard back from the seller on that yet.

I only wanted the original sweatband for reference, in case there are any tags on it. I was going to put a new sweatband in, as I've already done.

The hat needed cleaning, but it was mostly caked-on dust. I was afraid it was mold, but that turned out to not be the case. A soft-bristled toothbrush and a little bit of water did the trick, though you have to be careful with the water, as the gelatin used to stiffen the hat is water soluble. I didn't want to try any solvent other than water, because you never know how it might react to the threads that stitched the hat together.

A naphtha bath on the removable hat band did little to alleviate the stains on it, as seems to be the case on many Cavanagh hatbands I've tried to clean. There are a few holes around the band, but I don't think anybody's going to care other than me. So many people get a kick out of seeing me wear my Boater that they'll never notice the flaws.

As for age, the hat is no older than the '50s. There are no labels inside the hat other than the cloth size label glued inside the crown, but that's consistent with my '30s Dobbs. The straw on this Cavanagh is thicker than my Dobbs, and the stitches are not concealed as on the older hat. I've compared the two hats, but I can't tell if this Cavanagh was made in Italy or in Norwalk. I was hoping the sweatband would give a clue, as the later Hat Corp. straws ususally have "Made in Italy" stamped on the sweat.

My '30s Dobbs has a nice reverse taper all the way around the crown, but they were made on five-piece blocks back then to give them that taper. This one has no taper, and so doesn't look as sharp. The construction quality isn't as nice as the '30s Dobbs, either, but that's to be expected, as Boaters weren't necessarily a big seller by the '50s. They did experience a bit of a revival around the time of the '59 Derby Revival, as Hat Corporation of America pushed them in marketing. Perhaps this hat dates from then.

Still, for a cheap, wearable Boater that I don't mind beating around in, it will work just fine.

Brad

 

[Wolfmanjack]

Great restoration, Brad.

 

[CitizenGenet]

These are images of employees of the Curtiss Aeroplane and Motor Company in 1918.

 

[Mobile Vulgus]

Here's my boater...

I can't wear it at all, though, even if I wanted to. I am a size seven and this thing is gigantic on me. Even stuffing the band wouldn't work it's so big on me!

Speaking of the band, that black cotton band was added much later. It is roughly sewn in and the cloth looks synthetic to me. I've had the hat for about 15 years, so the band could have been added relatively recently. I bought the thing for about $20 in an antique mall.

Still, it's a good looking hat outside if not in.

 

[Boodles]

Can you tell us more about the sweatband?

Mr Bowers,
Please tell us more about how you did the replacement sweatband or perhaps you have done so already but elsewhere? That is a nice piece of work. I have passed up more than one nice boater because of a loose sweatband.
No shop, I am aware of, seems interested in repairing the sweatband in a boater.

Here's my latest Boater. I wanted something to wear instead of my really nice '30s Dobbs, so I picked this up for a song. It's a 7 3/8 LO, my exact size, though slightly large, as most Hat Corporation hats seem to be on me. It's slightly large enough that I can't wear it in the wind.

The eBay auction showed that the sweatband was completely loose from the hat, so much so that it didn't end up shipping with the hat! I've not heard back from the seller on that yet.

I only wanted the original sweatband for reference, in case there are any tags on it. I was going to put a new sweatband in, as I've already done.

The hat needed cleaning, but it was mostly caked-on dust. I was afraid it was mold, but that turned out to not be the case. A soft-bristled toothbrush and a little bit of water did the trick, though you have to be careful with the water, as the gelatin used to stiffen the hat is water soluble. I didn't want to try any solvent other than water, because you never know how it might react to the threads that stitched the hat together.

A naphtha bath on the removable hat band did little to alleviate the stains on it, as seems to be the case on many Cavanagh hatbands I've tried to clean. There are a few holes around the band, but I don't think anybody's going to care other than me. So many people get a kick out of seeing me wear my Boater that they'll never notice the flaws.

As for age, the hat is no older than the '50s. There are no labels inside the hat other than the cloth size label glued inside the crown, but that's consistent with my '30s Dobbs. The straw on this Cavanagh is thicker than my Dobbs, and the stitches are not concealed as on the older hat. I've compared the two hats, but I can't tell if this Cavanagh was made in Italy or in Norwalk. I was hoping the sweatband would give a clue, as the later Hat Corp. straws ususally have "Made in Italy" stamped on the sweat.

My '30s Dobbs has a nice reverse taper all the way around the crown, but they were made on five-piece blocks back then to give them that taper. This one has no taper, and so doesn't look as sharp. The construction quality isn't as nice as the '30s Dobbs, either, but that's to be expected, as Boaters weren't necessarily a big seller by the '50s. They did experience a bit of a revival around the time of the '59 Derby Revival, as Hat Corporation of America pushed them in marketing. Perhaps this hat dates from then.

Still, for a cheap, wearable Boater that I don't mind beating around in, it will work just fine.

Brad

 

[Brad Bowers]

Sure thing. Here's how I did it:

Stitch Awl Tutorial

The one big difference is in the basting stitch. I didn't want visible holes through the straw, so I ended up using a whip stitch. Insert the needle through one of the existing stitch holes in the reed tape, with the needle going in at an angle that's almost parallel to the brim. The needle should go through the straw with the needle coming out from under the first braid, so you don't get visible holes. If this sounds confusing, I'll try to post a photo later today.

It's not as tight of a baste as in the tutorial, but it seemed a fair compromise. You just have to be more accurate when you're using the awl, pulling down tight on the leather.

Brad

 

[Boodles]

Nice piece of work, Mr. Bowers.

Perhaps I should pick up a beater boater and give it a go to build some skil.

Thanks for taking time to show us what you did. I'll keep looking in case you do post a photo.

Sure thing. Here's how I did it:

Stitch Awl Tutorial

The one big difference is in the basting stitch. I didn't want visible holes through the straw, so I ended up using a whip stitch. Insert the needle through one of the existing stitch holes in the reed tape, with the needle going in at an angle that's almost parallel to the brim. The needle should go through the straw with the needle coming out from under the first braid, so you don't get visible holes. If this sounds confusing, I'll try to post a photo later today.

It's not as tight of a baste as in the tutorial, but it seemed a fair compromise. You just have to be more accurate when you're using the awl, pulling down tight on the leather.

Brad

 

[David Conwill]

I went to the [political party withheld] State Convention here in Michigan last month, and saw but one boater. I myself wore a panama, but I think a boater will be in order for future events.

-Dave

 

[Al Niente]

When do we have to "officially" put them away?