Better fit

[Matt Deckard]

i think that was me, so thank you for the demonstration. though i hate to say it, the difference is not that great. yes, i can see the difference but i wanted to see the collar of the new jacket coming AT LEAST to your earlobes. i've heard talk of jackets 'touching the back of my head' and all kinds of horror.
but thank you.

incidently the first jacket looks good on you and is a better fit than the vintage.

(anyway...it's all about the trouser cuff circumference)

The difference is in the feel... very constricting. You'll notice when you have to take the modern jacket off to drive a car.

(anyway...it's all about the trouser cuff circumference)

That is a very good topic as well.

They can make a man look like he has big fat legs if they are too wide or too narrow. I am more focussed on how the trowsers drop from ones rear to the heel.

More pics needed

 

[Wild Root]

incidently the first jacket looks good on you and is a better fit than the vintage.

(anyway...it's all about the trouser cuff circumference)

That's because it's my vintage coat. Fits me great see,

I also agree that the trouser cuff circumference is vitally important! Hate tapered pant legs!

 

[herringbonekid]

i had a feeling you'd come to your jacket's defence. but no need, i could see it was a nice jacket and it looks great on you.

yeah, tapered trousers always feel so...mean. let's have a couple more inches of cloth for pete's sake !

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I like a very slight taper. For some reason, perfectly straight trouser legs end up looking bell-bottomy below the knee. It just doesn't look good on me.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I have no preference for trouser cuffs. I like 'em all ways except bell bottom. I'm with Matt on the importance of the drop from rear to heel. Trim but not constricting = perfection.

bk

 

[Wild Root]

i could see it was a nice jacket and it looks great on you.

Well, thank you very much Herringbonekid! But the correct word is not "was" no, no, that's pest-tenses, the correct word being "IS". Seeing it "IS" still a nice coat.

Never the less, my clothes look better on the owner then the borrower.

Marc, I know what you mean about the "bellbottomed" look of straight pants. I have a few that have that look and they're from the early 30's. I lay them on the floor to see the cut and well, they do have a very slight bell cut to them. Now the pants that are to that German suit I have are straight! I mean, not a taper at all! They are very straightly cut and hang like a million! I would love to have all my pants drape like them! Nice 23" hem and straight cut with inverse pleats, *sigh* that's the good stuff right there!

=WR=

 

[Marty M.]

Wild Root,
Great Look sir. I like how you understated your accessories. It really allows us to see that great sport coat. The maker of the coat did a wonderful job mathching the windowpane from the patch pockets onto the coat body. Any idea who originally made the coat? Again, thanks for sharing.

Marty

 

[EL COLORADO]

Yeah,..those pants hang great, Wild.
I too have a bunch of 30s/40s pants that flare slightly at the bottom.
Only problem i have with em is the bottoms wind up swishing from side to side when im walkin. Not too fond of that look. : )
I notice those pants youre wearing dont have any break.
I prefer my pants to be long enough so they break just gently over the shoe.
Helps to accentuate that drape look and while it frames the shoes.


EC

 

[Wild Root]

I prefer my pants to be long enough so they break just gently over the shoe.
Helps to accentuate that drape look and while it frames the shoes.
EC

Yeah, I wish I had the luxury. I have a hard time to find pants from any period to be long enough. I don't mind wearing them a little short some times because I've seen many movies with men who wear their pants a little short. Mostly swing dancers did because it gave them freedom of movement on the floor with out worrying about the cuffs getting in the way.

You don't like the baggy sway motion of some of your pants? Send them on over brother! I'd be happy as most may be to relieve you of them.

=WR=

 

[EL COLORADO]

You don't like the baggy sway motion of some of your pants? Send them on over brother! I'd be happy as most may be to relieve you of them.

=WR=

Heh, heh.
Youre my kinda Joe, Wild.
HUNGRY for vintage.



EC

 

[Wild Root]

Yes, hungry is the word! A hunger that is never satisfied.

=WR=

 

[Mr. Rover]

Waistcoat collar sitting funny

I'm having some problems with the fit on my waistcoat.

Take a look:
Looking allright:

But the waistcoat is covering up the collar:

To show how much of the collar is being covered up by the vest:

ray

 

[Mr. Rover]

The collar sits way high, too. If it wasn't for the collar of this shirt being so high, this vest would be scratching the top of my neck.
See if you can make out the numbers. It looks to me like it's covering up almost 3/4 of an inch of collar (the ruller is touching the bottom of my collar)

Can a tailor remedy this?

Ray

 

[Ed]

It can be fixed

Ray,

A good tailor can definitely remedy this.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I thought that's what it was supposed to look like ...

bk

 

[nightandthecity]

Yeah, I wish I had the luxury. I have a hard time to find pants from any period to be long enough.

=WR=

yeah , that's the downside of always wearing vintage. Its rare you find anything that is a perfect fit. You have to make these little compromises all the time. Oh for a time machine and a large private income.

 

[Wild Root]

But remember...

If you had a time machine, and a nice stash of cash, you'd have to have vintage cash! Funny, some times I'll find pants that are too long for even me!!! Happens some times but, I always seem to walk home with them any way.

Ray:

Your vest and collar problem is interesting. Your collar seems to be a little on the lose side. You may want to find some shirts that fit a little closer to your neck. I wear a 16" and some times I can even wear a 15 1/2! I don't mind having a snug collar because it keeps everything neat and tightly. A vest in my mind is supposed to ride a little over the collar, that's how I've seen it but, in your photos, it seems to overlap quite a bit! My suggestion would be to maybe move the button on your shirt in to make it fit a little better and maybe that will draw the collars in and make them stand a little more then run and hide under the vest

=WR=

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Dunno what shirt size Ghost wears, but let me tell you, finding size 14 collars ain't easy. The smallest standard size is 14.5. A few companies make them smaller, but they're bloody expensive.

Custom made is the way to go for a small neck.

bk

 

[Wild Root]

He'd have no problem fitting into most vintage shirts I see! Maybe he should try kid's sizes.

=WR=

 

[Mr. Rover]

I wear a 14.5 collar. That shirt was custom made. I just haven't worn it enough to have the collar shrink to a proper fit.
The sleeves are still a little long too. I've found that with any Taiwanese garments, it needs to be big to shrink to a proper fit within a few weeks.

ray